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Everything posted by stusviews
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Nope, no blue at all. Edit: not even when renaming a folder.
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ISY994i/ir pro unresponsive after upgrade to latest firmware
stusviews replied to Clearwater1957's topic in ISY994
I don't understand what that means. -
ISY994i/ir pro unresponsive after upgrade to latest firmware
stusviews replied to Clearwater1957's topic in ISY994
What is the result if you browse to http://isy or, if you assigned a port, then http://isy:port_number -
There's no way to tell in advance where a filter may be needed. A start is to follow the advice already given about electronics on the same circuit as the PLM and ISY. Once you've established the those devices have good communication, then just go ahead and install new devices as desired. If you run into a communication problem, then you can start troubleshooting to determine which electronics needs a filter.
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X10 started in 1975 and licensed that technology to other manufacturers. That protocol, it seems, is still viable, but barely. OTOH, it's not possible to buy a Somfy motor nor RF controller that isn't made by Somfy. They do not license their technology. They've been around for more that 45 years. Nor does Lutron--and they've been around since 1961. INSTEON is not just alive and kicking, they're kicking dust in their competitors faces. And so is U-D! This is a totally biased opinion
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Lee has it right. Status is re-evaluated each time there is a change. So the condition If Status 'Hot Water Pump' is Off evaluates as false as soon as Then Set 'Hot Water Pump' On occurs. Because the statement is false, the program executes Else.
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Depends on why you went in BTW, the set ramp rate is the time it takes to go from off to 100%, not to the brightness level the device is set for. At a 30 second ramp rate, the light will reach 40% in 12 seconds.
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At a 40% On-level with a 30 second ramp rate the light will reach the designated brightness in 12 seconds--because 12 is 40% of 30
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Unless the scene has only responders, it will always function when any controller is operated. You cannot set a scene with one or more controllers to function only at a particular time. You can use a program to change the On-levels of devices in the scene according to schedule. Post the scene. Also name what each specific device is.
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Not having a neutral in a switch box is not in any way unsafe. Not having a ground, either through metallic cabling/conduit or a ground wire is considered unsafe. Not having a neutral in a switch box is not an impediment to installing a device with full INSTEON capabilities, only an inconvenience.
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Electricity is supplied to homes as a split, single-phase electric supply. About half of the circuits are on each of the two opposite legs or sides (often incorrectly referred to as phases). It wold be very, very unusual to be as off balance as you describe. Are you checking both lighting and receptacle outlets-everywhere?
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A FanLinc can certainly handle 150W. If a FanLinc doesn't fit, then Micro Module would work.
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Adjust the LED brightness manually. Even easier, if you have a Windows computer, is to use HouseLinc to adjust the brightness. Additionally, for some devices, HouseLinc has options that the ISY does not.
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Specify the make and model of the humidifier.
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For any switch box without a neutral you can simply change a couple of connections, install a SwitchLinc On/Off of dimmer, cap the load wire and install a Micro Module in the ceiling box, thus enabling control of any load. BTW, the On/Off module clicks, the dimmer is silent, so the dimmer is usually the device of choice.
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Nope. The 2-wire dimmer functions by 'stealing' power from the load which is why the load should be incandescent. The 2477D does not have that capability.
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Opposite legs alternate vertically, but circuit breakers on the same horizontal level are on the same leg. 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 Note: Standard breakers use a 1" space. Half-height breakers alternate legs in pairs (i.e., adjacent breakers are on the same leg). Yoked breakers span both legs.
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No, but it's a common complaint. IMO, it should be replaced.
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Of the devices you listed, only the following have a possibility of being dual-band: First Floor: PLM 2 x KPLs one on either end of the house 2 x Switchlinc both in the middle of the house LampLinc Dimmer plug in module Second Floor: LampLinc Dimmer plug in module Third Floor: KPL Whether they are, in fact, dual-band depends mostly on when they were purchased. What are each device's type number?
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What's the load?
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Any dual-band device serves as a range extender for RF. Any INSTEON device at all serves as a powerline range extender.
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Any electrical device that's 220/240V powered will adequately bridge the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply. But that doesn't rule out other problems, including communication problems. What is the load? What is the result if you disconnect the load wire?
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Dimmers use TRIACs which control the dimness electronically whereas the On/Off devices use a mechanical relay, thus the audible click.
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Which specific KPL? All my KPL 6-button dimmers (15) can set both the On-level and ramp rate.