
builderb
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Got this up and running, and it works great. I'm curious about the "unifi_siteid" variable, though. I got the node server running by leaving that variable on "default", and as long as the devices I'm trying to track are on the original network my UDM created, it works fine. But I have several VLANs, and I would like one of those to be where the family phones connect to. I'm not sure what ID value to use to get this node server to look at that. Network name didn't work. VLAN ID didn't seem to work either. Is there an example of how to manipulate that variable? Is that even what that variable is set up to do? Ideally I would like to specify multiple VLANs for the node server to watch for various devices. Is that possible?
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Did you use a separate program to reset it at dawn? As I recall, I put it on a timer because it was as easy as adding a couple lines to the "then" statement.
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Apparently Ring has been letting their Ukrainian AI team access customer videos with little oversight or control. Yikes.
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I’ll offer this as an example of an override I use. Might be helpful in your situation. My porch lights turn on via motion sensor, and after a minute not sensing motion, the ISY turns them off. However, there are times when I want to keep the porch light on (guests coming, etc.). So if someone uses the physical switch to turn on the porch light, I also have the ISY disable the one minute timer program that turns the light off. The motion sensor still sends on commands when it senses motion, but that’s fine, the light is already on. Then, when the switch is physically turned off, the timer program is reactivated. I also have a 6 hour timer on the on/disable command to ensure that even if someone *ahem* forgets to turn the porch light back off, it will restore itself to normal function without intervention.
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I looked into this for an aquarium light I have that works the same way: line voltage to the LEDs, and a 0-10v control wire regulating the voltage of the lights. You can DIY a controller using the PWM outputs of an Arduino or Pi type device and a voltage doubling circuit. Add a wi-fi shield, and you can have it interact with the ISY REST interface, and back at the light via network resources. With the right skill set, it’s not too difficult. Depends how valuable your time is.
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I looked into this for an aquarium light I have that works the same way: line voltage to the LEDs, and a 0-10v control wire regulating the voltage of the lights. You can DIY a controller using the PWM outputs of an Arduino or Pi type device and a voltage doubling circuit. Add a wi-fi shield, and you can have it interact with the ISY REST interface, and back at the light via network resources. With the right skill set, it’s not too difficult. Depends how valuable your time is.
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The auto top off on my fish tank is a scaled down version of this. It uses an optical level sensor to turn on a pump to replace evaporated water with RODI water to maintain water parameters. The water surface is pretty turbulent too. The trick is that the sensor doesn’t trigger the pump until the sensor is open for two seconds. For a pool, I’m sure you could stretch that to a minute or more. That keeps the pump from coming on every time a wave trough passes by.
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Thinking about this a bit more, you may want to consider wiring up a separate speaker just for this. Presumably you’ll be using your receiver to watch the game. Having it automatically switch to a different input while the replays are being shown might not be ideal. It would also cut down on latency, since you won’t have to switch inputs, pause, play sound, etc. Unless the receiver can automatically overlay an audio track over an already-playing audio stream?
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Don’t know about the Denon. If it stores files locally, and that is exposed to the network commands, then it should be possible. I did something similar, but I used my computer to handle the music portion. I wrote a script that switched the receiver input to the media player, then streamed a playlist from my computer based on a network resource call.
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Not cheap, but good quality and well-supported: https://www.atlas-scientific.com/product_pages/pressure/a-10_pressure.html
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If you’re so inclined, the Davis wind sensor (speed and direction) is pretty easy to connect to an arduino or RPi. Then either have it continuously report, or only report over a threshold. Highly accurate, localized, and instantaneous. Oh yeah, links. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Davis-Instruments-Anemometer-vantage-Pro2153/dp/B076H3HCYX Pulse counter for the wind speed, analog input for the direction. This one is like half the cost of the Davis one, but it’s got lots of support. https://shop.switchdoc.com/collections/sensors/products/weatherrack-anemometer-wind-rain-for-weatherpiarduino-weatherplus-raspberry-pi-arduino
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My ISY is connected to the same UPS that powers my modem, router, IP cameras, NVR, and the Pi I use as a web server. We get a decent amount of power flickers here, and I don't want all this stuff rebooting every time that happens. Had a couple just yesterday with this blasted heat.
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Easy to approximate! I set up the formula for my weather station, and the dew point formula was a bit of a puzzle for a while. Granted, I needed to use RPN, but still! dewPoint=243.12,humidity,.01,6.112,17.62,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,*,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,243.12,+,/,EXP,*,*,*,LOG,*,440.1,-,19.43,humidity,.01,6.112,17.62,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,*,5,9,/,tempF_BME,32,-,*,243.12,+,/,EXP,*,*,*,LOG,-,/,1.8,*,32,+ [emoji23] Personally, I just use humidity to shut off my bathroom fans. Lights too. If the humidity is up, someone is in the shower. We don't get excessive outdoor humidity here during the day.
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Atlas Scientific has saltwater capable flow sensors, just FYI. Not the cheapest solution, but if the cheap stuff fails ya... https://www.atlas-scientific.com/flow-meters.html
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Did the IP address change when the power came back on? IOW, are you using DHCP for it?