larryllix

Ithought about that a few years back but it didn't work out for me. One of the most basic things was that WoL can only wake devices on the higher subnet. hmmmm.. ISY may be able to handle WoL with two subnets. Have to examine the WoL admin console page. You would need a second DHCP server to handle the second subnet. Most routers don't handle that well.

For some controllers/bulbs I had to turn the bulb on first before sending colour levels. Others the order didn't matter. Some types cannot have a white command and an RGB colour sent at the same time. Some require a mask to specify which you are sending RGB or White. The wrong sequence, nothing will happen. I found an old copy of the hacked API from the linked thread. Extend your timeout while experimenting to say... 1200 mSec. If you got some response you are the right track. MagicHome API.txt

Cree became so unreliable that Home Depot took them off their shelves. I had about 5 bulbs out of twelve go bad. When I attempted to replace a chandelier full of bulbs the new ones dimmed with different curves and looked like hell. Some Cree bulbs are still in usage but they earned a bad name and many others came to the market with better pricing. I didn't know Cree still existed as a bulb producer.

See post above also. In the examples in the thread you linked to I will a attempt to demo this from memory. Red: 49;255;0;0;0;0;15;63;129;138;139;150 <----checksum should remain the same with a deleted 0 = fourth channel Green: 49;0;255;0;0;0;15;63;129;138;139;150 <----checksum should remain the same with a deleted 0

I don't believe the codes are exactly the same. In the packets you have to send as many channels as your controller has. In my controllers they are 5 channel to support R,G,B,WW, & CW. I do not use the CW, and it was probably discovered it was useless after users owned them for a while. An extra strip of W was not needed as you could mix in some RGB colours and make your own for no extra hardware cost. In the four channel controllers one byte was eliminated in the channel list packet. I assume anther byte would be eliminated in a 3 channel controller. These bulb types annd brands are determined by a common protocol request for status send the the bulbs. Of course NRs would not have that luxury as ISY cannot read any intelligent responses and/or parse the response using NRs. Do you have a RPI or polisy to try the MagicHome NS? It wasn't fancy but IIRC it sorted out the bulb styles and uses the correct packetting. If you are familiar with python3 I have my NRbridge code if you can make some sense out of to create your NR packets. I used variable substitution to create custom colours from one NR. I used three in the end. ON, OFF, & SETLEVELS, for each IP address/bulb. I have since dumped that method and use 3 NRs to send the same but my NRbridge handles the fine details including synchronising bulb groups and animations, and native bulb effects. The flashing is very handy for notifications.

Which method are you attempting to use? NRs or the NS? The NRs do not report ant data back and I am not sure you will get any back unless certain modes are turned on. Have you fixed your IP address for the controller in your router DHCP reservation table and power cycled the controller?

My 100 Watt equivalent LED bulb in my bedside lamp comes on at 10% in the middle of the night after seeing motion and only lasts at least 30 seconds. During waking hours it goes on to 70% and lasts for at least 2 minutes. When asked to via Alexa, it comes on at 100% and lasts for six hours or until I turn it off. I have only a few incandescent bulbs left so I don't worry if the come on during the day. My Gathering room has about 150 Watts of LED light. On depressing days I light the room up like an operating room. While watching TV, only select lights come on at 5% to 40%. For parties or mood lighting most of my lights turn deep colours, depending on the festive occasion. Key lights are Insteon driven 23W LED BR-40 bulbs and stay white for reading etc..

...and Philips Hue crapped on me. I have about $300 worth of bulbs and they cannot do green because they thought they could do green using violet and yellow...looks like an old green fluorescent tube when people hated them in the 1970s. Later Hue changed their hub and it isn't compatible anymore. I have 25 $10 Chinese (they all are...even Hues) bulbs that do white and RGB better than most other bulbs I have seen. On top of that I can turn them all on or off at once with a very slight perceptible delay and even do multicoloured animations with them. The Hues all sit in a junk box, useless now. I didn't even install thousands of Christmas lights last year and spend a whole day finding the bad LED connections, because I have 15 RGBWW bulbs around the outside of my house. One Alexa command turns on Christmas colours. Another turns on Easter colours, Canada Day, or Independence Day light colours.

IIRC they are called "potlights" in Canada. I have heard them called many other names by Americans. Can lights? When you look at the fixture from the side it has a square box and a rim around the bottom like a tophat, like a magician, or a circus ringleader, might wear.

Any bulb with an external voltate control will flicker and go out around the 8% to 15% level from my experiences. LED strips are typically controlled by a PWM (pulse width modulated) controller and can dim right down to 0.5%. Look for threads in these forums regarding MagicHome, and LEDenet, RGBW strips some of the more popular controllers. You should find aat least one thread with photos and parts lists to assemble them. I have about 20 units in my home. I love the brilliance and appearance (CRI?) of the warm white light and the colours are intense, rich, even and all available. White and RGB LEDs can be mixed in most brands, contrary to most bulbs that really suck. I have done animations with these RGBWW strip on a wedding tent ceiling in a pinwheel fashion using a RPi for software controlled via a cell phone app keyboard, via ISY Portal, through ISY, into a RPi running custom software. I love them and have them above all my kitchen cabinets, bathroom floor behind appliances, and headboard of my bed. I use the IP67 style with a completely encased in a rectangular silicone tubing, so they can be washed down when dirty or dusty. They cost a few dollar more oer 5m strip. There is a NS to control MagicHome/LEDenet strips/bulbs or use NRs directly or I use a custom software driven by NR commands to get a fast response from my 29? WiFi bulbs and strips. None of this is cloud dependent but it is router dependent.

I got turned off by certain posters having so much garbage in their "signatures", I have had it disabled for years now. When a signature takes up my whole monitor page or is full of "Deep thoughts" or spam it is time to go. Unfortunately individual signature blocking is not an option. It makes it hard to follow continuity of a thread. @Michel KohanimThe forum could really use a limitation of lines on signature length. It is thread disruptive and so many users blocking it destroys a nice feature where posters can expose their equipment, firmware and interests to others. A limitation of X inches of space below any post would be a nice limitation if it could be implemented.

WoL does not use a device's IP address. When you suggest an IP address, ISY uses it to generate the highest address on the subnet and use that which is assumed to be the WoL IP address. Then the MAC address is sent a WoL packet using that address. If you use two subnets allowing 511 addresses it will be hard to make work properly and address in the lower subnet will not be woken up using this WoL tachnique. eg: WoL 192.168.0.67. = ISY uses 192.168.0.255 and the MAC address for that device. All devices hear this on the LAN but only the specific MAC device uses it and wakes up it's device.

Don't be sorry about it! We are all mostly more mature in this crowd except a few users, like..... whats-his-name? j/k I consider devices that are not dual band as old or needing replacement if they are ever upgraded. My Insteon noise makers are as people warned me for years but never thought it should be a problem. Chamberlain garage door openers. I have two vintages. One older AC motor with just electronic wall control, and one newer unit with DC motor, battery backup etc... I always wondered where the interference came from until I added the newer unit and it crippled my Insteon system abut 75%. Made it much easier to find. Then I unplugged both GDOs and it was like a new system again. Now two FilterLincs have resolved those problems. They are easy as any plug-in wallwart and I now have an extra for testing for future suspicions and testing.

Trouble is a "white paper" is only a proposal and not necessarily how the protocol was implemented. Many companies do this to throw competitors off the trail. It is done with patents frequently, where some detail is changed to slow down copying. This was discovered by our friend failing to prove Insteon protocol was easily hacked. He didn't understand what a white paper was either.

Search the threads for Magic Home and other strip lighting. You would likely want the fully sealed IP-67? or higher with the sealed silicone tubing around it for later cleaning. I use it on the tops of all my kitchen and dining room cabinets. I love the effect and colours when requested during occasions. If you change lighting while people are walking up/down the steps it will change their concentration and likely cause a fall on the steps. If the lighting can be seen directly by the person it makes it hard to see and causes conscious focus on the person's stepping and can cause confusion, resulting in falling also. Walking up/down steps becomes a subconscious effort in humans and changing it to a conscious effort while in process can result in falls or foot pattern confusion. You may want to provide some general background ambient lighting in addition, in case it fails or blinks during human travel. I like the under railing effect but does it interfere with the hand-railing garb technique? The thicker handrailing have a grab trough on each side but a strip on the bottom may interfere with children's grip on it. In Mexico, one theater we attended daily had strips in the top of each step just inside the nosing trim. I had to assist many people attempting to walk down them. Wrong thing to do when you can see the strip. The nosing edge became hard to see and although you could walk down the stairs blindfolded changing the focus to humans was a nasty effect. A second row of trim just above the edging trim on the staircase to provide shielded lighting of the steps from both sides may work very nicely to.

CAO Wireless Tags. They are cheap, easy to implement with ISY and generate cloud charting, have wet probes available, use cheap CR2032 batteries,which last 8-12 months, and very accurate without drifting sensors.

Typically ...yes! Insteon devices will try up to three times if an ACK is not received back from the destination device. Less can reduce reliability. More can clog up protocol channels with excessive clutter that likely should be fixed. Scene signals do not support this technique as there is no ACK from destination devices, similar to the old X10 protocol. ISY guesses at results. Hops are a different beast, and often confused with retries. When a device attempts to communicate with another, every device that hears the package resends the package in synchronicity with the other devices. This is called a HOP. Typically they are set to 3 HOPS by the initiating device. Each device subtracts one from the count and sends it again. The communication between the initiating device and the target device is not counted as a HOP. This is why good Insteon comms are important. Think of this. 1 device talks to 8 devices and repeat it. Then another 25 devices repeat it again to the rest of the 100 devices. Now add in the three retries on top of that when it doesn't work. Now the fast Insteon protocol is bogged down with junk packets. Hope this helps.

I think that power consumption is way overstated but to support that you will need to radial feed every strip or use #8 wire. Good luck with your branch splices connecting #8 AWG to say #16-#18 tap-offs A combination of techniques may work better. Use four main runs of #14 (15A each) to feed each set of 3 steps. Soldered and shrink wrapped tap-offs may work better with those wire sizes. To use the system in the thread you found above, you would need a controller box every step. If you have the space, it would cost a lot more, about $12-$15 per controller/step. I have python3 software that could drive those in sequences easily, and I receive ISY NRs to control the sequences/colours etc. If you know python3 you should be able to adapt it to your needs. I currently run it on my polisy box but came from a RPi where I did animations for a wedding tent once. I used 12 x 5m strings in a ceiling spokewheel configuration. It was fun. The controllers and PSU all sat on a common central hub wooden platform attached to the main tent pole by the ceiling.

These Insteon stats only report in once a change of about 2-3F has occurred. I have two of them (2441ZTH wireless) . The older one is controllable, and the newer one confirms all ISYs commands but doesn't actually execute them. I was using it as a probe only but likely the worse probe I have ever seen. If you want a decent stat, get an ecobee and use a NS. If you want sensor probes, get some CAO Tags, and use a NS or the kumoapp code to inject your state variables.

After about a year of this nonsense from google, I started a new account and it started to work again. I had to abandon my original google account for the purpose of ISY Portal. It never worked again, despite months of deleting and re-installing. Now I have a bunch of google accounts, but I have since abandoned my GH units, anyway. I got tired of their security games. Google support only ever told me to contact the code writer, Benoit and all looked proper at that end.

What would you address them with? ISY isn't capable of doing animation. ISY's fastest timer is Wait 1 second. It could be done with an Ardiuno or RPi as in the link, I guess. Sending a signal to the LEDs would take a lot less controllers than one for each step strip. BTW: I run my 5m long RGBW strips with a 12v 3 ampere PSU (36W) full brightness, no problem. The 5v 60A power supply (300W) in the article is ridiculous overkill. Even the wiring shown in the project link wouldn't handle that current.

If my quick research is correct that controller is a Bluetooth protocol. I don;t think much will interface with that. You would need a BT access point within 12-15 feet of every strip, and software to interface with it. After 15 years of owning a BT AP I tossed it in the bin. BT is basically only for operating devices on your body. Check out some of the old threads in the forums here. There is a lot of photos for LEDenet, and MagicHome, and MiLight, RGBWW/CW controllers using WiFi. ISY and polisy support a lot of Ethernet devices.

The thing I don't understand is this guarded API, that they all try to do. If some company would publish their API for their set of WiFi devices the developers could rush to support them on every platform. They would likely become the industry standard and corner most of the market. As it is, these companies are basically guaranteeing their own obsolescence due to so much competition in the market. Trying to give the printer away and gouge the ink price doesn't seem to work in this field, because the app is usually free. It makes no sense. Insteon is another one trying to do this. In other forums that is the retort to suggestions, most times. Insteon is an island and nobody wants to be captured there. Open up and become the industry standard workhorse. When I purchase $3000-$5000 worth of Insteon gadgets at $60 a device, what is left to sell with a closed API? Your free software? Your hub for $99? What moronic marketing! For the massive remote control market crowd, the $10 WiFi device, cloud service, and $25 Alexa speaker will win out, every time.

Did you try to load the link table from a device and then clicking the compare to see what ISY thinks should be in there? This is very odd that solely On would not work.