larryllix

You would require a three wire cable a d the bare ground doesn't count. Dimmable receptacles are a bad idea and I doubt you will ever find one in upper North America. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Oh sorry. I have never used the output contact statuses. I always did my own setpoints inside ISY with longer or shorter cycled the humidifier appropriately based on the ISY setpoint. However I did sync my ISY setpoints off my ecobee stat humidity setpoints. When I built my home many contractors stated I would never need a humidifier, based on the sealing of my construction, so I built the air handler space too tight to add one. Boy, were they wrong! If you use an HRV ventilation system in the winter climate. I used a large room humidifier and had to haul water regularly in winter months. 😪 IIRC, my ecobee 3, and ecobee 4, only ever had one extra contact output. You had to take your choice between usage setup.

yes. you can see them in the status page and use them in programs to read or set Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Text messaging has changed over the last few years. They were never guaranteed as instantaneous and now can take days to arrive. This is very annoying as another good medium has been wrecked.

Usually providers provide a conversion address method to convert emails to SMS so you can use the native ISY notification action system. it usually looks something like 1234567890@verizon.txt.com do a search for listed domain names. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I always use the bash script via PuTTY to upgrade and always have to power cycle polisy complete. Something always hangs after until a complete reboot. Other upgrade methods have never worked for me and the bash commands are already embedded into the command line memory so I can access it with a few keystrokes. I have tried the online menu options, and the reset button method but had no success. Things may have changed in the last few upgrades though.

Always factory reset before linking to ISY. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

Thanks for the report. What type of sensor was it?

I have had an IP duplication a few times in my life. It isn't always the devices with duplicate addresses that act up. A few times the whole router network acts up and they can take turns at random or stay with the same device lockout. I had about 60 devices locked down in my last setup with IP reservations and when you get a duplicate due to some bootup error you can sweat for days trying to find it. The symptoms are way to random to zoom in and you can't get your system performing properly to diagnose it either. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

That sounds like a recipe for disaster. Unless every device is manually IP address locked or you even have one dynamic IP address that your router can DHCP assign, sooner or later you may experience what looks just like what you have right now. I have been there a few times over the years and trouble is it can change every time you reboot or power cycle. BTW: I ran various models of ASUS routers and unless you power cycle them, some problems never clear up from a reboot. I have 2 x ax92u WiFi6 mesh routers for sale right now. Lots of features but as undetectable ad the last one I dumped. I hear reports that Ubiquiti are about the same calibre, from some sources. ***sigh*** Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

You will also likely need the latest version of ISY you want to install after a factory reset.

Power cycle your router. This sounds like you may have created a duplicate IP address, and power cycling your router may change some IP addresses around to allow you to connect with your ISY. This also sounds like you are not using DHCP in your ISY. This can cause IP confusion when two IP addresses clash. Always set static IP addresses inside your router so that it can manage them properly, avoiding IP address duplications.

Does that mean it is a switch or just a hub, repeating everything it hears? IOW: Is there any intelligence / arbitration between the three ports or do all ports get the same data?

Since all others use these interfaces with complete success, it suggests you have something not set quite right. What version of ISY are you running?

That one always puzzled me too. Possible they got an agreement before the change in management, or change of mind, inside Smarthome. If they could get access to the technology and sell it, why couldn't UDI ?

I never declare any devices as a "light" in my Alexa app. All items are defined as "Device/Switch" and they all control an ISY program. I only use On and Off commands. To do this, all programs control Insteon Scenes and program Scenes (mostly WiFi lighting) with various brightness levels. eg. Alexa.. Turn on dim lights Alexa...turn on bright lights Alexa...turn off all lights Alexa...turn on very dim lights Alexa...turn on red lights Alexa...turn red deck lights The only "All lights" defined is the ISY program I wrote. Alexa doesn't know I have any lights. Everything is just a device. I don't want Alexa trying to do any AI guessing crap. Having said that, Alexa will ask you about each and every device, at some time, whether it is connected to a light. Say "No"

Did you get the PIN installed into your ecobee account successfully?

if you are running windows, lower your screen magnification temporarily until you are done using the admin console. Admin console is based on some older monitor parameters that haven't progressed with the times, apparently. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

How many do you need? I have an extra 20 units I used for a radial wheel style ceiling animations suing 10 strips per tent pole and two tent poles for my son's wedding in our side yard. Some controllers are still in new boxes. I only see myself using about 8-10 units maximum and the rest sit in a box now. PM me if you are interested. You would have to wire the connectors to the terminals for the LED strips and also PS connector. These are a little more clumsy than some of the newer MagicHome units but are 5 channels controllers. I have only ever used them for 4 channels, being R,G,B, and WW in the strips. I have connectors, LED strips, controllers and power supplies, along with 18 x 7W RGBWW bulbs that don't support native CW. I found newer units that are 9W and some 11W with RGB WW/CW now. In case it wasn't mentioned, the 5m strips commonly available, have a connector on each end and can be cut every 3-4" for two connectable ends on shorter lengths.

This was reported by a few of us and UDI is fixing it. Just enter the notifications and return to the program pulldown. it recreates the name loss each a/c reboot. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I use the control box shown in the photos I posted above. It was the cheapest one I found years ago, at about $6 each. My suggestion is to look for ones with a builtin barrel socket for the 12v ps. That will save you wiring the 12v ps, at least. Some come with led strip connectors built in. I had to wire my own and found some brands of strips needed the rbg wires scrambled. They are not all the same. Not a big deal to swap 2 or 3 wires though. Metal tracks to hold the strips are nice. I never used any, just silicone two screw clamps every 6 to 10 inches. I just wired up another strip in my apparent widow, about 70 inches long. I am running it off a 12v 1.0 ampere adapter just fine. Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I use supernight RGBW strips but almost any brand will do. https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=supernight+RGBW+LED+strips&crid=21DO2VWRGULQF&sprefix=supernight+rgbw+led+strips%2Caps%2C87&ref=nb_sb_noss The most important part is the controller box that determines the interface to your ISY. I use the MagicHome protocol and there are a few ways to support the WiFi protocol from ISY. I have written my own software that runs on a RPi, or inside my polisy and uses NRs to command it. There is also a NS in development. I am not sure how far it got. Other brand names the MagicHome protocol goes by are LEDenet, FluxNet, and MagicLight, Magichome. Many cheap RGBW or RGBCW bulbs can be found that use the same protocol. There are many free apps that can operate these bulbs/strip in the google Playstore. I have some 9W RGBCW bulbs that are also BT compatible and come with a small remote. RGBCW bulbs can do WW and CW from 2200K to 7000K, plus colours. RGBW strips usually only have the 4 LED colours so IMHO the 3000k-3600K white LED is about the best for all around lighting. As far as native Insteon controllers, there are none. Strips typically come in 5m = 16.3' lengths and spec a 12v 5 ampere power supply. I have run mine on a 3 ampere wallwart style, no problem and even a 1 or 2 ampere supply would likely do it by my measurements I published here years ago. Look for older posts where you may find long threads about the hardware with photos. The strips + controller + power supply should cost no more than about $40 total. However the mounting may cost more. This is one example of a mounting hardware. https://www.amazon.ca/VIPMOON-Mounting-Brackets-Non-Waterproof-Included/dp/B072N2C1YL/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3HO86CKQW25AU&keywords=LED+strip+mounting&qid=1659696337&sprefix=led+strip+mounting%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-7 If you use the sticky backed strips, after the first usage they heat up and will fall off when the adhesive gets warm. For kitchen usage I recommend you do not get the bare strips. Get the silicone tube encased units (IP67). You will appreciate it when you try to wipe off kitchen grease and films later.

I have been finding more Alexa confusion lately, when I use the same device name with and without an adjective descriptor. Alexa started asking which fan, or other device, I mean when asked for the basic device to operate. This seems much more frequent lately. Perhaps I have started over from scratch and Alexa has to learn my devices again, first. This was one of the main reasons I have about five google home speakers sitting in boxes now. Of course I don't want any AI garbage applied to my HA voice controls either. That can cost me money, and/ or be dangerous at times when assumptions are made Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

I have never used a fan speed controller but with lights I always use the syntax. "Alexa, turn on medium fan" "Alex, turn on fan medium" "Alexa, turn on low fan" "Alexa, turn on high fan" "Alexa, turn off fan" Alexa syntax seems to understand the syntax more reliably if "Turn on" or "Turn off" is the used syntax. That syntax, used for every device i have, including multiple levels, scenes, RGBCW bulbs and strips with many colours, is so much easier for others to remember.

I am with Virgin Mobile in Canada, a subsidiary of Bell Mobility (100% owned) , using the same networks and towers, and possibly the same software and servers? I have the same problem occasionally. I get text messages hours later, as well as get the same text messages days later after I deleted them. This has been going on for years now and getting worse. I thought it was just my lack of noticing the messages coming in but it has been happening too often lately for messages labeled as new, (in bold) but the ISY text tells me it was sent 2 days earlier. IOW: I believe this may be a Bell Canada SMS server problem with messages not being cleared properly and/or handled properly (getting lost).