lilyoyo1

Firmware and UI of your Isy

Firmware and UI

The problem with telling someone with limited electrical wiring how to work around code is that they can end up digging themselves into a bigger hole making things more costly to fix and dangerous.

You definitely need to be there

Except with me!!! lol

boo. I thought you'd argue with me. lol

If it aint broke why fix it? You're trying to have him run around for something that isnt an issue so far (though it helps with troubleshooting for potential issues in the future). From my experience Warm Glow bulbs do not present any adverse reaction to insteon devices. Not saying it cant happen long term should the bulbs (or devices) last 5+ years.

I am aware that the white wire can be used as a traveler as long as it is ID'd as such. However, on an online forum, I can only go off the information presented to us. After some years in this field, one thing i've learned is not to assume how something is done...especially when it comes to a persons safety. I wouldnt assume a traveler based on the information provided. If both switches are disconnected, a traveler shouldnt have 110 going to it for you to pick up which tells me it is being used for power which goes against code (was legal at one point but not anymore).

I would recommend getting an electrician to verify your wiring as your diagram and what you state do not add up. If your diagram is correct, you need one anyway as you shouldnt have 110 on the neutral

You're definitely more knowledgeable than you give yourself credit for

I'm not a developer but i did stay at a Holiday Inn Express when I was much younger! Does that count?

I doubt that would be much of a problem. In dense urban areas such as large city apartment buildings, many people use these types of things successfully without issue. The chances of issues are greatly reduced if adjustments are made during non service hours. If they are adjusting during service hours, the small chance of communication issues arising is probably preferable to having to flick a switch multiple times until someone gets to the correct setting they may want with a Church full of people......Heaven forbid they miss it and have to start over

The hue would be more expensive than Cree since you can get a 6 pack for 75 bucks. Depending on setup, hue could work since you would be offloading the traffic to the hub itself. Being that its a church, the impact may be minimal to your router since the bulbs wouldnt necessarily be communicating that much. There are other things to look at such as range when it comes to using hue. Range comes into play depending on where your devices are located. You would also need 2 bridges since you have more than 50 bulbs. Then again, wifi bulbs performance depends on the strength of your church's network. I would definitely reserve the IP addresses of all wifi bulbs if you went that route. With hue its not as important and the inconvenience of 2 bridges is minimized due to everything being able to operate on its own.

All of them pretty much carry the same style. You can go with something higher cost (such as hue) depending on setup. There are also cheaper options such as this and this one by Cree.

Have you thought about smart bulbs? While the initial expense may be higher, you would be able to achieve what you want in regards to dimming and color temperature. Smartbulbs would allow you to create scenes that automatically changes the color temp for the day and time the way you would like it to be. You can even set them to turn themselves off should someone not turn them off at the switch. If you have an ISY on site, this can be controlled via that or whatever bulbs you choose app

I use the same ones too

Great- Kickin Crab it is. ?

When you're talking about 8 bulbs its going to be much brighter than you anticipate....especially with LEDs. as a test, Id unscrew 6 to see how bright they are as that will let you know if you have unrealistic expectations for what you are trying to achieve. Its the same thing in my bathroom. The recessed lights in the general bath area are the exact same as the 1 over the shower. The bathroom (shower area) is much darker dimming the shower light down vs the same level I can achieve when dimming the other lights. I can swap out every other bulb with the shower and get the same results

LEDs are not incandescent bulbs. The mechanisms they use to work is completely different which is why you have different results. Incandcents use a filament which warms up which is why you have more control over how low they go when turn on and off. Led bulbs are electronically driven. They require a certain amount of energy to power them on which is why they have a hard time turning on at extremely low settings. Electronically controlled bulbs such as lifx and hue can turn on lower than standard LEDs due to how they work but even then, the output is not nearly as good as it is with incandescent bulbs. I have found, when the isy is the one turning on the light, I can have them turn on lower than i can do when holding the switch on. With that said, that's not a problem for me since I use presets and the Isy when turning on the lights vs physically pressing and holding a switch

I've done over 100 homes with insteon and warm glow bulbs and haven't had a single experience that you've had. While electronic dimmable bulbs can go lower and turn on lower than standard LEDs, most of the light is unusable below a certain point anyway. In fact, I've attached a few photos to show how low it can go with zero flickering. The brightest photo attached is @ 12%. At 1% you can barely tell that it's on.

Works for me. I think me and @Tekenwould subconsciously take those spots anyway. ?

??? You have to take the whole statement into context not just a single line

No one can lay anything out for you which is why these debates go on forever like they do. There are so many different products and protocols that there's something for everyone. It's best for you to look at the pros and cons of all systems, and see what works best for you and what you're trying to do as everyone's situation is different. It's like asking someone what's the best car to buy. A Ford person will say ford while a Chevy person will say Chevy. For me, my next system is shaping up to be Control 4. However, not many people can pay (or want to pay) what C4 costs. The other downside is that it requires a dealer to install and maintain (there's some things a user can do themselves). If you were to ask me what's next, I'd say C4, which probably doesn't fit what you want to accomplish.

Did you look on smarthome.com where they are sold? They are showing that all of their switches are in stock and have for at least the past month

You'd buy polisy. It can be found on Universal devices webpage in the store