chrishick

Good points. How would I control the 16 channel relay board? I'm assuming raspberry pi or arduino? I did find this in the tech documentation for the MP3 board so it should work with dry contact closure. "The trigger inputs are active low and pulled high internally. Therefore, they can be activated either by digital outputs from another microcontroller (such as an Arduino) or by a simple contact closure (switch) to ground. The inputs support voltage levels of either 5V or 3.3V." Is there an advantage to the wav board over the MP3 board?

I was searching for a door bell solution for my house which has a wireless doorbell. My thinking was to use a wired button connected to an IOLinc input and use the IOLinc output to trigger a hacked wireless doorbell button. That way the IOLinc would trigger the ISY and the wireless doorbell receiver at the same time. While searching around I found a Honeywell unit that would accept other inputs for chimes such as motion sensors and door contacts. So that got me to dreaming and googling. An hour latter I came up with this. MP3 board with 18 trigger inputs https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11029 A couple of Smartenit EZIO40 four output relays http://www.smarthome.com/smartenit-ezio4o-insteon-4-output-relay-load-controller.html A small amplified speaker You could have custom recorded messages such as "The garage door has been opened" or "Motion detected in the back yard" etc.... Does this sound like it would work? I don't see why not. Any thoughts or comments?

Yep, that only worked for about 2 hours. Tried a PLM restore to no avail. New PLM will arrive Saturday.

Unplugged the PLM for 10 seconds and plugged it back in. Problem solved. Think I need to order a backup tomorrow just in case. Thanks for the help!!

I've never done a PLM restore. Is it as simple as going into the admin console and hitting Restore PLM?

PLM status shows connected PLM links table is empty Dang.....

I looked at the error log but it doesn't mean anything to me. I cleared the log and then tried again. This is what it shows. Time User Code Message Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:07 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28-5] 70.110.73.252:45116->8008 Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:07 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28]: POST[1]-->/services Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:07 PM System -170001 <s:Envelope><s:Body><u:UDIService xmlns:u="urn: Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:15 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28-5] 70.110.73.252:22746->8008 Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:15 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28]: POST[1]-->/services Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:15 PM System -170001 <s:Envelope><s:Body><u:UDIService xmlns:u="urn: Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:27 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28-5] 70.110.73.252:44997->8008 Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:27 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28]: POST[1]-->/services Wed 2015/10/28 01:11:27 PM System -170001 <s:Envelope><s:Body><u:GetErrorLog xmlns:u="urn Wed 2015/10/28 01:13:27 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28-5] 70.110.73.252:29566->8008 Wed 2015/10/28 01:13:27 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28]: POST[1]-->/services Wed 2015/10/28 01:13:27 PM System -170001 <s:Envelope><s:Body><u:GetSystemTime xmlns:u="u Wed 2015/10/28 01:14:07 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28-5] 70.110.73.252:49932->8008 Wed 2015/10/28 01:14:07 PM System -170001 [HTTP:0-28]: POST[1]-->/services

Hey guys, I just tried logging into my system remotely and none of my devices are responding. I tried controlling them through the admin console and also through MobiLinc. If I view the event log I can see that the commands were sent out but I don't see any status reply from the device. I'm not at home right now so I'll have to wait until I get home from work to trouble shoot. Any ideas where to start? Thanks, Chris

iRule can set variables, but I was just using that as an example for outside control. Could be MobiLinc, eKeypad, etc........ It would be better to detect the change within the ISY and set the variable accordingly.

Thinking this through. If I control one of the fans through iRule then the Fanlinc will be out of sync with the state variable and the next button press won't produce the expected results. So my thought is to make 4 programs to monitor fan status and change variable to correct value upon status change. Does that sound right? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Will Echo control Sonos or Nest? I don't think it will. I'm not current on the Hue control, but doesn't that require a raspberry pie running a hue emulator? Sonos can be done, but it takes some computer and programming skills to get it working. See my write up here http://forum.universal-devices.com/index.php?/topic/14920-How-to-control-SONOS-streaming-radio-stations Nest set points can easily be done by having the ISY send an email to IFTT. You can't query the current temp or SP and you can't set occupied/away. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Larry I think I can make that work. I just had in the back of my head that it was possible with a scene but now that I think about it I guess not. Thanks again.

I bought some fanlincs for the patio with a KPL for control. I thought there was a way to control fan speed using one button to toggle through the speeds but I can't seem to find any info on how to do this. Is this possible?

Still need to see the wires inside the junction box that is above the gold mounting bracket.

The wiring under the fan cowling is irrelevant. It looks like that is a photo of the lower part of the fan between the motor and the light kit. That is part of the wiring for the fan motor and light and has nothing to do with the house wiring. You need to drop the entire fan and look at the wiring in the junction box located above the fan in the ceiling. Hopefully there are only 4 wires in the J box, 2 black and 2 white. If there are more wires then things get much more complicated.

Just disconnect the white wire from the switch at the fan junction box and connect it to the neutral line. You will not be able to control a physical load with the KPL but you can still control the light and the fan speeds through the FanLinc.

Perfect solution, I never thought of that. Duh.

That is a switch leg. Both are hot. I know they make a dimmer for use without a neutral but not sure about a KPL

Yes, when a folder condition is no longer true the programs within will terminate and not allow the else statement to run. So just attach whichever commands you need to the remote link off or on buttons. In other words, whatever else commands do not activate just have them run when you press the away button of the remote link.

I don't know why the else wouldn't run when contained in a folder. I'm not the best programmer, so maybe I'm missing something? You also have to disable all of your "Home Mode" programs otherwise they will conflict with your "Vacation Mode" programs. My feeble brain thinks it would be quite easy to do what you are asking with 3 simple things. 1) Create a folder for Home Mode enabled by $.Home.Away=0. Put all of your normal programs inside. 2) Create a folder for Vacation Mode enabled by $.Home.Away=1. Put vacay programs in here. 3) Create a program that is triggered by the OFF control of the remote link. This program will set $.Home.Away=0 and also insert any clean up commands such as turning off certain lights or adjusting set points on T-stats. I'm sure all of the ISY gurus will shoot my idea full of holes on why this wouldn't work, so shoot away guys.........

You can put the MS and light together in a scene and then adjust the on level of the scene using a program.

Correct, I have both switches wired in parallel to the load and both switches are in a scene. Without placing them into a scene together then it would not work.

Correct, light bulb burned out, both switches went totally dead.

The 2-wire dimmer can in fact be used in a 3-way configuration. I just replaced the light bulb and it's working perfectly, as it has been for the last 6 months or so. I'm confident in my wiring skills and made sure to verify wiring scheme during installation of the dimmers. If I'm not mistaken, it is illegal to use white for a current carrying conductor in any situation, although I know in the case of 3-way switches many times that's what you find. The proper way to do it is to use phasing tape to mark the white wire at both ends, but I think even that practice has been outlawed in the NEC. Anyhoo..... It was just the bulb. Next time I'll know to check that first.

I don't remember how I wired the switches, but I'm guessing I connected both switches to the load. I've never really given much thought to how the 2-wire dimmers work without a neutral, but from the comments above I see that you must have a load. They must send a small amount of current through the bulb even when it is off? In light of this, I'm thinking the most obvious (and easiest) solution is a burned out bulb? Could it really be that easy? I hope so.