KHouse

Ok, so I'm working with these two switches. The switch with the all orange is the one I'd like to be a Switchlinc. The other pictures shows two switches, the right one being the 3-way switch that ties into the Switchlinc. How best/safest to make the 2nd switch inoperable, and make the 1st switch the only one that works (being a Switchlinc). Any correct way to do this? And to be compliant with code I'll cut out a square in the panel where the switches are on the wall. (It's pegboard with holes in it to add hangers and what not for tools).

Most (if not all) of the other switches in my home have multiple colors. Bunch of different colors used, the whites are always nuetrual though, and this one switch is wired weird in that it has all orange wires.

Forgot to answer...my house has white neutrals capped off in each of the boxes. I guess I don't know how to conclusively check that these are neutrals, but they are white, they do cap off inside each of the boxes, they are never connected to anything else, and all of my Switchlincs have worked fine for years using these "neutrals".

Found the other switch! We have a side door near the back corner of the garage that has enver been used, and we have paneling for tools screwed in around it. Figured there must be a switch near both doors...but honestly, had no clue that switch was there / couldn't remember that it was there as the panneling had been put up years ago. In any case, took part of it down, and found the switch right were it should have been. So....I guess now the question is: How do I properly wire this so that this 2nd switch does not work, and the first switch becomes an Insteon Switchlic and operates the garage lights. After this is all set, I'm going to put the panel back up and this 2nd switch wont be used ever. Thanks again for all the help. (the switch on the right is the 3-way switch, I have no clue what the switch on the left operates)

Thanks for the info. I've attached another pic, and lettered the wires for reference. I've confirmed the light switch powers the lights on (there's 5 ceiling lights in the garage) when the breaker is ON. When the breaker is flipped OFF, the switch does not power on the lights. With the breaker OFF, lights ON or OFF, I get 0 readings across all 3. With the breaker ON, lights OFF, I get 120V at C. 0 readings at A and B. With the breaker ON, lights ON, I get 120V at C and B (which is also the black screw). I'm also getting 13 or so at A. Thoughts? Thanks again!

Looking to get some help here. I've got a light switch right next to the door that leads from my house into the garage, which operates the garage ceiling lights. Been here 20 years, and as far as I know this is the only switch that powers the ceiling lights in the garage. However, as I go to replace this switch with an Insteon on/off switch, I find that it's a 3-way setup. This switch having the constant hot and 2 travelers (all 3 of which are orange colored wires). In any case, what would the proper setup be to connect my Insteon switch. I do not care if the "other" switch doesn't work any longer, as it is missing...but wanted to be sure I could safely wire this one switch having the 2 traverls and constant hot on this end. Thoughts or help? Any help is very much appreciated!! *I do not have access to any of the wiring on the other end as I do not know where the other end/switch is. **SECOND SWITCH WAS FOUND, PLEASE READ BELOW**

Forgot to attach the image. Here it is.

Maybe I'm overcomplicating this very simple program, but looking to see if someone can help me figure out the "responding" choice in the condition choices. I've checked the UDI wiki page (http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Main_Page) , and Googling ISY and responding pulls up thousands of results none of which address this as the word responding seems to pop-up in every ISY related post. I haven't done much to my automation in a while, so I'm forgetting some of the basics. Added one closet light this year, and now looking to add a LampLinc Dimmer plug-in module for our Christmas tree lights (really justing using it for on/off, not dimming). One of the programs I would like, is for the tree to simply turn-off if it is 11:00 pm. In my "programming" I'm looking to see: - If time is 11:00pm and Christmass Tree Lights is ON - Then turn Christmass Tree Lights to OFF. However, there's no option in the condition choices for ON. It's either RESPONDING, OFF, or a percentage. Is RESPONDING the same as ON? Also, should I even be checking the condition to see if it is on, or should I just do: If 11:00pm then turn Christmas Tree Lights to OFF? Does the responding have something to do with it being a dimmer module? I can only assume that RESPONDING is the same as ON but would like some confirmation. Screenshot below for reference. Additionally, and on a side note, I wanted to be clear on the LampLinc module. The LampLinc is just a ON/OFF module that allows dimming, and thus it's rated at 300W + lamps only, while the ON/OFF Module is rated at 1800W + anything can be plugged in. Amy I missing anything? Thanks for the help!

Thanks shannong. Exactly what I needed. I'll play around with it tonight and update. Hopefully all works as easy as it seems it should. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Working with the setting on water, and loop 1, I'm getting a zone trouble - water alarm when wet, and when I pull the sensor out of the water, the alarm goes off. Totally lost here and trying every combination possible! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've got the sensor setup with the wires, but when there's water on the screws, I get ready to arm. When no water is present, there's no "connection" so my system is Not Ready to Arm. (I've got this setup as Burglar 1/2 just for easy of seeing how/when it connects, does not connect). Essentially, it seems like it's working in reverse. I've got to be setting the setting up incorrectly. Anyone know the proper way to setup the settings?!

Hmmm...ok. So, with that said, how do I connect the unit together? I've tried having the magnet attached to the board (as in reading a closed door) and water on the wires, no luck. Works like normal, magnet on is good, magnet off sounds an immediate alarm. How do I connect the "1st and 2nd loops"? Any help is much appreciated! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And...now it seems after playing with this stuff the TELCO SEIZED and DIALER ACTIVE LED's are constantly lit on my M1. I've disabled the sensor I've been testing, and shut down/restarted the M1...but still the 2 LEDS are constant on. Anyone have any ideas about that? P.S...I'm not currently connected to the central station monitoring.

Shannong, can I pick your brain about this again? I got a few 5816 sensors, connected wire the two blue terminals (the block inside), and set the sensor to the Elk in ElkRP to be: Definition: Water Sensor (Also have tried burglar instant to get an instant alarm going) Type: 0 - EOL Hardwire/Wireless Supervision: 1 - Normal Supervision Loop: 1 If I put the magnet near it and take it away, I get an immediate alarm. If I place the two wires into water...nothing. I've tried different variations of Supervision and Loop and still get nothing with water on the wires. Am I missing something? Please help! Thanks.

Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see that now with the additional pics. Do you have a pic of where it's wired/soldered to the board? Thanks again!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! What are the screws connected to / touching inside the case? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, just for reference, here's a link to someone who used GE's crystal technology door/window sensor connected to a hobby boards leaf wetness sensor for the same result: http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/1641 ... omsearch=1

Shannong, would you mind sharing a picture of the inside of the 5816, with how you have the screws placed/connected? I'm very soon purchasing my Elk setup, having decided after much debate between GE and Honeywell to go with Honeywell for most sensors, for now anyway, and like the idea of using your setup for leak sensors (vs. the Insteon I have been now - luckily I've been slowly adding insteon so I didn't have too much invested in water sensors).

Ejh3 - maybe I missed this earlier in the thread, but what's the benefit to switching to the Elk to run the garage door? I'm currently running the 994i with the garage door I/O unit, but adding Elk for security soon. I'm going to put a door sensor on the entry door from the garage to the house...and not seeing a need to change from ISY to Elk controlling my garage doors. Please let me know if I'm missing an important feature as to why the Elk would be worth spending the $ on to control the garage doors!! (Also, a nice how-to would be great when/if you can get one together!!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to keep following up with this: I've not had any time to follow-up on the tips and recommendations to fix this from the posts above, but have however another failed notification. Last night when I came home from work by garage did the thing where it bottoms out, and then opens back up 1/4 of the way. I noticed it, and left it that way to see if I got the notification. I didn't. 7:05 is when I should have gotten the notifications (email + text), and 8:08 is when I manually closed the garage. Should have gotten notifications that the garage was open for 30 minutes, and then another once it was closed as confirmation. Here's the error log entries. Does this mean anything more to anyone? -50010 mail.universal-devices.com Mon 2014/03/17 07:05:51 PM System -50010 mail.universal-devices.com Mon 2014/03/17 08:08:09 PM System -50010 mail.universal-devices.com Mon 2014/03/17 08:08:15 PM System -50010 mail.universal-devices.com Tue 2014/03/18 06:52:09 AM System -100 [DHCP] state=RENEW P.S...I did receive my notification (text) that my sunset lights came on yesterday (Sunset being sometime around 6:59 pm).

That makes sense. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the question is: If the hot water line on a faucet breaks, will the entire hot water contents run out? If the cold line breaks, then it would continue running presumably until the whole house water is shut off. So...should you have an automatic shutoff valve on the hot water line right after the water heaters, as well as on the whole house main water line? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Teken. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been switching all the switches in my home (some to Insteon, some to new "dumb" switches). Seems that I have a neutral capped in each box. Thanks for the info folks. I'll be sure to have my electrician buddy read through this before we attack the 4 ways. I'm taking things just a few pieces at a time. Will try to have this 4 way deal switched out sometime in March/April, so will report back with how we did it for future reference.