nadler

@io_guy Thanks for the advice. I think I will get the SLUSB stick and experiment on that. That way I have a backup to play with.

Wow, from reading the thread it seems there are quite a lot of problems, many above my understanding at this point. Does the SLUSB001A not have these problems or is it easier to update? They seem to be in stock and for $20 seems worth it to avoid the hassle. Or is it the same hassle and just a better stick?

Thanks @io_guy Very helpful.

Before I moved and committed to Lutron, I thought I would experiment with Zwave 700 and Polisy. I purchased the zooz zwave 700 dongle and the ZooZ water sensor here. I have not previously used Zwave with ISY and except for Schlage locks and inovelli wall plugs as extenders (using Smarthings) I have very little zwave experience. The Polisy and the zooz stick worked immediately following various instructions found on a number of threads in this forum. The zooz's leak sensor also included quickly following their included instructions. I'd say the whole business took me no longer than a 1/2 hour to get up and running. My polisy is in my basement and the sensor worked well there but not on my first floor. I decided to try an experiment. I excluded the Inovelli wall plug (a 2017 model no longer made) from the Smartthings hub and included it in ISY on Polisy. It included quickly. I then moved the wall plug to the first floor. I was surprised when the leak sensor worked flawlessly. Next, I'm going to try the Zooz dimmer. They have a few different models (Mosfet and Triac) and it was confusing as to which ones would work with which bulbs . I reached out to Zoos on Saturday and to my surprise they got back to me on Saturday night. I though I would include the information here as it might be helpful to others (hence the post's title). The differences for the ZEN72 and ZEN77 are similar to those of the ZEN22 and ZEN27, where the essential difference is that they are wired differently in 3-way (or larger) installations, and they support different loads.Mosfet and Triac comes into play with dimmers, as different bulbs use different drivers, and a driver incompatibility between the switch and the bulb can create a flickering effect. Some things you should consider when selecting a dimmer: Is this for a single pole or multi-point control (3-way, 4-way, etc.) installation? If it's multi-point, go with ZEN77, if a single pole, go with ZEN72. While both will work as single pole switches, ZEN72 can handle more Wattage, so you won't have to worry about counting the bulbs. How much load will be connected to the dimmer? If it's just a couple of bulbs, go with the ZEN77, if it's 5 or more bulbs, go with ZEN72. Are your LED bulbs on this list? If not, go with ZEN77. But if your bulbs are listed, you're good to go with the ZEN72. Hope this helps others.

You can create an Alexa routine. Name the routine: "Kitchen off Routine" WHEN YOU SAY: "Alexa, Turn Off the Lights in 30 Minutes ALEXA WILL: Add action: Wait 30 minutes Add anoter action: Smart Home: (Choose your device) : Power off That should do it.

I have this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-51120-1-Panel-Protector-240-Volt/dp/B00081K55Q/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=whole+house+surge+protection&qid=1568583448&sr=8-15 Had it installed by an electrician when I upgraded my panel years ago. I've had no problems since and I'm glad I have it.

From your Alexa app on your phone: Tap on Devices (lower right of screen). Tap on the "+" (upper right of screen). Tap on "Add Group" Choose or create name ("Bedroom"). Tap Next. Tap on your bedroom echo device name. Scroll down and choose the device you want to control. Tap Save. Now you can control that device by telling THAT echo to Turn on/off light, for example.

Thanks @Techman and @larryllix. I believe the log in prior versions did log level 3, but perhaps I'm wrong. Unfortunately, I'm getting random offs and ons, on various devices and there is nothing in the error log and nothing in the status log as to what happens prior to the random offs and ons. So it's hard to troubleshoot.

My Log is only showing Status (#1) and not Device Communication events (#3). I've changed it in the event viewer many times but it doesn't change what the log is collecting. Similarly I've changed the Theme many times and after several openings of the administrative console, it too, reverts to the familar default look. I recall someone else mentioning something similar happening with his logs, but I can't find the post or the resolution. I'm using 5.0.14 Firmware and UI. Anyone else having similar issues?

I don't know whether this helps in this context but you can get the deviceId. https://developer.amazon.com/docs/smapi/alexa-settings-api-reference.html Get the API Access Token and Device ID Each request sent to your skill includes an API access token (apiAccessToken) that encapsulates the permissions granted to your skill. You need to retrieve both this token and the device ID (deviceId) and include them in requests for the customer's settings. Both the apiAccessToken and device ID deviceId values are nested in the System object, which is nested in the context object. To see the full body of the request, refer to Request Format. { "context": { "System": { "apiAccessToken": "AxThk...", "apiEndpoint": "https://api.amazonalexa.com", "device": { "deviceId": "string-identifying-the-device", "supportedInterfaces": {} }, "application": { "applicationId": "string" }, "user": {} } } } Thus: deviceId = this.event.context.System.device.deviceId When your code requests customer settings, include: The deviceID in the request path The access token in an Authorization header in the format: Bearer ACCESS_TOKEN, where ACCESS_TOKEN is the value of the apiAccessToken field from the Alexa request message. Here is an example: Authorization: Bearer AxThk...6fnLok Thus: accessToken = this.event.context.System.apiAccessToken See also: Handling Requests Sent by Alexa

Perhaps trying resetting the echo device and then running setup for that echo device with an entirely different name. Ask the echo to find the devices again. If that doesn't work. Try deleting all your devices from the Alexa app and finding them again. This worked for me a while ago.

I went with Schlage Zwave and I'm very happy with them (2). Since I don't have a zwave ISY and I didn't want to take ISY apart (it's been working so well for years) I got a Samsung smarthub and all work great.. I will eventually move to zwave on the isy.

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure which way I will go. I just got word that the Amazon delivery of the Schlage is delayed by 2 days, so I'll have time to research or perhaps order from some place else.

I have a similar issue to stillen_i30. My miIndustries insteon lock broke. Received FREE replacement of half the lock and I managed to break it. Didn't seem fair to ask them for another replacement so I just bought a Schlage 468, based on the recommendations here and it's security rating of 1. I also considered the Yale lock. As getting a lock for the door was a priority, I didn't have much time for research. Anyway, I am fully insteon and ISY and don't intend to have other Z wave devices (at least immediately). So my choice now is to upgrade my isy with the zwave module or use something like the Samsung smarthub or some other zwave hub. Can the smarthub or a different zwave hub integrate with ISY (maybe using REST)? Looking for thoughts of those with experience. Thanks!

I wanted to thank Blueman2 again for his clear and detailed instructions. I also added a step to enable Alexa to Tell Me the current inside temperature on my two Nest thermostats. I replaced two insteon thermostats which integrated well with ISY (but didn't always work so well) with two NEST thermostats which work well but do not integrate with ISY. I missed my previous thermostat integration with ISY but was unwilling to use a Raspberry-pi or a computer on 24/7 to get the integration. What I now use is ISY's ability to integrate with IFTTT and NEST's ability to integrate with IFTTT. Now I can ask "Alexa, TELL ME the temperature" and she replies with the upstairs and downstairs temperature on the NESTs. First I followed the Wiki to enable ISY to talk to IFTTT and vica versa. https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY_Portal_IFTTT_Integration Then from IFTTT I used the NEST channel and the MAKER channel to create a recipe which sends the temperature to an ISY integer variable. This required about 40 recipes one for each degree the temperature rose and one for each degree the temperature fell and a set for each Nest (upstairs and downstairs) - so I have 40 recipes. However, they took less than a minute each to create. Every time the temperature rises or falls 1 degree the NEST cloud tells IFTTT which then triggers one of the recipes which sends the actual degree that the nest rose or fell (i.e. the Downstairs Nest was at 69 degree and it fell to 68 degrees) the IFTTT recipes sends 68 to the ISY variable.. Next, I created a program in ISY which recognizes that the variable has changed and triggers the network resource as described by Blueman2 in the first post of this thread. So this killed two birds with one stone. I now have the actual upstairs and downstairs temperatures in ISY that I can use for any purpose I wish AND Alexa can speak those temperatures when asked. The downside is that I only get the actual temperatures of the Nests. I don't get the setpoints or any other information the Nest provides. Alexa, however can directly change the setpoints but not through ISY. If anyone is interested in greater detail, I'd be happy to share.

In the spoken mapping in the portal instead of "office lights" or "office light" just put in "office". You can still tell Alexa to "turn on the office lights" or turn off the office lights". I eliminated the word light or lights in all my portal mappings and Alexa now works reliably. Before I had the same problem you are now having.

Wow. Great find. That was it. And thanks for all your effort on putting this together writing this up. Regards.

I'm running 4.5.1 firmware. But, I noticed I didn't have the updated UI. When I updated to the 4.5.1 UI it did seem to eliminate the reboot. I also deleted port forwarding on my router. Now I'm left with the "TCP client request failed Net module Rule 50:400". Occasionally I also get a NCP error so maybe it has to do with my router. Thanks.

This looks terrific. Unfortunately when testing the two network resources I created I get the following error messages: "could not open config file to read [/conf/INSTENG.OPT]" and "TCP client request failed net module Rule 50:400" My ISY seems to hang and then reboot after this. Anyone know what these messages mean? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

Mark I recently had the same issue. New PLM, 3 am garage light (and some others) go on and stay on all night, garage iolinc indicates the garage is open when it isn't and not much info in the log. Apparently I had a very old KPL. I used one of the back light buttons to indicate whether the garage door was opened or closed. That seems to be one of the themes running through the solutions Stu mentions above. I replaced the KPL with a new one and everything is fine. I believe the older KPL were known for sending itinerant commands. At 3 am ISY sends a query to all devices. I think, at least in my case, this was the key. The KPL responded to the query in a strange way which lead to all the bad things that happened.

Well, it was a bad PLM 2413S. It lasted 2 years 4 months.

Down for me, since last night. I'm getting "OK" but nothing is turning on or off at all. The "OK" is coming back almost immediately. It use to take several seconds. Any thoughts?

Thank you Michel and David, I had followed 1,2,3 and 4 in the instructions and the Isy appeared in the alexa app as linked. However, even though Amazon said it was linked and the Alexa app said it was linked when I went to the ISY portal at https://my.isy.io/index.htm the echo was not linked. I followed Michel's instructions in post #27 (and similar instructions in post #7) and all is well, 96 devices found. Very Exciting!

I guess I'm the only one have trouble. Upon trying to discover devices Alexa says the dreaded "I couldn't find any connected home devices." I tried discovery about 8 times at this point. I also disconnected the echo and reconnected. The skill still works well. Should I disable the skill?

+1 for cabinet or cabinets as in Kitchen cabinet(s). Thanks. The skill works great with the existing predefined devices added to "notes>spoken" in the console. Not at all otherwise. At least for me. Noel