CoolToys

@paulbates, Thank you, I am glad to hear it isn't just me. I will do a reset today. I realized that button 4 on the i3 4 button also is a controller/responder to another scene on the same 8 button controller. So my original post was asking the wrong question. The "dining" scene works fine, it is the "patio" scene only that is the issue. Full reset and reload of both of them today, I will test and post results.

Oh yeah, one more note, the load on the insteon switch next to the 8 button keypad flickers when they are both set to controller. The eisy indicates that all loads are on properly after pressing either button. So I added a program to query, all that did was correct to what actually turned on. I am starting to see several keypad buttons lit up and the associated device or scene not on in the house. Once upon a time I understood that if I created a scene in the eisy, the scene was loaded into the devices. Some scenes work with the eisy off line, and others don't. For today's experiment I think I will delete the scene and devices from eisy, manually create the scene with the set buttons. Find the devices and keep the links to see what it does. In another thread there is a discussion that eisy only sends the scene command. I thought Insteon devices self checked and corrected however now I see "retry" options in IoX. I also recall that when an insteon device receives a command from eisy that it treats it differently then a button press. For this situation I am talking about a button press. Maybe a program for the 8 button to launch the "patio" scene and leave the i3 as the controller?

@lilyoyo1 That's what I thought, but they are not. I've tried deleting the devices and the scene. I noticed that there are more setting levels available with i3 so I thought that may have been it. For now I am leaving the 3rd button on the i3 as a responder so the scene works.

Greywinds and Smartwings blinds can use usb-c connectors. I would think that wire is easier to hide that 120v or Cat5 like wire. I have one of the solar panels just to see how they look/work. It works, but a bit too big to hide.

I have battery powered greywinds blinds. These were "easy" to install, but not eisy controllable. They work great with Alexa, Apple Home and uh the HA green, but for whatever reason the eisy sees them and I get "main" or "unavailable" for all of the devices. I can control them via alexa with the eisy, but the entire idea of the eisy is autonomous operation of my home. Thanks for the information on smart wings, I think I will buy one and see if it is worth the swap out. Greywinds are battery operated and the battery level is monitored by the HA so it alerts me to plug them in at 25% which is about every 90 days. Any idea on the smart wings battery life for the wireless versions? I have the HA as a test tool, I like the eisy better overall and have years invested learning it. Nevermind that I am too lazy to program the HA from scratch.

while going through other issues I swapped an old Powerline switch for a new custom engraved i3 four button. As a standalone the four button works fine. I have an 8 button keypad in the dining room with a "patio" key button. It is and has been the controller for the "patio" scene which turns on the main load on the new i3 and four other switches and an outdoor switched outlet. I also wanted the 3rd button to do the same thing. In the past I set them both to "controller". My understanding is this makes them both "controller/responders". so turning one on turn on the scene and the other switch. When only the Patio button the 8 button keypad is the controller, the scene works. When Only the Patio (3rd) button on the i3 4 button is the controller the scene works. When they are both set, neither work. One turns on two lights of the scene, the other turns on three. Neither turns on the outlet. Any thoughts? Is this not possible and I am approaching dual controller idea wrong? Do I need two identical scenes where the i3 is the controller for one and a responder in the other and reverse for the the second scene?

Now over 14 days no errors. The light on the keypads not going off with the scene are an i3 outlet that comes back on. The keypad is properly indicating something is on. Both outlets set to "load sensing off" and no changes. A strange new feature of my system is that my wife's watch winder is now getting little trickles of energy from the 2456S3 Appliance Linc v.42. Instead of a constant hum it is a "click" as it tries to move about once every 6 seconds.

@Geddy, @paulbates The four button was at least 3mm deeper than the 2476D it replaced. Shoving it into one of the last 1970 original boxes left in my house was a challenge. @mfryd I don't see anyway to do it in in IOX, only the 1 address appears with all of the options as a load controller, but that isn't to say if you didn't use the hub to move the load it would not move on IoX.

@larryllix, wow, this is a new one on me, so kudos from digging up the blog. Sorry for the long delay, I work overseas for a week at a time each month. I did some more research on the Bell HH4000 and yes it appears you need to downgrade to the H3000 to turn off DHCP and create a bridge mode. Sadly I eliminated the middle man and my fiber converter simply gives me a hot RJ45 jack with a single IP address, the rest is up to me and I get zero support from Frontier. I noticed the blogger mentioned that he was going to try a double NAT and hasn't posted results. When you say Double NAT didn't work, how did you set it up? Did you force an address on the NAT table from the bell router. I used .100 after reading some other information about how Bell routers reset after power failure. .1 - .5 apparently do random things so stay away from that range. Bell Router IP Address - Bell Assigned Local IP address 192.168.1.1 DCHP 192.169.1.2-255 DNS 1 Bell Assigned DNS 2 8.8.8.8 (Google if possible) WiFi7 Router IP Address 192.168.1.100 DHCP 192.168.2.101-255 DNS 1 192.168.1.1 DNS2 8.8.8.8 Devices (DHCP ok) Fixed IP Address in range of 192.168.2.5 - 2.95 Gateway address of 192.168.2.100

Well Skip that, I restarted iOX and did a factory reset on the switch and all is well.

I read a while back that new insteon didn't provide codes and wasn't supported but I thought that was fixed? Today my new @domotinc-customs 4 button with custom engraving arrived. Linking worked just fine, I tried to rename and got a communications error, unable to find linking name table. So I deleted and started over. Same thing, it links fine and then I get can't communicate. I put it in place of a 2476 dimmer. The dimmer was deleted before I cut power to the circuit and swapped the switches. Fair warning to anyone looking at i3, the switch is much deeper than the 2476 is, a lot harder to cram in the old work box.

@larryllix, I think you are on the right track, standing by for the results

@larryllix, yes part of a true mesh is to reduce overall wifi radiation and reduce channel congestion. The other part of a true mesh is the ability to lose a node and have the other nodes pick up and redirect traffic. It's good to know that you have them on a hardwired backbone. ASUS swaps to a bridge mode when hard wired which is a good thing as it should improve overall speeds. The nodes "talk" to each other to clear up channels which makes your troubles all the more curious to me. If you have that much land you are trying to cover you likely need a directional mesh with MIMO like the TP Link Deco that has outdoor rated hubs or the Wavlink AC1200 extender. These should give you a massive spray outside without needing to microwave yourself inside. For single router solutions, any major gaming hub will give the best range. But the 45 second delay thing should be solved first. That's worse than a stone age 56kps modem.

Seven days, no long running randomness. Just two LED on keypad lights not going off with scene since noise filters added. 99.95% there. This one may be a code error.

@larryllix, not an Asus Mesh fan, it isn't true mesh. They make great gaming WiFi Routers, and those work great as a standalone. Most "mesh" networks are not really mesh until you get up to at least 5 nodes. Two or three wifi mesh nodes can't really "mesh" they can only bridge which greatly slows things down. I have had very good experience with Orbi, Google, eero 6 and Linksys but in all cases I set them up so the nodes were wired to a switch that wired to the main node so there was no "mesh" usage on the triband, all hub to hub comm was over Cat 6. All had a minimum of 3 nodes with as many as 6 in some larger homes. Going back to your original post about DHCP taking 45 seconds to connect? That sounds like you have two master devices trying to manage DHCP and that can cause some odd things. In your polisy, what are you sending via ip commands? Regardless if you don't have a windows simple name server for the device and a windows name server set up, every little power surge or network collision can reassign an address and your polisy sends commands to the ether. I suggest you do this. -Set the Bell Router up as a gateway at 192.168.1.1 and turn off wifi and DHCP if possible. -Plug your WiFi Router of choice in and set it up with a static IP of 192.168.1.2 in "WAN Settings" with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0. -Use a DNS server and gateway setting of 192.168.1.1. -If you can add a second dns server add google's 8.8.8.8 or your ISP's DNS server if you can see that in your ISP router -Then set up your wifi router outbound IP (sometimes called "host" or listed under "local network") as 192.168.3.1, and start DHCP at 192.168.3.150 This creates a separate network for your stuff and does 90% the same thing "bridge mode" does on the bell router and make finding devices and troubleshooting much easier.