larryllix

Wow! I thought my Switchlincs could do a decimal shift multiplication function. I guess x10 means something else. From the Swichlinc manual --------------------------------------------------- Remove X10 Address 1) Press and hold Set button until it beeps LED will start blinking green 2) Press and hold Set button until it beeps LED will start blinking red 3) Send the X10 address 3 times (with or without commands) SwitchLinc will double-beep and LED will stop blinking 5) Test by sending X10 on and off commands SwitchLinc will no longer respond

Let me repeat that! I just looked at the photo.

Then a reader gadget has to go on the float indicator for crude levels that will not see change, replace the float indicator completely, drill a hole into the tank and mount another sensor in the hole. What it sounds like you really want is a flow sensor in the supply tube, from the tank, or just time your furnace running motor.

You removed the wires at the fixtures nullifying the purpose of the testing at the switch wires. Since the "Soon to be defunct" switch wiring was all dead I conclude you have the 3way switches in the neutral and more rewiring will be necessary to make a SwitchLinc work. The feed to the light string will have to be found.

How about some pressure gauge sensor under a leg?

No.The IoLinc should go across emitter and collector. The speaker should go across from emitter to base but the base needs a resistor in series with it or you'll burn out the transistor base emitter junction. The emitter should be common. Transistors are current devices and need to have a resistor to limit the current. say about 1K. YMMV

We monitored liquid levels with Nivotube sensors. Very expensive for home usage with it's analogue complete range reporting. Maybe you just want a float switch that install in place of the tank float indicator to indicate a single level.

I run all my 11 coloured light strings and bulbs off one SwitchLinc dimmer and ISY as well as the other SwitchLinc controlled ceiling light sets and ceiling and lamp Hue bulbs. about 17 parts in total. The main Switchlinc does it's bulbs and all the rest join in, ramping together. I have Christmas coloured themes, Easter, Halloween, TV watching (random colours), and the seven basic colours, combined with dimming and ceiling lights all in scenes. Wife likes them now and knows how to change colours and dim them all from the same switch. On dull days we use the double tap up to turn them all on 100% and the room looks like an operating room table with about 200 Watts of white LED light. Sure helps the dull day blues we get here on this foggy mountain.

Not a problem. I assume you are talking an Insteon MS?

I use the MiLight system with these strips. They are cheap and give really good light and easy to control from ISY or the hand controller that comes with the system. Make sure to get the RGBWW strips. I had several RGBW and once I saw the RGBWW strips I replaced all of the RGBW ones I had installed. About 3300K and nice working light. No Insteon dimmers required. You could use a SwitchLinc switch though but wouldn't need to. The strips come in various waterproofing styles. These (IP67) have a silicone case around them. There are also encapsulated styles and bare. You will regret the bare first time you have to wipe them clean. Look for the SMD5050 designation for any of the case styles. 5metre strips come with a connector on each end. I cut my in two pieces and threw the mid section away. I haven't found a way to put new pins on the left over pieces. Don't get the snap on connectors...they don't work because the pins are spaced wrong for LED strips and they all know it but still sell them for these. I have a bag of them = garbage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-5M-RGBWW-RGB-Warm-White-IP67-Waterproof-5050-300-LEDS-Strip-DC-12V-/322105912828?hash=item4aff022dfc:g:pkUAAOSwu1VW6d8b This takes a 12v 3-5amp power supply with a 2.1 x 5.1 mm DC plug on it, Get the two wire plug. I had to cut all the ground wires off my first bunch. They dpn't go into extension cords and power bars well. It's an all plastic case anyway. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-12-Volt-DC-Power-Supply-5-Amp-5A-12V-Adapter-LCD-CB-/280869637201?hash=item4165228c51:g:riMAAOxyMxpRx6fJ a strip controller for each LED section and a central WiFi bridge by your router or anywhere http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-2-4G-LED-RGBW-Controller-WiFi-iOS-Android-APP-MiLight-for-strip-light-/222068569322?var=&hash=item33b45174ea:m:mlMSh2MK0Hhd_89PHakpQKQ I used these silicone clips to hang them underneath things. Adhesive just falls off the first time you heat them up. They are transparent. IIRC SmichaelJ (HuddaDudda) got some hard track for them that may be easier and more expensive to put up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pc-12mm-Silicone-Holder-Clip-For-Fixing-3528-5050-5630-RGB-LED-strip-Light-/351706042877?hash=item51e35051fd:g:zQUAAOSw8RJXDLA5 I connected them with this adapter from the controller to the strip. Note NOT 4 pin!! I got white cable units but didn't find them quickly. The pins are double ended plain pins so female is not an order time worry. Get all male if available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-100-Set-5-PIN-Connector-Cable-Cord-for-3528-5050-RGBW-RGB-WW-LED-Strip-Light-/221490092631?var=&hash=item3391d69a57:m:mwk1T8abkNDmalVv_bhmoqQ These bulbs match the colour and use the same WiFi bridge unit. They come in 6 watt and 9 watt. get the 9 watt for the brilliance. Nice light! http://www.ebay.com/itm/E27-Milight-2-4G-6W-9W-RGBW-White-LED-Bulb-Group-RF-Remote-WIFI-Controller-/231637306974?var=&hash=item35eea8ce5e:m:mVUKHbQjiQdP5YPmIS-67og BTW: One WiFi bridge can only control four groups of bulbs/strips each. I use two controllers for 11 different LED strips/bulbs. Some share the same group address and there is no limit to how many per group address. You will need the network module or RPi gadget to control them. I have drivers written on RPi but don't know how to hook them to ISY yet. I can show you how to create the udp packets in about 5 minutes. They are so easy. Note: there is no blending to make pastels but after using these and Hue I am over that fantasy and couldn't care less about that. You want glowing rich colours or real good working white with excellent dimming and tone. These have that. Oh and they won't come on in the middle of the night when the power blinks like Hue bulbs do. They remember where they were left.

I was referring to this statement you made "Anyway I realized that the wall controller only has 2 wires going to it and there are 2 lit buttons (door and light). Wall Console - Series II Model: GWC-2 Part #: 35661R" and all the comments I made were about the wall control. The lights in the Operator mechanism are not related to the wall control. They run off the operator mechanism.

Press your GDO operate button on the wall unit and see if the lights go out. If it does, and there are only two wires, then you just shorted the wires out to operate, and it should be just a contact with trickle current stealing lamp, same as a lit doorbell button. The lock button is a switchthat opens the circuit so the button can't short out the wires. Ohh...and don't forget to adjust that screw on the back end that controls the amount of pressure before it reverses for safety sake.

Maybe you will find that it isn't really happening and somebody else "controls the Vertical and Horizontal Best until then.

The sensing current from the IOLinc will pull the speaker cone one way, permanently, and may eventually damage the speaker or the output transformer, if it has one. I doubt this will work into a IOLinc. It may not take the negative voltage thrown at it.

Well we know it is related for sure. Now why the 3:33 later. Need to check the program summary again to see if you can identify a program that ran. Somewhere in the admin console there is a place that show the last time a device changed, maybe? That may have been variables. Did you ever try looking at the link tables for those two misbehaving devices? Then do a compare with ISYs link tables to see if they match. Perhaps they are falsely linked to something else.

In this case I believe there is no reason not to combine the programs. Usually two programs are required when there are conditions we don't want to stop the programs line, no matter what. If trigger stimuli, Then run program2 Program2: (disabled) If 'another condition we want to test but not ever stop execution' Then 'don't stop code lines' This is common with time frames where we don't want the end time to stop Then in the middle. --------------------------------- Anther case is where we want to check for a specific sequence of events. We don't want the program2 running unless the dryer is started first. If Dryer is On, Then Wait 4 minutes, Enable Program2 Program2:(disabled) If Dryer is Off, Then Notify Wife 'Get clothes out now!', DIsable self again ------------------------------- So this should work If Elk Zone 'Side Gate (Dog)' is Violated And Elk Zone 'Side Gate (Dog)' is not Normal And Elk Area 'HOUSE' 'Armed State' is Disarmed And Elk Area 'HOUSE' 'Armed State' is not Disarmed Then Send Notification to 'Pushover' content 'Side Gate Notification' Repeat for 9999 times <---double repeat corrected Set Elk Speak Word 'Front' Set Elk Speak Word 'Side' Set Elk Speak Word 'Gate' Set Elk Speak Word 'Open' Wait 10 seconds Else -----

I get one until the delivery notice is sent and then cancel it to avoid the $120 per year. I don't know how stupid, us, as shoppers have to be, paying to allow us to give our money to a store? It works for Costco and many other stores but really shouldn't. I believe with Costco it is some legal thing to pretend to be selling wholesale and get their bigger profits.

See you at 9:30.

You should be able to simplify the first two programs into one simpler one. Then add the Run Program(If) line suggested by KeviNH above to restart the disabled sequence again. Garage Man Door left open - [iD 0054][Parent 0050] If Status 'Garage Small Door-Opened' is On <---off will run Else and stop Then And Status 'Garage Small Door-Opened' is not Off <---not required for status Then Wait 1 minutes 30 seconds Repeat for 9999 times Wait 30 seconds Send Notification to 'email' content 'Garage man door left open' Send Notification to 'Pushover' content 'Garage man door left open' Else ----- It runs the If and depending on the outcome runs the Then or the Else section of code.

Definitely all possible. We used thinwall or flex, as ground, a long time ago, though. It had to be run with metal studs for some time. The colours could definitely be nice to identify wire usage and he stated there was conduit and if the price was right? We'll see if the neutral is blue though.

On the fancy high-powered pig amp. Stu is playing Ew I need my mo - dem, 'cause it's time was due. Hope you send it Sunday, My house is manual too. Pack it! Send it! Drone it! Drop it! Ain't got nothin' but Z-wave Eight days a week!

Thanks Michel! After monitoring it for a few weeks I have substituted it into my official outdoor temperature now. It works well and cuts one sensor out of the formula when the sub shines intensely as it gets affected. If one ever fails things should just carry on without it.

Look at the conductor colours. Somebody brought home control cable from an industrial job and wired their own house. Whether the switches are wired into the neutral is about to be established. Stu told him to take the wires off for a retest.

Note: the box you are working in may contain wiring from another circuit breaker and should not be connected to other than the bare ground conductors. You would be mixing up circuit feeds and could result in problems or dangers later. These wires may still be alive the whole time you have your circuit breaker turned off. In the 'soon to be defunct" switch box...we'll call that the "remote box" At the remote box, there must be a third orange wire coming in and connected to another wire/cable. That will be your lights/load. Keep it connected together. If this is not so then do not proceed further. More information is required. At the SWL box, this wire should be connected to the black screw on the switchlinc box end switch. Transfer that wire to the SwitchLinc red wire. In the same cable going to your lights/load (above) there should be another wire (hopefully white) connected to the incoming neutral wire. This needs to have one of the oranges attached to it, marked with white tape at both ends and connected to the SwitchLinc white at its box. The blue wire at the remote box end is your hot wire and needs to be connected to the last orange wire going to the switchlinc and connected to the switchlinc black. This should isolate the old switch. Your remote devices should now be completely free of wires. Pull the gapping tab out on the switchlinc and position the switchlinc so you can poke the ohmmeter into to the cap on the switchlinc white wire to ground on the box. Repeat this with the switchlinc black wire to ground. If you read close to zero ohms on the white and much higher on the black wire all should be good. If they are reversed you need to reverse the two white and black wires to the orange wires. Don't forget to transfer the white tape! Before turning this on Perhaps Stu could put his two cents worth in here as he is more experienced at this and may be able to see a flaw or a better method. I am concerned the feed has not been disclosed yet (first instruction) and there may be a safer way to reveal the wiring structure. EDIT: Looking at your pictures again, reading about your voltmeter reading hot at the black screw of the switch, and seeing no other wiring in the remote box... ....this appears somebody has thrown a three way switching arrangement into the neutral of this lighting circuit. This is not going to be according safety code from any method I can figure out, as yet.

Move your nightly query to 4:00 AM.