larryllix

Following power outages ISY will have lost the temperature also until the 2441xTH reports a temperature change. Inside a home environment with regulated temperatures this could be a long time. BTW; ISY can set the time on a Insteon 2441ZTH thermostat.

Definitely confusing and others don't like it but where else could you put it?

LOL. Awesome! Reminds me of the silly vehicle steering wheel locks. One TV show hired a thief to crack one and despite all the warnings about it being hardened kryptonite steel, the thief just cut the steering wheel with a hacksaw in about 25 seconds and slid the useless gadget off.

Some of this reminds me of the security people trying to upsell you on fancy locks. The deadbolt was pushed to the public as the only lock to have on your door, being so sturdy without a tongue pickable by a banana knife or even credit card. Then some donkey thought of ways to defeat these miracles being pushed, by just breaking the sidelite window and turning the knob. Then came the deadbolt without a handle that couldn't be beat so easily from either side. Now the user can't leave of his/her own home, so a spare set of keys hang in the deadbolt lock on the inside, for convenient usage, when leaving the home. Looks really decorative too and it doesn't take a guest much time to make an impression of the key for duplication while you hang up her coat. The result? You should change all your locks every five years and every time we move. The saga continues. A new market is born. We think that some thief can sit outside our home watching and decrypting our Insteon signals, getting full access to our ISY, maybe and yet he/she can't figure out how to beat a geofencing programme or other algorithm? In the end we do our best to keep the teenagers out and we buy insurance. A simple double click or Off On Mini Remote sequence and lots of "This home is protected" stickers will do that one. Not having things, worth the hassle of stealing, in the house keeps the professionals out. Fancy gadgets won't.

The noise is not a positive or a positive indicator. The real and easy way is to just unplug everything check to see if the problem ges away and then start adding things back in with testing after each add. I sure hope your CREE bulbs aren't the culprit. I haven't had problems with mine, that I know of. I had one 60w equiv Cree go bad in a chandelier of 5and had it replaced a HD. Unfortunately they brought in the vented style at all store now and they do not dim on the same curve, especially at the bottom "off" end of the curve. The vented bulb style is also much larger and I would be sure after sucking in dust for a few years may be a planned burnout feature. What are all these LED bulbs companies going to do after producing bulbs that never burn out and they are installed everywhere? It wouldn't be the first time the big light bulb companies conspired to make bulbs that didn't last long.

I don't think the Mini Remote would give you enough distance to work nicely. You would have to pull into the driveway and press the button while stopped outside the door and wait for it to open, instead of having it open while coming up the street and being open when you get there. Unless you have a lamppost you could put an access point into. You could also use a sequence to encrypt the command, somewhat, B off, then A Fast On, or twice.

LEDs can be worse with their switching power supplies. CFLs only need a starter circuit. Most of my LEDs seem good now but some of the earlier cheaper units I had to toss. Not due to interference but visual flickering and noise.

I was told a few times. I learned the hard way many times and want to repeat it again. Factory Reset every Insteon piece of hardware before attempting linking to your ISY! I have had modules that do weird things are not even possible in normal usage. It makes one suspect there is only one Insteon EPROM, and one piece of firmware, in Insteon units and it has specific options factory selected for each device,

I have one KPL and use one scene from the MS to direct connect via a scene to the KPL load lights. For the keys A,B,C,D I do not use scenes but only programs. This depends on whether you want to do logic with to symbols and how fast you need a response. I use my keypad buttons for combination sequences. For manually operated switches and buttons controlling lights with a ramp on delay or a fan speed the small ISY program delay is never noticed. For a MS, with responding light, the ISY program delay is unforgivable IMHO.

Yup Stu is correct. I use my cell phone charger plugs to charge them. I was thinking of another unit I charge occasionally. Apologies and thanks Stu for catching that.

My garage door opener batteries have gone for about six years so far but use a bunch of CR1632 and another size cell. My mini remote has a hard time with 40 feet through a brick exterior wall to a SwitchLinc. This is dependent on which angle I hold it on so I know it is marginal from my firepit to the front door Swichlinc. The batteries in the miniremote are rechargeable and with very occasional usage, maybe twice per week, they last about six months. A micro USB is used to recharge it via a standard USB adapter. Edit: "mini USB" was corrected to "micro USB"

There is nothing to activate the scene in your program, only light level adjustments. I assume the scenes contain the SwitchLinc and KPL buttons as controllers in the scenes. What doesn't work?

On the SwitchLinc Dimmers this is a Fade Up or Brighten command signal and you can use that in programs to operate more stuff. I have no ToggleLincs but I would imagine the same thing applies to it. Add an extra line in your programs to catch the operator error (both signals styles) and function the same unless you split out the "style of flick". Do the same for Off and Dim in those programs.

According to the Quickstart Guide . "Quick Start Guide ToggleLinc™ Relay – INSTEON® Remote Control On/Off Switch (Non-Dimming) Model: 2466S, (15Amps) Rev 5.0+ Your new ToggleLinc On/Off Switch allows you to dim and remotely control any light in your home at the touch of a button" I would think they used the same smarts as the 2466DW and changed the triac to a relay.. ISY my not support the signals it can send out though.

On the SwitchLinc Dimmers this is a Fade Up or Brighten command signal and you can use that in programs to operate more stuff. I have no ToggleLincs but I would imagine the same thing applies to it. Add an extra line in your programs to catch the operator error (both signals styles) and function the same unless you split out the "style of flick". Do the same for Off and Dim in those programs.

When the winged warriors came out it was so much better. You can start them fast with a finger twisting spin, right on the tip, to capture the wires, you so painfully made even lengths, and then you can twist right into the insulation with little effort. You just hoped you didn't have to untwist those after the linesman pliers were on them. Some got some bad burrs. Just to reminisce, how about the old Marr connectors and trying to get all the tips lined up while you performed accidental surgery on your wrist when the slotted screwdriver slipped out of the slot up your wrist? Then you put the cap on and it usually fell off later.

I thought of this later, not to confuse you ay more though. here is how I like to do this. This is for the purpose of the view in Admin Console so you know at a glance by colour what the program is doing. MBath-SS-Syncrolinc - [iD 004A][Parent 0068] If Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is switched On And Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is not switched Off Then Wait 15 seconds Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' On Wait 1 hour Run program (else) MBath-SS-Syncrolinc Else Wait 10 minutes Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' Off Edit: correct to 'else'

Fabulous! Shower on dude!

These sound really handy and more secure when you have more than three conductors in one connector. For two or three conductors and probably price I think I would still prefer my nuts twisted even if it does cause some bruising on my wire around the joint.

You should be able to see the button status update in the device page in the Admin Console. I don't add my remotes to the scenes. I use a program to operate the scene devices from the mini Remotes though. I add them to SwitchLinc programs so they clone all the actions available from a SwitchLinc Dimmer. So far, I have 8 different scene that operate from one SwitchLinc Dimmer and mini Remote all from one button/paddle. Off = all off Fast Off = whites off,coloured lights on then rotate through colour schemes Dim = low whites and preset colour scheme around rook perimeter Brighten = bright whites On = TV mode then toggle with Reading modes. Fast On = Whites on full and coloured on full white toggled with just perimeter coloured on full white. If Control from SwitchLinc Dimmer is On OR Control from Remote.A is On Then turn scene.Reading On Else -- Repeat program for each different scene.

Years ago I had a home wired with aluminum conductor and the electrician used the push in self snagging receptacles. I had one burn my wife's hand once. The short sub is really hard to splice. Since then we have learned a lot about aluminum wiring but those self-snagging connections still make me nervous and I am a little wary of these types. I assume these have a larger saddle contact area in them to be more recently approved.

If they are approved for use in your country then use them. I still like the wire-nuts and believe they give a better and faster connection, especially with the wings on them.

I don't see any CULUS or CSA on the package. I assume this is listed somewhere.

Need that Else invoking phrase. If Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is On AND Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is Not Off Then Wait 15 seconds <----avoid the changed-my-mind Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' On Wait 1 hour Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' Off <-- bad signal insurance Else Wait 10 minutes Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' Off Edit: You are correct, I forgot the AND

LCD readouts are visible best and dependant on the voltage applied. Older LCD units always had a contrast adjustment and the best angle was adjustment dependent. Temperature affected the readouts somewhat also. Imagine that for a thermostat? If it is new you may consider the warranty complaint system.