shannong

Then don't buy them from smarthome.com. I tried to purchase 3 individual items with the Black Monday flash sale. Although not mentioned, one was EXCLUDED from the sale and also out of stock. But was cheaper on Amazon and in stock. The other two were available from Amazon with less expensive prices even though they were INCLUDED in the Smarthome flash sale AND available for sooner delivery from Amazon with no extra charge (for Prime customers). And that also takes into consideration I pay sales tax with Amazon and I don't with smarthome.com. Total: Smathome: $138 Amazon: $118 (includes $9 in sales tax. Your state may not) That makes Smarthome 17% more. And I get them in two days guaranteed with Amazon. Just a tip. YMMV.

Intel has versions with m5 series processors, which are what's found in laptops. The fastest available right now is the 1.1Ghz dual core version. All the other sticks I've seen are just ATOM processors only.

Check this out. Intel released a "PC on a stick" product. Anything with an HDMI port can become a PC. They have a variety of options including an ATOM processor version running Linux for only $47! They also have USB3 ports on them to allow connections of external devices. These could be useful for those who need external data collectors, triggers, integration of other software, etc. http://www.intel.com/buy/us/en/catalog/desktop/computesticks

I can confirm the air gap tab in this switch is definitely not an air gap device. It may have been intended as one by design but is definitely not in reality. I can no longer turn these lights off via any method. I've pulled the air gap tab .out and the brightness indicator goes off. The lights stay on. It can't be an issue of not pulling it out far enough because the brightness indicator does go off, and I've pulled it very hard until it reaches the end. Chalk this up to another shoddy design by Smart Labs.

I have a Dual-Band SwitchLinc On/Off 2477S v.43, as reported by ISY. My garage fluorescent lights are attached directly as load on this switch. I began having an issue where the garage fluorescent lights wouldn't turn off with my timer program built for that. At first, I assumed it was noise since I had a pair of flickering bulbs. So I walked up to the switch and clicked it off. The brightness indicator went to the bottom showing off. They were still on. I tried switching them on/off again. They were still on. Frustrated, I pulled the air gap switch on bottom. The light on the brightness indicator went out showing power was cut. THEY WERE STILL ON! I pushed the air gap switch back in. Then turned them on/off again, and they went out this time. This has happened more than once. So the air gap switch on the bottom can't truly be an air gap switch. Any thoughts on this?

I replaced all of my canister lights with LEDs right after buying my house as many had burned out and I don't like my bulbs to not match in color/temp. Six months later I began installing my Insteon network. Almost every room in the house flickered that had those LEDs when there was Insteon traffic. Then I read here on this forum and others about some LEDs working better than others in an Insteon network. I was so disgusted at the thought of replacing close to a thousand dollars worth of bulbs I had just bought. But I couldn't live with the flicker. So I began the effort by selecting and buying one LED bulb online to give a test for color, dimming, flickering, etc before buying more. I replaced one of four canister lights in the kitchen with this bulb for the test. I liked the look and dimming. Check. Then I tested for flickering by purposely generating Insteon traffic. The bulb didn't flicker. AND NEITHER DID THE OTHER THREE! I could see the lights in the adjacent room flickering. Hmm.... So then I replaced the original bulb and moved my test bulb to the next room. Again the same behavior, all bulbs in there quit flickering and the adjacent room I had first tested was now flickering. So I bought dozen of these bulbs to place one in each rooms with these canister LED bulbs. All my flickering was gone! It seems the flickering can be eliminated by not having all bulbs on the same circuit of the same make/power/resistance/etc.. Not sure exactly why, but I've been flicker free for a year. The one exception is a set of lights in my pantry but those are three candelabra LEDs that are the same. Those lights are only on when briefly in the pantry (automatic with the door opening/closing) so it hasn't presented enough annoyance for me to do anything about it, yet. So the message here is that even if you have flickering LEDs there might be a workaround for you without replacing all your bulbs.

I'm also in the process of replacing my old appliance modules with the new dual-band ON/OFF modules. These won't exhibit the issues you're having with glowing/blinking lights when "off".

My FA Onelink connected to AC is actually powered by the same UPS as my Elk. It gives about a weeks run time for them. It makes sense now considering that the unit specific messages are not transported through the bridge to ISY. But until know, had not made that connection. This makes the other nodes beyond smoke/CO on the bridge useless since they're only for the paired device.

Strange...I don't know what happened to his reply but it was definitely helpful. So yes..... Only one unit beeps for low bat unlike smoke alerts. I'm guessing this just won't work. So far the unit paired with the bridge hasn't had a low bat to test if it works for that one. Wished that I had the old nearly dead batteries to put in and test. I have mostly wireless, one wired, and some COs as well.

Hmm... This one will be tough to troubleshoot. Thanks for your reply.

I have several wireless FirstAlert Smoke Alarms and also have the Insteon Smoke Bridge v.43. My ISY is v.4.3.1. Since owning the Smoke Bridge and smokes, I have had two with a low battery. This did not trigger the Low Bat node of my Smoke Bridge in the ISY. I even placed the offending device a few feet from the bridge as it pulsed the low battery alerts and nothing. Has the Low Bat node worked for anyone else?

Strange indeed. Packet capture is the most definitive way to divide the problem in half. Does the request even arrive to the Hub? I don't see how "cloud" comes into play. I thought the app on the phone was making a direct connection to the Hub over the internet via port forwarding on the router.

Doesn't seem totally nonsensical. I would suggest you program an "occupancy" function. Create some way to establish "home" vs "away". A variable that tracks when you're there vs when you're not. Then you could write a simple program that only runs when "away". The assumption being that when you're there you'll notice it's warm even though the system is running and you'd check on it. You could use the status of a light, a KPL button you press, status of an outlet, etc to establish "home". For me, that's that status of my security system.

How bizarre.... If I were said person, I'd run Wireshark to do a packet capture and see if the request is even making it in the router and to the Hub2. That would divide the problem in half at least. He has a 24-port switch so it's likely it has port mirroring capabilities.

I only regret a few purchases and decisions early on but not the project or endeavor. I am slightly annoyed with the reliability of the Insteon products and protocol but still believe it is the best option as the basis for an HA system. Integrating other components like security system, zone dampers, cameras, DVR, water valves, and a variety of other systems with my ISY has been a challenging effort that I've enjoyed. For me it's definitely a hobby more than a work effort . I actually enjoy the installation and tinkering with programs occasionally. As a technologist, I don't mind the necessity to troubleshoot and deal with failures or unexpected behaviors. I also have the knowledge to run wiring, install circuits, and modify the walls/floors/ceilings in my house to accommodate whatever it is I'm trying to accomplish. However, I could see that for somebody who doesn't have a technology background or basic knowledge for house electrical would find that the installation, troubleshooting, and ongoing maintenance of a full blown HA system might find it too much of a headache in the long run.

<eye roll> I'd expect 99% or more of users only have one ISY.

I'm assuming your search turned up MANY issues. Right? There are many but none of them are related to using it with the ISY specifically. Just the darn tstat itself. The main issues are using it with a gas furnace due to electrical noise on the line from the sparkers and attempting to use it with its wireless counterpart the 2441ZTH.

If Smart Labs would make the sensible and simple change to the IOLinc so that reversing the trigger also reversed the state when queried it wouldn't matter much.

The reason I use a URL to launch via a browser is to avoid the "ISY Finder" window popping up when running the "application". Is there anyway to get rid of the ISY Finder? It would be nice for it to save what it finds with an option to open with saved settings.

I agree with KeithM. Please create a sticky topic to address this to make it easier for folks to learn about this. Would certainly be more useful than the "Power Outage on ISY 26" that is currently pinned.

IOGuy wrote an integration app for it and there's a forum dedicated to it. http://forum.universal-devices.com/forum/84-venlink/

Just a bit more info about heat and electronics as an FYI for all. The wide swings in temp of the attic would probably do more to shorten the life of the electronics. That's why PCs actually last longer when left on indefinitely rather than if they are powered down each day when not in use. The thermal expansion/contraction as the device heats and cools causes micro-fissures resulting in failures.

Until now I had no real idea how many programs I have. I just checked and 450 programs, 73 State Variables, and 34 Integer Variables. I also tend to look for the most simple way to program things. However, simpler doesn't not mean fewer programs. I purposely write things in a simple form which often means not using the Else clause and thus more programs are needed. Actually, I think more complex programming would mean fewer programs as you load the If clause with more logic and utilize the Else clause more frequently. I'm probably nearing the end of the growth phase of my programs. I still need to create a Vacation function so that will add about 20 programs. When v5.0 is released, I'll probably add the irrigation system and weather functions to it but that will probably be balanced out by the removal of the massive amount of thermostat programs required due to the variable limitations of v4.x. Fun post!

For me it's worth it just for the delayed device updates when you're first setting up your network or creating new scenes. I also wanted the enhanced encryption, which is really just standard IMO. I don't appreciate it when companies charge extra just to get an ADEQUATE level of security. In this internet age, security should be inherent and assumed rather than an additional feature.

While talking to support one of many times, I asked if there had been a recent firmware release that might resolve some of the many reported issues. I was told there had not been another firmware release since the units went into main production some years before. I asked if it was anywhere near the top of the "to do" list for developers that there might be a new version soon. I was also told "no" for that. That was a year ago. That's when I decided to ditch them and get some Zwave tstats instead. I've bee almost problem free since.