MrBill

I'd put the 2450 inside and run the low voltage wire out.

It's interesting this is all the fault of the ISY! I wonder why you didn't say "Is there really NO easy way to edit device links manually from Insteaon Hub?" The problem that you are encountering is there is no concept for multiple controllers/hubs in an Insteon system. It has nothing to do with the fact there is no easy way to manually edit links. There are many threads on this very topic in this forum. The ISY also works well with Alexa. The problem is not that you can't manually edit links using an ISY, the problem is that you don't want to learn how to migrate properly from one controller to another.

No doubt! Not in use anymore, but I still have a BSR branded maxi-controller, lamp module and appliance module from the late 70s.

To make the ISY less busy: Then Repeat Every 15 second $Sump_Pump_Run_Time += 15 $Sump_Pump_Run_Time Init To $Sump_Pump_Run_Time It's not EGGSACTLY the same granularity, but should be close enough...

I was definitely generalizing in the original context above yes. All the same I quoted the exact information that I had on the subject because I was told my statement was incorrect. I claim nothing more.

Please see attached. Also go to https://www.networksolutions.com/whois/index.jsp and look up the domain registrations for both smarthome.com and insteon.com and compare what you see there.

Done that way because I didn't want to manually adjust the clock, but wanted to test what happens "in this time period" and "outside this time period". I admit the original program works differently than I expected. I thought it was from this forum I learned that you can't use FROM TO and AND all in the same IF statement, and now I wonder why I think that doesn't work. in any case i still like the "dark" variable better... much easier for testing "after sunset" things at 1pm in the afternoon.

As a test I just created: AA test - [ID 0073][Parent 0001] If From Sunrise To Sunset (same day) And Status 'Door Switches / Costco Rm - Door Sensor' is On Then Set 'DN White Fridge Alcove#' On Else Set 'DN White Fridge Alcove#' Off Using Sunrise to Sunset since it's currently daytime for me. This works as expected. So then I modify to: AA test - [ID 0073][Parent 0001] If From Sunset To Sunrise (next day) And Status 'Door Switches / Costco Rm - Door Sensor' is On Then Set 'DN White Fridge Alcove#' On Else Set 'DN White Fridge Alcove#' Off And this does not work as I would expect. Now during a daytime time, the light does not turn on but the light will turn off if it was on for some reason. My actual garage light programs are separated into on and off programs anyway. If dark they turn on if any door is opens, and they turn off anytime the last door closes: =================================================================================== Garage Lights - [ID 0058][Parent 0001] Folder Conditions for 'Garage Lights' If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Allow the programs in this folder to run. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Auto Off - [ID 0059][Parent 0058] If ( Control 'Door Switches / Garage to House Door' is switched Off And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-North OHD' is Off And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-South OHD' is Off ) Or ( Control 'Door Switches / Garage-North OHD' is switched Off And Status 'Door Switches / Garage to House Door' is Off And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-South OHD' is Off ) Or ( Control 'Door Switches / Garage-South OHD' is switched Off And Status 'Door Switches / Garage to House Door' is Off And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-North OHD' is Off ) Then Set 'Garage Lights#' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Auto On - [ID 0057][Parent 0058] If $DARK is 1 And ( ( Control 'Door Switches / Garage to House Door' is switched On And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-North OHD' is not On And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-South OHD' is not On ) Or ( Control 'Door Switches / Garage-North OHD' is switched On And Status 'Door Switches / Garage to House Door' is not 100% And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-South OHD' is not On ) Or ( Control 'Door Switches / Garage-South OHD' is switched On And Status 'Door Switches / Garage to House Door' is not 100% And Status 'Door Switches / Garage-North OHD' is not On ) ) Then Set 'Garage Lights#' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') So it really depends on what the desired behavior is, but I was trying to keep it simple.

I actually had another way "dark" could get set in v4.5.4 based on weather station data. v4.6.2 broke that tho (it takes too long for dark to happen), and when I complained Michael open called me a drama queen in the thread... so i quietly went away and didn't participate here for a long time. I ultimately came up with a method to get light and rain data from my weather station using a rPi and the ISY API. It's not reliable tho (because of an rPI issue) and i don't know enough about python error catching to fix it.

I think there are more problems with this program. The condition "Sunset" only happens at once a day, likewise Sunrise only happens once a day (whether it's today or next day) coupled with an AND it makes a condition that only could possible happen during two moments of a 24 hour period. What I do ise use a state variable that I call "dark", although "nighttime" may be a more descriptive name. From Sunset To Sunrise (Next day) Then dark = 1 else dark = 0 another program: If dark = 1 and status door is open then turn on the light else turn off the light Another advantage to this is "dark" can be used in other programs, and for testing puposes it's easy to manually set dark = 1 during the daytime.

You put UDI in the middle.... * Smarthome/Smartlabs/Insteon = all the same thing, all the same company. * UDI is a different entity. At my prior residence I had a very old house with a very very large X-10 installation. A year ago I decided to build the system in my newer house on Insteon. I don't regret that. Insteon's 8 button keypad doesn't exist in the Z-wave world, and I probably have a dozen of them. But then, I prefer pushing a convenient button to talking (i.e. Alexa). That's a 180 turn for me. When Insteon first came out, I hated the look of the devices and vowed to never buy-in. However, they normalized the look of the switches over time, and instead of mini and maxi controllers all over the house we now have universal remote controls known as Smartphones. Smarthome is a 22 year old (well i say that, but I don't actually know--the smarthome.com domain was registered 2-25-1995 tho) company that used to enjoy being the only game in town. Now tho, they have LOTS of competition, and Smarthome doesn't seem to be catching on to that fact. I characterize Smarthome in general as being stuck in "Archaic mode". They haven't adapted to the times and they don't quite know what's important. An example is a recent transaction, I mis-ordered a 5-pack of switches (ordered 2477s, meant to order 2477d) during the July 4th 25% off sale. I emailed Smarthome explaining what I did and asked for help getting the switches exchanged, I even stated I'm aware you'll charge me freight. They said "no exchanges". It took 2 months to resolve. In the end, I returned the incorrect product which they didn't credit back to my card quickly and efficiently... in fact, I was days away from filing a credit card dispute when the credit finally came thru just days before Labor Day. I also had to wait for the Labor Day sale to re-order the switches i needed. All-in-all, I spent just over 2 months fixing my mistake and getting the correct product. Amazon on the other hand would have made that whole process easy. Amazon would have credited my card as soon as UPS scanned the return for the first time. Amazon's prices are low everyday, I wouldn't have had to wait 2 months for another "holiday sale" to place my re-order. Smarthome also doesn't have a uniform method of distributing the technical information that 3rd party companies, like UDI, need for 3rd party product engineering and support. UDI on the other hand apparently is also experience something that I suppose for lack of better words can be characterized as "growing pains". The critical area seems to be software dev. The 5.0 alpha project is 2.25 years old at this point. 5.x development curbs continued work on 4.x, yet 5.x hasn't even made it to beta--and there is no apparent end in sight watching from where I sit. If I was the only one that lived in my house I might choose to try out the 5.0 Alpha, however I choose to stay on the stable release because others use the system.

Why are you doing it this way? It seems like the hard way...... Set the "On Level [Applied Locally]" to 100% all the time on the device or scene. This will make the switch turn the light on Full. Then use the original 10PM to 7am Set on to 10%. If you actually want the switch on/off to be 10% during those hours then use "adjust scene" If there is no scene because it's just a device, make a scene with just that device in it.

Groups on our Exchange server can be configured so that they are private and can't receive email from anyone outside the group, they can also be configured so they can only receive email internally (not from the external internet). I'm not an Exchange admin anymore tho, so I can't look more closely at how it works today, plus you didn't really say what mail platform you're using but i suspect it might be Exchange because you said Outlook and most Unix based platforms would allow all by default unless specifically restricted later.

I don't think you understand how it works yet. You're going to be back here again after the next time your ISY is rebooted. Also If you intend to know when the battery has died you need to make a program in your ISY that monitors that heartbeat.

When I got my ISY I thought I would end up using both my Insteon Hub and the ISY. I thought wrong. I was convinced in less than 24 hours to get rid of the hub and start from scratch clearing and re-link everything. It actually didn't take long at all because i had a list of device ID (actually I took a picture of every switch or device before the ID number got covered with the plate (or wherever else the labels not accessible.). it's better in the long run. PS - Don't forget to backup regularly.

According to the HD app on my phone my local HD (but USA, not Canada) stocks a variety of Wago's. I'll have to look next time. I did say look, I'd never buy them. If for any reason a push-on connector produces heat then it will someday in the future produce an open circuit, that's just fact. If you've ever been on a hunt for an open circuit caused by backstab quick connection on a switch or outlet that's gone bad killing power in part of a house then you likely won't use push on anything anywhere. If someone's having trouble with wire nuts its likely because they just don't have good technique-- plan ahead, be joining wires that are already grouped running parallel and trimmed to an even length. I think many people just want to jamb a nut on a couple wires they think they can hold in place until they get the nut on, or maybe the sires are really too short to route nicely in the box.

Push on wire connectors are marginally better than the back-stab quick connects on a standard wiring device. The best wire nut on the planet is the Ideal Tan Twister. It grips darn near anything from #22 to #8. Smarthome puts a cheap "tan" imitation wire nut in Insteon device boxes, it's not the same as the Ideal brand Tan Twister tho. Pick up a package of Ideal branded Tan twister and you will notice the difference.

Is your question about the heartbeat and how to monitor it? are you aware you need to create an ISY program that listens for the heartbeat and notifies when it's missing?

I looked back at those fanlinc speed scene's and tried to re-live the moment. I think the difference was I was creating for primary use of that location via keypad buttons, whereas the primary control for the 4 state outdoor lights was to be timers. I actually didn't realize at first my buttons didn't work, I was focused on making the timers work and thought I already knew the manual button over rides would work, and was surprised when they didn't. All In all tho, I learned something I didn't know before and now wonder if I need all 4 scenes. Might have to play with that aspect someday, but for now all works! Thanks again!

FIXED! THANK YOU! I actually didn't know the scene needed to configured twice, once for the ISY/PLM and once for the controller button. I incorrectly thought that if the button was the controller (red) for the scene that when the button turned on the scene would be set as programed for when the PLM is the controller. In most of my cases, all devices in scenes are controllers--but I did somehow manage to accidentally make this same scenario work correctly for 4 buttons and 2 fanlinc's that are elsewhere. I guess I just stumbled on to the solution there by accident, not realizing what I did that made it work.

I have 4 Scene's to control my front Lights. I believe the scenes are set up correctly because when they are controlled via the ISY everything works EXACTLY CORRECTLY. The scenes are, OFF, Early Evening, Late Night and Bright. For a better visual: That's 5 load switching responders to the scene (the # at the end of the description is a note to me that says this device actually switches the load) and 4 Keypad link Buttons on the same 8-button controller at the front door. ( {hide} is for MobiLinc hiding.) These programs control the scenes CORRECTLY: OUT LIghts Sunrise/Sunset - [iD 0004][Parent 0001] If From Sunset To Sunrise (next day) Then Set Scene 'Front Lights - Evening' On Else Set Scene 'Front Lights - Off' On OUT lights Sunset to 10 - [iD 0016][Parent 0001] If Time is 10:00:00PM Then Set Scene 'Front Lights - Late Night' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Additionally, these scene's work exactly correctly via the admin console or mobilinc. The lights behind the 4 buttons used correctly follow the state of the scene. What doesn't work? Pressing one of the buttons at the Front door. All 4 Buttons toggle ON / OFF all devices and buttons. That is, I press E and buttons EFGH all light up and all 5 Loads turn on 100% I press F and buttons EFGH all light up and all 5 Loads turn on 100% I press G and buttons EFGH all light up and all 5 Loads turn on 100% I press H and buttons EFGH all light up and all 5 Loads turn on 100% Conversely pressing any button while the buttons are lit up, sends an off. Basically, all works correctly except my manual scene control at the front door where 4 buttons all act as Bright Scene ON/OFF. What I already tried: Factory Reset, followed by Restore Device from the admin panel. No change. The Device sticker says: Model 2334-222 Rev 7.0 3516 Not sure what other info to include, but try to respond to questions quickly.

SOLVED! Eventually I went searching for non-24VAC timing relay solutions. The problem being "24VAC timing relay" searches find millions of solutions for compressor delay for the HVAC world. My thinking was if I could find the right solution at another voltage it would then be easier to craft a search for the same thing but with 24VAC. I happened onto a 5V DC relay timer. That got me thinking because the EXIO2X4 offers a 5 volt output. Goggling to figure out max current on that pin proved that there may or may not be enough output. Shooting this down left room for new thinking! What about timed relay in 12VDC with a 12VDC wall wart to power it? I already installed a duplex receptacle near the ceiling in the laundry room just for the EZIO2X4. (Carefully choosing a horizontal wall wart that could be plugged into the top half of the outlet with the EZIO2X4 in the bottom half.) Amazon delivered both this morning (or should I say the USPS, I'm always amazed the USPS does Sunday deliveries for Amazon). The hardest part was figuring out the programming of the relay. No documentation arrives with the relay board of course, one must rely on the "text picture" from amazon. Eventually I got the board set to mode "P3", with a "t1" time of 00 and a "t2" time of "03" (0.3 seconds) with "C-" (cycle times) set to "01". Essentially: ISY -> Insteon -> EZIO2X4 output R1 -> Qianson 12V relay -> Back Doorbell As noted in the original post the reason for two relay chain is the timing. "Set RearDoorbell On, Set RearDoorbell Off" takes too long due to the nature of Insteon. Adding the timing relay allows us to better simulate a human button press. Specifically in mode P3, the relay closes for .3 seconds and does not re-trigger until the EZIO2X4 R1 relay has turned off and turned back on. No pictures yet. My work is really quite ugly at the moment. Now that I have a working solution I'll order some kind of hoffman box or hinged cabinet and get it looking better, and perhaps try to draw all the circuits in use, in paint or photoshop and post back soon. I looked at the Insteon doorbell kit, but it was really a waste in my case, because we have no landline phone to use that input, and because it supplies inputs only, there was no output for my "rear" door desired usage. Now you know how! (see above) Pictures to come. Thanks, I didn't want to actually put a button at the backdoor, I wanted the ISY to be able to sound that chime when ANY door opens or closes (all doors have Insteon door switches) Also I have no ELK inputs. And although I didn't state it above, I avoid IFTTT, especially for something like this... it would add latency of seconds.... I was actually typing a reply to you to ask how you did the circuit with the dryer, and if you had any pointers on where to start with "Usually you can extend the drop out time of a DC relay with a series diode, resistor, and large capacitor across the coil." when I discovered the timing relay board above. A circuit like you were describing was exactly what I was hoping someone would teach me how to do when I wrote the first post. ____________________________ Thanks to all! I'll try to post pictures and wiring diagrams later.

Hope I'm picking the correct board for this post..... Also, I've tried various internet searches, unfortunately due to massive online talk about Ring WIFI/Video Doorbells any search for what I'm attempting to do seems impossible. If a different thread already exists just point me to it. Background: My house has a "front" doorbell. It does not have a "rear" doorbell. The standard doorbell chime, of course, has provisions for "front" (ding-dong) and "rear" (ding) sounds. (I've also extended the primary original chime using Carlon Extend-A-Chime products, this works great. The "transmitter" is a simple 3-wire RF transmitter that wires directly to chime itself.) Since the "rear" terminal was unused, I want my ISY-994 to be able to ring the "rear" doorbell. (I want to use it as a door chime actually, all the doors have an Insteon Recessed Door Sensor or the surface mount.) I also wanted the ISY to know when someone was ringing the "front" doorbell. I also wanted the ISY to know when my builder installed interconnected 120v BRK/First Alert Smoke alarms were in alarm mode. 1 output 2 inputs needed. After some research, I ordered: Smartenit EZIO2X4 (sidenote: WOW this product is poorly documented, took me hours to figure a couple things out) 2- relays with 24v coils BRK RM4 relay. The "front" doorbell part of the project works perfectly. I used one of the 24v relays in parallel with the chime coil. Once I finally figured out how to use the I1+ and I1- terminals of the EZIO2X4 with dry contacts (not well documented). When a person presses the front door button I now receive a phone notification. Works Perfect. Same with the smoke alarms basically. The RM4 relay is wired to I2 of the EZIO2X4. Works Perfect. The Problem: I've only had marginal success with the ISY ringing the "rear" door chime. Using R1 relay on the EZIO2X4 is too slow by itself. That is, "Set Chime On, Set Chime Off" in a program doesn't happen fast enough. (I expected this actually, due to the nature of Insteon.) First try, of course, was to simply use R1 as the "button" in the "rear" circuit. It probably takes over 1 second tho for R1 to cycle on/off via a program. It's too long, the chime coil buzzes (which will likely burn the coil up eventually), the Extend-A-Chimes remotes repeat chime several times. Failure. I anticipated exactly this before I started. Next try, using a second 24 volt coil relay, again the relay coil is parallel to the chime coil, sort of. The chime coil side is also wired thru NC - C relay contacts of relay. When the relay energizes it breaks the connection to the chime coil. This unfortunately happens too fast. 50% weak chime/50% no chime, the Extend-A-Chimes fire more often but still not 100%. Next try, no doorbell coil, just extend-A-Chime. This fails too. Wired without the relay contacts in the middle the remote chime repeats several times. Using the NC - C relay contacts as above apparently it's still too fast. Frequently rung it seems to work well enough, however if it sits (I presume capacitors discharging) the next ring will not fire the remote chimes (I'm guessing because it happened too fast to charge the capacitors that power the RF transmitter, ringing in succession however works because capacitors have retained charge.) Solutions that interests me: Figuring out how to energize the 24V relay for about 300 to 500 milliseconds, to simulate a human pushing a doorbell button. Bonus if time is adjustable. One idea I've had his using an Arduino in the middle. Input rise from EZIO2X4 R1 energizes one of the outputs briefly, no repeat until input falls. I haven't actually tried to design this beyond concept yet, but it seems feasible. The factor I don't like is having another externally powered device (Arduino) involved. I found a very expensive ($189) programmable relay that looked like it would do the trick, but that's too expensive. I looked thru hobby relay boards (the $10-$20 type) for something with time delay but they all seem to be created for the opposite problem, holding the relay contacts longer than the coil is energized, or the many thousands designed for the HVAC industry that prevent re-energizing too soon (i.e. Compressor delay). Momentary relay doesn't seem to be a thing. I can think of a solution that uses 2 regular 24v coil and one latching relay, there must be a better way tho... I don't know how to design a simple timer circuit, but if anyone can point me to something, I can order parts and solder very well. I'm also open to pretty much any means of communication from the ISY994i ZW/IR Pro. I know nothing about Z-wave, but have the ability. (Z-wave wasn't why I picked that model and so far haven't used Z-wave.) Something I'm not interested in: Different Annunciation. My current doorbell system works great (the extend-A-Chime remotes even work in an outbuilding and by the pool--I don't need to re-invent that), I want to make the existing annunciation system work by simulating a doorbell button push using a relay. EXIO2X4 Problems: If you landed on this post because a search engine dropped you here from an EXIO2X4 search. Something that is VERY VERY important that is VERY VERY poorly documented regarding Smartenit EXIO2X4: If you are NOT using I3/AN1 or I4/AN2 you absolutely MUST jumper those inputs to GND. What happens if you don't is the EXIO2X4 will generate an endless stream of Insteon traffic that will jam your Insteon network. If you ARE using I3/AN1 or I4/AN2 be vary careful what you connect, something that clearly pulls high or grounds, anything that floats will cause TONS of Insteon traffic.