larryllix

With an ISY I have never needed to press any link buttons, except for battery devices, to link them to ISY. Those instructions are for linking without an ISY as provided by SmartHome. Just supply the Insteon three byte address.

Does the camera app not use a common IP address/URL for the lot of the cameras? Should have been a change one IP Address:Port and done? Does each cam have a custom IP:Port that needed to be individually setup?

Same with the girls sometimes. Sometimes the dimbulbs are cheaper. Some of the brighter ones do cost more. Some are high maintenance. I picked up one with the rounder bottoms back in the early 70s and she still lights up well when I throw the stitch. Teken. Not nice to spit coffee on your keyboard.

Looks like you have it. We will be expecting big things from your kichen in the future!

Posts can be deleted easily.

As per Stu above and another way to look at is. Disable/Enable applies to triggers only, not the execution. Program 2 doesn't have any triggers and a disabled program is the place to use conditions when trigger interference is not desired in that program. This is commonly used for time frames and State variables when the trigger could upset a running program and they are only wanted for their filter condition value. Having said all that, if you disable a program while it is running it will stop it at the next Wait or Repeat line. Making sense?

I am convinced if all Cree bulb reviews were done after 6 months of ownership nobody would be buying them anymore. I have a about a dozen CREE bulbs and they were all great at the beginning. I have one dead one, two that flicker badly with dimming, one that doesn't match the rest in the chandelier now (dims on a different curve), a BR40 bulb$$$ that flick completely out, occasionally, now replaced with another brand., and a another PAR38 that just doesn't work occasionally. IMHO, CREE bulbs have the same problem the PLMs have, cheap filter capacitors on their power supplies. Works great until the receipt is thrown out. I guess I need to get my ship together and call them. I buy mostly the cheap brands now and have no problems but they are always rated "dimmable".

I apologise if this is not exactly what you are asking for without fully understanding your code. Use the "don't trigger me until I let you" approach. Program 1 [enabled] If whatever Then Run Program 2 (If) Else -- Program 2 [disabled] If non-triggerable conditions Then Disable program 1 Do something WAIT a long time, <---Program 1 can't touch us Do something else Enable Program 1 Else Do the negative conditions

The only thing I could think to make this happen is a burned out memory bit in the device in question. To prove this, you could try... -remove the device from the scene causing the problem. -create a new dummy scene -add the device in question into the dummy scene -add the device back into the scene in question -never use the dummy scene This may occupy the defective memory space in the device with the dummy scene link. Then the used scene would occupy a new byte or memory location. It would be worth the experiment and the warning that your device's eeprom memory is failing and shopping time.

There is nothing to trigger your program except the temperature changing. Something has to call the attention of the ISY engine and that would be a temperature change. Then your logic will be evaluated and run the appropriate Then or Else. IOW: If the temperature never changes after you save your program, or ISY boots up, your program will never run.

See Stu's answer above. However, ISY must see this change via all the mechanisms to get there and... ISY must not think the stat is in Off mode when it powers up or the first time the program will be triggered is when the stat sends something other than Off. Querying the stat does not trigger a program unless it causes something to change that is being used as a trigger in that program. If querying the stat causes a status change then ISY is out of sync due to nothing changed since it powered up or signals have been missed due to comm failures. Of course once ISY is up to speed and in sync with your stat then the program works just fine, with good comms. Querying the stat after ISY power up is a good idea to get sync'ed.

Again, if ISY does not see a mode change the program will never run. There is no trigger, without a working thermostat, with a working comm channe to ISY,l and an ISY that knows the thermostat was in the Heat mode in the first place. Simply put with one scenario: If you reboot your ISY and the stat is not in Heat mode the program will never run to see/change it. You also need some other triggers to initiate status testing or the program may never run. You can query the Insteon thermostats 100 times and the program will not run.

Back a few posts you stated "I reread your post... My ISY program isn't looking for a state change. It's looking for them to be specifically on heat mode and if not heat, then set heat." ...which contradicts the later statement you made "check for state changes". I just wanted make sure you understood how the triggers work, coming from a linear code life, and not familiar with event driven software, maybe? Drives some old programmers crazy at first. This only works if ISY sees a change in status, comms are good and working, and doesn't wake up with stat already in that mode. Something has to make your program run and depending on the trigger, you are monitoring for failure, to trigger the same signal you are monitoring may not be the best thing. For your purposes, right now, I understand this is only a watch and correct situation, software, and is working to identify some problem irritating you. Does your thermostats have an Idle mode or waiting mode, based on a short cycle elimination setting? My T7900 has a state called Lockout, a misnomer, but if the stat calls for heat and the cycle is too short it throws out a Lockout status instead of Heat until the timing allows a Heat call again. This can mess with Heat detection programs and I learned the hard way for a bit,

There may be some of the problem too. What causes your programs to check for a state change?

Have you consider what happens if the power fails to both stat and ISY? Stat wakes up and sets mode to Off. ISY wakes up and no status changes from anything it is aware of = no need to change anything. ...ooops. Ice Age.

The two ISY thing is on the slate for UDI in the future IIRC. Something I thought while out blowing snow... Maybe your thermostats are set to off initially as they boot up and then reset themselves to the last known mode (Heat). Maye a longer Wait before sampling the mode again may yield some different results. Perhaps just a series of notifications based on mode changes to monitor what the stats do in the few say...10 minutes or so. But I realise you have been in logical processes for years and probably have already thought of that idea.....maybe? AS an aside. While I was away for months last year my stats were all set at 10 degrees C (50F) and that worked until I was on a cruise in the Carribe and my house temp started to rise back to normal living temps. I got notifications from ISY etc... but could not do anything about it. After some long logical sleuthing I figured out these $3-4K worth of thermostats set themselves back to Home mode after a power failure. This would similar to what you are experiencing and a good lesson to us all to test out smart stats to see what they do after a power failure. How stupid can these companies be. We buy basic electronics for high prices to monitor and keep our houses at a set temperature. So much emphasis is put on smart, communication, schedules, phoney money saving schemes and yet they can't remember what they were doing after a power failure.....duh! I am hearing about people with the Nests cannot block firmware upgrades and some fail locking the stat off. There's the poor bast... has all the bells and whistles and can't control the thing when actually needed. *SIGH*. mwester is right on about this. Makes me laugh about the old trick I heard in a Fla hot tub one night, is the thermostat trick. You take an old mechanical thermostat and put a resistor in series with it across your Mountain summer resort phone line. Every couple of days, you call the phone and if it rings...heat is OK. If the line is busy, your thermostat has closed it's contacts, and you need to call a service person.

I have a gas oven that depends on some high-tech electronics to control the gas valve. I have a tankless NG water heater that depends on more high-tech electronics than any Insteon thermostat I don't want to come home to a block of bits and pieces where my house was previously. In reality this is not likely to happen and either is his house freezing, like the staged, exaggeration scenario picture, he linked to. If he lived above the Arctic Circle I could see worrying about it happening. Not likely where he is unless he is absent for the whole winter without somebody performing the necessary insurance check every few days. The OP has been given a good backup safeguards by yourself . His OP and main concern, here, is how to trust the ISY equipment he has. Even if he installed a mechanical thermostat his high-tech high-efficiency furnace ignitor could fail and his house get really cold. More high tech dependency? It isn't going away in your manual shifted car. Should he now get a wood stove that he can depend on? Maybe the answer is to monitor the easy fail equipment with more equipment. Maybe he should purchase a HA box to send him notifications, if this happens so he can rush home or call a neighbour to investigate. ohhhh.wait.....! He already has an ISY. However, it sounds like the Insteon thermostats are too junky to depend on, for me too. Four separate heating systems may help but restoring from a power outage on Off setting is unforgiveable. Need ISY notifications working. Power outages are hard to handle but the POCO knows your house isn't going to freeze 'cause you won't let it. Ask the St. Lawrence River survivors without electricity for 3-4 weeks. The military boys ate a lot of surplus steaks on the BBQ, though.

See post 21

This sound like the query gives glitches in the status. Why are you querying these devices on a regular basis? I only have 2441ZTH units so there is never a point in querying them. I don't know about the 2441TH units. Stu is more the expert on those.

That didn't happen in one night and not likely within a week either. My house took almost two weeks to drop to 10c in Ontario last February, when it was -15 to -20 every day. To get down to 0c inside may never happen, if the sun shines on the house during the day. The house has insulation between the studs as you can see the wooden studs leaked the heat outside faster than the pockets between the studs.

How are you getting these stat statuses into ISY? Are they Insteon thermostats? 2441TH units?

Right. I guess I only link in controlling devices that cannot produce an Off like MSes. The rest of my scenes are run by programs triggers by devices. If the KPL can only produce On commands this shouldn't be a problem. ISY could act as a toggle to use a program initiated ramp off scene. If KPL button is switched On AND Light is not Off Then set 'Ramp Off scene' On Else ---

Yeah, as per KeviNH, above, I would try a few second wait in each. Your power may be glitching and sending Heat off commands or you have a defective thermostat but your programs aren't generating false alarms.

Sorry. It takes three hours to raise the house one degree C. I have a 180,000 BTU/hr tamkless water heater that runs in floor hydronic in the basement and n air handler with coil but I only run 60c water and it isn't very high BTU output from the air handler. I lower my stats 2 degrees C at night and it takes 6 hours to get it back each day. My MBR runs cooler so that helps with not as much setback to sleep.

@MWareman Not a bad idea! I have begun to not worry about my home freezing. After setting my house temp back to 10 C last January I watched it take almost two weeks before the temp dropped that far in Feb 2015. Yeah it went to freezing in Orlando are at that time too and it was -20C here in Ontario. When building my home I had an open attic and my basement didn't freeze water on the ground inside despite -20 C for a week. After two weeks a thin film of ice formed and the melted the next day. The house was fully insulated in the walls at that time. We get very little sun in the winter and there was no heat available. I have no plumbing in outside wall, though. I now have an On/Off module running a small heater in the utility room set at 5C for an emergency long term failure of my heating. It also acts as a repeater for Insteon signals, being in the elbow of our L shaped house. With all this thermal mass and insulation my house take 3 hours to raise the temperature 3 degrees though. This is a PITA if I get home and the temp is really low. We have to sleep with an electric blanket for at least one night and wear heavy clothing for the next day. If you have an insulated home the freezing risk is minimal for less than a week of heating failure unless you have pipes in the outside walls.