larryllix

Thanks for the update Fred! Due to the Rh and Rc terminals connected together I assumed you were supplying the stat with 24vac. I had a stat like that way back and if the 24vac wasn't on the batteries would go dead every few months. The next thing, I would try, is a factory reset on the ioLink and then do an ISY restore on it to recover all the links back into it. Something is wrong with that ioLink as it acts like the Reverse option is on and this is a classic problem as you describe. BTW: Was that llama at the end of the street (StoneHouse) named after you?

See his screen shot that the Reversed option was not on. There may have been confusion there and he may have turned it off before the screenshot or possibly the options box did not update as some of mine have done until I clicked query. The symptoms fit the "Trigger Reverse" option nonsense it causes.

Thanks for chiming in here Brian. I was hoping. My concern is that 24vac control systems are usually common referenced to earth, and the internal circuits of the ioLink may also be. This puts live 24vac into the ioLink and/or may be causing some sensitive sensing jitter or component stress or burn out components. This would be mostly dependant on the internal coupling inside the ioLink. That is where your knowledge is usually invaluable.

I have never used the Auto function on a thermostat yet. The Heating and cooling would be coming on alternating style several times, every day, except in winter and a few days of the summer heat. I like my environment tightly controlled for comfort and that means a heat/cool differential of 0.5 degrees or less. The only solution I have seen for a thermostat being in Auto, is a huge delay between changing modes. To me this is the only algorithm that duplicates the human manual logic used, as closely as possible. Huge setpoint differences are not the answer and I may as well go back to cutting wood and throw another log or some coal on the fire to regulate my home temperature if a wide of temperatures is necessary. The wood or coal method would probably regulate temperatures more accurately. It would be very common to find my thermostat on with all the windows open to conserve energy in an attempt to lower the temperature before the stat cooling kicks in again. Thermal lag and thermal mass can sometimes be our enemy costly us energy to compensate for the combination. I hate sleeping in the heat and have paid dearly for it many times.

Add HA into the mix and a renegade app could activate a voice, to Alexa, to download more apps, or even tell other Alexii within hearing distance, to load another virus app. Oh Gawd! The beginning of Skynet!

OMG! We have the beginning of the first vocal viruses! "Alexa, install the virus"

Voltage indicators usually will not usually detect low voltages like 24vac on stats.

AFAIC I did not suggest a cure, maybe a temporary fix but not a real fix. From the OP I suspect the stat 24vac being connected to the live input of the ioLink, and both being ground referenced, then it may be bothering the ioLink causing it to act suspiciously. The ioLink wouldn't like that most likely. The 3:00 am, or any query, may report silly things and/or cause the problem to rear it's ugly head. The query is not the main problem, and the output not being programmed correctly probably isn't making a difference and may just be the ay it came from the factory. I am going to suggest to johnstonf that he see if his stat can run with the 24vac only connected to the Rc and C terminals and the IOLink connected to the Rh and W. If you have an ohmmeter check to see if the Rh and Rc are connected internally while the wires are off. Another suggestion is to factory reset the IOLink and do a restore and see what happens. Then check the options again and do a query while watching the options. IIRC I have seen options that not in synce with the devices. The whole thing wreaks of the "trigger reverse" being on and maybe not showing properly.

Are your fans actually turning off or is your ISY just reporting them as Off? You can try disabling your 3:00 am query program tonight, although tonight may be too cool to make it work and you will have to wait until Wednesday night.

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At three AM you probably have an ISY query going on. I am also guessing that you have the option "Reverse status" enabled in your IOLink input. The Reverse option should have never been created. When you query an IOLInk it sends back the real "unreversed" status from the contacts. Later when it reports in the reversed option changes it back again. Remove the "Reverse" option and rewrite your program logic to match.

It is all possible in v5. I have several programs that use the capability to save and restore levels after "borrowing" lights for other purposes. This is useful for flashing light alarms.

Scenes are like presets on your car radio. You set them and then use them. You don't press two and try to get a station between them. I have about 6 difference scene levels for my Gathering Room lights. I don't need every percentage of level, or to adjust 15 lights each time. I have FullOn, Bright, Reading, TV, Movie, and Off. For all Alexa controls I operate programs, that operate scenes. For the Off scene I control a program using the Else section to operate the scene. I named the program All Lights. Alexa....turn off All Lights!

Here is a shot from one of my scenes. Note you adjust levels in the scene, not the devices under it. If you don't see the "Apply changes to all devices" option, you are not in the right place to make scene adjustments. All devices, including ISY, manually and programmatically, operating this scene, get the same levels used, every time the scene is operated. They are all operating the same preset in the devices not inside ISY. ISY just makes it easy to preset the values in your lightswitches.

Welcome to the forum and the ISY world!!

Here is a scene level changer I posted some time back in another thread. ----------------------------------------- MBR Lamp Level.adjust If From 10:30:00PM To 9:30:00AM (next day) Then In Scene 'Master Bedroom / Motion.MBR' Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' 15% (On Level) Else In Scene 'Master Bedroom / Motion.MBR' Set 'Master Bedroom / MBR Wall Lamp' 70% (On Level) ----------------------------------------- Note how the Blue highlighted "scene"" is not actually a scene at all but is on the scene pulldown menu. When the scene is activated the level in the scene is effective for the devices it controls. When you adjust your levels in your scenes, manually, make sure you are adjusting the scene levels, at the top of the scene and not the device levels under the scene container on the next lexical level.

I use one notification to write the column headers each month for a new file. I use another notification to write the data to the same file each time a variable changes. I use mwareman's script and some plug-ins to view the data on a chart. I have discovered a lot of flaws in my HVAC system using these methods.

Did you set the scene up using ISY? If so just access the scene and change the On level or do it in a program.

You can do that right at the switch by dimming it. It then remembers the On level next time you use On or you can tap it a second time to override that level. For automatic setting use the programs as above responders suggested. Welcome to ISY and the forum! Keep asking.

I had a problem like that with factory resetting my ISY. You may have changed your registered email address with UDI and you are now locked out sending help to the wrong email address. You would have to remember your old email address and password to get in, and then update both. or Contact support and have them completely reset your account to your new email address.

ANOTHER UPDATE: A TV program turned on Alexa tonight with the words "The legs are" (English accent). We backed the show up and repeated half a dozen times and Alexa responded every time with confusion. After that, I placed the Echo on top of the offending speakers and it works much better. I can talk to Alexa successfully with the TV on but needing a bit of a raised level of speech while deep TV show background music is playing, even a very low volume levels. It seems the Echo is very sensitive to bass frequencies and my TV speakers produce a lot of deep bass. Turning the bass tone down on the amp has helped slightly, also. More moving around and sound tailoring is coming, yet.

The app already displays every word that is spoken as it understands it, if you can get it's attention. When this happens badly, it doesn't understand it's own name to get it listening. Good idea though. This could help by getting it at the fringe reception zone and then experimenting.

I need to inhale more chemtrail so I can forget this whole thing. I have forgotten who started it now.

Doesn't Zwave "being instantaneous" only mean certain brands, that report updates, and then the cost of Zwave switches is higher than Insteon switches?

My Echo is on the top of a bookshelf type desk topper and a few feet from the ceiling. My first thought was talking up to it and also sound waves resonating between the cabinet top and the ceiling but I brought down to the desk surface and it is only slightly better.