Uh Oh, got the call you NEVER want to get from the Wife

[arw01]

Called to have me turn ON the bathroom light, the switch would not respond to physical control..

 

It DID turn on remotely and I need to fix her mobilinc again obviously, but there goes 6 months of WAF out the window.

 

I have not checked or reset the switch yet, and it's a brand new dual band from the last 2 months dimmer straight from Smarthome. Anyone ever had a switch not respond to local control, but take the control from the ISY still?

 

Alan

[Xathros]

Alan-

 

Yes. I have had a few Toggleincs where the internal circuit board had popped off of it's plastic clips moving the buttons away from the paddle to the point where local control was not possible. In each case I was able to repair the device and addes a few drops of hot glue to help prevent a repeat.

 

I have never seen a switchlink fail like that however.

 

-Xathros

[arw01]

I came home to find one LED was flickering on and off, while 2 others were fine and the regular light was still on fine. No response to the paddle, but holding it down to dim caused the flickering LED to become solid on that one light.

 

Pulled the air gap for 3 seconds, shoved it back in and full paddle operation was restored. SO I think maybe someone got that air switch a touch out of kilter and that was the issue, I hope.

 

The old X10 units got slide over once in a while, so the wife seems satisfied with this answer until the next time. Told her if it does it again, that the switch was under warranty as it was brand new and I would just swap it out!

[Brian H]

Could also be the the module got confused by a noise glitch and the Air Gap Switch did a power up reset to get the microcontroler back into a stable state.

[madcodger]

FWIW, I've had it happen at least 2-3 times over 2 houses, but only once with newer (2011 on) switches.

[apostolakisl]

I have some icon switches that have locked up in the on state a bunch of times. But if memory serves me, they didn't respond to ISY either. Pulling the air gap always fixed them. It was clearly a case of the micro-controller getting caught in an unrecoverable error.

[Brian H]

I rendered my whole system deaf with a combination of X10 scene addresses programed into early firmware Insteon Modules. Should not be an issue these days.

 

If you are curious.

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=2752

[johnnyt]

I've had several switchlincs not turn off over the years where pulling the air gap fixed it. While I've told the wife to "just pull the pin" (chuckling inside as I said it) she's yet to do it - I've gotten the call each time and overall the WAF has taken a bit of a hit. The worst incident though was when a keypadlinc would not turn off the load even after I pulled the air gap. I think I had to factory reset and restore the thing. I was able to fix it before the wife found out but have to say I wasn't too impressed. Fortunately I've only seen the latter once in my 3-4 years of having insteon.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Xathros]

I have always thought that the airgap switch was on the hot lead going into the insteon device. If that is the case, then pulling the airgap must cut power to the load unless the load it controlled by a linked device rather than the device in question.

 

I have a junk Togglelinc Relay on the bench. I'll have to trace the airgap switch back and see where it goes.

 

-Xathros

[Brian H]

Air Gap switch is on the Black Line Input wire. Also has the set button tact switch behind it that is activated if you push it all the way in.

 

I looked at a recent hardware v4.1 ToggleLinc Relay. The Black Line wire is directly connected to the Air Gap Switch.

I can't say about the present ToggleLincs with the internal beeper as their boards are different.

 

Only exception is the early SwitchLinc Relay modules. It had no Air Gap Switch and if you pulled out the tab. You broke it off.