CoolToys

Well Skip that, I restarted iOX and did a factory reset on the switch and all is well.

I read a while back that new insteon didn't provide codes and wasn't supported but I thought that was fixed? Today my new @domotinc-customs 4 button with custom engraving arrived. Linking worked just fine, I tried to rename and got a communications error, unable to find linking name table. So I deleted and started over. Same thing, it links fine and then I get can't communicate. I put it in place of a 2476 dimmer. The dimmer was deleted before I cut power to the circuit and swapped the switches. Fair warning to anyone looking at i3, the switch is much deeper than the 2476 is, a lot harder to cram in the old work box.

@larryllix, I think you are on the right track, standing by for the results

@larryllix, yes part of a true mesh is to reduce overall wifi radiation and reduce channel congestion. The other part of a true mesh is the ability to lose a node and have the other nodes pick up and redirect traffic. It's good to know that you have them on a hardwired backbone. ASUS swaps to a bridge mode when hard wired which is a good thing as it should improve overall speeds. The nodes "talk" to each other to clear up channels which makes your troubles all the more curious to me. If you have that much land you are trying to cover you likely need a directional mesh with MIMO like the TP Link Deco that has outdoor rated hubs or the Wavlink AC1200 extender. These should give you a massive spray outside without needing to microwave yourself inside. For single router solutions, any major gaming hub will give the best range. But the 45 second delay thing should be solved first. That's worse than a stone age 56kps modem.

Seven days, no long running randomness. Just two LED on keypad lights not going off with scene since noise filters added. 99.95% there. This one may be a code error.

@larryllix, not an Asus Mesh fan, it isn't true mesh. They make great gaming WiFi Routers, and those work great as a standalone. Most "mesh" networks are not really mesh until you get up to at least 5 nodes. Two or three wifi mesh nodes can't really "mesh" they can only bridge which greatly slows things down. I have had very good experience with Orbi, Google, eero 6 and Linksys but in all cases I set them up so the nodes were wired to a switch that wired to the main node so there was no "mesh" usage on the triband, all hub to hub comm was over Cat 6. All had a minimum of 3 nodes with as many as 6 in some larger homes. Going back to your original post about DHCP taking 45 seconds to connect? That sounds like you have two master devices trying to manage DHCP and that can cause some odd things. In your polisy, what are you sending via ip commands? Regardless if you don't have a windows simple name server for the device and a windows name server set up, every little power surge or network collision can reassign an address and your polisy sends commands to the ether. I suggest you do this. -Set the Bell Router up as a gateway at 192.168.1.1 and turn off wifi and DHCP if possible. -Plug your WiFi Router of choice in and set it up with a static IP of 192.168.1.2 in "WAN Settings" with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0. -Use a DNS server and gateway setting of 192.168.1.1. -If you can add a second dns server add google's 8.8.8.8 or your ISP's DNS server if you can see that in your ISP router -Then set up your wifi router outbound IP (sometimes called "host" or listed under "local network") as 192.168.3.1, and start DHCP at 192.168.3.150 This creates a separate network for your stuff and does 90% the same thing "bridge mode" does on the bell router and make finding devices and troubleshooting much easier.

Yes, the 42120 filtered the noise coming in from outside the house, and my X10 and insteon reliability improved. I can't say it was a 100% solution but a large piece of the puzzle. That said the biggest troublemaker I have ever been 100% sure of was a Cyberpower UPS. As soon as I unplugged it, the house went from 40% reliable to 99% reliable. I was pretty sure it was the issue since problems started as soon as I plugged it in. There is a thread on Tesla Motor club about power line noise, and everyone pointing fingers but "surge protectors helping" I think they mean noise filters but. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/whole-house-power-filtering.171562/ Unfortunately I checked the catalog and the 42120 has been replaced by the M2120, and the equivalent LeGrand product is now also off the market. Lots of Din Rail single phase options out there, but not so much two phase for US style panels. I think this is the only one left. I got this from Leviton Contractor Support this morning "Yes, the M2120 features EMI/RFI filtering, per the UL 1283 standard."

Good Morning everyone. Yes @Geddy, you and @EWhite are correct, and thank you for the answer. I agree with @larryllix and I am not sure why UDI doesn't eliminate the panel to reduce confusion. I have set the IP address in the router as a DHCP reservation. I have dedicated IP fiber internet with a VPN policy between my home and office so they are transparent when I work from home. 192.168.2.x is the office and .5.x is the home, .4.x is the guest network at both. I got away from .1.x a long time ago as most DNS and back door hacks look for those numbers. For @larryllix, what equipment do you have and use? Can you set up the Bell device in "bridge only" mode? Can you set it up as 192.168.1.1 and use that as the gateway. This way, your main hub/wifi router can be 192.168.3.x with the gateway of .1.x? Some VPN have issues with this set up but most like Nord are fine with it now. This also means you aren't stuck with a crappy wifi provided by your ISP. This does four things. 1. it gives you the ability to mesh and grow your network as needed. 2. Allows a real partition with any guest networks if you turn them on. 3. Any device on the .3.x network traffic that isn't broadcasting bonjour or web service stays local and makes the network a bit faster and more efficient. I also use switches, not hubs for the same reason. 4. It also lets you see who is broadcasting very easily and troubleshoot dead spots or dead wires. When the network goes wonky and you need to find a device or catch the neighbor kid war hogging, IP Scanner Ultra is a great app. Once you name everything in IP Scanner by mac address it keeps everything easy to trace. All of those "unknown devices" can be named and labeled once you figure out what they are. I learned this naming method at Stanford when they named the first three mainframes How, What and Why. This was long before ethernet and at the birth of IP addresses. DecNet and AppleTalk anyone? Yes I heard it, I am old, but I have kept up with networking ever since. All of my devices except the eisy are set to static IP and in the Router as the same IP address. When the router died everything was copy and paste to lock it back down except the eisy which is why I asked the original question. The rest is mostly for anyone thinking of adding wires or remodeling. Wires are better period. All devices have Disney names, all the female names are my wife's office, the male names are mine, and castle names are shared house computers like the eisy and HA green. This makes network troubleshooting a breeze. I voted for beach/surfing names but we couldn't agree or come up with enough names. I might go all cars if I ever need to rebuild the network. I'll call my crappy printer Yugo instead of Dopey. Linksys keeps dummying down the app to manage the router but they leave the advanced settings in the back so you can always get there. I used to need a router from the ISP but with the new fiber box I just get a single co-ax out for TV and RJ-45 for Internet. They do no routing anymore, just single ip address provision as a bridge for one device the rest is up to me. House is wired dual Cat 6 to every TV, Camera, Rack and desk location. Only whitelisted devices can connect to the main wifi, the guest wifi is open and firewall from the main network using .4.x addresses for easy identification and limited exposure outside the network. And yes back this up! if you lose a router it is a lot to re-enter. Not being able to set the IP address of the eisy makes it more fun. The setup is inbound IP connection is the In on the main Linksys Mesh WiFi hub, the four "outs" go to: 1. AV Rack Main, 2. AV Rack Down, 3. IP Camera NVR 4. POE Switch in Main interconnect panel. Each of these locations has a Netgear 8 or 16 port GB switch with POE ports. I wired the TV's and AV racks so that I could use an HDBaseT matrix for video. It's a great party trick and basic matrix are under $500 now good ones under 2K. I was considering the Amazon eero 7 mesh system because it has a zigbee matter hub built in, but then I looked at the eula and it gives them full access to the network. No thank you. We use the Orbi 7 at the Yacht club where I am the IT chairman and it works great. Cisco Pro in the office.

My router failed this week and I couldn't connect to the eisy. My network is hardcoded with fixed IP addresses. But when I installed the new network I couldn't get to the eisy at its normal spot. I found it using the launcher and tried to set the IP address back but the DHCP check box is greyed out. Did I miss something? We can't used fixed IP addresses any more? ion 5.8.4

@jkraus To start with I agree with @IndyMike & @Guy Lavoie. Breakers do fail. If it doesn't have full contact or it is way overloaded and trying to open but can't for some reason the breaker will introduce noise. Both situations are bad. I live near the coast and breakers corrode and start acting up at about 25 years. So on to the rest of your issues. The under cabinet LED are they dimmable? Many "non-dimmable" will dim and introduce a lot of noise to the line. I had GE under cabinets that did this. The Insteon Dimmer, model number? Powerline only or dual band. Old insteon or new. I almost went full lutron when old insteon was gone and I started having switches fail. Sadly old insteon fails too. The lutron dimmer, slider analog or digital? Dimmable LED's all dont' work with the older sliding style lutron dimmers. If you have them, try 2477 or the newer digital Lutron designed for LED like a casita in all three? The "slow" and not working insteon signals? Can you be more specific? How big is your system, how much is power line only? How many "Dual band" do you have? I try to keep one dual band on every circuit breaker. When I replace the power line with the dual band in any place I also do the crazy thing of removing and replacing any devices not reliable hoping the communication routes will repair and will find a better path. To answer your earlier question, I have installed a Leviton 42120 in every house since I started installing X-10 a long long time ago. For budget reason I delayed at this house until my solar went in, and looking back I did something else at the same time. Every bulb in the house went from incandescent to LED (20120-2012 model LED lights). Flickering was just one of my new issues, and I think I was using an ISY 99i with a serial PLM. For budgetary reasons, the 42120 was delayed in this house until after solar. I could hear a change in the music in the house after solar, so my first inclination was to filter power. I upgraded the power filters to UPS/Filters for the cleanest power in both AV racks and for every computer. Things got way worse and I isolated that to a Cyberpower UPS from Costco. It is gone and all Cyberpower are now APC. The audio was fixed but there was still reliability problems with the ISY so the 42120 was next. The other thing I did was install very cheap LED light bulbs the day after solar went in. Many flickered when dimmed at all. Walking the house, I can see that about half of the lights are still those original LED's so I believe the 42120 fixed those. Others I upgraded to newer models with better "flicker free" dimming. Also the larger circuits of 6 bulbs or more are the ones that still have the older bulbs so it could be load related if your load is too low. There are still two original old LED that flicker whenever there is an insteon command traveling the line. Two 5W LED bulbs dimmed to 50% It is an interesting phenomenon and I leave it to watch certain programs run instead of watching the AC. It has been spot on.

@IndyMike, no powerwalls, just the solaredge inverters which are set up for powerwalls. My wallet isn't that fat yet. In the Powerwall thread I suggested someone try the Leviton 42120. I have been using the 42120 since X-10 days to clean up the inbound powerline signal and block any spurious noise from the main line, neighbors etc.

Has anyone make a 3d printer model for the Eisy to Rack mount it? I found a guy in Australia that made one for the Home Assistant, but not the Eisy. Happy to pay for one if anyone has the models or knows where to buy one.

@fegelmej, I had a huge list of issue migrating from the 994 to the Eisy. Some was my programming, some was "tokens" not connecting. Here is the shortcut to the list of everything I did and notes where scenes and devices do different things in IoX, which I didn't have issues with before.

Anyone tried the Leviton 42120? I had some issues when I added solar. I can't say for sure this fixed it but it is a whole house filter? It might filter out both sides though. X-10 recommended it to me 30 years ago so they have been in every house since.

@IndyMike Geez, I had forgotten about filterlinc's I used them in my last house, two ordered, one for each AV rack and I also ordered a 2477 to replace the 2476 in our bedroom and see if that helps. Like many of the people with issues on Tesla Power Walls, I filter the inbound power. My solar edge inverter induced its own noise problems so I added a Leviton 42120. I do have dual mesh switched on each phase in "steps" throughout the house. When we did the remodel the sheathing and roof are techshield which is great at blocking/reflecting RF and used RockWool insulation in a lot of the walls and attic which is also a terrific audio and RF absorbent material. The house is divided into four zones with each zone stepping off of the previous. As I am re-mapping that out I see that there is a small potential gap leading to our bedroom. The "hop" in the middle from the next closest dual mesh is another 2476 although directly below the keypad linc in the bedroom is another dual mesh 5 button so that hop shouldn't be the issue. Isn't powerline fun.....