MrBill

Michel, Thank you for saying exactly what I've suspected for a long time. Transparency goes a long way. Now I am able to use actual information rather than my own theories to shape the direction of activities.

This is in fact possible. I know because I'm using a unpublished nodeserver on polisy from github (it was branched from another version and developer didn't have supporting hardware for this branch to test, it was left untouched for over 2 years). I've also modified it. I'm also working on a entirely new version of the same that I intend to publish someday in the store for others. So please stop repeating all your fallacies and change your attitude and become willing to learn.

To speed setup, after you have the first up and going use "Copy Folder" and then rename the folder appropriately. And then edit programs to change devices. I find that to be much faster when setting up multiple similar objects.

If you have the rear blue light next to Port A you do in fact have a 300 series dongle. Go back to 5.0.16C until you upgrade it. You can order the new board direct from UDI.

The advantage to it selling on SmartHome.com tho, is that people have been shopping for smarthome devices on that site since 1995. People don't randomly shop on universal-devices.com unless they already heard of it and came specifically to buy it.

It takes awhile to set up, but i use programs to accomplish exactly what you're asking for. See this post.

I also noticed that smarthome seems to have discontinued ISY's.

Interesting. They were in stock not long ago (I ordered one over the summer), I didn't notice they were out of stock when I linked them yesterday, but one thing that's different of the micro modules... they are still active items (the link hasn't been turned off), other discontinued items seem to vanish from view. It sad to see this. One of the things that differentiated Insteon was all of the specialty items.

they actually make a version of that without the yoke or plastics. https://www.smarthome.com/products/in-linelinc-dimmer-insteon-2475da1-remote-control-in-line-dimmer-dual-band https://www.smarthome.com/products/in-linelinc-relay-insteon-2475sdb-remote-control-in-line-on-off-switch-dual-band I hadn't noticed the white only thing yet... but you're right....

He succeeded!!.... You quoted all 3 of his link spamming attempts, now he has links and mentions...people are talking about that site! at least that what search engines think.....

The poster above you is just a link spammer... He got you to bite.... you're quoting his links (that's what he hopes people will do because that is what helps his link spamming cause). I reported all 3 of his posts early this morning.

@asperber You may want to open a ticket by emailing support@universal-devices.com I'll add that since it appears the admin console is opening and then throwing the socket error you might need to restart your mac and/or clear the java cache. disclaimer: i've never used the mac implementation.

My Vacation mode isn't automatic, it's just now rolled into the same variable used for away, the only way Away can become =2 is if it's set or reset manually. When set to 2 basically the Fake Lived In look lighting programs are activated and geo-location control of the Away variable is disabled (not that either phone would come home but it eliminates a potential point of failure. My HVAC is simpler than yours, I still use a Nest because it gives me a $100 annual rebate from the power company, the nest isn't even controlled via ISY anymore because nest doesn't want to share. (I've been going to fake hook up the nest so the power company can think they are controlling it and switch to Ecobee but I've never gotten around to that project.)

With the ISY you won't have to reload different programs when you return. To get you started I'd suggest you create a "state variable" called "Away" or "Vacation". Assume that variable will always be 0 for OFF or 1 for ON. Now as you create programs you can include IF $Away = 1 THEN.... or even more complex IF $Away = 1 AND ON TUE Time is 8:05AM THEN.... and likewise conversely you can IF $Away = 0 ...... THEN... How does AWAY get updated? One way is manually, just set the variable to 1 or 0. Another way is you could have a button on a 6 or 8 button keypad set to turn away mode on or off. In my original setup I used a modified version of that, the button would turn away mode ON anytime someone pressed it, but to actually get away mode to turn off you had to know the secret: Turn on 2 specific lights the would be off in away mode, and then open AND close the laundry room door then you had 10 seconds to press the Away button to turn it off. I've since updated the whole Away mode logic to be automatic, using the ISY portal, and the App Locative to create a geofence. Now if BOTH my phone and my wifes phone are not home Away is automatically set, or if ONE OF us arrives home it's cancelled. In the process of making that update I also decided to make the variable Away have two more values, instead of just 0=Off and 1= On my programs now all recogize 4 values for Away: -1=Away mode off, geofence disabled; 0=Away mode OFF, geofence can enable; 1=Away mode ON, geofence can disable, 2=Away Mode ON, Geofence can't disable. Previously I also had a second variable called Vacation which had more automated lighting controls, I've now consolidated that to be included with Away = 2. And that button on the 8-button controller that previously controlled Away mode.... it's now just an indicator light for Away, it no longer controls the state of away mode. You can still do exactly that.

I agree, it seems backwards to me as well.

try logging in via a regular computer browser at https://alexa.amazon.com then delete all devices and scenes that are ISY related. then say "Alexa, discover devices". I find it's about 3 times faster and easier to see the list if you use a full browser over the app.

As written if the second opening is during the wait it will restart the wait, so one minute after the second opening. There is a way to force the one minute wait to expire and the light to shut off before it can be re-triggered. Takes 2 more lines in the 2nd program: Entry Light Off - [ID 0006][Parent 0046] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Disable Entry Light On Wait 1 minute Set 'Rooms / Entry / Entry Ceiling Light' Off Enable Entry Light On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I agree with @larryllix use search to see if you have another program controlling the device. Also sometime watching the "Programs" > "Summary" tab in the Admin Console can help find never ending loops. You can sort that page in various ways by clicking the column heading, clicking it twice reverses the sort order. "Activity" twice will put "Running" programs at the top (under any folders). "Last Run Time" twice may be beneficial also.

Each Controller in scene has it's own scene attributes. In your case there are 2 scene controllers: "IRLinc E" and the ISY itself (whose scene attributes are set at the root level of the scene or as shown in your screenshot "Theater TV end"). In other words the root level scene is what happens when the ISY itself controls the scene, each RED Controller entry in the tree also has its own attributes that must be configured.

I'm not certain that you gave UDI a fair chance. Sure they may give standard answers the first time around, I know it's frustrating. I went through this with them a few months ago, I couldn't get the admin console to open. Just like with your problem, they told me to do all the things I had already told them I had already done. I was a bit frustrated because there was a simple thing I set out to accomplish that day and it was suddenly taking hours. You know what happened next? Michel opened up a remote session and spent an hour with me sorting out an ugly java issue. I also know that you don't need to initiate a chargeback through Paypal. UDI always happily refunds anyone for anything when they ask.

If you mean that in the admin console on the portal tab of the configuration section it says "registered" but that's still showing pending in the portal, then perhaps refresh the portal page, or even shift-refresh the portal page. If that doesn't help log out of the portal and log back in, if that still didn't help open a support ticket support@universal-devices.com

Are these strips 5050, 2835, 3528, etc? or are they individually addressable--which is different technology. ? Assuming 5050, 2835, 3528 style, that's an unusual problem. Green Lights is a single LED of the RGB color scheme, purple is not--it's a combination of Red and Blue. When we diagnose problems with this style strip the best test is to set GREEN and observe, then set BLUE and observe, then set RED and observe. All other colors are just a combination of those three. What we normally see completing that test is that sections of the strip just don't light under one or two of those 3 color combinations, they don't suddenly make a mixed color--like purple. Anyway if it's a 5050-like strip as discussed in this paragraph and your getting weird results in a single section of the strip, not where it's been cut, then it likely means the strip has been physically damaged at that point, and is likely beyond normal repair.

I'd recommend updating to 5.0.16C at least, as it's the most stable of the 5.0.X releases. There really isn't much "new" for Insteon because Insteon hasn't changed much. That said, there should be some much needed Insteon bug fixes coming soon sometime in the future.

Posting some screen shots might help. This forum makes that easy, if you're on windows press [Windows Key][Shift][S] to open the snipping tool, make a screen grab, which goes to your clipboard automatically. Then when replying to this thread just press Ctrl-V and your screen grab will be pasted into the message. Also, The most commonly misunderstood part of scene programming is that each controller in a scene has it's own attributes. If switch A, B, and C are all controllers each has it's own scene settings or attributes. Then the Scene itself also has a set of scene settings or attributes, those are used when the ISY is the controller.

The Insteon on/off Outdoor Module has an LED next to the outlet. The LED is Red when the module is off, and Green when it's on. and of course LED off (or unlit) would indicate the module itself isn't getting power. Next time it's "off" when it's supposed to be on check that LED. If the module is actually turning off (red LED) that's not reflected by the KPL (still ON) as you indicate, then I would use the FIND feature in the admin console to look for other programs that are addressing the Device (Outdoor Module) itself and not the scene. Edit to add: Also in the admin console: Tools > Diagnostics > Show Device Links Table. After that runs use the "Compare" button to find out if the links in the device are what the ISY expects to be there. If not, right click the device and "Restore Device". If all else fails try a factory reset of the Device, followed by Restore Device as above.