KHouse

I'm running an ISY 994i, Insteon Devices (basic stuff like lights, smoke bridge / smoke alarms, etc), Elk M1, MobiLinc for mobile phone app control (automation), and eKeypad (iPad and iPod mounted in wall to control the alarm / blueprint of the home to turn on/off lights, and mobile app control of the alarm). I do not have the Elk module for the ISY as I've been controlling the ELK via eKeypad app on my phone. I do not have the Elk plug-in for MobiLinc, as I've been controlling the Elk via eKeypad app on my phone. I've sort of left my whole system alone for the last couple of years with the automation and security parts seperate, and it's been fine. However, I'd like to take advantage of an Amazon Echo now, and not sure exactly what the best way is to have my ISY + Elk + Echo talking to each other. I'd like to keep eKeypad for the blueprint and alarm controls at the doors, and I assume that any changes to the Elk would flow through to show there too (for example, when I use the actual Elk keypad to arm/disarm, that also shows armed/disarmed in the eKeypad app, want to make sure that continues). I'd like to do the basics, "Alexa, turn on the family room lights", and have that turn on the lights, and update on the eKeypad app/blueprint showing they are on. I'd also like to say, "Alexa, turn on the alarm", and have the alarm armed (also updating/showing on eKeypad at the front door). What is the best/proper way to integrate my system so that I can utilize eKeypad at the front door (iPad mounted in wall), and MobiLinc on my phone (so that I can access home automation and alarm while out and about), while being able to utilize Echo in the home?? Should I purchase the Elk module for ISY and MobiLinc so that the Elk has control via MobiLinc, then purchase the Echo and set it up via the MobiLinc plugin so that essentially the Echo talks to MobiLinc which then talks to the ISY which then talks to the Elk and Insteon? Somewhere I was reading you couldn't have both the Echo and Elk plugins for MobiLinc so now I think my thought process is incorrect. Appreciate any help!

Looks like my thermostat went out (LuxPro), so purchased an Insteon 2441TH to replace it with since I'm running a bunch of Insteon along with an ISY994i. Just recevied it from Amazon (same day shipping), and on the inside there is a sticker that says: 2441TH V2.1 3515 I thought they were up to version 5 now? But could be wrong. In any case, can someone please let me know if this is the older problematic version, or if I "should" be ok? If it's the older one, it's definitely going back to Amazon tomorrow.

After a week of testing/watching/etc...all seems to be working as intended. Thanks for the help Paul! First time I've used a program to call-up another program. Thanks for the lesson.

Thanks. So the lights turn on as they should...but...they do not turn off after 2 minutes. They just stay on. Thoughts?

Thanks for the reply Paul. Going to try this now. Do you mind explaining what "control" does or is versus "status". My programs, and understanding of all of it is pretty basic, so I'm not sure what the difference is or why you would use one over the other. Thanks again.

I'm racking my brain trying to figure this out, but not coming up with a solution that works on all accounts, so hoping you folks can help. I had old garage door openers with I/O Lincs. The only programs were: 1.) If garage doors open after sunset, turn out 2 sets of lights inside the house. 2.) If garage doors are open more than 30 min, email and text me. (program "borrowed" from this forum) I have installed new Liftmaster 8500 jack shaft openers, and have them working great with the I/O Lincs. However, those new openers have a separate light fixture from the opener, that works off of a radio frequency from the openers. I don't want to clutter the garage ceiling any more than it is...so instead of using the garage opener lights, I would like to use the actual ceiling lights in the garage to turn on when the garage doors open. What I'm trying to accomplish (leaving old programs the same, adding new for below): 3.) If garage doors open, and the garage lights are OFF, then turn the garage lights ON. When the garage closes, wait 2 minutes, then turn the lights OFF. *Would like this to only work if the lights were OFF to begin with, and they were turned ON by the garage opening. If I'm already in the garage working (the lights are ON), I don't want the garage doors opening/closing to affect the lights at all. **There are 2 garage doors, labeled LEFT and RIGHT. Running into issues no matter how I program it. I'm pretty sure I have to use variables, just not sure how to get it going. With the program I have, it waits 2 minutes, turns them OFF. But if the garage door is still open, it turns them back on, waits 2 minutes, and turns them off....and repeats like this. How do I incorporate the door closing into this, and also how do I incorporate this only happening if 2 conditions are met (lights were OFF, door is opened)? Any help is appreciated!! I've messed around all morning with this and despite my wife walking by several times and telling me I'll figure it out eventually....it's not happening! Here's what I'm left with after stripping away a bunch of lines of things I thought would work. I 'think' this is the base starting point that I'm working off of. If Status 'Garage Lights' is Off And Status 'Garage Door - Left-Sensor' is On Or Status 'Garage Door - Right-Sensor' is On Then Set 'Garage Lights' On Wait 2 minutes Set 'Garage Lights' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Just wanted to add input here that I had two new Liftmaster 8500 units installed, and used my old I/O Lincs (which were soldered to a spare remote), wired directly into the 8500 motors, and it works great. I do have the non-LCD wall button/controller for the 8500's. When I first researched this after already buying the 8500's, I read a whole lot about how these are not compatible with the I/O Linc...but I guess it's the wall mount controller that dictates if these will work or not. With the normal non-LCD controller everything works nice just as it should. Thanks for all the help in this thread.

That's a great idea, thanks Teken. Unfortuantely I'm not going to be able to give it any time to troubleshoot this evening...so at this pont I'll leave it at 3:00 am and see what happens in the morning. I'll touch base here again tomorrow with an update. Thanks again.

Thanks. I've tried to query it, and I've hit "restore device" which I guess restored all of them tied together. Those were both done today. Wonder if that fixed it. Guess I'll have to wait until 3:00am to find out! Does anyone know what function exactly the CLEAR does/has?

3 nights ago, conveniently at 4am, our master bedroom smoke alarm went into low battery. Battery replaced, smoke alarm is quiet. I'm running several smoke alarms, tied to a smoke-bridge, and the ISY994i. (First Alert brand smoke/C02) I've got a program running to text/email me if one of the "all other" conditions are met (not smoke or carbon monoxide), such as low battery. I got the text and email at 4:23am just as it went into low battery, so it worked as it should of. However, now I'm getting that same text/email at 3:00am during the querry. I don't know what's wrong or how to reset this, or make it work properly. Anyone have any ideas how to stop this from happening at the 3:00 querry? The CLEAR function doesn't show ON or OFF for state. It's always empty, and that's why the program shows ON or OFF for that function, to register the text/email to be sent. At least that's why I think the program is written this way. It was done years ago so I cannot remember. Maybe this is my problem? If Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Clear' is On Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Clear' is Off Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Low Bat' is On Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Malfunction' is On Or Status 'Smoke Bridge-Smoke / Smoke Bridge-Unknown Message' is On Then Send Notification to 'Peter Cell' content 'Fire Alarm - All Other' Send Notification to 'Peter Email' content 'Fire Alarm - All Other' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Well folks, looks like we have success! In the switchbox, Switchlinc LINE to the blues, LOAD to the one orange which goes to the fixtures, neutral to neutrals, (no ground), capped the other two orange wires (travelers). In the defunct box. Removed both switches, capped all the wires individually. Will get a plate cover tomorrow, cut out the pegboard around this box, and we're done. Everything is in, some special organizing was necessary to make the Switchlinc fit, but we're all good to. Breaker is on, lights work. Now to add this new switch to the ISY and create some programs for them. Thanks to apostolakisl, stusviews, larryllix, mwester, oberke, paulbates, and algorithm for all of your help. And especially thanks to apostolakisl for walking me through these last few steps. It's awesome to have a great forum/resource like this to turn to.

Ok. I think we got it. The switch had 3 oranges. 1 went UP in the box, and 2 went out of the side. A blue also went UP, so figured that orange is the standout, and the likely wire to the fixtures. Connected that orange to the LOAD, the LINE to the blues, and the neutral to the new netruals. Breaker back ON, switch OFF, no volts on the orange at the fixture. Switch turned ON...120 volts! I think that means we have it. Going to re-wire the fixtures, cap everything in the defunct box, and the Switchlinc is already wired up. But...how the heck am I going to fit all these wires and the oversized switchlinc box back into this box. No idea. I'll report back once I have lights that turn on and off.

So I have neutrals in the switch boxes, in the fixture box, theres just an orange and a white (which are both hard wired to the light fixture). No separate neutrals capped together, like in the switch boxes. I assume this is how it should be? The white (neutral?) in the fixture box connects to the fixture. Sorry, still trying to learn all the lingo and what is found in what box. To date, my experience has been only with Switchlincs, the Garage Opener kit, and integrating smoke alarms (wireless). Nothing with actual fixtures yet...so don't know if just two wires (orange and white) is correct, or if there should be two wires and then some capped off neutrals in the box too (like in the switch boxes). I think that's a silly question...but just want to be sure. Doesn't take more than 2 minutes to ask and hopefully not burn down the house!

In the second example, you're saying to take one of the three orange wires, and connect it to the blues. Then test the fixture orange wire. If that wire shows voltage (hot)...then that would become the LOAD wire. Try the three orange wires one by one until I get HOT at the fixtures?

Yes, you understand correctly. It seems like the blues in the box are hots. So then splice in my LINE from the Switchlinc into the bundle of blues? As for the LOAD to the fixtures...I assume it's got to be one of the tow travelers I connect to? How do I determine which/what is the LOAD? And then what do I do with the wiring at the defunct box? Just disconnect and cap everything?

No other boxes we have looked at have a blue in it...except for one of the fixtures which has a blue come in the box and out of the box (passing through the box) but not connected to anything.

Or...would it just be easiest for me to pickup another Switchlinc, put one in both boxes, and wire accordingly for 2 Switchlincs in a "3-way" (controller / responder)? If that's the easiest route to go, I'd spend the $50 and be done. If it is, could someone explain how to wire that, and that's what I'll do? Or if Ohm'ing everything out is best, I'll do that.

Inside the switch box, there are a bunch of blues capped off together. Would this maybe be the HOT coming in, and then one of the splices runs out to that defunct box? If so, could I just take power from this group of capped blue wires for the HOT I need for the Switchlinc?

Earlier apostolakisl mentioned I needed to disconnect all the wires, including at the fixtures. Should I reconnect the fixtures and get another reading at the switches? The soon to be defunct switch had the blue wire, which was the only wire that read voltage. The switch which I would like to be the Switchlinc has all orange wires, all of which had 0 readings.

Sorry I could not get the #'s last night (late at work), but grabbed them this morning. Disconnected the wires at the fixtures, and disconnected the wires at the switches. Circuit breaker back on, this is what I get: Box #1 (Inside the house - will be Switchlinc). Has multiple wires in it. Several blues capped together, several whites capped together, several reds capped together. Switch: 3 Orange wires. All read 0 volts. Box # 2 (Soon to be Defunct / Remove Box). Just the orange wires, blue wire, and 1 white wire by itself not connected to anything (reads 0 volts). Switch: 2 orange wires. Both read 0 volts. 1 blue wire. Reads 120 volts. (connected to the black screw, then continues on to the single pole switch next to it). Light Fixtures: Orange wire reads 0 volts. White wire reads 0 volts. A couple of the fixtures have multiple orange and white wires, and a couple of them have a single white and single orange wire. One light fixture box has a blue wire that goes into the box, then back out of the box not connected to anything. The remainder of the boxes have no other wires in them. Pictures for reference. Thanks again for everyone's help!! *To mwester's earlier point. I am in the Chicago suburbs as well. House built in the early 1990's. No ground wire anywhere....just the conduit/boxes for grounding. **I put some electrical tape and/or duct tape on the wires as a reference to what wire is what so that I could put it back together the same way. Those pieces of tape were not there before. ***Pictures attached of Box 1, Box 2, Fixture Wiring, and Outside Fixture (the fixtures are fluorescent shop lights, which are hard wired to the fixture boxes). Sorry about the picture orientation. Doesn't matter how I orient them, the forum turns them when I upload them.

Sounds good. I'll report back with the readings later on today.

Thanks everyone for the replies and help. Unfortunately yesterday I got way more involved with cleaning out the attic than I had planned, and since I had some friends over helping we went into that project for the full day, and I was unable to look at this switch. Now that that is over... back to this switch. I'll grab the info some of you requested (voltage readings, etc), and report back this evening when I get home from work. Thanks again for everyones help! Really hoping we can figure this out!

Thanks Al. You're probably right. There is no light there...but maybe they planned for one and in the end it didn't work out? Or...they sided over the location of the "outdoor" box and who knows where it's at. We'll be re-doing the siding in the next year or so...so I guess we'll find out. Again, that one switch only has 1 wire coming into it...so don't think it actually operates anything.

Neutrals are good. I have no ground wires in any box (the boxes and conduit do the grounding, no ground wires anywhere). Having trouble finding the hot. Breaker ON, lights OFF. Box #1 has one wire with voltage (black screw), the two others have no voltage. Box #2 (inside the garage), has voltage going to two wires (the blue wire and one of the orange).

Thanks Paul. Yes, I don't actually want a 3-way configuration, so remove and cap is what I'm after. The two switches act as a 3-way, and they both turn the garage lights on/off. Yes, I have a voltmeter. 1. Yes, the black screw is the terminal where the blue wire is attached on the soon to be defunct switch (you called it gray but they're actually blue). The oranges are at the bottom, one on each side (pic attached). Just that one blue wire continues on to the miscellaneous switch, which has only that wire connected to it. Cannot figure out what that switch would operate. This box has 1 extra wire, which is white, and just taped over...not capped or connected to anything (nice huh?!). 2. Pic attached. There are whites (capped), blues (capped), reds (capped), and the yellow/black which go to the 2nd switch in the box (right switch). That switch operates as a 3 way for a light in the house. 3. Just the white, taped over wire. I do have a voltmeter. To clarify a little bit. Box #1 is the box inside the house. This has two switches (garage lights - left switch) and (inside foyer light - right switch). I'd like the left switch (garage lights) to become a Switchlinc, right switch (foyer light) stays as is. Box #2 was the switches behind the pegboard in the garage. This box has the "other" 3-way switch for the garage lights (right switch), and the single pole left switch with 1 wire connected and who knows what it operates. Both of these are not necessary switches as we've never used them, they're in the back corner of the garage, and I don't mind capping these completely and not using them at all. Thanks everyone for your help!! *No matter how I have the pictures rotated, when I upload them, the forum turns them sideways. Not sure how to correct that.