KHouse

Quick follow-up question to this though... If your program states "if - six button switch is OFF", "then- turn off new scene"...you'd never be able to turn on any of the lights individually unless those 2 basements lights were ON (thus the 6 button switch was on). Basically what I'm looking to do is have the OFF button be a catch all to turn all of the lights off when the OFF button is pressed. But...if I want to turn the laundry room light on (while the rest of the basement is OFF), then that wouldn't be possible because it would register the 6 button switch as OFF and just turn the laundry room back off right away? Would that be correct or am I thinking about that wrong?

Thank you. That's how I figured it might work / hoped it would work since it seemed there wasn't a way to link them to just the OFF button at the switches themselves.

Thanks for all the recent help folks getting my first 6 button switch connected (in that mess of a 3-way wiring I had to figure out). In any case, now hopefully someone will be able to help with the programming/scene. Searching only pulls up some possibly good responses on the Smarthome forum, but those links are dead so hoping someone here with knowledge can help. I've got my 6 button Insteon switch ON button connected to (2) lights in the basement. However, I would like the OFF button on that 6 button switch to control more than just those (2) lights that is linked to the ON button. That is, in our laundry room and hallway down there, I've got Insteon switches too. I don't want the ON function to operate them from the 6 button switch, but do want the OFF button from the 6 button switch to turn all basement lights off (if they're on). Is there a way to program or control the 6 button switch OFF button to control the off function of all of the lights, but have the ON function control just 2 of them? Again appreciate very much any help.

I am using the Mobilinc Connect portal to talk to Alexa (not the ISY portal to Alexa). Sort of a resolution though. I deleted all devices in the Alexa app, disabled the skill, and re-started the ISY. No luck. But, in honor of "sales guy vs. IT guy" Youtube video from 10 years ago where the IT guy jokes/tricks the sales guy into restarting his computer 3 times to fix a technical issue...I did just that. Repeated the disable and re-connect/discover 3 times, and on the 3rd time it found all devices and everything works as it should again.

I’ve got a bit of an issue and was hoping someone could help me troubleshoot. I’ve got and ISY994i running Insteon devices, tied to MobiLinc and Alexa (MobiLinc portal in the ISY). My voice control through the Alexa was getting a bit spotty. Some voice controls worked, some didn’t, and some that didn’t work one day would work again an hour later without problems. For example, “Alexa, turn on the kitchen hall light”. This would work fine one day, not work the next, or not work but an hour later I’d try and it would work fine. Finally decided to troubleshoot this today for good as many of the lights weren’t working (but some still were). In the Amazon account, I could see that ½ of my lights weren’t showing as discovered devices (that’s why they wouldn’t work). How/why they would come back on their own, I have no idea. Some of the devices showing were devices that didn’t work yesterday. So they are sometimes recognized and sometimes not. I tried to discover all. Found no new devices. Confirmed Mobilinc portal shows good in the ISY (under configuration>portal). Refreshed anyway. Removed all devices from Alexa. Disabled the Mobilinc skill. Re-enabled the Mobilinc skill and tried to discover devices, but it only discovers the other Amazon devices and a printer I have, but none of the Insteon light switches (through ISY). Any idea what I can try to have Alexa recognize these devices through Mobilinc/ISY? *To add a weird bit to it. Under the discovered devices I did not have “Kitchen Hall Light”. But if I scroll down in the Alexa app, that light did show under a different icon (more devices listed there). I could turn it on/off through the Alexa app (which I didn’t know was a thing as I never looked there or used that app to turn lights on/off as I just use Mobilinc). So the Alexa app see's the device, and can control it, but doesn't recognize it as a voice control device?

Glad to hear Wes. Just as a side thought, do you have plans to continue offering MobiLinc Pro? I prefer the layout in Pro (specifically the Dashboard) to X, so never changed over to X.

Thanks Mr.Bill. Makes sense. To add a little bit more info though...it's not just that one voice command that won't work when it doesn't work. When it doesn't work, none of them work. I've got probably 15 different commands to controls lights/fans, but when it "goes down", none of them will work.

Hoping someone could help (not sure if this is the right forum/sub-forum but seemed like the best place for this). Running an ISY994i, Elk, MobiLinc, Alexa's. Using the voice control, I could say "Alexa, turn off the couch lights " (for example). This command has worked, always / sort of. I've been running into some communication issues where my ISY didn't work / voice commands didn't work. I would power cycle the ISY, and they would work again for a while. This however started occurring more frequently. As of recently though, the power cycle doesn't work. Voice controls sometimes work, and sometimes they don't. (I get the error from Alexa that says "Couch lights does not support this". And then an hour later the voice controls work. Again, where a power cycle of the ISY used to fix this, it now does not fix it. Only time "fixes" it, and randomly works/doesn't work. On a similar note I've been getting issues where programs wont run (like my outdoor lights coming on at sunset). Just a few days ago before the Insteon mess I submitted a ticket regarding the programs not running, however with everything going on with Insteon right now I want to leave Michel alone so that he can work on that more important matter. (He always provides great tech support when needed but I know he's super busy right now so want to let him deal with that stuff and I can wait). Appreciate any guidance on where to look.

I've been off the board for a while...and noticed on this sub-forum for MobiLinc there hasn't been any new topics/posts in 2 years. Any idea why? Did I miss something? (I use MobiLinc and works fine so they must still be in business!)

Just to follow-up with this. I've successfully incorporated the Amazon Echo into our home automation. I'm very surprised how much we use it to turn on the kitchen or family room lights. It seems almost easier to just tell her to do it, then it is to touch the light switch. So far I'm just using the Echo to control Insteon lights via MobiLinc / ISY.

Yes, thank you...and sorry about that. I'm using iOS. I had yesterday off, so spent a good bit of the day on this. Purchased the Elk module in the ISY, purchased the ELK plugin for MobiLinc, set those two up, and ordered an Echo Dot to get started with that. Looking forward to finally integrating my home security (door sensors and what not) with the ISY and Automation part of my home control, not to mention adding in the Echo as well. My PLM has gone bad, and I had been delaying replacing it (with my HA working like crap now after running for years with no issues). That is what caused me start looking at my HA and Security again, and decided that while replacing the PLM, I might as well integrate everything better, and add an Echo while I'm at it. So next weekend should be fun. eKeypad on the iPad/iPod plays nicely with the alarm being handled by MobiLinc on my phone, as I had assumed it would, but wasn't sure. Of course I think the Elk sends the data out and ISY, MobiLinc, eKeypad all pick up the same "data", so if you set the alarm on MobiLinc, the iPad at the front door running eKeypad acknowledges the armed status. I really wanted to be sure that would all work together, assumed it would, but am happy that it does without any problems.

After further research, I guess it looks like I could go either way: ISY Portal or MobiLinc Connect. With either I'd be able to accomplish what I'd like to accomplish, but since I already have MobiLinc connect, maybe it's just best to purchase the Elk Module for my ISY (since I've been controlling the Elk separately via eKeypad), and then purchase the Elk module in MobiLinc app, and I'll just have one place on my phone for automation/security, and then all of that can also be controlled via MobiLinc/Echo. Can anyone please confirm if that seems appropriate and the right decision?

I'm running an ISY 994i, Insteon Devices (basic stuff like lights, smoke bridge / smoke alarms, etc), Elk M1, MobiLinc for mobile phone app control (automation), and eKeypad (iPad and iPod mounted in wall to control the alarm / blueprint of the home to turn on/off lights, and mobile app control of the alarm). I do not have the Elk module for the ISY as I've been controlling the ELK via eKeypad app on my phone. I do not have the Elk plug-in for MobiLinc, as I've been controlling the Elk via eKeypad app on my phone. I've sort of left my whole system alone for the last couple of years with the automation and security parts seperate, and it's been fine. However, I'd like to take advantage of an Amazon Echo now, and not sure exactly what the best way is to have my ISY + Elk + Echo talking to each other. I'd like to keep eKeypad for the blueprint and alarm controls at the doors, and I assume that any changes to the Elk would flow through to show there too (for example, when I use the actual Elk keypad to arm/disarm, that also shows armed/disarmed in the eKeypad app, want to make sure that continues). I'd like to do the basics, "Alexa, turn on the family room lights", and have that turn on the lights, and update on the eKeypad app/blueprint showing they are on. I'd also like to say, "Alexa, turn on the alarm", and have the alarm armed (also updating/showing on eKeypad at the front door). What is the best/proper way to integrate my system so that I can utilize eKeypad at the front door (iPad mounted in wall), and MobiLinc on my phone (so that I can access home automation and alarm while out and about), while being able to utilize Echo in the home?? Should I purchase the Elk module for ISY and MobiLinc so that the Elk has control via MobiLinc, then purchase the Echo and set it up via the MobiLinc plugin so that essentially the Echo talks to MobiLinc which then talks to the ISY which then talks to the Elk and Insteon? Somewhere I was reading you couldn't have both the Echo and Elk plugins for MobiLinc so now I think my thought process is incorrect. Appreciate any help!

Looks like my thermostat went out (LuxPro), so purchased an Insteon 2441TH to replace it with since I'm running a bunch of Insteon along with an ISY994i. Just recevied it from Amazon (same day shipping), and on the inside there is a sticker that says: 2441TH V2.1 3515 I thought they were up to version 5 now? But could be wrong. In any case, can someone please let me know if this is the older problematic version, or if I "should" be ok? If it's the older one, it's definitely going back to Amazon tomorrow.

After a week of testing/watching/etc...all seems to be working as intended. Thanks for the help Paul! First time I've used a program to call-up another program. Thanks for the lesson.

Thanks. So the lights turn on as they should...but...they do not turn off after 2 minutes. They just stay on. Thoughts?

Thanks for the reply Paul. Going to try this now. Do you mind explaining what "control" does or is versus "status". My programs, and understanding of all of it is pretty basic, so I'm not sure what the difference is or why you would use one over the other. Thanks again.

I'm racking my brain trying to figure this out, but not coming up with a solution that works on all accounts, so hoping you folks can help. I had old garage door openers with I/O Lincs. The only programs were: 1.) If garage doors open after sunset, turn out 2 sets of lights inside the house. 2.) If garage doors are open more than 30 min, email and text me. (program "borrowed" from this forum) I have installed new Liftmaster 8500 jack shaft openers, and have them working great with the I/O Lincs. However, those new openers have a separate light fixture from the opener, that works off of a radio frequency from the openers. I don't want to clutter the garage ceiling any more than it is...so instead of using the garage opener lights, I would like to use the actual ceiling lights in the garage to turn on when the garage doors open. What I'm trying to accomplish (leaving old programs the same, adding new for below): 3.) If garage doors open, and the garage lights are OFF, then turn the garage lights ON. When the garage closes, wait 2 minutes, then turn the lights OFF. *Would like this to only work if the lights were OFF to begin with, and they were turned ON by the garage opening. If I'm already in the garage working (the lights are ON), I don't want the garage doors opening/closing to affect the lights at all. **There are 2 garage doors, labeled LEFT and RIGHT. Running into issues no matter how I program it. I'm pretty sure I have to use variables, just not sure how to get it going. With the program I have, it waits 2 minutes, turns them OFF. But if the garage door is still open, it turns them back on, waits 2 minutes, and turns them off....and repeats like this. How do I incorporate the door closing into this, and also how do I incorporate this only happening if 2 conditions are met (lights were OFF, door is opened)? Any help is appreciated!! I've messed around all morning with this and despite my wife walking by several times and telling me I'll figure it out eventually....it's not happening! Here's what I'm left with after stripping away a bunch of lines of things I thought would work. I 'think' this is the base starting point that I'm working off of. If Status 'Garage Lights' is Off And Status 'Garage Door - Left-Sensor' is On Or Status 'Garage Door - Right-Sensor' is On Then Set 'Garage Lights' On Wait 2 minutes Set 'Garage Lights' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Just wanted to add input here that I had two new Liftmaster 8500 units installed, and used my old I/O Lincs (which were soldered to a spare remote), wired directly into the 8500 motors, and it works great. I do have the non-LCD wall button/controller for the 8500's. When I first researched this after already buying the 8500's, I read a whole lot about how these are not compatible with the I/O Linc...but I guess it's the wall mount controller that dictates if these will work or not. With the normal non-LCD controller everything works nice just as it should. Thanks for all the help in this thread.

That's a great idea, thanks Teken. Unfortuantely I'm not going to be able to give it any time to troubleshoot this evening...so at this pont I'll leave it at 3:00 am and see what happens in the morning. I'll touch base here again tomorrow with an update. Thanks again.

Thanks. I've tried to query it, and I've hit "restore device" which I guess restored all of them tied together. Those were both done today. Wonder if that fixed it. Guess I'll have to wait until 3:00am to find out! Does anyone know what function exactly the CLEAR does/has?

3 nights ago, conveniently at 4am, our master bedroom smoke alarm went into low battery. Battery replaced, smoke alarm is quiet. I'm running several smoke alarms, tied to a smoke-bridge, and the ISY994i. (First Alert brand smoke/C02) I've got a program running to text/email me if one of the "all other" conditions are met (not smoke or carbon monoxide), such as low battery. I got the text and email at 4:23am just as it went into low battery, so it worked as it should of. However, now I'm getting that same text/email at 3:00am during the querry. I don't know what's wrong or how to reset this, or make it work properly. Anyone have any ideas how to stop this from happening at the 3:00 querry? The CLEAR function doesn't show ON or OFF for state. It's always empty, and that's why the program shows ON or OFF for that function, to register the text/email to be sent. At least that's why I think the program is written this way. It was done years ago so I cannot remember. Maybe this is my problem? If Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Clear' is On Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Clear' is Off Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Low Bat' is On Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Malfunction' is On Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Unknown Message' is On Then Send Notification to 'Peter Cell' content 'Fire Alarm - All Other' Send Notification to 'Peter Email' content 'Fire Alarm - All Other' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Well folks, looks like we have success! In the switchbox, Switchlinc LINE to the blues, LOAD to the one orange which goes to the fixtures, neutral to neutrals, (no ground), capped the other two orange wires (travelers). In the defunct box. Removed both switches, capped all the wires individually. Will get a plate cover tomorrow, cut out the pegboard around this box, and we're done. Everything is in, some special organizing was necessary to make the Switchlinc fit, but we're all good to. Breaker is on, lights work. Now to add this new switch to the ISY and create some programs for them. Thanks to apostolakisl, stusviews, larryllix, mwester, oberke, paulbates, and algorithm for all of your help. And especially thanks to apostolakisl for walking me through these last few steps. It's awesome to have a great forum/resource like this to turn to.

Ok. I think we got it. The switch had 3 oranges. 1 went UP in the box, and 2 went out of the side. A blue also went UP, so figured that orange is the standout, and the likely wire to the fixtures. Connected that orange to the LOAD, the LINE to the blues, and the neutral to the new netruals. Breaker back ON, switch OFF, no volts on the orange at the fixture. Switch turned ON...120 volts! I think that means we have it. Going to re-wire the fixtures, cap everything in the defunct box, and the Switchlinc is already wired up. But...how the heck am I going to fit all these wires and the oversized switchlinc box back into this box. No idea. I'll report back once I have lights that turn on and off.

So I have neutrals in the switch boxes, in the fixture box, theres just an orange and a white (which are both hard wired to the light fixture). No separate neutrals capped together, like in the switch boxes. I assume this is how it should be? The white (neutral?) in the fixture box connects to the fixture. Sorry, still trying to learn all the lingo and what is found in what box. To date, my experience has been only with Switchlincs, the Garage Opener kit, and integrating smoke alarms (wireless). Nothing with actual fixtures yet...so don't know if just two wires (orange and white) is correct, or if there should be two wires and then some capped off neutrals in the box too (like in the switch boxes). I think that's a silly question...but just want to be sure. Doesn't take more than 2 minutes to ask and hopefully not burn down the house!