stusviews

Unless the scene has only responders, it will always function when any controller is operated. You cannot set a scene with one or more controllers to function only at a particular time. You can use a program to change the On-levels of devices in the scene according to schedule. Post the scene. Also name what each specific device is.

Not having a neutral in a switch box is not in any way unsafe. Not having a ground, either through metallic cabling/conduit or a ground wire is considered unsafe. Not having a neutral in a switch box is not an impediment to installing a device with full INSTEON capabilities, only an inconvenience.

Electricity is supplied to homes as a split, single-phase electric supply. About half of the circuits are on each of the two opposite legs or sides (often incorrectly referred to as phases). It wold be very, very unusual to be as off balance as you describe. Are you checking both lighting and receptacle outlets-everywhere?

A FanLinc can certainly handle 150W. If a FanLinc doesn't fit, then Micro Module would work.

Adjust the LED brightness manually. Even easier, if you have a Windows computer, is to use HouseLinc to adjust the brightness. Additionally, for some devices, HouseLinc has options that the ISY does not.

4-button KPLs

Specify the make and model of the humidifier.

For any switch box without a neutral you can simply change a couple of connections, install a SwitchLinc On/Off of dimmer, cap the load wire and install a Micro Module in the ceiling box, thus enabling control of any load. BTW, the On/Off module clicks, the dimmer is silent, so the dimmer is usually the device of choice.

Nope. The 2-wire dimmer functions by 'stealing' power from the load which is why the load should be incandescent. The 2477D does not have that capability.

Opposite legs alternate vertically, but circuit breakers on the same horizontal level are on the same leg. 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 Note: Standard breakers use a 1" space. Half-height breakers alternate legs in pairs (i.e., adjacent breakers are on the same leg). Yoked breakers span both legs.

No, but it's a common complaint. IMO, it should be replaced.

Of the devices you listed, only the following have a possibility of being dual-band: First Floor: PLM 2 x KPLs one on either end of the house 2 x Switchlinc both in the middle of the house LampLinc Dimmer plug in module Second Floor: LampLinc Dimmer plug in module Third Floor: KPL Whether they are, in fact, dual-band depends mostly on when they were purchased. What are each device's type number?

What's the load?

Any dual-band device serves as a range extender for RF. Any INSTEON device at all serves as a powerline range extender.

Any electrical device that's 220/240V powered will adequately bridge the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply. But that doesn't rule out other problems, including communication problems. What is the load? What is the result if you disconnect the load wire?

Dimmers use TRIACs which control the dimness electronically whereas the On/Off devices use a mechanical relay, thus the audible click.

Which specific KPL? All my KPL 6-button dimmers (15) can set both the On-level and ramp rate.

The purpose of the INSTEON LED bulb is to be able to control unswitched lighting or lighting where the switch is inaccessible or inconvenient (e.g., behind furniture) or even in a switched lamp to enable remote control. In any case, it's not meant to be controlled manually. Also, whenever you use the ISY to send a command to a device, only that device responds to the command, not any of its controllers nor any of its responders.

Mine go to a municipal recycler

An active coupler, and a repeater is active, can interfere with the INSTEON signal. (Not all do.) What is the result if you remove the coupler and turn on a 220/240V appliance?

1. http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/production/ISY%20User%20Guide%204.2.8.pdf 2. Devices that need filtering are usually not discovered until the filtering is needed.That is, you have some sort of communication failure. 4. Electricity is provided to homes in North America as a split, single-phase electric supply. The voltage between the opposite leg/sides of the transformer is 220/240VAC. Those legs are commonly, but incorrectly referred to as phases. For the most part, dual-band devices don't need Range Extenders, but if an RF only device is out of range, then a Range Extender is called for. They can even solve some communication difficulties. Again, there's no way to tell in advance. 6. How will anyone else control your INSTEON devices? Some caveats: Don't plug-in or power any INSTEON device from a surge suppressor. Keep known noise makers on a separate circuit. Not all CFL and LED bulbs are equal. Some will behave badly when on an INSTEON dimmer.

As I indicated, every line powered (110/120VAC) item in you home requires one line wire and one neutral wire. That includes all lighting and appliances and electronics. (Some devices are 220/240VAC and don't need a neutral.) A standard switch is not powered, it's only a circuit interrupter. But HA switches are powered devices and, therefore, do need a neutral. (Some HA devices "steal" power from the load and don't need a neutral, but they're designed for incandescent loads only.) You should get a mutlimeter for testing. Even the least expensive model will suffice. You may be doing some testing live. But you can connect the meter with the power off and read the meter after you turn power back on. And there's a bunch of tests that can be done without power.

Yes, the filter is installed inside the electric box. It may not fit with a SwitchLinc. The usual placement is the fixture box. In that case, you should install one in each fixture box that supplies a neon light. BTW, I rarely get personal on a forum, but this brings back a vivid memory. When I was a youngster, my dad was foreman of a neon sign shop and, for one birthday, he had a congratulatory sign made. And there was my name up in flashing neon lights

Or try selecting the 2440 from the drop-down list.

You're unlikely to find an unbiased opinion on this or any forum. That said, there is no doubt that the Pro provides a greater level of security. Here's some reading about the ISY and security: http://www.universal-devices.com/docs/ISY994%20Series%20Network%20Security%20Guide.pdf Regarding your difficulty involving electricity, briefly, electricity is provided to homes in North America as a split, single-phase electric supply. Specifically, the secondary of the power transformer (big gray object on power poles) is center tapped. The voltage between the opposite leg/sides of the transformer is 220/240VAC. The voltage between each leg and the center tap is 110/120VAC. The center tap is the neutral. The opposite legs are the lines. All line voltage devices require one line and a neutral wire. If a device is switched, then only the line is interrupted, so a switch requires only a line wire and a switch return or load wire. The only way to tell is to remove, but not disconnect, the switch. If there are only two wires in the switch box (disregard any ground wire), then there is not a neutral wire. Not to worry, there is a workaround (except that it requires the purchase of two devices instead of only one). If there are more than two wires (again, disregarding any ground wire), then there may be a neutral wire present. If you are comfortable changing a switch or ceiling fixture and can rewire a lamp, then you can install virtually any INSTEON device yourself. Oh, the endorsement. I have more that 100 INSTEON device installed that control indoor and outdoor lighting, motorized gates, garage doors, HVAC, entertainment media, window coverings, cameras, phone and doorbell indicators, even more.