stusviews

Info only: If the HVAC is heating or cooling, setting the fan to Auto will not turn the fan off.

That worked

Consensus is actually all over the place. Well, actually in two directions. EricK is correct. If speed is of the essence, nothing is faster that a scene. But, you then depend on the characteristics of the Motion Sensor, for example, light/dark sensing and on duration, both of which require writing to the device. A program allows you to schedule when the MS is active and easily change the duration as needed and even include conditions of your choice. Keep it green in '15

Resetting the timer for the Motion Sensor is done using the options menu, not through programming.

I just tried it and although the display indicated Celsius, the ISY did not. Perhaps in version 5?

The ISY does not offer that option. You'll have to change from ºF to ºC manually. The Owner's Manual has instructions.

If the switch has a detent, that is, push it in and it stays in, push again and it pops out, then you need to set the I/O Linc to latching mode.

That was easy

If you are able to get at all three switch contacts, then you would need three relays to replicate those functions using an ISY. That requires three I/O Lincs. Smartenit has a 4-relay device, but I have no experience with that device. Neither a SynchroLinc nor a Micro Module is appropriate. I was not able to find any documentation for the remote, only for the fan. That manual doesn't even mention the remote. Keep it green in '15

Yes. I prefer a Micro Module for any wire-in On/Off situation. A SynchroLinc is the choice when a devices is always drawing some current, that is, anything controlled using an IR or RF remote. There's another concern here. Whole house fans are usually thermostatically controlled. Switches are sometimes added to turn off the fan, but the switch has to be on for automatic control. superjuice, with that in mind, provide more details about your whole house fan, brand, model(s), etc. Keep it green in '15

Here's a few: Devices A red circle with a diagonal indicates that the device is disabled. A red exclamation mark indicates that there is a communication problem. A green 1011 is waiting for updates to be written. Programs A green bar next to a program name indicates that the program evaluated as true, but is not running. If the symbol is solid green, then the program is running at that time (THEN is being executed). A red bar next to a program name indicates that the program evaluated as false, but is not running. If the symbol is solid red, then the program is running at that time (ELSE is being executed). A disabled program has a red circle at the bottom right. Program Folders Folders with conditions have a red bar if the condition is false.

Clif, you haven't responded to the query about what home automation devices you already have, if any.

Just because you paid a lot for something you don't need or want is no reason to keep it. Take our time share, for example--please!

I don't get it. What is it-specifically-about the Insteon thermostat makes it "more energy efficient" than others, for example an Aube, Nest or Venstar thermostat? If not those, then which thermostat is less efficient? Why?

Doesn't every thermostat do that? Isn't that the purpose of a thermostat? Or are you just posting an advertisement?

Turn the propriety RF on so that it's always on. Use the Synchrolinc as the only controller.

Each ISY manages different devices, so I have no need to pass parameters between the two.

You do not need the ISY IR module to use an Insteon IRLinc, neither for the transmitter nor the receiver. But, the is a special technique for adding either. Click on Link Management.

More likely you have seen IF X10 A10 = ON And X10 A10 = NOT OFF I don't know why, but I've found some instances where the program ran more reliability. Keep it green in '15

1. Yes. I actually have a few controllers and a few responders. I also use a BuzzLinc as a responder to door movement. 2. I've never had to reset any of my seven I/O Lincs due to a power loss. I do a lot of power on and off. 3. Most garage door operators do not have separate up, down and stop. Each time you send the same command to a garage door opener, it responds differently. Click to open-if it's closed. But the same click closes the garage door if it's open. Or stops it if it's moving. Momentary A replicates that action. Send an On and it opens if it's closed. The same On closes the door if it's closed and stops the door if it's moving. With Momentary A you can choose if you want an Insteon On to do that or an Insteon Off to do that. With Momentary C, the I/O Linc pays attention to the sensor, so you can have, for example On open the door and Off close it. I prefer Momentary B. 4. The older the operator, the more likely that the kit will support it. Modern operators have gotten much more sophisticated, they keep time , allow you to post messages and even more. If there is a two-wire button available, then definitely yes. If not, then post the model of the operator and, especially, the wall remote. Some posters have soldered wires to a hand held remote and connected those to the I/O Linc. Keep it green in '15

Testing a variable on start up gives a choice of Then or Else. Keep it green in '15

Any new condition requires another program. Low Oxygen Progam If Low Oxygen Then wait run next program Next Program If Low Oxygen Then wait run next next program Next next program If Purge boiler not clear Then Master Trip fuel The next and next next programs should be disabled so that they run only if the Low Oxygen program runs. Once a program is started it will run to completion. The program doesn't wait for the next one to start. Add a wait delays starting of the next program. If the first one completes before the next one starts, then they won't run concurrently. Do you mean that the programs should run sequentially? If so, then the wait states are appropriate. If each step takes x and the wait is less than x, then the programs will run sequentially and concurrently. Keep it green in '15

Yes it is possible to use more that one ISY concurrently. In fact, I am using two. Keep it green in '15

Actually only one filter is needed. The filter is rated for 120 or 240 volt devices. Keep it green in '15

Powerline communication is more reliable that RF. In any case, ensure that you have at least one dual-band device near the Open/Close Sensor. BTW, an I/O Linc can also operate most garage doors. Keep it green in '15