KHouse

In the second example, you're saying to take one of the three orange wires, and connect it to the blues. Then test the fixture orange wire. If that wire shows voltage (hot)...then that would become the LOAD wire. Try the three orange wires one by one until I get HOT at the fixtures?

Yes, you understand correctly. It seems like the blues in the box are hots. So then splice in my LINE from the Switchlinc into the bundle of blues? As for the LOAD to the fixtures...I assume it's got to be one of the tow travelers I connect to? How do I determine which/what is the LOAD? And then what do I do with the wiring at the defunct box? Just disconnect and cap everything?

No other boxes we have looked at have a blue in it...except for one of the fixtures which has a blue come in the box and out of the box (passing through the box) but not connected to anything.

Or...would it just be easiest for me to pickup another Switchlinc, put one in both boxes, and wire accordingly for 2 Switchlincs in a "3-way" (controller / responder)? If that's the easiest route to go, I'd spend the $50 and be done. If it is, could someone explain how to wire that, and that's what I'll do? Or if Ohm'ing everything out is best, I'll do that.

Inside the switch box, there are a bunch of blues capped off together. Would this maybe be the HOT coming in, and then one of the splices runs out to that defunct box? If so, could I just take power from this group of capped blue wires for the HOT I need for the Switchlinc?

Earlier apostolakisl mentioned I needed to disconnect all the wires, including at the fixtures. Should I reconnect the fixtures and get another reading at the switches? The soon to be defunct switch had the blue wire, which was the only wire that read voltage. The switch which I would like to be the Switchlinc has all orange wires, all of which had 0 readings.

Sorry I could not get the #'s last night (late at work), but grabbed them this morning. Disconnected the wires at the fixtures, and disconnected the wires at the switches. Circuit breaker back on, this is what I get: Box #1 (Inside the house - will be Switchlinc). Has multiple wires in it. Several blues capped together, several whites capped together, several reds capped together. Switch: 3 Orange wires. All read 0 volts. Box # 2 (Soon to be Defunct / Remove Box). Just the orange wires, blue wire, and 1 white wire by itself not connected to anything (reads 0 volts). Switch: 2 orange wires. Both read 0 volts. 1 blue wire. Reads 120 volts. (connected to the black screw, then continues on to the single pole switch next to it). Light Fixtures: Orange wire reads 0 volts. White wire reads 0 volts. A couple of the fixtures have multiple orange and white wires, and a couple of them have a single white and single orange wire. One light fixture box has a blue wire that goes into the box, then back out of the box not connected to anything. The remainder of the boxes have no other wires in them. Pictures for reference. Thanks again for everyone's help!! *To mwester's earlier point. I am in the Chicago suburbs as well. House built in the early 1990's. No ground wire anywhere....just the conduit/boxes for grounding. **I put some electrical tape and/or duct tape on the wires as a reference to what wire is what so that I could put it back together the same way. Those pieces of tape were not there before. ***Pictures attached of Box 1, Box 2, Fixture Wiring, and Outside Fixture (the fixtures are fluorescent shop lights, which are hard wired to the fixture boxes). Sorry about the picture orientation. Doesn't matter how I orient them, the forum turns them when I upload them.

Sounds good. I'll report back with the readings later on today.

Thanks everyone for the replies and help. Unfortunately yesterday I got way more involved with cleaning out the attic than I had planned, and since I had some friends over helping we went into that project for the full day, and I was unable to look at this switch. Now that that is over... back to this switch. I'll grab the info some of you requested (voltage readings, etc), and report back this evening when I get home from work. Thanks again for everyones help! Really hoping we can figure this out!

Thanks Al. You're probably right. There is no light there...but maybe they planned for one and in the end it didn't work out? Or...they sided over the location of the "outdoor" box and who knows where it's at. We'll be re-doing the siding in the next year or so...so I guess we'll find out. Again, that one switch only has 1 wire coming into it...so don't think it actually operates anything.

Neutrals are good. I have no ground wires in any box (the boxes and conduit do the grounding, no ground wires anywhere). Having trouble finding the hot. Breaker ON, lights OFF. Box #1 has one wire with voltage (black screw), the two others have no voltage. Box #2 (inside the garage), has voltage going to two wires (the blue wire and one of the orange).

Thanks Paul. Yes, I don't actually want a 3-way configuration, so remove and cap is what I'm after. The two switches act as a 3-way, and they both turn the garage lights on/off. Yes, I have a voltmeter. 1. Yes, the black screw is the terminal where the blue wire is attached on the soon to be defunct switch (you called it gray but they're actually blue). The oranges are at the bottom, one on each side (pic attached). Just that one blue wire continues on to the miscellaneous switch, which has only that wire connected to it. Cannot figure out what that switch would operate. This box has 1 extra wire, which is white, and just taped over...not capped or connected to anything (nice huh?!). 2. Pic attached. There are whites (capped), blues (capped), reds (capped), and the yellow/black which go to the 2nd switch in the box (right switch). That switch operates as a 3 way for a light in the house. 3. Just the white, taped over wire. I do have a voltmeter. To clarify a little bit. Box #1 is the box inside the house. This has two switches (garage lights - left switch) and (inside foyer light - right switch). I'd like the left switch (garage lights) to become a Switchlinc, right switch (foyer light) stays as is. Box #2 was the switches behind the pegboard in the garage. This box has the "other" 3-way switch for the garage lights (right switch), and the single pole left switch with 1 wire connected and who knows what it operates. Both of these are not necessary switches as we've never used them, they're in the back corner of the garage, and I don't mind capping these completely and not using them at all. Thanks everyone for your help!! *No matter how I have the pictures rotated, when I upload them, the forum turns them sideways. Not sure how to correct that.

Ok, so I'm working with these two switches. The switch with the all orange is the one I'd like to be a Switchlinc. The other pictures shows two switches, the right one being the 3-way switch that ties into the Switchlinc. How best/safest to make the 2nd switch inoperable, and make the 1st switch the only one that works (being a Switchlinc). Any correct way to do this? And to be compliant with code I'll cut out a square in the panel where the switches are on the wall. (It's pegboard with holes in it to add hangers and what not for tools).

Most (if not all) of the other switches in my home have multiple colors. Bunch of different colors used, the whites are always nuetrual though, and this one switch is wired weird in that it has all orange wires.

Forgot to answer...my house has white neutrals capped off in each of the boxes. I guess I don't know how to conclusively check that these are neutrals, but they are white, they do cap off inside each of the boxes, they are never connected to anything else, and all of my Switchlincs have worked fine for years using these "neutrals".

Found the other switch! We have a side door near the back corner of the garage that has enver been used, and we have paneling for tools screwed in around it. Figured there must be a switch near both doors...but honestly, had no clue that switch was there / couldn't remember that it was there as the panneling had been put up years ago. In any case, took part of it down, and found the switch right were it should have been. So....I guess now the question is: How do I properly wire this so that this 2nd switch does not work, and the first switch becomes an Insteon Switchlic and operates the garage lights. After this is all set, I'm going to put the panel back up and this 2nd switch wont be used ever. Thanks again for all the help. (the switch on the right is the 3-way switch, I have no clue what the switch on the left operates)

Thanks for the info. I've attached another pic, and lettered the wires for reference. I've confirmed the light switch powers the lights on (there's 5 ceiling lights in the garage) when the breaker is ON. When the breaker is flipped OFF, the switch does not power on the lights. With the breaker OFF, lights ON or OFF, I get 0 readings across all 3. With the breaker ON, lights OFF, I get 120V at C. 0 readings at A and B. With the breaker ON, lights ON, I get 120V at C and B (which is also the black screw). I'm also getting 13 or so at A. Thoughts? Thanks again!

Looking to get some help here. I've got a light switch right next to the door that leads from my house into the garage, which operates the garage ceiling lights. Been here 20 years, and as far as I know this is the only switch that powers the ceiling lights in the garage. However, as I go to replace this switch with an Insteon on/off switch, I find that it's a 3-way setup. This switch having the constant hot and 2 travelers (all 3 of which are orange colored wires). In any case, what would the proper setup be to connect my Insteon switch. I do not care if the "other" switch doesn't work any longer, as it is missing...but wanted to be sure I could safely wire this one switch having the 2 traverls and constant hot on this end. Thoughts or help? Any help is very much appreciated!! *I do not have access to any of the wiring on the other end as I do not know where the other end/switch is. **SECOND SWITCH WAS FOUND, PLEASE READ BELOW**

Forgot to attach the image. Here it is.

Maybe I'm overcomplicating this very simple program, but looking to see if someone can help me figure out the "responding" choice in the condition choices. I've checked the UDI wiki page (http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page) , and Googling ISY and responding pulls up thousands of results none of which address this as the word responding seems to pop-up in every ISY related post. I haven't done much to my automation in a while, so I'm forgetting some of the basics. Added one closet light this year, and now looking to add a LampLinc Dimmer plug-in module for our Christmas tree lights (really justing using it for on/off, not dimming). One of the programs I would like, is for the tree to simply turn-off if it is 11:00 pm. In my "programming" I'm looking to see: - If time is 11:00pm and Christmass Tree Lights is ON - Then turn Christmass Tree Lights to OFF. However, there's no option in the condition choices for ON. It's either RESPONDING, OFF, or a percentage. Is RESPONDING the same as ON? Also, should I even be checking the condition to see if it is on, or should I just do: If 11:00pm then turn Christmas Tree Lights to OFF? Does the responding have something to do with it being a dimmer module? I can only assume that RESPONDING is the same as ON but would like some confirmation. Screenshot below for reference. Additionally, and on a side note, I wanted to be clear on the LampLinc module. The LampLinc is just a ON/OFF module that allows dimming, and thus it's rated at 300W + lamps only, while the ON/OFF Module is rated at 1800W + anything can be plugged in. Amy I missing anything? Thanks for the help!

Thanks shannong. Exactly what I needed. I'll play around with it tonight and update. Hopefully all works as easy as it seems it should. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Working with the setting on water, and loop 1, I'm getting a zone trouble - water alarm when wet, and when I pull the sensor out of the water, the alarm goes off. Totally lost here and trying every combination possible! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got the sensor setup with the wires, but when there's water on the screws, I get ready to arm. When no water is present, there's no "connection" so my system is Not Ready to Arm. (I've got this setup as Burglar 1/2 just for easy of seeing how/when it connects, does not connect). Essentially, it seems like it's working in reverse. I've got to be setting the setting up incorrectly. Anyone know the proper way to setup the settings?!

Hmmm...ok. So, with that said, how do I connect the unit together? I've tried having the magnet attached to the board (as in reading a closed door) and water on the wires, no luck. Works like normal, magnet on is good, magnet off sounds an immediate alarm. How do I connect the "1st and 2nd loops"? Any help is much appreciated! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And...now it seems after playing with this stuff the TELCO SEIZED and DIALER ACTIVE LED's are constantly lit on my M1. I've disabled the sensor I've been testing, and shut down/restarted the M1...but still the 2 LEDS are constant on. Anyone have any ideas about that? P.S...I'm not currently connected to the central station monitoring.