shannong

Apostolakisl is right. Only Tasker is necessary to do this. I was previously doing this my DD-WRT router with a script but it wasn't very reliable. Via REST it would set a variable on ISY when devices associated. I'm now in the process of doing this via Tasker instead so that it's based on soley on Wi-Fi association. The only drawback is the need to do it on each device in the family vs in one place on my DD-WRT router.

You could certainly test for that and it might help. In my experience it hasn't. I have over a hundred dual-band nodes in my house and until I cleaned the powerline signal suckers and noise makers I did not have reliable communications even though every room has multiple dual-band devices and the PLM is dual-band.

In the future try a "Restore Device" first. That fixes most issues with corrupt link tables, etc. That way you don't have to recreate scenes, programs, etc.

Well, Davis doesn't have a BBQ temperature sensor like Oregon, but this option looks promising. I didn't know the ISY Weatherbug module could pull down MY data feed vs location based. Maybe I can get lucky and find a neighbor close by with a data feed already. Thanks for the tip.

No. But thanks for the tip. I'm looking for weather sensors such as ambient temperature, air pressure, wind speed, wind direction, humidity, etc.

I personally recommend against exposing home automation to the internet running on somebody else's servers. When they are hacked you are hacked. Especially a bad idea for those using integrated door locks or integrating their home security system. Do you really want to expose your home usage data to Google like you do your browsing data so they can provide you with better advertising?

I agree with Xathros. I have previously owned the 2441TH (wired) and 2441ZTH (wireless) Insteon tstats and they were a complete headache. I haven't heard many complaints from those using the Venstar + Insteon modules. I ended up getting a 2Gig Zwave tstat. Keep in mind that Zwave on the ISY is beta so you'll have a different set of headaches to deal with there. I have found that temperature sensors and tstats to be the most problematic area for home automation so far.

They are all unchecked because the ISY pulls the settings from the device at the time the Options window is opened. That's the reason why the Options window has it's own Query button. For whatever reason, you're obviously having difficulty with ISY interfacing with the device so it's not able to pull what the current settings are on the device. The differences you see are a symptom of the problem rather than a unique or additional problem. I guess you've decided to not upgrade to v4.1.2? I personally think that's your best next step.

Bump. I'd really like to integrate weather sensors while also making them easily displayed in the house. The RFXCOM with Oregon sensors seems to be the best variety from a single supplier and reasonably priced.

I don't think I would qualify leaving the default username/password and making the ISY available to the internet as "hacked". Why do you say that? There's nothing to indicate that they were "on the network". He said it was available to the internet on the default port with the default username/password. Thus no need for local access. As someone else already mentioned, disabling SSID broadcast provides no security against hacking. The SSID is still sent in clear text during beacons by clients for association. It just makes it more difficult for some devices to associate.

Last time I worked on the hot water heater I needed to drain it. After shutting off the water, I opened the closest hot water faucet so air could be pulled into the system and allow the tank to drain faster. The water drained out of the hot water faucet (presumably from upstairs) for about 30 min.

Thanks for the experimental data.

Hmm.... Didn't think of that. The lip of the mat is flush against the back wall. I just poured a cup of water down the back wall and most drained into the mat and set off the sensor. I think I'm good in the kitchen. That might not work for the utility cabinet with washer since it's a textured wall rather cabinet back. I'll have to rethink the idea of getting one for in there.

I've added one more thing to my setup. For my sinks in a cabinet, I've put in a mat that actually holds water and have the sensor sitting in it. The one I picked up holds 3 gal. There are also companies that make one for washers that I plan install in the utility room cabinet.

Thanks for the update. Congrats on the finish. I was the one who suggested another valve to bleed the system. I'm in TX so we don't have basements but I do have a second story which provides the same problem. You should probably consider another valve in the basement that opens and flows directly into the drain pipe of the sink like a dishwasher would do. That will work even better than the one I have planned that would be at ground level outside. Mind sharing the total cost of the plumber?

I made the assumption you had power to the KPL since you said that you reset it, which is probably a bad assumption. Does it have power and stay powered on? Can you clarify if you're asking about wiring problems or ISY configuration?

The top sensor tells me the door is in one of the two states that are valid and safe: open or closed. Anything else is bad and I want to know that. If I send a request to open the door and it doesn't fully open I'll never know that with a bottom sensor only. I have a program to track an Open Request and an Close Request. Without a top sensor, I can't ever know the Open Request completed and clear out the Open Request variable. It's definitely not necessary but i find it helpful. Later I'll add cameras to my setup and I'll be able to have a camera that shows a view of the garage door if I need it. Until, I appreciate the top sensor to know the door is opened. I'll export my programs and post them here in a zip file.

There are numerous threads on here about how to setup a 3-way a circuit and also some brief instructions in the Wiki. Simply search the forums with "3 way". http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Multi-Way_Circuit The short answer is that you need to create a scene and put both the ToggleLinc and KPL in the scene with both set as controllers.

You can import from files and even the clipboard but the programs must be formatted in XML which is too difficult to type out IMO. You can see the format by Exporting to file or clipboard with a right-click on a program.

I'm using an IOlinc with a contact sensor like many on here to detect door status and control the motor. I read many old posts to get ideas and put my programs together. Thanks to everyone for their contributions. I just wanted to share that I've added a secondary contact sensor on the guide rail on top with the magnet near the bottom of the door so that I can detect when the door is fully open. I'm much happier with the operation now that I can more reliably detect open and close. With just the bottom sensor, I can only know the door is not closed which does not necessarily mean it successfully opened. I only set my Open and Closed variables when both sensors agree on the state. I have programs and variables to track a "close request" and an "open request" with a timer that creates an error state whenever the door doesn't show closed after a "close request" or doesn't show open (using the new sensor on top) after an "open request" within 15 seconds (time it takes to open and close). I also have a program that creates an error state and notification if the top and bottom sensors are both open for more than 15 seconds even if there wasn't a request to open or close which detects problems with an open/close request initiated from the manual wall button, car remote, etc. Also, if an error and notification is generated such as when the door failed to close I also have programs that set an error variable that is then cleared with a notification saying the door has finally closed and all is OK. That way when I'm not home and for example say the door didn't close after somebody attempted to but that person then resolves the issue I'll get first the warning notification of the problem and then a notification it was resolved so I know all is OK and I don't have to fret and wonder and contemplate driving home. I also don't need to start texting/calling family members to see who was home, who caused it, was it resolved, etc. They get the warning notification too so I expect they'll normally resolve it on their own and when I receive the "problem resolved" text I know that indeed happened and I can go on about my day. I control my IOlinc to open/close the door using the On/Off buttons of a KPL. Whenever the door is open I set the KPL On and Off whenever it is closed. The door can be opened or closed by pressing On or Off regardless of the current state of the door. I also use an "Away" scene whenever we leave the house and it is activated whenever the Elk alarm is armed. I have one of the KPLs arm the alarm AND open the garage door when we leave so that with one button press the garage door is be opened, alarm is armed, and Away scene is set. Whenever Away is active and the garage door is open for more than 60 seconds a notification is sent so we don't accidentally leave the door open after we drive away. I added a query to the error checking programs before notifying and setting variables in case the problem is simply an Insteon message was lost updating the ISY about its state. A notification is sent any time after 10pm whenever the door is open and also whenever we turn on the Sleep scene at night. I'm happy to share programs if anyone is interested. Feedback and other suggestions encouraged.

I suggest you upgrade to v4.1.2 to see if that resolves the issue. Of course, do a backup of your config first as a precaution.

The SynchroLinc could detect the presence of an on appliance consuming power and thus "know" it's on. You would need to plug a SynchroLinc into a OutletLinc or On/Off Module. You could then easily create a timer to shut the OutletLinc off after something is turned on. You'll end up a big wall wart for the setup, though. Another draw back will be that ISY will complain about the SynchroLinc being non-responsive when the OutletLinc is off. I'd love to see a combined SynchroLinc and OutletLinc in one but there isn't one currently. You'll also probably need to create a program to query the SynchroLinc when turning the OutletLinc back on so the ISY would know it has returned. Alternatively, you could rig an IoLinc connected to relay that would sit in line between the SynchroLinc and a plug for the appliances to disrupt the power without turning off or using an OutletLinc. It's a very messy setup. I'd suggest creating an "away" scene for you house and link it to a KPL button. Use it to turn off all unwanted lights, plugs, etc when leaving including that plug. That would alleviate the need for the SynchroLinc. Upon returning, you would turn off the KPL and thus the away scene. You could then also do things like turn on a light(s) when you return if the time is past Sunset, for example.

Yes. I have two and all work as expected to program the modules from the ISY. Remember that once programmed, the devices are talking to each other locally only down a few feet of wire. So that doesn't tell us there isn't a communication problem to/from the ISY and the module. Communications with ISY is much further with more opportunities for noise and signal suckers to cause problems plus they may be on different phases. That's one of the reasons I asked about the ability to restore without error. That sends a lot of data from the ISY to the dimmer and is a reasonable test of good communications. As you indicated that works fine so we can reasonably rule out communication problems. What version of firmware? Do you have more than one dimmer and if so does it exhibit the same problem? Have you tried a factory reset on the module?

By "cannot be" programmed do you mean the options are showing but they do not get updated to the device when you select them and click "Done". What shows in the Event Viewer when you try? What version of ISY software are you running? Do you have the "Write Updates to Device" disabled? It's the green button with 1's and 0's on it. When grayed out, it means updates are not written until enabled again. Note that due to Java errors the button doesn't always appear. Mine is only there one out of five times when I open the Admin console. What happens you use the "Restore Device" function? Does it complete without error?

I'm considering a mortised electrical deadbolt like those from DynaLock. Nothing exposed to defeat. And I could put one at the top and bottom requiring significant force to defeat for entry. I want to wire it to a door handle with integrated keypad for open/close via a PIN. I'm having trouble finding one that has tamper sensor so that the mechanism would be disabled if opened. But then my house still has windows, too.