
bdlhome
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Are there any problems with Google Home to Portal connections?
bdlhome replied to bdlhome's topic in Google Home
UUID sent via email as requested. Thanks, Brian -
Are there any problems with Google Home to Portal connections?
bdlhome replied to bdlhome's topic in Google Home
So any ideas why google home control of ISY isn't working anymore? I'm assuming it is just me because I don't see anyone else with the same problem. I get "Sorry Power Controls are currently not supported" messages. -
Are there any problems with Google Home to Portal connections?
bdlhome replied to bdlhome's topic in Google Home
Hi Michel, yes the ISY is online on the portal and Amazo Echo is working fine which I'm assuming wouldn't work if the ISY was offline? -
Are there any problems with Google Home to Portal connections?
bdlhome posted a topic in Google Home
My google home does not seem to be working. I've tried rebooting everything and still the same. I also deleted and re-added the portal/ISY in the Google home app. The responses seem to vary but a couple I captured are: "Sorry I don't understand" "Sorry Power Controls are currently not supported" Just to help with any diagnosis, the Amazon Echo is working as normal. Anybody else having problems? -
Great news and keep up the great work
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Michel, anything we can do to lobby Amazon?
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Thanks Michel, that is good news and hopefully it will be certified soon. I know there are some workarounds, but I've been holding out for more direct communication.
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I was wondering the same thing, if it can talk to the insteon hub then hopefully it can be made to talk directly to the ISY?
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I saw a message today from Amazon saying that Wink is now supported, does that help us in any way?
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I did the same recently and basically backup the 99 and restore to 994. If you have any optional modules, once you have the unit, you send the UUID for your 99 as well as 994 to support to get them migrated across.
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Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, I really appreciate the input.
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I've had two PROLIPHIX thermostats for several years. They work well, but not integrated with everything else, which bugs me. Then next driver for wanting to replace them is they have their own monitoring solution which is becoming a paid service at the end of June. If I'm going to replace them with Insteon or Z-wave what would you recommend? A bit about my setup. ISY994i Pro IR Lots of Insteon devices covering the majority of the house ELK Alarm with ELK module for ISY Network Module for ISY MobiLinc user with Camera and ELK add-ins Recently ordered Z-wave module and Z-wave locks (Schlage BE469NXCAM605) For those that are not familiar with the Proliphix thermostats they are wired PoE devices, so I have Ethernet and the thermostat control wires plumbed in to both thermostat locations. Thanks, Brian
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Thinking about using an alarm with bed shaker output connected to IOLinc http://www.smarthome.com/5234/WakeMEup-Alarm-Clock-and-Bed-Shaker/p.aspx
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Some good ideas fitzpatri8. When I was single I did some similar things and HAL brings back memories because I also named my home automation system HAL back then, mainly because I used the voice from 2001 A Space Odyssey. http://www.bdlhome.com/n-hal.html The setting by phone or button presses is an interesting idea because I could use the Nabaztag ("Internet Rabbit") (of which I have a couple) to give audio feedback. Maybe I could even indicate the time with the ears! http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=2705 Anyone else using an existing alarm clock modified or otherwise? I think I could probably just take one apart and connect to an IOLinc.
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I wondered what others were doing to solve the following problem or challenge. I want to integrate alarm clock based functions, like turning the kettle on when the alarm clock goes off. The problem is I don't really want to change the way an alarm is set and used (meaning I still want something resembling an alarm clock vs a program in the ISY) My reasons are: 1) It is always good to have a failsafe, I can live without the kettle switching on in the case of a power failure, but don't want to miss my train. 2) When in bed I don't want to have to turn on an laptop or iPad/iPhone just to change the alarm time 3) The family is used to setting the alarm clocks and it works so why change it Solutions I have either seen or thought of are: 1) Modifying an existing alarm clock to connect to an IOLinc 2) attaching a Synchrolinc to the alarm clock. Any other ideas? What have others done?
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Anyone know what wireless solution it is using and if it will interfere in anyway with Insteon? It says in the blurb that the wireless senders act as repeaters and that sounded like it might be using something like X10/insteon. I don't want to get the wireless whole house system only to find it interferes with Insteon. Another thought that got me thinking was why don't smarthome sell the wireless kits when they sell all the others.
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Nothing like answering ones own questions, but no sooner did I post the question did I get it working. I think the unit had become confused and the test button on the ISY wasn't always working. Anyway, for anyone else reading in the future: Protocol: TCP Port: 4998 Mode: C Escaped (as mentioned in the Wiki) Body: append "\r\n" to the command (as also mentioned in the Wiki) -Brian
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Any tips on the network module to save me lots of trial and error efforts? The iTach unit arrived today and yes it has a built-in IR receiver/learner and I had success learning and testing codes with the GC software. I've not been so successful with the network module. The only clue from the Wiki was around port numbers (which I think may be different by 1 or so on the iTach unit) and a comments about: Please use "C Escaped" mode when creating Network Resources on the ISY for control of relays and IR, and append all commands with "\r\n" What protocol do I use? Based on the "C Escaped" comment I assuming it has to be TCP, UDP or Multicast and I tried TCP first but no joy. I'm also assuming I just add \r\n to the command that paste in to the body field. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
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Ah yes, CCF format, that brings back memories from when I had Pronto remote. -Brian
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Hi Michel, Do you have any more details regarding the tests you did with the Global Cache GC-100-12? I have one of the newer GC WF2IR units (http://www.smarthome.com/81186/Global-Cache-WF2IR-iTach-Wi-Fi-to-IR/p.aspx) on order and would like to test with the network resources module. I see there is some information available on the Wiki http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Networking:Network_Resources#Global_Cache_GC-100 but was hoping there was some IR samples to try. It says the new iTach units are backwards compatible with GC-100 units so heres hoping... Best regards, Brian
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I mainly use them for announcing, I am playing with the RFIDs but still looking for the killer application there. I purchased when they were on sale for ~$80 and at that price they seem worth it, if only as an announcing unit. I've not seen any problem with the lag, typically it is no more than a second or two. For example when the garage door is opened the announcement happens way before the door has finished opening (normally in the first 12-18in of travel).
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I have the 2930Vn but depending on your needs that may be overkill. One of the features I wanted was fail-over support so the router has two WAN inputs. The 'V' represents VoIP and the 'n' is for 802.11n support. Comparison chart of the different models available here http://www.draytek.co.uk/products/comparison.html I think you said you also had a DSL connection, in which case the 2820n might be a good choice as it has one DSL input and one WAN input. More details of the model I have is available here http://www.draytek.com/user/PdInfoDetail.php?Id=39 One nice feature of Draytek website is they have demos of the admin console so you can take it for test-drive rather than read the manual or specs http://www.draytek.com/.upload/Demo/Vigor2930_3.2.1/ I purchased mine in the US from http://www.dsl-warehouse.com/ and had a good experience. The routers support several ways of achieving a VPN, the most common is with client software installed on the PC accessing the router and basically joining the remote network so to all intensive purposes it is on the local LAN and you can do anything that you can do on the local LAN. The SSL VPN option basically does the same but no VPN client software needs to be installed.
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If it wasn't working from an external connection then definitely something else going on. Are the cameras public or for your viewing only? The reason I ask is that I've just replaced my router with a Draytek (not that well known in the US but great routers and big in Europe). It has an SSL based VPN so I can access anything on my LAN without needing to do a lot of portforwarding and its all done through the browser. It is also great because most big companies block everything but port 80(HTTP) and 443(HTTPS) etc so I connect to my router using HTTPS and then everything is tunneled through that connection and I can access everything I need (cameras, ISY etc).