Harold

Thanks Teken. The square pad. I could not find one I could see to confirm that. Been way too long since I played with my soldering irons. And then I could actually see what I was doing. An irrelevant side note. I have had an awful time trying to get solder out of the holes. I have tried compressed air, 3 kinds of solder sucker, and copper braid (with and without added flux [NOT plumbing flux]). A properly sized fine metal pointed object (preferably of SS or something that will not bond to solder) would probably work on hot solder without damaging anything. I could not find any of mine. The only thing my efforts accomplished was that I may have damaged a trace on the board. Mostly I could get one cleaned, but not the other. It may be that one is thru hole and the other is not. Because of a comment here somewhere, I am aware that there is thru hole plating on this board. Hence, no small drills to be safe. Everything is now soldered. For those that also don't do this a lot. What worked: Empty at least one hole with one of the above tools. If you can't get one clear, clean off as much solder as you can and put the long lead through with a soldering iron on the hole. After deciding which hole you are going to start with, cut leads to a length which gets the caps to about the right height after install plus an inch or so on the lead going in the clean (or first) hole (may need a bit of heat to convince it to go all the way through). Cut the second lead a bit shorter. Stick the long wire through said hole and push it through until the short lead touches the hole still full of solder. If the long one is free to move, just heat up the other hole. If not, heat both. For wide spacing, it may be a rocking sort of action . Heat one hole and push a bit. Go to other hole and repeat as needed. Be sure you leave enough lead to get the cap down close enough to the board. If the replacement caps have a different lead spacing you need some room to adjust if necessary. Remember: the new part will have a long lead on the positive side. The positive hole in the board should have + sign and/or a square pad for + and round for -. Don't just start with the existing long lead in any old hole. You should probably shorten both leads and then make one shorter. Pay attention. Next to get a fire extinguisher and try the repaired device. Brian - caps on left original values. Caps on right - the ones I used. I did use 100uf. I spent a bunch of time trying to make sense out of the assorted part numbers and manufacturers specs to get all Mouser without compromising anything. I think I got it right. Boy, I sure wish I could get this kind of rapid and useful information from the sites I am trying for fixing my dishwasher. RESULTS: DEAD AS A DOOR NAIL

A teeny bit more help. I did a dumb. I am replacing the large cap on the daughter board. I did not look at polarity first. My messing around getting the original cap off has obscured/destroyed the + sign. Can someone please tell me the direction of the positive terminal? Referring to an earlier post: no problem with the glob of glue on the LED. Pulled right off the plastic. Just FIY, there are the caps I finally purchased: I was able to purchase all the caps from Mouser. List revised by Harold Original Part New Part# C3 Replace YICCON 6.8uF 250V cap with ESX106M400AH4AA 10uF 400 volt C11 Replace FUJICON 100uF 25V cap with UTT1E101MPD 100uF 25 volt C7,13 Replace SAMCON 10uF 35v cap with EKY-500ETD101MHB5D 100uF 50V (2 of these) ***HLH C8 Replace FUJICON 10uF 16V cap with UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt C2D Daughter board 100uF 6.8V EKY-100ETD101ME11D 100uF 10V ***HLH C2D is the daughter board cap.

Looking at the PLM duaghter board, there is a place for a largish capacitor C1. Is there any point to trying to find what that was and put one in? Oops - a no longer used fuse. Yet another question: any suggestions for getting the main board out of the case to access the solder side. Mine has the LED under a large glob of glue.

Brian, I am going to replace the 100 uF 6.8V cap on the daughter board. Could you possibly suggest a replacement? I am intending to use Mouser. But I find myself going around in circles with their web site and cap "series". And a Mouser available replacement for the UTS1C100MDD 10uF 16 volt. Then all we need is a way to copy newer firmware from one device to one with an older version.

I have installed firmware V4.3.26 and admin 4.4.1. I loaded the application not the applet. I strongly suspect my PLM has failed (found, of course, the day after the 20% sale. I am trying to run the console without my firewall to make sure there is not a problem with my recently updated version of Bitdefender. Although I don't think it should care about allowable local LAN devices. I want to start the console with the firewall off and thus have disconnected the cable modem to do the test. I really do not care to connect without protection. My understanding is that the program versions of the console are not dependent on anything but the computer (i.e., no internet). It will not initialize. The error log seems to be saying at the end of much stuff, that I need to contact my isp to find out why I am not connected to the internet. Am I doing or understand something wrong, or does the console actually require something on the internet to load.

I took one more shot at it - it worked. Why - I don't know. I must have been messing up when I placed the info into the finder. That is the only thing I can think of. Thanks for the responses.

I am afraid I don't understand what needs to be done when installing Insteon. I am simply too unknowledgeable to even understand what the instructions mean. I feel pretty sure the majority of people messing with this stuff are much more familiar with all of these things, but after a bunch of searching I have not found an explanation in a language for dummies. One item is the ISY finder window. When I try to log into the admin console, the window pops up showing no content. If I just close it, admin will not open. I don't know what to put in there. I have tried permutations of http://192.168.xx.xx/admin. I do not use DHCP. I have not found the correct entry. The other is just what to do with the links in the post on the 4.3.26 section 4. a. Got that. The admin console Java application is loaded. I expected the link to download an installable file but see that it actually installs the application. That is good. b. I don't understand this one. It is a link. It looks like it wants to do something with the IP address of the ISY. Possibly related to the ISY finder thing. Clicking the link does not appear to do anything except try to find and address it does not know (my ISY). Which rather makes sense since it wants my ISY IP address. I tried copying the text of the "link" and editing it with my IP address and ran it in my browser window. That got me to a full admin console without being stopped by ISY find. But ISY find still opened. If I got this right - should it really be a link or just a text field with instructions to copy and edit the contents in a browser search window and enter the resulting text.. c. and d. From reading labels, it appears there are two types of things that run with Java. Applications and applets. I remember reading somewhere here that they operate differently. I presume I should not be fooling with them if I did a and b. I am pretty sure I have displayed a pitiful understanding. But it is what I got. Maybe some others are in my state of expertise and would benefit from a few more words in this section explaining how do use these pieces.

I recently installed the Microsoft Enhanced Mitigation Experience Toolkit to improve protection against things not covered by other anti XX software I am running. Now, whenever I try to open the ISY Admin Console, it is blocked by the EMET software. I have checked the table of permitted applications and java and javaws are included multiple times. I seriously lack understanding of what the various entries in DMET actually mean (after trying to read the documentation). Way above my pay grade. I am running almost the current release of the UDI software. Java is current. Has anyone had and fixed this problem or has an idea how I might resolve it?

OK Lee. I remain somewhat confused. An example of one of my switches: Top left under the part number - 0903 (manufacture date?) Bottom left V1.2 0213 (or maybe manufacturing date?) Version number shown at the end of the line when looking at the device from the admin console. V.33 So we (us and Michel) are talking about the Firmware version as V.33 in this case. So there is no way to know what the firmware version is unless the switch is on the power line and recognized by the UD controller? Is the V1.2 on the paper label of the switch then the hardware version. My gut feeling is that this would also be an important factor in knowing if a switch is like to be trouble prone. Is there a list somewhere showing some sort of acceptability factors for both hardware and firmware levels. I held off for several years waiting for things to stabilize. I would really like to know if I have any devices that are much more likely to cause problems than later hardware of firmware releases. I have enough problems without mixing random junk. I have a fairly large number of Insteon devices sitting in a box waiting for me to finish the house control system.

Michel, were you talking about hardware versions in you post earlier in this thread? The numbers you were using appeared to be hardware versions.

What about KeypadLinks before V2. I have a V1.2 I removed while working on this system and it fixed that part of my problem. It behaved like you said. Flaky control. Sometimes it would work, sometimes it would do something else. Not associated with the problem I am trying to resolve in this thread. Even odder. All of rest of the KeypadLincs have stickers on the front of the device saying they are V1.2. But they are reporting themselves as V.33 (yes V.33) on My Lighting. These are all involved in the scene I am having all the trouble with.

Gee Michel, you certainly know how to brighten my day. I have at least three of them. And I may have more in a box of yet to be installed switches. I don't have many dimmers planned so I may not have any more or any that are not V2. I am guessing I really should replace all of them? I will have to talk to Insteon and see if they will do anything. If they were really bad they may have some sort of deal. Thanks Michel and thank you as well LeeG for taking the time to help.

OK. Here is a log taken with level 3. A couple of light on/off from the admin console. Then write updates to the device. Events theater lvl 3.txt

I am going to do it again with level 3. Probably not until tomorrow. Is there anything else necessary to post the log here?

Actually what I was referring to was the horrible formatting when opened with Notepad. Looking at the event viewer screen it seem to have useful information about what was happening. Just use WordPad or another reasonable editor and it is fine.

I have been redoing all of my lights. Some have worked properly; some behaved oddly. The ones that behaved oddly work properly now. I cleared them and reloaded them. There are two sets still not doing what they should. One set is a multiple fixture, multiple Insteon control switches that just are not behaving as a scene. They used to. Anyway, that one is next. The one driving me crazy is a single 8 button dimmer. Only the first two buttons are in use (Theater.1 and theater.. The first button is for theater lights and was working just fine. Now when I press it, rather than bringing the lights up to 20%, it does full bright. If I hold the button it will take the dimmer up and down. The second button is part of the other scene I mentioned above. I have tried clearing the unit (pull out the tab), setting it (push in tab and try to load from admin), multiple times. It always fails saying it can't communicate with theater.1. But if I use the admin console, I can control the theater.1 function. I have attached a log file. The first set of entries is me trying to turn the light on and off from Admin. Initially it fails and then it is OK. The second set is trying to write the updates to the device. It appears to do most everything and then fail on the first button. Can anyone please give me some idea what is going on and what to try. I just looked at the attached file. It is rather horrible to read. I just saved it as text from the console. Should I be doing that differently? ISY-Write to theater 1.txt

Using all four of the REST commands. Using admin console 4.1.3 with firmware 4.1.2 Each set brought back the appropriate icon. If they go away again without a restart of the console I will report that here.

I tried the first REST command This XML file does not appear to have any style information associated with it. The document tree is shown below. 200 Is this what should happen?

It does not work consistently with the new admin console release. I closed and restarted the console from the link above and the second time I did it I got an icon for battery powered controllers, but none for wired modules.

Michel, I loaded the new administrative application and both of the appearing and disappearing icons are present. Anyone else following this should try it out and lets see if it actually fixes the problem. I am not going to restart just now. I have some work to get done before my wife starts prying Insteon controllers out of the walls. I will try it a few times later. Thanks Michel.

The response to the ticket was quick - good job. The answer is BS.

OK Michel, I will do that. But I would like to point out that more people than I have the problem across multiple firmware releases. And you guys said you were working on it. If you could ask whomever gets the ticket to read this thread first to avoid answering all the applicable questions again, that would be nice..

Opened Dec 09 - still no resolution to this issue. I have updated to 4.1.2 beta. Still the same behavior. THIS IS NOT A TRIVIAL PROBLEM. Every time I make any change (as part of numerous ones I plan to make) the application spends several minutes locked up in writing. This is pretty much completely unacceptable behavior! A real time destroyer.

I have started the admin console multiple times over the last week or two. Sometimes I get the automatic update of non-battery; sometimes I don't. Something else I just noticed. And this may be a pure hallucination on my part. I am just not positive, but I do not think I was getting the black text entries in the scenes before. Today I was going through a bunch of scenes to see if they really did what I think they should and suddenly noticed them. I actually spent time trying to search for the meaning of the black text. I think it was new on this start of the console. FWIW