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Brian H

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Posts posted by Brian H

  1. With out an SD card it should be impossible to even use it as it is where all the module information and programming is stored.

    I believe the early versions of the ISY994i had it internally and you have to remove the top.

    • Like 1
  2. 6 hours ago, Mwid said:

    The LED bar graph on the switch stopped working and the tactile feeling of the switch is different - less range of motion and no definitive detent felt. And the other 2476ST that's connected to this circuit flashes a red light in the middle of the bar graph when I try and use it to actuate the circuit. 

    Sounds like the switch is locked up or failed. Flashing red led usually indicates a communication issue to another module. You can try a power cycle reset by turning the power to  it off and back on. Depending on its revision. Pulling the set button out should kill the power to it and then pushing the set button into its normal position. Will restore power to it. Do NOT push it all the way in as that may cause a factory reset. The tact switches under the paddles have been known to fail. Long time ago Smarthome extended the warranty on them in the known production problem time period.

  3. 2476ST is a power line only module. A restore as mentioned may do it for you. 

    Locally does the LED bar graph move up and down when the paddle is uses?

    A factory reset and restore sometimes helps, but depending on its revision. May not have an Air Gap switch used in a factory reset. There is a method for the old ones. I have it if you need it. The information is on the sticker on the front of it.

    You asked about last firmware version for the 2476ST. It is 5.3.4. Though if everything is OK now you may want to hold off on the upgrade for now.

  4. If your power line only deices. Suddenly start getting poor. The Access Points maybe starting to fail. If they are any Revision2 models. They are using the early revision of the 2413 base PLM main board. With the same capacitor issues.  We have seen in the older 2413S PLM. The revision 1 Access Points are on the older base controller with the separate RF daughter board and seem to work better over the long run.

  5. NO.

    The 2414U or 2414S  are not a PLM. The 2412U 2412S 2413S and 2413U. Are the PLM models.

    They are the original PLC Power Line Controller. That we could compose programs and download into them to run alone. Using the SALAD assembler we got in the original Developers Group. Use a completely different set of commands and will not work where a PLM is needed.

    Also if you are using a 2412S make sure only three wires are in the cable are being used. The 2412S has unregulated +12VDC on one of the pins. Normally are around 18VDC to about 19.5VDC

    • Like 1
  6. The 2450  I/OLinc is power line only communications. You may have some new power line issues. Like a signal sucker or power line noise maker. The trouble shooting link information may give some insight on what the problem maybe.

    It is also possible it has failed. As it has a switching power supply and the same capacitor issues we see in the 2413 PLM. I have seen different capacitors Smarthome tried to help but can't say exactly what yours may have,

  7. The replace function would work if the replacement is a similar model.

    To do it you add the replacement with a new name. Then high lite the old one and pick the replace with function. Using the name you gave the new module.

    If it is a new power line only. It could take eight messages and acknowledgement to add one link to the replacement. So it would take awhile and if you have a power line noise issue. It may fail. If the new one is dual band replace may or my not be an option. As it may not be close enough for a swap.

     

  8. Try  power cycling one of the switches. You can pull out the Set button to turn off the switch power then push it in to its normal position. Do NOT go past the normal position or you may factory reset it.

    You may also go into the Administrative Console and see how many links are in it and the PLM. That may give you a clue. Restoring one of the problem switches and testing may also show something.

  9. Then you have a chance to get a different module if you care to.

    I do know early ones had a history of failing and I don't know if they ever fixed it.

  10. Turning on a high capacity relay does sound like a go way to go.

    Elk made a heavy duty 220VAC relay in an enclosure. With a 120VAC relay coil in an enclosure. Controlled by a On/Off module or any other similar module. Not sure if it would be anything you can use.

    https://www.elkproducts.com/product/heavy-duty-relay-contactor-9200/

    Insteon sales site shows a 220VAC controller.

    https://www.insteon.com/load-controller

  11. Some versions may not have the Jumper Header. Just two solder pads where it was mounted on the PC board. In the early manuals.

    Was to set the reduction in sensing field. Jumper On is reduced sensitivity. The small jumper block was many times on one of the two pins on the PCB.

    Some have used the power connector in them to run them on an external USB power supply. They are supposed to not have to go into the power saving mode on an external supply.

  12. 4 hours ago, elvisimprsntr said:

    Use an ohm meter to compare the pinout of the two sets of DE9 to RJ45 cables.  

    I suspect the new cables are a standard Cisco serial console cable, which is not compatible with the serial PLM, and our mutual friends at the new Insteon don't know or assumed users would know.   In which case, you can continue to use the old cables or cut off the RJ45 and re-terminate with the correct pin-out.  

     

    The 2413S and older 2412S PLM use a unique cable. RJ45 to a DB9S connector. Only three wires are used. Serial In; Serial Out; common and in a unique pin out . The other pins are different signals like TTL in and out and the older 2412S also unregulated +12VDC normally around 18.5VDC. To be safe do not connect any other wires to the RJ45 PLM serial connector. Other than the three signals the serial PLM uses.

  13. Have not seen it lately. We use to have LED bulbs that had a repetitive current spike and in rush current at startup.  Manufactures gave us a figure to calculate the wattage we should use when we added up wastage to see if we where maybe overloading a dimmer switch. I remember a few said use 80 watts. 😀

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