shannong

The firmware has not been updated on the 2441 thermostats in over 2 years. I wouldn't hold out much hope for that as a resolution.

I prefer SMS for critical alerts such as water leak, security alarm, etc. SMS only requires a basic cell signal and not 3G/4G like MMS or email. SMS will be delivered very fast as opposed to occasional delays such as with MMS or email. I use email for less critical things such as low battery alerts, etc and don't send SMS messages for those. Also, I get so much email I don't even both to have an audible alert or vibration on my phone when I get a new email since my phone would be constantly going off. I just check them occasionally. My phone has a vibrate alert for text messages that's unique and I always check them when they come in.

I looked at Sighthound. It's sounds interesting with it's advanced motion detection. Its worth noting that it does not have an audio channel. I was also having trouble finding info on inbound integration. It can execute local commands when rules are triggered but I didn't find a way to interact with it for inbound requests such as triggering snapshots on certain events to email snapshots and modifying camera profiles on demand. For those two reasons, I didn't include Sighthound in my selection list. In the end, I don't care about the audio and doing it over again would probably give them a closer look as I like the idea of fewer false positives with motion detection. I record continuously on most my cams anyways but I'd like fewer alerts to fish through when necessary.

I downloaded the Word '97 template and updated it to Word 2013. I slightly modified the sizes to fit the buttons better which probably shifted a bit with the version change, and I'm sure each printer is a bit different. I also updated the instructions to be more helpful and succinct. It's attached to this post in a zip file along with the Futura font.

I just wrote something about this on another thread. Read it here. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/15343-what-camera-solutions-are-you-integrating-with-isy/?p=130907

As already mentioned, there are no "Insteon" cameras on the market and Smarthome.com/Smart Labs is pushing the bounds of ethical business practices calling the rebranded Foscams that. I also am using the Hikvision DS-CD2xxxx series. I have 7 of them installed of various flavors including the dome, bullet, and one Wi-Fi. I prefer the domes but had to choose the bullet and a mini-dome in two spots. The features and picture quality are unbeatable in the price range, and I did a lot of shopping before buying. Some DO HAVE ALARM INPUT/OUTPUTS. I don't use mine but was considering that at first. They do not have onboard storage via SSD but I didn't care since I was installing a central DVR. Somebody also mentioned their poor support of some software for auto-recognition (ONVIF) but they improved on that in the last software release. However, it wasn't an issue for me with the software I was using even before that. The night vision is decent on the cams but for most of mine I installed separate LED IR lights are that have their own luminance sensor to turn them on when it's dark. They're about the same size as the cams themselves but I installed them inside the house at the top of my windows facing out to that cam. All my windows have blinds so you never get to see the top of the windown inside even when the blinds are open. It made powering them easier and I didn't have to have another unsightly device installed outside. There are cheap Hikvision cameras available directly from China but it violates their terms, and you'll have no warranty or support. Also, it will ship with Chinese language lacking an options to select English. There are various hacks to fix that on the internet, but it's no cake-walk. I bought two like that. There are various sellers on the internet who will guarantee the original manufacturers warranty (replacing at their own cost without getting reimbursed by the manufacturer), give you support, and get you the current firmware version as its released. I bought my other 5 this way. I used Nellie's Security but haven't had to process an RMA or get support to vouch for it, yet. Hopefully, I won't need to. I'm using Blue Iris as my DVR. Probably not professional quality but again the features you get for the dollar are unmatched from the ones I've compared it against. They have an app for Android devices and it's also available from a web browser. To be honest, I never use either of those. For integration of ISY I use Event Ghost (runs on the same box as Blue Iris) and the ISY's Network Resources. At dusk/dawn, the ISY runs a Network Resource against Event Ghost that triggers a Perl script to directly change the cameras settings, e.g. brightness, noise filter, BLC, etc using JSON calls. I have my doorbell on an IOLinc, so when it is rung the ISY uses a Network Resource to Event Ghost which runs a local Exe that talks to the Blue Iris API which has built-in functions to take a snapshot/video and email/SMS it to me. Another example, I have a camera in the garage which isn't normally recorded to disk. When I open the garage door, this triggers an ISY Network Resource that hits Event Ghost to change profiles on that cam in Blue Iris to begin recording and it keeps going until 2 minutes after it's closed. Same for the gate in my backyard leading to the alley. I also have ISY turn on the exterior lights that help light those scenes during the recording when appropriate and turn them back off again. When I engage various occupancy scenes in the ISY (Away, Sleep, etc), that also triggers a Network Resource to Event Ghost to change the profiles of individual cameras in Blue Iris. Profiles in Blue Iris allow for different recording and motion detection settings. Also, if the house security alarm (integrated Elk M1) is triggered all cameras as set to record and all lights are turned on in/out of the house and a snapshot of each camera at that time is emailed to me. I'm very happy with this setup and it wasn't very complicated to get working. The scripts I use in Event Ghost were found on the internet and modified for my uses. However, it's worth noting I used to be a network admin and had (limited) scripting experience.

It's worth noting that if you want your printed labels to match the lettering on stock buttons (and custom) you'll need to install the Futura font on your PC even if you're using the Word template. The Futura font (.tff file) is in the zip file I attached earlier in this post.

I already made my own Excel template.

Are you saying there's a template to print buttons to be found at the link you provided? I don't see any template on that page. We're not looking to order buttons but rather use a template to print our own labels to use with the clear buttons.

Can you attach to this thread?

I couldn't find a template. Just a PDF with pre-selected words and symbols. Teken - Do you have it or know a good search term to find it? I tried "smarthome template kpl button" and got several hits without striking gold.

Ah hell. I obviously didn't know that.

The font is Futura. It's a commercial font which most sites charge for but keep searching you'll find it to download for free. Interesting note, UDI apparently chose to use Futura for the web page that loads the Admin Console since Smart Labs does. You'll notice that once you have Futura installed the "Please Keep This Window Open" message will be displayed with that font. I'm making mine white background to look as stock as possible. I created an Excel spreadsheet to make my buttons and practiced with regular paper to start with. I'm using bold font at 6 pt with a color that I matched as closely as I could to the stock buttons. However, custom buttons and stock buttons aren't the same shade so I picked something in between since I have mixes on my KPLs. Interestingly, the buttons are not square as I assumed. I couldn't make an Excel grid the exact size because Excel requires a minimum space at the edge before it decides to wrap text. So I had to make the grid slightly larger than the button size. After printing, I use an Exacto knife to cut out the label just inside the grid lines. I attached my spreadsheet and the TTF font file I used. There is a row for buttons with one line of text and two. I didn't fill the whole page with the squares as I would never make that many labels at once but you could easily copy paste to fill the page. Your printer might not print exactly the same as mine but it should be a good starting point to minimize your effort. KPL Template and Font.zip

I also used HomeLinc as my "source" for what each setting provides to make adjustments. Based on my experience, I think it likely that you'll need to adjust them.

Awesome that it's fixed! Glad I could help. I used a spare surge suppressor I already had lying around. At some point I'm sure I spent $20 on it or so.

The ISY does require Java to run an applet known as the Admin Console to manage the unit. I hate Java, too. Version conflicts. Memory and CPU hog. And the list is much longer. Getting the right controller for your HA setup is one of two most important decisions that will affect your happiness with the system. The other being which technology, i.e. Insteon, Zwave, etc. If I had two controller choices and liked them both equally with the only difference being with/without Java, then I'd picked the one without Java. But it would only serve as a tie breaker. If you think a controller has the best mix of features, technology, support, etc, then I wouldn't recommend picking something else just because of the Java.

Of course there's the obvious but not so elegant Insteon solution using an IOLinc with various probes such as these. http://www.smarthome.com/minotaur-engineering-ivt2-variable-temperature-sensor.html http://www.smarthome.com/i-o-linc-insteon-high-and-low-temperature-threshold-kit.html http://www.smarthome.com/i-o-linc-insteon-freezer-failure-sensor-kit.html I have an Elk security system and started off with a similar sensor attached to one of my wireless door sensors that also had a contact sensor inside. However, I've since switched to a dedicated wireless device for my security system designed specifically for detecting temperatures above freezing. For routing the probe wire I drilled a hole through the back of my fridges. I removed the cover on the inside compartment so I could see where all the coils,wires, boards, etc are inside. Just a few small hex bolts. The hardest part was just getting the darn shelves/drawers out. Then I drilled 1/4" hole to accommodate the probe head. The head is much larger than the wire so that left a hole with a gap. That I filled with water based expansion foam from behind to create an air tight and insulated seal. I agree with others who said your fridge is not working properly and could likely be fixed for sub-$200. I'd still get a sensor though since failure is inevitable regardless of the state of the fridge or via power outage. It's worth noting that residential freezers don't maintain temperature well. I was getting false alarms at first. I got a digital thermometer to put in both freezers. They both fluctuated about 8-10 degrees during the cycling process. I put a wait timer on my program that sends alerts to avoid false positives.

If I need anymore On/Off outlets they will definitely be the 2663 dual outlet even if I don't need the other plug controlled. Dual-band is handy as is the ability to get status updates combined with load sensing.

I've since discovered that. Why bother making a home automation node that doesn't update it's status? Ridiculous.

All forgiven.

I tried cutting the breaker to reset this 2473 OutletLinc On/Off following the instructions in the manual. It doesn't behave as in the instructions. It doesn't shut off as you would expect and doesn't buzz like the rest of the Insteon devices when being reset. However, this isn't the first Insteon device I've had where the reset instructions weren't functional. After what I thought was a failed reset attempt I couldn't turn it On/off anymore with ISY. So I deleted from ISY and added it again. I can control it but still no status update. I also noticed one other thing. When I click select Advanced->PLM Communications I get an error saying this device doesn't support PLM settings. I do have one other 2473. It behaves the same. No status update and no PLM settings. Guess these things are just kind of lame that way. I never use the On button on the 2473 OutletLincs so I don't really care. It's been 18 months since I installed them and haven't used the button yet or noticed this behavior. <shrug> The 2472D OutletLinc Dimmers work as expected for both status and PLM settings. Note to self: No more 2473OutletLinc On/Off unless absolutely necessary.

Two counts a few hours apart showed 720 links in the PLM table. I had the Event Viewer on Level 3 and didn't see any other Insteon traces during the walk of the table. The 780 before was good as I got it twice times with no traffic 60 links fewer certainly sounds reasonable for cleaning up unused links. The difference from 472 was worrying me, but that was also before updating the battery devices, which I didn't think of at first.

I had no choice but to walk the house and test each device. The ratio was smaller than at first thought so I guess it was just bad luck with the first few I checked. Out of ~100 devices, I had issues with approx 10. Several worked fine after just a device restore. A few had to be removed and added back to ISY. All are working now except for one. A single Outletlinc 2473. I restored it and even tried deleting it. After adding it back, it still won't update its status even though I can control it. I'd delete it and factory reset it but I'm solo at home right now and can't get to that Outlet in under 1/60 sec.. The reset instructions using the button never work for me. Not sure if that's operator error or directions that are erroneous.

I had 780 before the restore. I show 472 now. Not sure if that shows a restore issue or just a defrag/compress of old records.

Start your own post please. In the forum world this is called hijacking a thread and considered poor etiquette.