stusviews

See #13 See post #13

If your OutleLinc is a dimmer, then it's dual-band. The On/Off OutletLinc is not.

I don't know what you are doing wrong because I don't know what you are doing. Yes, it is possible to set the brightness level for each device in a scene.

The INSTEON thermostat is RF. I had one Leak Sensor that stopped sending heartbeats which resulted in my getting the same messages you're getting (same program), Nothing I did corrected the problem--except replacing the Leak Sensor. BTW, the "defective" Leak Sensor function correctly in every other way. Only the heartbeat stopped. Alive, but no heartbeat--It's an INSTEON zombie

Life left, as io_guy pointed out, is a good interpretation. But if you let a smartphone or tablet, for example, go idle, then the life left is longer than it the device is in use.

The simplest solution is to leave the existing wall switch on. Or you could connect the two wires together and use a blank switch plate. My spouse loves having a RemotLinc nearby to control the fireplace (hey, guys. WAF went way up with this). As a safety, I installed a battery powered thermostat in place of the switch. That limits, absolutely, the maximum heating possible.

Is the KeypadLinc a dimmer? If so, then the Main On/Off buttons include bright and dim ability. If you additionally want to use button 3 & 4 to brighten and dime exclusively, then you'll need to create two programs, one for each function.

The Micro Module is installed in the electric junction box below the fireplace insert. You need to open the bottom panel for access. Press in and release at the top of both sides of the bottom panel.

Make a backup before updating!!!

You can install.use an INSTEON wireless thermostat anyplace and use it to control the Micro Module. Coincidentally, we have a Superior fireplace.

A simple solution is to create a scene that includes each device linked to one KPL button. Button lit, device is on, unlit is off. Link the button as a responder if all you want is an indicator or as a controller to be both an indicator and a controller.

An I/O Linc cannot be used to control power to the transformer. It can be used to switch power between the transformer and the damper motor.

Manipulating the damper has no effect if there's no air flowing through the duct. That's a decision made by the thermostat. So, an I/O Linc can be used to interrupt the low voltage side, but there's still no use for control independent of the thermostat

To what end? There's no use in opening the damper if heating or cooling is not requested or the fan is not running.

Splicing a power cord is not in compliance with the electrical code if the power supply is installed in a ceiling crawl space. In that case, mount the supply to a box that contains a Micro On/Off Module.

Any air duct damper is usually powered on 24/7. Position (open or closed) is handled by the HVAC panel which receives instructions from the thermostat. Power to the damper is also supplied from the panel. If the HVAC system is calling for heating or cooling, then the damper opens, otherwise it closes. A damper with a separate power supply,such as the one you referred to, can be closed independently of the HVAC panel by turning off power to the power supply. You can use any method available that turns power off, even a standard wired switch.

A quick test before attempting diagnostics. Click on the scene and click On. What is the result, both displayed and at the actual devices? What is the result of a scene test? (Right click, Diagnostics)

Another suggestion: The insert requires AC power. You can install a Micro Module in the junction box and control that module with an INSTEON wireless thermostat.

Right click, select Restore Device. You may also want to follow that with Write Updates to Device.

A battery powered programmable thermostat is a possible choice. Too, there's likely a duplex receptacle at the bottom back. It's a tight fit, but accessible. Another choice it to run a pair of conductors from there (below the insert) alongside the wall to a nearby outlet.

I use the same button to open and close the garage door, but if all you want is an indicator, then use a LampLinc or On/Off Module.

Power supplies are rated for the amount of power available. That doesn't mean that any device connected to it will use that much power. So, no, a 50 watt supply is not too much and yes, it's OK to use a power supply with the rating you specified for the thermostat. BTW, it's unusual for a power supply to be rated in watts. The usual rating is amperes. Is it an LED supply?

If you do a factory reset (only do that as a last resort), then restore device will restore all scenes and programs references.

The state of the garage door should be monitored by the sensor, not the relay. That's because the relay contact closure is momentary, so the relay is open when the door is open and it's open when the door is closed. Using a variable set by an INSTEON command could work, but more likely will get out of sync if the garage door occasionally doesn't fully open or close.

Change the mode to 8-button. Continue to use the 6-button frame.The buttons are now A-H. Include buttons A & B as controllers and responders for any scene and in programs. Do the same with buttons G & H for OFF. Also change the button mode for G & H to Non-Toggle-Off. The Main On button will toggle the load.