theitprofessor

It looks like VUE 3 should work just fine but what about multiple control boxes? The most sensors you can have on a control box is 16. Are there any issues with 2, 3, or even 4 control boxes for a total of 32, 48, or 64 sensors? Thanks

Perfect, yes they call it the Caseta Smart Hub now and there's a Pro version but yes same thing. Thanks, Bob

Can someone please confirm if wired Serena roller shades now work with the Caseta node server? Will I be able to totally control the shades via my Eisy? I’d like to make sure before I make a large investment in these shades. Thanks

You can disregard any of these weird PLM issues as they turned out to be the same cause and solution as this other issue I posted and solved. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/43050-iox-and-i3-insteon/

So disregard any of these issues I was asking about. It turns out it had more to do with a not perfect migration to Eisy and change out of the PLM. Most things worked OK but I had a gremlin or two in my network. By removing everything Insteon, resetting each Insteon device to factory default including the PLM, and putting it all back in, that resolved all of my anomalies. It was a lot of work (>300 Insteon & >100 Scenes) but worth it. Also, for the i3 Paddle and Keypad dimmer issues one of them has it's mode default to Dimmer and the other to Relay. You need to do a query on the device from the AC to see what it's actually set to and then you can write a change to the mode if necessary. You cannot trust what the setting/options say without a query first. Works flawlessly every time.

The comm delay I see with the i3 is from my Eisy to the device. Like simply turning something on or off. So basically it’s from my PLM to the i3. I even see a “system busy” sometimes from the AC. Which could just be me clicking the button too many times. I’m going try some more testing to see if I can pin down what may be causing these the delays. The weird part is it doesn’t happening to any of my non i3 devices, and I have a lot.

That’s the same thing I’m thinking but I’m seeing some funky comms I didn’t see with my old serial PLM. Not sure what it is but I’m looking at all the possibilities.

@paulbates Not sure if you knew this Paul but you can run the AC via IoX finder local over a site to site VPN tunnel or client VPN to any UD box. ISY, Polisy, Eisy, works great. I’ve done it from half way across the country. You just need to add the proper address line to IoX finder. You don’t need RDP. Direct connect without the need of a jump box.

I created a mobile test lab out of mine. I took some 2x4's and framed up a simulated mini house about 2' X 1'. Added 5 single gang junction boxes to it and 2 round electrical boxes with ceiling light fixtures and LED dimmable bulbs. In the single gangs I have different Insteon devices and one of them standard outlet with a PLM. I plugged my blue box Polisy into that. I got a 6' 14 gauge appliance plug wire and connected that to my mini house frame. I can test anything without needing to disrupt my existing house config or physically installing it in the house. All I need is a single standard wall outlet to power the whole thing and a network connection for the Polisy. I can test things on it in my existing house anywhere in it and it's small and light enough to take on the road. Even to somewhere which has nothing. I'm using it for Insteon now but it can be used for ZWave, Wifi, whatever devices you want to test.

Has anyone experienced communication/performance differences or reliability issues between using a Serial PLM vs. a USB PLM attached to the same IoX hardware? Or does anyone think one is better than the other and for what reason? You can skip anything about burnt out capacitors, that's not what I'm asking about. I know a lot of people have had issues in areas with flaky power. Fortunately I've never fried a PLM in 12 years, not one (knock on wood).

Oh I totally understand that but one of the first things I do when I put something new in is to make sure I’m on the latest version. So I started looking around to see how to find out what the latest version available is and how I would go about upgrading it if I wasn’t. Can’t find either one so I asked. Especially when I’m seeing issues. That’s where I start. I’m seeing huge communication delays with the i3 devices I don’t see with my non i3 devices.

One of the features of the i3 series is the devices are supposed to have field firmware upgrade capabilities. In fact, I think if your hub is an Insteon hub I guess it does this already. Of course, the Insteon devices prior to i3 can’t. I understand that. I’ve had them for 10 years myself. I was wondering if UDI was going to build this into IoX or will we have to have an Insteon hub just for firmware upgrades. That’s really a Mickey Mouse way of doing it but I’d take that over nothing at all. There must be an easier way.

I assume the answer to your question is yes but I won't know for sure until I try it. Later I will remove, do a factory reset on the paddle and keypad and try to add again, observe the behavior and post back here.

Thanks for giving me some ideas what to look for... # 3 Dimming I was looking at the mode via the AC. Interesting the difference between AC and UDM. So basically when you bring an i3 Keypad or Paddle (Switch) you get an extra object they call Flags which are basically all the Options for the device. A Keypad has 9 and a Paddle has 7. All of these Options are binary (only 2). In the AC the Mode option is either "Dimmer" or "Relay" all of the other options are "On" or "Off". In UDM all of the options are either "True" or "False" including Mode. My guess is UDI just hasn't got to labeling in UDM yet. I was able to get the dimmer to function but not the same way you did. I basically set Mode to "Relay" in the AC, and wrote changes. Then I changed it back to "Dimmer" and wrote changes. After doing this it started to work properly. The Mode was set to Dimmer when I first added it but apparently what's displayed in the AC is not accurate. So by changing it a couple times seems to have fixed it. # 2 Outlet I was able to get the Outlet to join but not the normal way I add devices. I normally use the AC, go to New Insteon Device, add the address and a name and that's all that's needed. But that just kept erroring out. So I put the Outlet in pairing mode with the set button, and then followed my same old procedure and that worked. You need to manually take to device out of pairing mode after it's been successfully added to the system. One thing I noticed differently in the AC is, normally Scenes and Controller only devices are in Blue and all other devices like legacy Outlets are in Pink/Red. With this i3 Outlet it came in as Blue. # 1 Firmware Updates Still no way I can see to do a firmware update. Additional Note: Communication to these new devices is very slow compared to all my older Insteon devices. I see a lot of system busy and long noticeable delays in the AC and with the actual condition on the devices.

Has anyone tried the new Insteon i3 devices with IoX 5.8 running on Eisy? I have and here's what I've run into so far. 1. There doesn't seem to be an option for doing any firmware updates. 2. I can't get the Outlet to join the network. I can find it but it errors out with "Cannot determine Insteon Device Type. 3. I have a Paddle and Keypad and I can't get a dimmable LED bulb to dim. Only on and off. And yes the options are set to dimmer. Anyone run into these issues? Can't find anything on a search. I can open up a support ticket but I wanted to see if this was something anyone else has experienced.

The key features/criteria for my resulting config is only one of my KPL button LEDs B,C, or D can be on at one time and it corresponds to a fan speed. If I press D it turns the fan on high. If I press B it not only turns the fan on low but it also turns the D button LED off. If I press any of the 3 buttons that was lit it not only turns that button's LED off but it also turns the fan off because none of the 3 buttons would be on. The same thing works with Alex voice commands now. By turning any of the 3 button/key scenes on or off with voice it not only sets the fan at the corresponding speed, or off, but it turns the corresponding button/key light on or off. This is so I can have visual confirmation of what my current condition is. I also have the KPL LEDs set at (off 3) and (on 6). This is so it's easy to see the keypad in the dark but not too bright and when a key is on there's a big enough difference to tell if it's on or off. All of this was always my criteria for interaction between the fan and the KPL and still is. Getting rid of the FanLinc made it more difficult to accomplish the same thing but I'm happy I found a way. I can think of no other way to program this with the required criteria.

Bingo problem solved. All functions are working perfectly. Either pressing keypad buttons or Alexa voice commands it all works the same. I will let it all bake in for a few days to be sure but if anyone is interested how I did it this is not the exact config from the AC but you'll get the idea. I had to add delays in certain places to work correctly all the time but I started with 5 seconds and was able to shorten it to 1 second. I also had to reverse the logic for the fan off program to work successfully all the time. Here is the config. I included the downlight so 4 scenes and 5 programs. Lounge Key A (Scene) < Alexa Light < Voice Spoken < Lounge Light Lounge Keypad-A (On) Controller Lounge Key B (Scene) < Alexa Switch < Voice Spoken < Lounge Fan Low Lounge Keypad-B (On) Controller Lounge Keypad-C (Off) Responder Lounge Keypad-D (Off) Responder Lounge Key C (Scene) < Alexa Switch < Voice Spoken < Lounge Fan Medium Lounge Keypad-B (Off) Responder Lounge Keypad-C (On) Controller Lounge Keypad-D (Off) Responder Lounge Key D (Scene) < Alexa Switch < Voice Spoken < Lounge Fan High Lounge Keypad-B (Off) Responder Lounge Keypad-C (Off) Responder Lounge Keypad-D (On) Controller Lounge Light (Program) If Lounge Keypad-A Status > Off Then Wait 1 second Lounge Fan Light Set On Else Wait 1 second Lounge Fan Light Set Off Lounge Fan Low (Program) If Lounge Keypad-B Status is On Then Wait 1 second Lounge Fan Set Low Else Lounge Fan Medium (Program) If Lounge Keypad-C Status is On Then Wait 1 second Lounge Fan Set Medium Else Lounge Fan High (Program) If Lounge Keypad-D Status is On Then Wait 1 second Lounge Fan Set High Else Lounge Fan Off (Program) If Lounge Keypad-B Status is On or Lounge Keypad-C Status is On or Lounge Keypad-D Status is On Then Else Wait 1 second Lounge Fan Set Off

Still can't set the fan speed in a scene, only on or off. Scenes are designed for grouping Insteon devices only and setting their capabilities not other devices. You can add other devices but there are limitations and this is one of them. But I have an idea I'm about to try. I already have 3 different scenes with KPL buttons in them only (no fan), and 3 different programs that monitor each button's on status and set the corresponding fan speed. The problem is turning the fan off. If I put the fan off command in the (Else) line, the 3 programs conflict with each other going from say High to Low. You would have to turn High off first and then turn Low on. So my idea is to Not use an (Else) Fan off command in the 3 speed programs and create a 4th program that monitors the status of the 3 buttons and if all 3 are off run the (Else) that turns the fan off and do not have any lines in the (Then). Then for Alexa use the 3 button scene as voice commands. I'll report my results after I program this idea and test it.

I really appreciate you are trying to help but you really need to read through my history/description again. Forget about the looping, I already knew that and removed it. This is not about the embedded runs, they are gone. The key take aways are the fan control is NOT a FanLinc anymore so I can't use a scene to change the fan speed. I can only use a program to change the speed and it works fine. The real issue I'm having and it's minor is when one of the 3 Alexa speed voice commands are given it only sets the fan to the correct speed. I'd like for it's corresponding KPL button status to change to On also but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that programmatically. Your suggestion has the fan control and the buttons in the same scene. I use to have that and you're right it worked fine. I can't use that because the fan control is NOT FanLinc anymore.

Pretty simple, here's one of the 3... Lounge Fan High (Program) < In Alexa as a Switch> If 'Lounge / Lounge Keypad-D' Status is On Then Run Program 'Lounge Fan Low' (Else Path) Wait 2 Seconds Run Program 'Lounge Fan Medium' (Else Path) Wait 2 Seconds Set 'Node Servers / Bond / Bond Bridge / Lounge Fan' Set Speed 5 Else Set 'Node Servers / Bond / Bond Bridge / Lounge Fan' Set Off Wait 1 Second Run Program 'Lounge Fan Low' (Else Path) Wait 1 Second Run Program 'Lounge Fan Medium' (Else Path) Lounge Button Group D (Scene) Lounge Keypad-B (Off) Responder Lounge Keypad-C (Off) Responder Lounge Keypad-D (On) Controller Notes The extra Run Program (Else Path) lines are for making sure the the other 2 programs end properly and change the program icon status color to match it's condition in the AC. (Clean Housekeeping) If I try to turn the scene on or off in the program for the purpose of activating the proper button light it loops and I can see why. I can't even break/stop the program loop without rebooting my Eisy. This config works very well except if the program is triggered with something other than pressing a button a.k.a Alexa, I can't set the proper light status on the KPL buttons.

I need to set some background information. Previously I have been controlling each of my ceiling fans with an Insteon FanLinc and 8 Button KPL. I created 3 scenes, one each for High, Medium, and Low of the Fan. For this discussion the light control is not an issue so I will stay away from that. I use B for low, C for Medium, and D for High. Each scene has 4 devices in it, the fan motor, and the 3 KPL buttons. I set the High scene to turn the fan motor on High, the D button ON, and the B and C buttons to Off. For each of the 2 other scenes I adjust the fan motor speed and and appropriate button configuration for that speed. This configuration works nicely for two things. First, if the fan is running on High with the D button lit and I press the C button, the motor drops down the medium speed, the C button lights up On and the D LED goes Off. The same with B and so on. Secondly I have all 3 scenes tied to Alexa voice as three different switches. If I give the voice command for High, Medium, or Low the appropriate KPL buttons go On and Off. So no matter if I press a KPL button on the wall or issue a voice command one and only one of the 3 buttons is lit if the motor is on. If the motor is off all 3 of those button LEDs are Off. This is all possible because all the devices in the scene are Insteon devices. That was the background/history. FanLinc is dead to me for a few reasons. 1. Newer ceiling fans seem to be moving to DC motors instead of AC motors and FanLinc can not be installed in a DC fan. 2. FanLinc has always had an issue by burning itself out over time if you don't religiously start it on High and step it down to a lower speed from there if you are starting it from a dead stop. If you start from a dead stop and the first speed is low all the time the device won't last long. 3. I don't see Insteon putting engineering time/dollars into building a new FanLinc that doesn't fix these two problems. There are two many other companies already doing that. I finally found a nice replacement for FanLinc. The Bond Bridge Pro. I can add almost any non smart/RF fan remote control to the Bond Bridge Pro and thanks to PG3 and Goose66's Node Server I now have my non-Insteon fans in the Admin Console as a native devices. Since the fans are not Insteon I cannot create a scene that has the buttons and the fans in a scene. But I can accomplish almost the same thing as before with scenes and programs. Everything works perfectly as before except one thing. Since I now use the program instead of a scene for Alexa the fan speed changes correctly but I can't trigger the corresponding KPL button light changes to happen like I did before. There's no programming option to turn the button light On or Off. I tried some things with turning the scenes On or Off but I just kept running into program looping issues. Does anyone have any solutions that gets this last small piece over the finish line?

Mine is back online now. Michel said there was an AWS outage in the East which is why we all experienced the same thing. You should all be back up by now.

I'm having the same problem. My EISY is not connecting to the ISY Portal. Everything else in the house is working fine to the internet. I am getting notifications to UDM from my iPhone but UDM says my EISY is offline and so does the web interface to the portal.

A few questions please. 1. Did you do a software based ZWave migration to start using the ZMatter or did you rebuild your ZWave network from scratch? 2. Did you actually enable ZMatter? It's not enabled by default and when you enabled it you will need to rebuild the ZWave network. 3. Are you sure your locks are running at S2 and not S0. The issue we are seeing seems to be related to S2.

Thanks gzahar, good to know it's not just me. I really believe there's some incompatibility issue between the S2 code with the new ZWave/ZMatter and the Schlage locks. When I was on Polisy with ZWave it worked fine and I had a 700 series (S2) ZWave controller in my Polisy but it was configured with S0 because UDI hadn't released the S2 code for the Polisy yet.