stusviews

http://www.dataloggerinc.com/categories/Refrigerator_and_Freezer_Monitoring_Systems/54/

Control is true at the instant that the device being queried changes state either manually or by a direct command. Status is true no matter how the state of the device is changed, for example, via a scene or even if the program itself changes the state.

Whatever you do do not use the existing wire for 110/120VAC. The low voltage thermostat/control wire insulation does not have the dielectric strength required for line voltage. Aside from not being in compliance with the electrical code, you may start a fire in the wall.

That's a common problem on newer KPLs. A solution is to use a program such as the one EricK linked to (#3). You'll need to create a scene that has the button as a responder and control the scene because keypad secondary buttons cannot be controlled using a direct command. Here's part of a program I use: If Control 'DR / Devices / DR Side Door KPL / DR Side Door B Dine Out' is switched Off Or Control 'LR / Devices / LR Ceiling Light KPL 20 / LR Light KPLD Dine Out' is switched Off Then Wait 2 seconds Set Scene 'Dine Out Buttons' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Other than that some parts of earth get dark later this time of year, a whole house surge suppressor should be in your immediate future

All controls need to be INSTEON compatible devices. You cannot use any of the two existing 3-way nor the one 4-way switch at all. The good news is that you have the wiring in place, but you'll need to change some connections. If you replace each existing switch with a 6-button KeypadLinc, then you'll be able to control both the fan and light from each location. In any case, at least one device should be a KPL.

Create a scene with the sensor as a controller and the light as a responder. You'll need to use a program for the X10 device.

The Micro Module can switch line voltage. It has no dry contact capability as does the I/O Linc. The Micro Module is a wired device. The I/O Linc is a plug-in device. See their respective sales pages and Owner's Manuals for a better understanding of what each does. I/O Linc Micro On/Off Module

See #13 See post #13

If your OutleLinc is a dimmer, then it's dual-band. The On/Off OutletLinc is not.

I don't know what you are doing wrong because I don't know what you are doing. Yes, it is possible to set the brightness level for each device in a scene.

The INSTEON thermostat is RF. I had one Leak Sensor that stopped sending heartbeats which resulted in my getting the same messages you're getting (same program), Nothing I did corrected the problem--except replacing the Leak Sensor. BTW, the "defective" Leak Sensor function correctly in every other way. Only the heartbeat stopped. Alive, but no heartbeat--It's an INSTEON zombie

Life left, as io_guy pointed out, is a good interpretation. But if you let a smartphone or tablet, for example, go idle, then the life left is longer than it the device is in use.

The simplest solution is to leave the existing wall switch on. Or you could connect the two wires together and use a blank switch plate. My spouse loves having a RemotLinc nearby to control the fireplace (hey, guys. WAF went way up with this). As a safety, I installed a battery powered thermostat in place of the switch. That limits, absolutely, the maximum heating possible.

Is the KeypadLinc a dimmer? If so, then the Main On/Off buttons include bright and dim ability. If you additionally want to use button 3 & 4 to brighten and dime exclusively, then you'll need to create two programs, one for each function.

The Micro Module is installed in the electric junction box below the fireplace insert. You need to open the bottom panel for access. Press in and release at the top of both sides of the bottom panel.

Make a backup before updating!!!

You can install.use an INSTEON wireless thermostat anyplace and use it to control the Micro Module. Coincidentally, we have a Superior fireplace.

A simple solution is to create a scene that includes each device linked to one KPL button. Button lit, device is on, unlit is off. Link the button as a responder if all you want is an indicator or as a controller to be both an indicator and a controller.

An I/O Linc cannot be used to control power to the transformer. It can be used to switch power between the transformer and the damper motor.

Manipulating the damper has no effect if there's no air flowing through the duct. That's a decision made by the thermostat. So, an I/O Linc can be used to interrupt the low voltage side, but there's still no use for control independent of the thermostat

To what end? There's no use in opening the damper if heating or cooling is not requested or the fan is not running.

Splicing a power cord is not in compliance with the electrical code if the power supply is installed in a ceiling crawl space. In that case, mount the supply to a box that contains a Micro On/Off Module.

Any air duct damper is usually powered on 24/7. Position (open or closed) is handled by the HVAC panel which receives instructions from the thermostat. Power to the damper is also supplied from the panel. If the HVAC system is calling for heating or cooling, then the damper opens, otherwise it closes. A damper with a separate power supply,such as the one you referred to, can be closed independently of the HVAC panel by turning off power to the power supply. You can use any method available that turns power off, even a standard wired switch.

A quick test before attempting diagnostics. Click on the scene and click On. What is the result, both displayed and at the actual devices? What is the result of a scene test? (Right click, Diagnostics)