stusviews

Create a scene where both light controllers are responders only. Create a program that turns the scene on and off (rather than the individual devices). Both devices will operate concurrently.

Do you mean the intensity of the LEDs? Or lit vs. unlit? Which specific devices?

Here's the mini-version.

I agree. But if the only concern, in this particular case, is that I can't restore the device from an ISY record, then I'm OK with that. It's not difficult to rebuild any scenes and if the RemoteLinc fails, there's no direct replacement, so I'd be starting over anyway. BTW, we use seven of these. I'd sure like to see a larger replacement than the Mini Remote.

So, basically not a problem BTW, HL is also unaware of this link.

It's possible to manually link the RemoteLinc All On/All Off buttons as a device controller apart from those devices linked to the buttons. Specifically, the linked device(s) respond to all On or All Off, but not to any individual button. Is there a way to do that using an ISY? If not, then is there any problem with manually linking that button pair?

For most garage doors, the relay operates momentarily, so the status of the relay is useless except to indicate that the garage door is moving (i.e., not open, not closed). We have two garages, so I use two KPL buttons with a red diffuser behind each. The corresponding button is lit when the garage door is open and unlit when closed. The magnetic switch (door position sensor) is open when the door is closed. The I/O Linc sends an On signal to the KPL button when the door starts to open and an Off when it's fully closed. The KPL button is set to Non-toggle On. The I/O Linc is set to momentary B so that no matter if the button is in or out of sync, a single press will always operate the garage door.

Some LEDs buzz with some dimmers. You should be OK with an On/Off INSTEON device.

KPL buttons can be set to always lit or always unlit, but each press causes the LED to blink so it's easy for an observer to determine which button was pushed and in which sequence. The wireless keypad has no specific button light and thus is more secure. Here's a couple of ways we use the wireless keypads: 4-button toggle, controls motorized vertical blinds A-off: close verticals A-on: open verticals B-off: open to point x from closed B-on: open to point x from open C-off: open to point y from closed C-on: open to point y from open D-on or off: stop 8-button non toggle on A-operates walkway gate B-operates driveway gate C-controls garage 1 door D-controls garage 2 door E-controls both garage doors concurrently F-opens driveway gate and keeps it open (i.e., no auto close) G & H-currently unused

edokid, what's the load?

I have several 4-gang and 3-gang boxes with a mix of relays and dimmers with no adverse affects. The only restriction I'm aware of is that the load capacity of a dimmer is reduced when placed next to another dimmer. Check and double check the connections. Does the device work reliably if you remove it from the switch box, but leave it connected?

Using only the middle four buttons, I tried two sequences, (1) using a single finger on one hand to press quickly and (2) alternating two fingers, one on each hand. Each button controls a different scene and I practiced first to build up speed. The first sequence worked every time. The second sequence sent only the first and third signals. Responding to a program would probably be slower.

That would be a SwitchLinc. BTW, I have 4-button KPLs that control three loads (6-button mode) and some that control four loads (8-button mode).

That's correct. What you see is a 6-button, six device KPL.

Any KPL can be placed in 6- or 8-button mode. The main difference is the buttons supplied. However, you can get button sets separately in the event you change the mode. BTW, I prefer the custom etched buttons. Yes, you can get the large ON button to function independent of the large OFF button. Here's how: Place the KPL in 8-button mode, but use the 6-button plate. In any scene involving the large buttons, include both button A & B for the top large button and buttons G & H for the bottom large buttons. I've also made a 4-button KPL using all (four) large buttons.

A low battery can cause that.

I did have motion sensing switches that did that. For that very reason, I replaced them with Lutron devices that resume their motion sensing capabilities when manually turned off. Both a dimmer and relay are available.

Feel free to lose the long descriptive names in favor of text talk. For example, the bathroom mirror light can be BTHMIRLGT, or, since nothing else about the bathroom mirror is automated you can shorten it to BM

Do you mean that it's defective or that it doesn't sense motion when someone turns it off?

After running Restore, try Write Updates to Device.

The airgap reset, as suggested by paulbates, often works. But even if it doesn't you'll be OK as long as you don't delete the device from the ISY. You can try a factory reset and restore the device and, if that doesn't work, you can swap it for another.

X10 modules can be problematic in a home with a lot of electronics. Sometimes it takes a while for the difficulties to appear, such as lights turning on randomly or not working at all. That's often because an electronic device has aged or a particular combination of devices hasn't been on concurrently. The general trend for someone with X10 devices is to replace them with newer technology as they fail. OTOH, X10 modules seem to have a lifespan considerably greater than the latest technologies.

Actually, most people would probably walk into the bathroom and look for the switch there, first.

Both of our bathrooms had switches on the outside wall. It was easy enough the add an old work box on the "correct" side of the wall. Some tips: The existing switch box is attached on one side to a wall stud. There's usually more than a foot of empty space until the next stud. Install the old work box in the empty space offset (i.e., not back-to-back) from the original switch box.

Hmm, nice thing to have next to the bed for an elderly person or anyone with limited mobility or in need of a panic button. Fun thing to have for a youngster returning home or just needing to notify someone. No need to give the babysitter a list of phone numbers. An oddity for technophiles such as we