Jump to content

Ajax

Members
  • Posts

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

1364 profile views

Ajax's Achievements

Experienced

Experienced (4/6)

25

Reputation

  1. OK I ended up taking the easy way out. I switched 3 of the out for the standard 15W LED bulbs. I also switched the switches around with one that I have not had any issues with. Both seems to be working for now. One thing I noticed that I wanted to get the collective's opinion. We built this house in 2020 so its pretty new-This is the second switch I found that the grounds (Bare copper) was not tied together in the box.... I know sometimes with the porcelain/plastic bulb holders they do that but is that OK? I might pull a couple more switches and outlets and see what I find.
  2. Thanks guys. I know when we wired the house I asked to still run the runner for the 3-ways (incase we ever wanted to remove insteon). I will pop the rest of the boxes and see what I find
  3. Would this work? https://www.smarthome.com/collections/insteon-switches/products/in-linelinc-relay-insteon-2475sdb-remote-control-in-line-on-off-switch-dual-band I can place this in the attic once i find the wire so the first 5 lights turn on then a program turn the other 4 on a couple seconds later?
  4. I have been using the 2477S for the LOAD wire the others 3x 2477D have no load attached to them. But yes for what they go for these days I dont want to waste anything!
  5. OK the results are in they peak at about 85W and settle down to 82W. Even at 85W you are looking at 765W why would the relay weld shut... I am sure that is what happened. Prob will switch out the 2477S in the bathroom for a dimmer and use that as a replacement
  6. But it is sooo nice! Hopefully I will be able to verify the actual wattage tonight
  7. @mwester I think you experienced what I am dealing with! You dont happen to have info on the relay you used? Getting that installed is going to be the next issue. Maybe if I split the 9 lights into 2 circuits but that will be a pain also. My whole attic has blown-in insulation Before I go nuts, I will dig up my kill-a-watt meter and plug one bulb in and see the actually wattage
  8. Thanks yes I figured the wattage could be incandescent equivalent but couldn't find anything else. Originally I had a dimmer in that switch but it got plenty hot so I figured to change it to the 2477S to be safe. Here is what I have. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L51NRLJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 the lights are great had them for over a year. I will replace them both a report back. Might be while sometimes its weeks before they act up
  9. OK, I have been struggling more and more with a specific switches. Issue #1: I have a 4-way setup with the load going to a 2477S and 3x 2477D's for the 4-way function. The load to the 2477S are LED bulbs in my garage 9x150W=1350W. The switch should be rated at 1800W. ( I am not using the dimmers to dim, just had a bunch of them compared to on/off switches) The issue is that sometimes I can turn the light off at any of the 4 switches and they all turn off (The LED indicator lights) except the garage lights stays on. Does not matter which switch I used I can hear the relay turn on and off at the load switch but nothing happens. Sometimes if I play with it for a while it would turn off other times I need to flip the breaker. Is the switch itself bad? I haven plenty of 2477D's to replace it with and test but they are only rated for 600W. Issue #2: Another 2477S question: I have 2 in a bathroom-1 Controls the light one controls the fan. Program turns the fan on when light is on and have a 5min timer to turn the fan off after the light is off. Sometimes I turn the light on get a red flashing LED on the light switch, the fan switch does not turn on and I can hear a slight buzzing from one of the 2 switches. I can flip the light switch off and back on and it works fine again. These switches are fairly new purchased 3 years ago and installed 1 year ago. Thanks
  10. Any suggestions? Thanks
  11. Wil give that a shot thanks!
  12. Weirdest thing... Works perfect for when we are going to bed but some mornings I would wake up at 3 or 4 and notice the keypad is bright. I assumed that it lost the status and reverted back to "else" but this morning "H" was not on (Meaning door status is locked) but some other keys were lit for fan speed. I am guessing it happens when the ISY is query all at 3am. All it takes is me getting up and manually unlocking and locking the door to dim the keypad again
  13. Check out this thread https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/31989-error-clonerepo-error-runinstallprocess-undefined/ I was told : In 99% of the cases, this is related to Polisy not having access to the internet (perhaps you configured static IP and the gateway or DNS are incorrect). If that’s not the case, and if your unit is from a long time ago, then you may need to upgrade the OS. If you know how to use ssh, then: ssh to Polisy login (default is admin/admin) at the prompt: curl -shttps://pkg.isy.io/script/update121.sh | sudo bash
  14. All, I have been trying with no luck to add the Gen 6 siren to my ISY. I have a schlage lock and Aeotec Range extender 7 that works just fine. I have tried including and excluding. doing it by the ISY or away etc. but nothing seems to work. Searching the forums you see the issue pop up once in a blue moon but they mostly resolve themselves. I did post on someone else thread but no real information either. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/32506-z-wave-siren-compatible-with-isy994izw/
  15. Thanks not sure how I missed that one! Also I always thought people like continuing threads with similar/same problems. I dont want to come off as always needing to create new threads like I did not put the time into searching, but will keep it in mind. I have other Z-wave devices that functions just fine, but below is the info.
×
×
  • Create New...