larryllix

I notice they purposely try to avoid showing or mentioning the controller box and power supply for these LED strips. How large are they and do they require any custom wiring? I assume they are all just plug-in to each other. Can you post pictures of the controller and PSU along with wiring?

Loose neutral connections one of the most common service calls for electrical utility service trucks. We got about 5-10 per week. Many problems at the aluminum to copper wiring connections exposed to weather outside the homes.

Oh yeah. Does your PV system have a flip over when the grid fails? Does it disconnect from co-generating when the grid fails? I can't imagine any other way you could have it set up so in either case you have a relay/contactor with a fail-safe contact that will either close or open and sitting there 24x7 and not doing much collects dust without ever "wiping". Good contact design makes contact metals touch before the armature is fully pulled into the armature/coil. Now when the last bit of motion is happening, the contact either rolls across the surface of the flat metal surface or gets dragged a bit, either way, "wiping" the dust and/or oxide off the electrical connection surfaces. When they sit idle for months and years without occasional wiping they can accumulate dust etc. and that can burn when seeig an electrical arc and now you have high resistance carbon between your contacts. AS a wild shot in the dark can you turn breakers on and off to cause the system to operate whichever way it is set up? Don't do it too rapidly but several times. Then see if this improves.

Correct but.... 240 volt loads are not connected, and cannot affect, the Neutral. Yes, with a bad neutral, the two 120 voltages can vary up and down, float between 0 and 240 volts (load dependent) but loads can only affect voltages and lines they are connected to. The bright flashes are caused by 120 volt loads on the opposite phase / leg causing the neutral to be "off-centre". I always think of it as two ridgid but bendy posts, each with spring to the centre (neutral). Too much pull on the common centre point moves the centre point over towards one post. Now one is shorter (low voltage) and one is longer (higher voltage). With a good neutral connection the springs are more reinforced and ridgid. Of course the ground wiring helps the rigidity and complicates finding it when the neutral is intermittent or missing. Has it rained lately? Then along came plastic plumbing and water meter techs disconnecting the jumper around the plastic meters.

Nonsense. A 120 volt bulb is connected to the neutral and could cause brightening. A 240 volt load is not connected to the neutral and does not involve the neutral connection or capability. Brightening only happens when a load connected to neutral and the opposite phase is applied.

Actually it is the opposite of that. When a 240 load is applied, it will not affect a loose neutral. If a loose phase is happening the 240 load will reduce the voltage across one or both phases and lights will dim but never brighten. With a bad neutral 240 volt loads are not affected, only the 120 volt loads. 120 volt loads can cause the other phase conductor to increase voltage as the bad neutral cannot maintain it's voltage position in the centre (split) of the 240 volt. The result and fix is the same, regardless. Your electrical supply company needs to be alerted to investigate this. It may end up being your problem, depending where the onus is divided. Ours was always at the meter base and the wiring from the meter base to the main switch and panel was the customer's problem. Some nice utility worker may follow up and do you a favour, in that case. Otherwise it will be an electrician call and $$$.

Sounds like the same old "loose neutral" on the electrical feed from the street transformer. LEDs indicate these problems better than incandescents ever did.

$iMotionCount =+ 1 Probably would be listed as $iMotionCount += 1

Yeah, It seems rather odd that the webpage alexa app will not allow so many things for setup, and yet under the devices you can individually disable/delete items and also discover new items...and without the silly verbal reminders and warning, so annoying. No I don't have a Hue Hub,..... and why only a reminder bout a Hue Hub over the other few hundred brands? Oh yeah a warning! If you delete all your ISY devices for longer than a few seconds you will need to re-define and re-enable all your Routines inside the mobile Alexa app again.

Alexa doesn't like when you cancel things in ISY Portal, and sometimes disables things it thinks do not exist anymore. AI (guessing) at it's finest.

It is intentional then and I didn't find a bug to report. Thanks. Mentally fixed here. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

This must be new to me also. Did you mean IoP? I have never heard of logging in to polisy via ISY finder. My URL is http://192.168.0.165:3000/dashboard I never use https.

While on this subject, what is with the login via ISY Portal that takes you back to Polisy to login again, every time? I thought only one login was necessary last update. It seems the login process has gone haywire again.

@Michel Kohanim IoP error after TriggerLinc option close. IoP 5.4.4 Polyglot 3.1.10

"Trigger" was Roy Roger's horse so.....

I would wait until Michel gets on this from your open ticket. I assume you meant to use the acronym IoP, as IoT has a different meaning typically, and may confuse some. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I have always had to restart my whole polisy any update I have done. Some small quirk always seems to show up. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Yeah, It seems like it would be so easy to add another pulldown option in the menu, and add the same code without the "program Stop"

Just some observations Why not use vacation mode if a permanent hold is wanted? I am not sure Away climate will ever be Indefinite remotely, and may not be a possible combination . I have never used Away on my ecobees. This is my third, now. What is your internal schedule hold set to? This may be overriding any remote Hold. I gave up trying to have my ISY control my ecobee stats (they already contain very advanced logic) and went the other way around, finding that the ecobee stat firmwares were so much more stable and didn't rely on cloud and multi-processor mediums to operate. In the end, a much more reliable and easily settable way was for the ecobee Vacation schedule status to control my ISY vacation logic for the whole house. If the connection failed it was only some fancy HA stuff like humidifier, HRV, fan cycling, security lighting etc.. not my home heating. Of course my house (slab heat in Canadian winter) would only reheat about 1 degree per hour, at best, so when it failed, we slept with a lot of blankets the first night home and used the stove a lot, the next morning

Here is what I would like to see... Program 1 If condition = True Then deTrigger Program 1 <------ disable If section without stopping it do something wait 5 seconds do something else enable Program 1 <----- enable If section Else ----

I heard you were coming and moved. Here is a map of southern Ontario. See the braying elephant? I lived in a**hole.

He couldn't live up to the blonde image giving good advice like that. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I can see you are a man of experience. Not many would even realise these quirks without sweating through it themselves. Still have any hair left?

Yes. IIRC this is only event driven system I have worked with, that can have processes stopped and restarted. I would guess in the beginning UDI had to decide what to do when a new event happens that is the same as one already being processed. Continue like nothing happened and ignore the new event Continue like nothing happened and stack the new event for sequential operation Stop the current process and handle the new even like the previous process wasn't happening. The choice they made provides a lot of strange happenings in even processing and program writing. It definitely puts a hiccough in the logical thinking of experienced inline code writers. Now I would like UDI to add a program disable command that allows a program to finish what it started. Currently the Disable program command line also stops the affected program. "They just have no self-control..."

Yeah, Spaghetti code can't really exist in ISY event programming. Although you can make some very interdependent event driven code that can oscillate. Been there, done that. BTW: I use the Repeat While construct as an inline If/Then/Else construct. Since ISY doesn't offer much in the way of inline conditionals, it makes and avenue to get things done. I don't like it but the whole thing would be much better if I could change the names of the construct to suit better. Good inline commenting and labeling helps the confusion a lot. It can get complicated when you write ISY code to average multiple sensor inputs and discard outliers but it works well for analogue inputs to be reliable in the event of a sensor malfunction and I always like to not use sensor analogues directly from input devices. Passing them through a stats variable has allowed me to swap input devices, change scaling and otherwise massage data that would mean modifying many programs using that data. When I half moved my programs fro ISY to polisy it took one program to synchronise sensor data between devices. Some see that as too complicated and some see it as simplified at the cost of a few more bytes of code. At least ISY offers many ways to do things and we all have our druthers. This is about the 5th system style I have worked with that used event driven code. If you lived on VB, using their "objects", for a length of time, you would fall right into this style.