lilyoyo1
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Posts posted by lilyoyo1
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Network resources can also be used if he goes the program route. Then the only color used would be what is chosen
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On 8/6/2025 at 8:22 AM, Chevelle said:
I have a "Bedtime" program that sets several Hue lights to a dark blue. After a set wait time, they are turned off. When other programs are run, they reset the hue lights to the color/temperature that I want. However, if I want to turn on any of those lights before a program is run, the color will still be that dark blue.
The obvious solution is to add lines that reset the color/temperature to the default value that I want. The problem is that any time the color/temperature is changed, the lights turn on. I don't what the lights that are in the bedroom that are already off, to flash white during the color change.
There was just one post on this subject back in 2020 with no response. Doing a search came up with that it can be done if the HSV (HSB) values are changed. This supposedly can be done without changing the state of the light. Unfortunately, that did not work.
The best I could do was to change the brightness to 1 and then change the color. Doable but in a dark room, still noticeable.
So the question is, how can the color/temperature of a Hue light be changed and have the light remain off?
Since you're using programs for everything else, why cant you use a program for when you physically trigger the light switch to turn on? Then you can have it turn on to the color temp that you desire.
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14 hours ago, srjacob said:
I did follow the instructions
I am NOT migrating Zwave, just Insteon. Therefore, the instructions don't indicate that I have to shut down the 994. Having both the eisy and the 994 up at the same time allows me to migrate the programs that use the Elk module to the Elk plugin. I have about 30 programs that use the Elk because the Elks controls an electronic gate.
Are you sure? Part of the instructions says for you to plug your PLM into your eisy. With you leaving the plm on the isy, the EISY cannot read your insteon network.
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1 hour ago, srjacob said:
I recently migrated to eisyfrom ISY994.
When I migrated my 994 to an eisy, I did a backup on the 994, and loaded that into the eisy (as per the instructions). Unfortunately, the scenes got messed up. I have attached a screenshot from the 994 and the migrated eisy scene. Same scene. What is going on with the migration?
I should note that the PLM that is on the 994 has NOT moved. I don't want my Insteon scenes to be messed up and I still have to convert the programs that use the old Elk module to the new Elk plugin.
The PLM isnt attached to the EISY to update anything.
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On 7/16/2025 at 7:42 PM, HTTRC said:
Coming from an ISY994i perspective, what am I gaining by moving to eisy?
Please don’t give the marketing pitch. Speed, performance,chipset, HDMI port, etc. The hardware platform doesn’t interest me whatsoever compared to the software. What is my experience going to be like?
I’m only interested in maintaining my Insteon devices. Not interested in Zwave, Zigbee, Matter, Thread, or any other dongle tech. At least not eisy approach. I’m all about managing my Insteon network. Adding, removing, linking devices creating scenes etc.
Is eisy running a Java app built from what the ISY used? Is it the same look and feel as the Java app? If there was a delay in showing a menu when doing a “right click” in the ISY gui, will that also be in eisy gui? If one were critical of the ISY gui, will they be likely to be critical of the eisy?
Can you easily replace Insteon dimmer switches? Do you have to remove an item from it’s folder before you can issue the replace command?
i no longer use UDI and insteon due to me switching to Control 4 and Ra3. I wouldnt sleep on the marketing. The increased speed from when I used insteon, zwave, and hue with Polisy was noticeable (programs). That alone made the change worthwhile. Had EISY supported Ra3, I would've used that instead of C4. Additional note for those that may read this: EISY does support RA3 dimmers, switches, via caseta node server.
Insteon I3 devices are worth switching to if starting fresh with insteon. If Ra3 never came out, I would've been using those. They are much higher quality when it comes to look and feel compared to the old ones. I wouldn't rip out my system to use them though.
With that said, since the speed difference and other technologies are irrelevant to you, I don't see any reason for you to swap from one to the other. I know they've started on a new web based interface but I think that's only for beta testers right now.
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3 hours ago, alixer said:
That was basically my conclusion as well but surely there must be a way to force the scene to be written to the ISY right? I don't mind if I have to touch every scene. I just don't want to have to touch every device in every scene. Even add/removing a device from a scene does not "fix" it. The only thing I have found is changing a parameter on every single device in the scene.
I'd start from the begining to ensure each step was followed correctly.
Unplug Plm and isy. Note Plm Insteon address. Plug Plm in while holding the set button to factory reset. Once beeping stops, let go. Wait 30 seconds and plug isy into power. Verify new pom is showing in isy. Once done, go to file>restore plm>restore devices.
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3 hours ago, rchorowitz said:
All,
It seems the 'set hue scene' option when creating eisy scenes works now. However, I am unable the save the selected built-in Hue scene to the scene created in eisy IoX v5.9.1.
The 'set hue scene' defaults to the last (Hue) built-in scene selected for any eisy scene. I am unable to save the the selected (Hue built-in scene) to the eisy scene created.
The goal would be to have a single keypad in a room have each button activate specific Hue scenes (Concentrate, Read, Nighttime, etc).
Thanks,
Rob
When I used my polisy, I did this using network resources.
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I don't this is Plm issue since this only happens with the same set of devices. Besides that, Insteon links are stored on the devices themselves so a bad Plm wouldn't affect local operation of the devices. I agree with Guy that a switch is probably going bad. I'd start with the controlled switch when you start your tests
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On 3/26/2025 at 12:27 AM, steve-elves said:
Thanks for the reply! Our home isn't very large; we have under-floor electric heat in most rooms. Those rooms are individually controlled by NuHeat WiFi thermostats, which all communicate correctly with the EISY. On the other hand, the Z-Wave thermostats are indeed somewhat spread out: my EISY is in the basement, and there are 2 Z-Wave thermostats controlling baseboard heaters on that level (but in different rooms). There is one Z-Wave t-stat on the main level, but in a back room at the far corner of the house, and there is a final unit on the second floor in an office. Since we have electric in-floor heat, there is a sort of "grid" of wires spaced about 6" apart, buried in about 1.5" of concrete in most of the floors on the main and upper levels. It has occurred to me that these buried wires may create a subtle "Faraday Cage" effect that is potentially intermittent. When they are cycled "ON" by their NuHeat t-stats they carry 120 VAC current, and who knows what effect that may have on the propagation of Z-Wave radio signals.
It's primarily the Z-Wave thermostats that fail to respond most often, and these for sure are older units that may not have the best radio receivers. I also have three light switches, newer Lutron units that should be pretty good but very occasionally fail to respond to commands as well. The water heater Z-Wave relay is also located in the basement, but at the other end of the structure from the EISY. Not physically that far, but there's a fair amount of stuff in between.
On reflection, I suppose that the Z-Wave "mesh" is spread pretty thin in my house, and the Network Heal command may not have much to work with; there might not be many alternative pathways for commands. I'll see how the new repeaters work, and maybe they will be enough to fix the problem.
Thanks again for your input.
Are you sure that your switches are Lutron? Lutron doesn't make zwave switches. If they are indeed Lutron, they wouldn't be part of your zwave mesh which would explain some things.
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6 hours ago, steve-elves said:
Thanks, Guy! I should have been clearer in my explanation. I have about 6 WiFi thermostats (NuHeat brand) plus 4 Z-Wave ones. The WiFi thermostats are updated properly - it's only my Z-Wave thermostats, load switches, and lights that are intermittently functional. I like your idea for using variables to check the operation of individual program commands.
With 10 thermostats, I assume you have a fairly large home. Are your zwave devices grouped together or spread out? Is your eisy centrally located or on one end trying to communicate to another?
Are your issues with every zwave device or specific ones? If it's specific, that's an easier fix. While adding repeaters can work, you want to do it strategically to get the most out of them.
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16 minutes ago, willclarke said:
Thanks @lilyoyo1. Yesterday you said the eisy could support two zwave networks. How would I accomplish this, what hardware would i need? I have one LAN network for the house and garage. Can I use an ethernet USB hub and zwave doggle in the garage, would the eisy recognize it?
I was saying you can have separate 2 networks in a home. My apologies for not clarifying that you would need 2 separate controllers for that.
Even if it were possible with a single controller, range would still be an issue.
Technically you can have 2 eisys talk to each other using variables and network resources but that's not something I've ever entertained due to the added complexity of the system. There are some on here who have done so but I can't say what steps they took or the end results long term.
13 minutes ago, Techman said:Being that the 800 series repeaters/amplifiers have more power and bandwidth they should be able to communicate with each other taking advantage of those attributes.
The problem is repeaters repeat the signal that is being sent. If it receives a 300 series signal the 300 series devices wouldn't be able to translate an 800 series message.
This has been like this since the beginning of zwave. There are plenty of articles online on how zwave mesh works to confirm this.
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15 hours ago, willclarke said:
Thank you! If these work, that’s an easy solution.
This may not work depending on what series devices that you have. The signal that it repeats will still be the same signal sent from your controller. If you have 500 series devices, your eisy will send out the signal using 500 series protocol/range. The range will be determined by 500 series max range... Ditto for 700 series (Eisy does not support zwave LR)
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I have newer locks so I can't say how older locks would behave. I suspect you would need to exclude and include again though with it being older zwave protocol
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You can add long as you build it a strong mesh in order for everything to work properly. The networks will not repeat signals to each other
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21 hours ago, JohnC said:
That's a great idea, and a less expensive option than what I was thinking.
Good reviews for the product on Amazon with one of the few critical comments saying:
"Great product but can get directly from Zooz for 10 dollars cheaper."
Thank you
Still it would be good to post somewhere the power consumption of this Zmatter dongle.
I would like to leave this post open until there is an answer to that question.
If you're looking for an answer, emailing UDI directly through their support channels is the best way to get it.
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7 hours ago, CoolToys said:
while going through other issues I swapped an old Powerline switch for a new custom engraved i3 four button. As a standalone the four button works fine. I have an 8 button keypad in the dining room with a "patio" key button. It is and has been the controller for the "patio" scene which turns on the main load on the new i3 and four other switches and an outdoor switched outlet. I also wanted the 3rd button to do the same thing. In the past I set them both to "controller". My understanding is this makes them both "controller/responders". so turning one on turn on the scene and the other switch.
When only the Patio button the 8 button keypad is the controller, the scene works. When Only the Patio (3rd) button on the i3 4 button is the controller the scene works. When they are both set, neither work. One turns on two lights of the scene, the other turns on three. Neither turns on the outlet.
Any thoughts? Is this not possible and I am approaching dual controller idea wrong? Do I need two identical scenes where the i3 is the controller for one and a responder in the other and reverse for the the second scene?If both controllers are individually configured the same way, they should work with a single scene.
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Do you actually use different light levels when you dim or tend to stick to the same settings (IE: dim to 30% each time). If its the latter, you could use the fade command to trigger your program to set the light at that level. Outside of that, you would need to use programs and set the bulb based on the insteon range which will be a poor experience
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1 hour ago, bpwwer said:
So there's no misunderstandings, UDI wanted to add support for RA3, but Lutron would not provide the protocol specification. The support that exists today is based on the work someone did to reverse engineer the protocol.
I remember when they were trying and it wasn't a knock against them. I love UDI and their products. You did an excellent job with getting their switches supported for the community which is an excellent thing. I was just letting the poster know that there is no perfect situation out there definitely none better than eisy/Insteon
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14 hours ago, junkycosmos said:
Also long time user here, just trying to count, ummm 16yrs here. Started with ISY99 .. Here this will date me .. ONE OF THE FIRST users to have the ALL ON events after moving to the ISY994 and battery powered devices. RIGHT not UDI's fault on the ALL ONs .. just same as the bad SD cards (use of fake SD cards permitted the market and killed many products) .. but I would put it this way. When someone steps out into a busy street - do you try to avoid them if you can or do you just say 'oh not my fault' and mow them down. Right, even if you are one of those guys you probably chicken out last minute and do the right thing. So to Michel's credit UDI did a crap ton to hold up Insteon over the years. I am not in the position to say if more could have been done on the topics of: ALL ON, random link losses, PLM deaths due to overheated capacitors, poorly implemented firmware options in devices. Enter Zwave - huge credit on to UDI for jumping in - a solid jump in, how many different Zwave boards did they do? Ok now ISY hardware often struggling on larger setups but super reliable - yank the power and you can always expect your ISY to restart (ok if your power supply hasn't overheated, your SD card isnt fake) .. and, as a user with 300+ devices, 15 minutes for startup and query all but you could count on it. Honestly that is the amazing ISY brand rock - solid. Only thing I have ever seen better are some elevator control boards from the 90s running in their isolated environments.
Now enter EISY - during a market time of a very useable Home Assistant community device - dropping prices of the extreme commercial systems (have you seen the Lutron Caseta system) or even drop in price of the RA2 pro stuff. Oh yeah then let's mention Alexa of the casual user requiring nearly no "hobby support time" / Insteon goes bankrupt with a nice community support pickup but long overdue. Again, I am outside here, with have a ton of respect for the Gang at UDI, all of whom I would give a large hug but their world they are operating in has changed a ton / ummm the world us users are asked to navigate which @Toddimus opening post had me think of. I bought a EISY with wellness to send the $400 just on principle to support UDI - but my efforts to test it out over the last year have been sadly challenging. First issue was after pulling power from it when moving it around my network cabinet - completely corrupted free BSD and EISY needed to be shipped into UDI - but noted that was only after Michel spent 3 hours on a Sunday night remotely connected to it attempting to fix .. dang! However that doesn't make up for the loss in reliability hit - when designing EISY (or in testing) was a requirement missed -users will yank power - device needs to live through random power outages...
Curious where others land on this too. I get the ISY994 is outdated hardware wise .. sad but true - although some of your favorite elevators are probably running firmware from 1999 on them still today ..
I no longer use UDI equipment so I am limited in what I can say about them. From my ISY-Polisy days, I have zero negative things to say. The only reason I switched, was due to me using Radio Ra3 instead of insteon. At the time, UDI equipment did not support Ra3. Even now, it does not support Ra3 Keypads so I couldnt go back if I wanted to. Had EISY offered RA3 support before I invested in Control 4, I never would have stopped using it.
14 hours ago, junkycosmos said:12x other locations with ISY994s in them - some with 2-3 devices or simple setups like monitor for flood / control a light or lack of motion etc. Kinda spendy to buy a bunch of EISYs .. but honestly would IF the readability was close to ISY ... without needing ongoing hobby support
if its not broke, dont fix it....Why swap out a perfectly good and working system for something new if you're using it for basic needs? Its not like the 994 suddenly stopped working because of the EISY.
14 hours ago, junkycosmos said:1x isy994 with 300+ devices = willing to dump all off the Insteon devices for something like Lutron casita OR keep and do EISY
With 300 insteon devices- you're kinda stuck with what you have. No other system (DIY) can support that many devices. Caseta tops out at 75 devices. Unless you plan on having multiple logins and hubs, thats a non starter...Even if willing; you've added unnecessary complexity to your system...especially since they do not have keypad support. Zwave! Zwave is a non starter for me for many reasons. Some like it but after using Insteon/Ra3, there is zero chance of me ever using it.For a basic system, the Lutron DIY/prosumer stuff works really well. If all I wanted was Alexa control over a few devices i'd be willing to use them to a certain degree. For customization, you will need to add another layer of control to really get the most out of them. Lutron's Prosumer stuff (ra2/3) were really designed to be used with other control systems. That's partly why they are so basic when used by themselves but so easily integrate with other select systems.The same people who want standalone systems controlled by Alexa are not looking to use EISY and home assistant. For the most part, those same people aren't looking at RA2 (while cheaper is still the most expensive option you mentioned)-
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6 hours ago, paulbates said:
YW.
A follow up FWIW; like the i3 security and signal improvements, nowhere have I found or seen referenced exactly how an i3 device FW is upgraded in place. Unlike matter, Insteon devices are not internet devices, no IP stack... so how is it accomplished?The original I3 hub was able to update the device. Whether that can happen from EISY (now or in the future) I dont know.
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The look and feel of I3 devices over older Insteon devices are much more improved. They are night and day in regards to quality, fit, and finish. If I were to ever go back to Insteon, it would only be to use i3 devices. Plus they have updatable so l firmware so they can be improved over time unlike older devices
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1 hour ago, mmb said:
I shared a while back as several others asked as well.
Maybe you could do a step by step write up for those who may still question where to find the information needed and where to put it in regards to the eisy/Unifi
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14 hours ago, BRMeeke said:
We have already added 26 keypads and I was told that they have 60-70 devices total. So I need to discover another 40 devices and most of them are buried in the walls behind the various wall sconces, etc.
Do they not have a backup that you can restore from their old ISY to the new? That would be your easiest option. Since you've already added the kpls, it may already be too late to find old devices. I would ask them if they have a backup so you could use that instead.
If there is no backup you can turn on each kpl and see what devices also turns on (potentially off). Once added to the system via your laptop/desktop computer using the admin console, you could then control each of the devices to match the IDs to. Its going to be one heck of a time setting everything up the way you will have to. Outside of what's mentioned, you'll have to open stuff up. Most likely the devices aren't actually buried in the walls. You will however, need to check behind fixtures and so forth.
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While insteon devices have codes that show up in the system, it would take the same amount of work to figure out what devices are which just like zwave if you do not rename them while adding. Yes, you can walk around and check devices to find the number, but that's highly inefficient at best if you have a large number of devices to look through.
The best way to figure anything out would be to to on each device one at a time to see what device turns on in the console. Once you figure that out, rename your switch. I always left the number in front of my zwave devices with the name I wanted to go by.
Personally, I would factory reset everything and start with a clean slate. If you want to go the deletion route, start with the devices that are farthest away and choose remove device. Then move closer to your controller. This method assumes that your devices are newer devices that support network wide inclusion/exclusion
Changing Hue color/temperature with the light off.
in IoX Program Support
Posted
I'm assuming that you're telling the lights to turn "on" in those situations. Why not make an "on" program and set that to the color temp you want?