stusviews

I did spend nearly a decade and a half as a Class A Journeyman electrician in NYC (Local 3, IBEW) which required four years of formal classroom training, so I write with real life experience. Here's a couple more references to "legs" http://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/13105/are-both-legs-of-a-homes-power-supply-equally-used https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AwrT6VulbbxUaV4ATWclnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTEzcjc5ZW45BHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDOQRjb2xvA2dxMQR2dGlkA1lIUzAwMl8x?qid=20071213081747AAsIFdh and a remark about "phases" http://www.ccontrolsys.com/w/Two_Phase_Electrical_Service

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_wiring_in_North_America

Have you tried replacing the Cat5 cable?

I refer to the lines as legs because the electric supply is single-phase. As such, calling them phases is actually incorrect. Another term for legs is "sides," usually labeled side A and side B. The opposite legs (or sides) of the single-phase electric supply are 180º out-of-phase with each other, that is, at any instant the flow of current in one leg is in the opposite direction from the other leg. In the America's, the direction of the current flow changes 60 times per second (60Hz), thus it's referred to as alternating current (AC) as opposed to direct current (DC) where the direction never changes. A phase-coupler bridges the opposite legs of the single-phase electric supply. There was two-phase electric power that was phased out (pun intended) during the early 1900's. Currently, a few rural areas and the city of Philadelphia are the only places where two-phase power exists. BTW, two-phase power has both two line wires and two neutral wires. IMHO, once someone is aware of the correct terminology, they should use it

Is the 40 amp breaker a single-pole or double-pole breaker? Double-pole breakers are those that are two circuit breakers yoked together.

None of my posts even implied connecting an Insteon device to the 40 amp breaker, none!!!

The Insteon device is not wired to the 40 amp breaker. It is wired to the same leg of electric supply as is the panel that the 40 amp breaker supplies. I am familiar with the National Electric Code (NEC) as well as the Canadian Electric Code (CSA). What I am suggesting is in compliance with both codes.

A 40 amp breaker does not mean that it will "push" 40 amps into any connected device. If that were true, then your 100 or 200 amp service would 'blow up" everything connected to it that couldn't handle 100 or 200 amps. A 40 amp breaker means that it can support up to a 40 amp load. The same confusion exists with non-powered speakers. A 100 watt (non-powered) speaker will not output 100 watts of sound if it's connected to a 30 watt amplifier. The rating means it can handle up to a 100 watt amplifier. All you need to do is power any dual-band device from the same leg of the split, single-phase electric supply at each end (panel) of the run.

"To" must be later than "From." What kind of variable is $cTrue?

You don't need a 40 amp device. All insteon devices repeat the powerline signal. Install any Insteon device such as an In-LineLinc on the circuit of concern in/at the panel. Cap the load wire. BTW, only one wire is permitted to be under a circuit breaker screw, but you can pigtail that one wire to the Insteon and the load (circuit). Where does the 8 AWG cable terminate? AFAIK, there are no Insteon boosters. The product called BoosterLinc is for X10 only.

At those distances, the signal is most likely powerline only. What are the devices being controlled? Are you using only scenes to control them or are there programs? What else is connected to those circuits?

Our HVAC has a zone panel. Each zone has/requires a wired thermostat. Other than being home automation enabled, the Insteon thermostats function as any programmed thermostat does. The ISY has control of those thermostats. For example, we have a "Dine Out" button that turns off most of the house lights, turns on a few and also turns off the zones. When a wireless thermostat is linked to the wired thermostat it duplicates all of the wired thermostat's functions except that it can have its own programming. Either thermostat can be the Master, but that has to be set at the thermostat itself. An important use is when the wired thermostat is not located correctly. When attached to a wall, it is indistinguishable from the wired thermostat. It also has a table stand. We don't use them that way. We use them as HVAC remote controls, so when we're watching a movie, for example, or having dinner, there's no need to walk to the thermostat to change the setting. Ahh, home automation BTW, each wired thermostat can be managed by only up to two wireless thermostats, so we also use RemoteLincs as HVAC remotes, sans display.

CONTROL requires the the device itself issue the signal. The device will issue the signal every time, no matter the state of the device. STATUS will issue the command only if the state of the device changes. But any device (i.e., controller) can change the state. It does not have to be the device itself.

I didn't add them to the ISY. They function as a remote control only. No matter which is the master, wired or wireless, the ISY reads only the zoned wired thermostat. That's what suits our specific needs. There's no need to use devices as they were intended--well, load does matter. For example, we have a standalone wireless thermostat for the bedroom fireplace. If we linked the wireless thermostat to the wired thermostat, as it is meant to be, then we would no longer have thermostatic control of the fireplace.

Yes, all but one of our wireless thermostats are used as remotes for the HVAC. The exception is a standalone for a fireplace.

I use a 2441ZTH as a remote for the wired thermostat. Although the (zone 1) wired thermostat is added to the ISY, the wireless thermostat is not.

The red exclamation mark indicates a communication problem. There are many things that can interfere, even if they weren't before. Electronics devices do age. What else is on that circuit? Try powering the I/O Linc from another part of the house using a long extension cord.

Disconnect/remove the PoE network switch.

The I/O Linc is powerline only. The red exclamation mark indicates a communication problem. What else is on that circuit? Do you have any dual-band devices on the same circuit as the I/O Linc.

The program apostolakisl posted runs as you want

Yes, the sequence of events will be reversed. Turning off a device that's already off is like pressing the channel2 button on your TV remote when the TV is already on channel 2. The IR signal will be sent, but nothing will happen. But, in your example the lights would turn on a 7:00 PM and remain on until 6:30 PM the next day, then turn off until the sunset program runs. BTW, you can have the off time in the sunset program to be 1 ½ hrs. after sunset.

Suppose you could create two scenes with the same controller. Then you turn the scene on (e.g., press a button or paddle). Which scene would run? But, f you want that same controller to do something different based one or more conditions, then you can accomplish that using programs.

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/15025-organizational-structure-question/

Over time, outside temperature can increase, in which case the heater would not need to run as long as if the outside temperature decreased in which case it would need to run longer. So the starting outside temperature is meaningless--except to start the heating process. In other words, consider that the heater starts at a particular outside temperature and runs for a specified time. Over that time, the outside temperature decreases rapidly. By the time the schedule has elapsed, the interior is still way below what you intended it to be. Isn't the interior temperature the goal?

Any particular reason you don't want the heater on until a certain minimum temperature is reached rather than for a particular length of time?