stusviews

Why do you consider that a risk and not a feature?

Select each device in the scene one-by-one and ensure that both the on-level and ramp rate are correct.

Either the SH Hub or a version of 5+.

There's no way to prevent a scene from turning off, but the 2844-222 does have an On only option.

If Control MS is set ON will execute Then and Control MS is not set Off will execute Else

Plugging a device such as a TV into a filter will accomplish nothing unless you can show that the TV is causing a problem. That's easy. Unplug the TV. It must be unplugged, just turning it off is inadequate. If a particular communication problem is cured, then a filter is called for. Otherwise, not. But also check separately the soundbar and other peripherals. None of my Fire TVs are a problem. Also, I've been running a Grunfos recirculator pump without a filter for years with no problems.

No, Else will not run because there is no condition that will execute it. In fact, not even Then will execute because a scene has no state.

Select a brief program. Disable it. Recreate the program form scratch, Do not copy. That's the reason for starting with a brief program. Execute "Run Then." Any success? If so, trigger the program. What's the result?

Ha, I completely missed that one. There are three logins for Amazon, the sales web site, the computer app and the one you came up against, the smartphone app which I didn't describe. For that, tap on the menu bars (top, left), select Settings. Scroll to the bottom and tap on SIGN OUT.

Amazon will always default to the last account that you logged into. That doesn't matter is you logged in at the website or the Alexa app. If your last login was at Amazon.com, then click on Account for current_account_name and select, Switch Accounts (top, right, below your name). OTOH, if you were logged on to the Alexa app last, then select, Not your_login_name (bottom of left side panel).

Info only: whether a plug (or receptacle) is 2-prong or 3-prong is independent of the voltage or amperage. A 2-prong device has two conductors, line and neutral. A 3-prong device adds a ground wire. Although it's true that 3-prong devices are usually used on devices that have a higher ampere rating, the only purpose of the ground is safety. The suggestion by lilyoyo1 to use a 3-prong power strip is a practical and easy solution.

There is nothing about your query that's in any way inconvenient for me. The fact that you were successful makes the time I spent very worthwhile. Fun, too

I'm not sure why you need closure for both the NO and NC contacts on the I/O Linc. Won't activating the C-1 relay contacts cause the I/O Linc to complete the circuit between NO and COM which, in turn, turns on the LEDs? And if closing the relay on the I/O Linc turns on the LEDs, then why do you need a program for that?

Adding a device to the portal and adding a device to the Alex app are entirely different. In particular, Alexa can't discover a device that's not added to the portal first. So, which is actually the problem you are experiencing, adding the device to the portal or adding it to the Alexa app? And which Alexa app, the one for a computer or the smartphone app?

In virtually any installation, communication is not constant. Often a particular time frame is less reliable than other times. Changing the On and/or Off times helps detect such instances. Changing the trigger time for everything is often a time saver. If you can get reliable performance at any other time then the times you are using now, then it's a communication problem, not the PLM not the ISY. What you do next depends on if you can achieve reliable performance at any particular time.

How are you integrating the IR beam sensor with the ISY? Why are you using an I/O Linc at all? What triggers the I/O Linc?

What are the loads. incandescent, LED, CFL, transformer, something else? Be specific. Which Insteon controller(s)? Again, be specific. In the interim, change the on and off times by a wide margin, for example by 30 minutes or more. Or even have both On and Off occur during the day when it's convenient to observe the result. Any success?

lilyoyo1. you gave sound advice. It may sound crazy, but not waiting until the final lengthy beep stops sounding is the most common error.

Concerning the stairs, I use Insteon motion sensors (the original) in locations precisely where it's important the the light turns on instantly. A second later is too late. The MS is set to send On-commands only. Also, the MS is set to Night Only. If you're using more than one sensor, then each must be set to those conditions. I set the Darkness sensitivity to 5. You may want a different value. A program turns the light off. But, I don't get why you need to set the local level to 0% at all.

Post an errant program (right click on the program name, select, "Copy to ClipBoard."

Are you setting the On-level at the device or a scene? Whichever you're using try the other.

No, I'm asking about the specific question you posed about the bedroom light. Actually trying it may give you an answer.

Were you able to confirm that it worked?

If something is changing during the Wait that causes the If to become False, then the program will cancel. A safer approach is to use two programs. Program 1 If From Sunset - 20 minutes To Sunrise + 20 minutes (next day) And Control 'garage sensor-Sensor' is switched On Then Set Scene 'Sc Garage Lights' 100% Set Scene 'Sc Front Floods' 100% Set 'LR Desk Lamp' 100% Run Program 2 (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Program 2 (disabled) If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Wait 5 minutes Set Scene 'Sc Front Floods' Off Set Scene 'Sc Garage Lights' Off Wait 5 minutes Set 'LR Desk Lamp' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

If the lights are not incandescent, then line noise is possible. The first troubleshooting test is to right click on the program and select "Run Then." What's the result? BTW, closing the garage door prior to 5 minutes will end the program.