stusviews

Feel free to lose the long descriptive names in favor of text talk. For example, the bathroom mirror light can be BTHMIRLGT, or, since nothing else about the bathroom mirror is automated you can shorten it to BM

Do you mean that it's defective or that it doesn't sense motion when someone turns it off?

After running Restore, try Write Updates to Device.

The airgap reset, as suggested by paulbates, often works. But even if it doesn't you'll be OK as long as you don't delete the device from the ISY. You can try a factory reset and restore the device and, if that doesn't work, you can swap it for another.

X10 modules can be problematic in a home with a lot of electronics. Sometimes it takes a while for the difficulties to appear, such as lights turning on randomly or not working at all. That's often because an electronic device has aged or a particular combination of devices hasn't been on concurrently. The general trend for someone with X10 devices is to replace them with newer technology as they fail. OTOH, X10 modules seem to have a lifespan considerably greater than the latest technologies.

Actually, most people would probably walk into the bathroom and look for the switch there, first.

Both of our bathrooms had switches on the outside wall. It was easy enough the add an old work box on the "correct" side of the wall. Some tips: The existing switch box is attached on one side to a wall stud. There's usually more than a foot of empty space until the next stud. Install the old work box in the empty space offset (i.e., not back-to-back) from the original switch box.

Hmm, nice thing to have next to the bed for an elderly person or anyone with limited mobility or in need of a panic button. Fun thing to have for a youngster returning home or just needing to notify someone. No need to give the babysitter a list of phone numbers. An oddity for technophiles such as we

I see the limitation now. There's no double-sized button, so a 6-button huge KPL is not possible

Not so. A button can trigger a "scene," such as open the shades, adjust the thermostat, start the coffee, walk the dog. Well. maybe not the last task, but it can open a lock doggy door. All made much easier by pushing a large button--um--bt.tn than navigating a smartphone screen as your first task upon awakening

There will always be a "what if." Life is like that. A goal of HA is to simplify and automate repetitive tasks. But it doesn't always have to be via a program. Here's two examples that i use: 1. Single-gang box swapped out for a 2-gang. One side has a Switchlinc dimmer providing two presets, 50% and full on. The other side has a Lutron motion sensing dimmer set at 25%. Both devices are wired in parallel providing three levels of illumination, 25% when walking through at night, 50% for dining and 100% for cleaning. 2. Single-gang box with a SwitchLinc dimmer in the box and Micro Dimmer in the ceiling box. Both are wired in parallel. An INSTEON Motion Sensor controls the Micro Dimmer, not the SwitchLinc. In both cases, the motion sensor is bypassed when the SwitchLinc dimmer is on at any level greater than the Micro or Lutron dimmer. In other situations, I do use programming as a response to a sensor. But, nearly all programs require fine tuning somewhere down the line. Keep in mind that although certain tasks can be fully automated, others require human intervention. The ISY is not AI. if you haven't started programming, then do it to it!!!

It's real. The button, um, I mean bt.tn makes use of IFTTT which has been around for a while.

Don't we do that now? The only thing I see different is the form factor of the button. For example, I do have a button that controls the window coverings and another that controls the thermostat. They're KPL buttons. And even a program that automatically allows the thermostat to control the window coverings based on the time of day--no button needed. Can't any button or paddle send a text? And the taxi button, just ring a bell at the front desk--or call Uber

Any 24VAC transformer/power supply will work. Connect one terminal of the power supply to 24COM. Connect the other side of the power supply and one of the two existing thermostat wires to 24R. Connect the other thermostat wire to W1.

The great thing about a program is that is always does the same thing so that you don't have to. With few exceptions, it makes no sense to write a program that will only run once because it'll never again be needed. It's also useful to have a program adjust to different conditions. The more conditions imposed, the more complex the program. You added conditions to your original premise. I'm sure you'll think of more. Life is like that. Start simple, eliminate the oft repeated tasks such as those you started with. Then, add the bells and whistles.

Do not create a scene involving the SwitchLinc and the Motion Sensor. Instead, write two programs, one that's scheduled to run form 3pm until 10pm and anther that runs from 10pm until 5am (next day). A condition is that the Motion Sensor sends an On. Both programs should also include the conditions that the (SwitchLinc is Off or is not 100%). Tell the program to Then set the SwitchLinc to the desired level. You'll also need a single program to turn off the lights.

Any functioning device on the verge of a breakdown will do that when stressed. Updating firmware requires a lot of writes. The PLM surrendered.

Which OS are you using?

The fact that you were able to restore to 4.0.5 and everything is working shows that both the PLM ans ISY are okay. The fact that you needed a backup to restore everything shows why a backup is needed-most especially for such a processor intensive and sensitive task. Although unusual, sometimes an update doesn't "take." I'd try again. If you're a bit leery about 4.2.10, try an earlier version, even 4.1. If any upgrade works, then you're ahead. If it doesn't, you have a backup

That depends on your particular situation and what you are controlling. For example, we have an away mode (Dine Out, actually) that turns some lights on and others off immediately, but also has several delayed functions.

FWIW, I don't have any ICON dimmers, but I'm able to use an ICON relay, 2856S, successfully with the ISY.

1. Examine the B button scene. 2. Follow these instructions for "Radio" buttons. 3. If you want On and/or Off to operate independently, then use a program instead of a scene.

I find the program runs successfully using integer variables.

Goodnight mode can be accomplished using scenes. That mode (dim lighting) becomes the default. Create an Away variable that has an initial value of 0. Create a program for each sensor that turns the responder on to 100%. Include the condition that the Away variable is equal to one. Create two programs, Away which sets the variable to 1 and Home which set it to 0. Motion Sensor Program(s) If Control 'Your motion sensor' is switched On And $Away is 1 Then Set 'Your responder' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Away If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then $Away = 1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Run the Away program when you leave and the Home program when you return. The lights will immediately come on dim the go to full on when in Away mode due to the slight delay when running a program as opposed to a link. Alternatively, you can set the variable level from the HTML (web) interface.

A variable can be used as a virtual device. What do you intend to use to trigger the Goodnight and Away modes?