Jamison_IO

Hello, I've had a fantastically functioning ISY for a long time (more than 10 years!) and have not really looked at it in years (very, very solid). I even have my original PLM. If I were to upgrade to the eISY, aside from the device itself, do I need anything else? Does the eISY require a PLM? Does the eISY require any subscriptions other than the option ISY network for remote access? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Sounds good - hopefully I won’t need it for a super long time. Hubs seems to be everywhere and really cheap.

I came across a cheap Insteon Starter kit. With the scarcity of the plm, I thought this could be a good way to use some of my unused switches, etc. in my new business location without having to start down the road of a whole different platform. My question is: The starter kits are all discontinued on the SH site, is there anything in them (the hub, thermostat, switches) that are not compatible with what is being put out today? Also, I asssume I do not need any sort of PLM to use with the hub. Is that correct? Thanks.

Wait, is that an on-topic response?! Holy Hannah, I think it is. Thanks for that. I’ll take a look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

great info - thanks much!

So I can get an ISY and use only z-wave devices and be good to go?

Showing my ignorance on this topic, but are z-wave (and the others) devices able to be used without the PLM?

Not at the moment. It is shared with two other similarly sized (<1000 sq. ft.), but now vacant, spaces. Yep. It is all 110V.

Are the ISY's usable without the PLM?

Thanks for the info. That is discouraging re: the availability of the PLM that works with the ISY. I am glad I didn't order one today.

I connect it with an ethernet cable, so I called it ethernet. This is what I needed, thank you.

I recently opened a small business in a strip mall and I would like to use an ISY (I have had one at home for 6 or so years) to control my sign (120V) and add a keypad where they should have put three-way switches to the rest of the lighting. I went to buy my PLM, but see there is now a USB PLM in addition to the one I have. What is the difference between the USB and the Ethernet PLM (other than the obvious connection)? Do I have to have a PC running all the time to use the USB, or does that connect to the ISY? Will the ISY + PLM work in a commercial setting where I don't have control of other things that are connected to the electrical system? My location is very small, so coverage shouldn’t be a problem, but I wanted to check. Thanks!

I just tried re-connecting my Google Home after a long time and I can get devices to respond (on and off), but not scenes. But if I change the scene from a 'scene' in the google home category to a "light" it works and says "turning on two lights" -- how in the heck does that happen?

OK - thanks for the reply, much appreciated. is direct IP/no cloud the same as using it with the ISY portal?

Is your website completely updated as far as requirements for the various apps, etc.? on https://mobilinc.com/apps/mobilincx/ it says, "MobiLinc X supports two ways to connect with your ISY: Through our MobiLinc Portal for the ISY or a Direct IP Connection." and this is in the current description on the app store: I remember being really confused the last time I looked at Mobilinc. I think it just got more confusing (for me).

3,124KB. Funny coincidence that I happen to check it within 10 days of it maxing out. Kind of surprised it doesn’t kick out the old and add the new, though. Thanks for the info!

I just went to do some troubleshooting and downloaded the log, which took a really long time. When it finally opened up, it has 95,987 lines but didn’t have anything beyond 12/11/19, which seems really odd to me. I opened it up in notepad, too in case it had reached Excel's max or something and there were the same number of lines. Any idea why it wouldn't have the last few days? I did just upgrade the firmware from 4.7.x to the most recent RC yesterday.

Hi - I upgraded from 4.7.x and all went well, except my scenes, though intact and enabled, aren’t turning on ( I don’t have many, just some sunrise sunset exterior lights). I could just replicate them, but thought I would let you know in case it helps.

Nice - a nerd electrical e-peen contest. You guys are your own best friends. enjoy.

I could definitely be wrong. <-- see how easy that is guys??

This was my intention! FYI- the power went out last night. Don’t know why, it went out, but not false smoke alarms! haha

I installed the Eaton one (ultra). Took me about 10 minutes. Now to see if it helps with those damn fire alarms being when it storms!

Thanks for the suggestions, folks. And to Westom, this is obviously some sort of personal crusade (or maybe unhealthy obsession) for you with this topic. Below is just a small sampling of what I found when I googled your latest response. I appreciate the information, but now, I think we should all move on.

So, in line with the "ground is the best protection" theory, how does one measure and ensure their ground its in the best possible condition to protect the expensive electronics? Also, how does a god, but simple ground protect from a spike that otherwise would damage the inline electronics? Is there a way the grounding system inherently siphons off, or redirects, the excess energy to ground instead of it going through to items connected to the system?

Hi All - Thanks to everyone with the great info and recommendations. I knew this was the right place to come for advice. I'll update once I get one installed. Cheers!