Traditore

I have automated my Yamaha A/V receiver with the IRLinc Transmitter. Here's an example: One of my scenes uses a KPL secondary button to turn on my receiver (zone 3) and set it to the tuner input so I can listen to the radio. This works just fine. When I don't want to listen to the radio anymore, I push the same KPL button and the following program activates another scene which sets my receiver to an unused input AV6 (for resetting purposes) and turns off the receiver. If Status '0F.D2.D9.1/Garage / 0F.D2.D9.G/BOB FM' is On And Control '0F.D2.D9.1/Garage / 0F.D2.D9.G/BOB FM' is switched Off Then Set Scene 'Zn3 Input Reset and Power Off' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') So far, so good. Don't know if it's the best way to go, but it works. Also, I can use MobiLinc Pro to turn on my scene, but I can't turn it off because I'm not physically pushing the button on the KPL. So I added a line to my program: If Status '0F.D2.D9.1/Garage / 0F.D2.D9.G/BOB FM' is On And Control '0F.D2.D9.1/Garage / 0F.D2.D9.G/BOB FM' is switched Off [b]Or Control '0F.D2.D9.1/Garage / 0F.D2.D9.G/BOB FM' is not switched On [/b] Then Set Scene 'Zn3 Input Reset and Power Off' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Now MobiLinc does what the KPL button does, but it feels like I'm cheating or not doing it optimally. Is there a better way to go?

I knew I read that somewhere. Thanks guys.

And I can't find the post where I originally found out about this "feature". How does one turn off the backlight for the off button on a KPL?

This needs to be updated a little. 1.) The latest ELK-M1G Firmware version is 5.1.20. If you have a GE manufactured wireless receiver (Caddx NX) connected to the ELK-M1G then use firmware version 4.5.20. 3.) The ELK-M1XEP Ethernet Module firmware version is 1.2.14 and Bootware version 1.1.4.

Yes. I know about the new load sensing connection from a previous topic. Thanks.

Another excerpt from the Owner's Manual: I don't know if "0.2" is to interpreted as 0.2 seconds or 0.2 hours. Probably the former.

How old is "new"? SmartHome's docs don't even mention the air gap switch for relays.

The IOL sensor can be on or off whether the door is opened or closed. It all depends on the way the IOL is configured. From what I read here, quite a few people (myself included) prefer to have the IOL sensor ON when the door is opened and OFF when the door is closed. It seems logical. Most of the time, the IOL relay will be OFF but for 2 seconds when it is operating. I agree with you. The wiki is confusing. I chose not to use the Toggle Button Mode option. When I press my KPL button, the door opens and the LED turns on, when I press it again, the door closes and the LED turns off. It's the same when I use the remote in my car or the garage door transmitter on the wall. The sensor sends its state to the KPL button. Following your post, I tested my door's obstruction sensor and everything is working fine. I can confirm that after the IOL timeout, the door will recognize the obstruction and start moving upwards. Yes. It is is much longer than the usual near-instantaneous response of the door's usual behavior. I think that the ISY can't set the timeout to anything shorter than 2 seconds because the IOL has a momentary duration ranging from 2 to 25 seconds. So don't blame the little black box. (: Here's my setup: -red wire (from magnetic contact sensor) to IOL's sense -green wire (from magnetic contact sensor) to IOL's ground -one wire to IOL's common terminal and garage door motor -on wire to IOL's N/O terminal and garage door motor When my garage door is open, the Sensor Status LED on the IOL is on. And it's off when the door is closed. In my ISY, I have scene in which the KPL button is a controller and the relay is a responder. Options for the relay are set at "LED on TX", "Momentary: A" and "Momentary: Both". I hope this helps.

I wanted to reset a SLR using the air gap reset procedure. But I didn't work. When I pulled out the Set button, the power was not removed from the switch and the load stayed on. When I referred to the Owner's Manual, I found no mention of the air gap switch. Instead, there was a different procedure to factory reset the SLR (holding the paddle for 10 seconds, tapping, releasing and pushing the Set button for 10 seconds). I followed it and it went fine. It seems that the SLR differs from the SLD, the KPL Dimmer and even the KPL Relay as far as resetting a device is concerned. Those last three devices do use the air gap switch for a reset. What's weird is that I have 5 other SLRs (3 x v.35, 2 x v.2B) and their air gap switch works. I did not try to factory reset them. I just wanted to see if the power was cut, and it is indeed. So, do you think my first SLR (v.28) is somewhat faulty? It seems to works fine otherwise.

Well, that must have been the time that was wrong because the new program I just created works. Even better than before because the load does not go up to a 100% before going down to the lower On Level. Thanks for you patience, Tim. I hope I'll remember this Adjust Scene stuff later on.

Really can't remember. So I'll start fresh with a new program.

I did just the same and it doesn't work. If From 5:00:00AM To 11:59:00PM (same day) Then In Scene '0E.3A.00.1' Set '0E.3A.00.1' 30% (On Level) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') My dimmer 0E.3A.00.1 is part of a test scene as a controller (there are no responders) and is not linked to any other device, nor is it part of another program. I'm just baffled.

No reason, I guess. I'll consider using a slower ramp rate once most of my stuff is installed. Fine-tuning is kinda low on my list of priorities right now. That's what I thought, but I just wanted to make sure that it's normal ISY/Insteon behavior. Now, I'm gonna see if I can get Tim's method to work.

I tried fitzpatri8's way and it works. But there is a slight delay (a little over 1s) before the load goes up to full brightness, even though the ramp rate [applied locally] is set at 0.1s (but I guess it doesn't apply here, right?). Maybe this delay is normal because I had a similar delay with the program I mentioned in my original post. Is it odd that I don't have the option to go to a 100%? The drop-down list seems to stop at 99%. There is probably no noticeable difference between 99 and a 100, so it's not a big deal. But theoretically, I think that using "Set '0E.3A.00.1/SDB' Fast On" would put the load at a 100%. TJF1960's way now... For starters, I set the On Level [applied locally] back to a 100% because I had changed it to test fitzpatri8's suggestion. But this "Adjust Scene" program does not work for me. I really don't know why. I even tried it on 3 different dimmers. Could I be doing something wrong? I have to say that I never would have thought of doing it this way because 0E.3A.00.1/SDB is a device, not a scene. Sub-Routine, What's the content of your Scene "Basement Stairs Low"? I understand that your dimmer is off and that when you press off, it actually goes on to a low level. That's probably not the way I'm going to go with this switch (my friends and relatives would go crazy! and I'd be laughing my a** off), but I'm glad you showed me a different logic to doing it.

Is it possible to choose the On Level (of a dimmer) only during a certain time of the day? The best I can think of so far is this: If From 11:00:00PM To 5:00:00AM (next day) And Control '0E.3A.00.1/SDB' is switched On Then Set '0E.3A.00.1/SDB' 40% Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') But that program does not achieve what I want, because the load starts at 100 % and the goes down to 40%. Can my dimmer start directly at 40%?

If you search for "piggybacking" in the forums, you'll read that some people have plugged in an Access Point in their PLM to solve communication issues they were having. I don't remember all the particulars, though.

Nah. If I'm in the playroom with the kids and it gets cold, I wanna be able to push that button! I'm too lazy to walk all the way back to the KPL. The OL is probably a good compromise.

I figured dimming the LL would increase or decrease the heat... Just kidding! I'm especially worried they might push the set button. Technically, if I route the extension cord carefully, I could put the tabletop enclosure out of reach of the young ones. I figure the ceiling is high enough. I hadn't even thought about that. It might be the best way to go. Load sensing? What? I've just tested my two ALs and manually turned on and off their respective load (ceramic heater and CFL lamp). My ALs don't exhibit the behavior you mention. I don't have any LLs nor OLs. As long as it makes it difficult for the kids to turn on the heater, I could very well do without the broadcast on status changes. Though it'd be nice to have it. Gregoryx: Could you test your OL if you have a minute? And confirm that your ALs and LLs really turn on when the load changes? Thanks a bunch for this.

You lost me there. Completely! 1st step: The neutral from the enclosure power cord goes with the SL's neutral and enclosure's line to the SL's line. This is the power cord that plugs into the wall socket. 2nd step: The extension cord. On one end, there's a female plug, where I would plug in my heater. On the other end, there are 3 wires: the extension cord ground goes with the SL's ground, one of the two remaining wires goes with SL's load and the last wire goes with the SL's neutral. Huh? Have I started a fire yet?

These posts could help you: http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=686 and http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?t=866 They sure helped me when I got started.

I had never seen the innards of the tabletop enclosure, so I took a look at the quick start guide on SH's website. Still, I don't understand how that might help me. Are you're suggesting I forego the ApplianceLinc altogether and plug my ceramic heater in a chopped up extension wired into a tabletop enclosure? If so, aren't there usually three wires inside an extension cord? Would I wire those three wires inside the enclosure as well, or just the load and ground? Would that mean I'd plug my enclosure into a wall socket, and my heater into the extension cord? Sorry if I'm not making sense.

I'm not sure I follow... I get that I can install a SLR, instead of a KPL, into a tabletop enclosure. But why chop up an extension cord?

Just a safety concern. There is a wall-mounted ceramic heater plugged into my AL. It's in the kids playroom and very accessible. I just want to be able to monitor it in case the young ones fiddle with it. Out of curiosity, do LampLincs send a message when their status is changed manually? I can't test this as I don't have any LL. Thanks Rand for all your help.

I did what you suggested: Query on OFF status Turn ON my AL manually Query on ON status ISY sees the change and updates the KPL LED status (yippee!) But this is very involved. Is there a way to circumvent this? I know it's just for a LED, but I'm very obsessive.

Sorry for the edits and the crossed posts. Does that change your reply?