SwitchLinc, KeypadLinc Mounting Issues

[Waketech]

I have mounted a few of these and it seems that I cannot get this to sit flat against the box, the culprit seems to be the ground wire going from the device to the box.  Have any of you had this issue and if so what have you done to fix it.  I would prefer not having to notch the metal box with a dremel tool, etc.

[paulbates]

Yes, it can be tough and take a lot time to get right. Especially with metal gang boxes in older (circa 1950) homes

 

 

Here is what I did. Leviton makes a nice decora switchplate set that has cover that snaps over. It leaves some room for the switch.

 

This is not the best picture, but it gives you an idea of how it will look. That kept me from "sawing and banging" on the switch. It does take longer than i'd like to get the faceplate depth exactly right, but I have been able to do it

 

[Waketech]

Paul,

 

Thanks, up here in Canada metal box's is all that is installed unless it's structured wiring (Ethernet, Coax, speaker wire, etc).  What do you use to stand the device off from the box or does the Levition plate come with something ?.

[paulbates]

It comes with a plastic plate that mounts were the normal leviton cover. The cover you see snaps to that. It's worth getting one and playing with it to see what you think.

[paulbates]

You can also shim the first plate with foil, milk jug plastic, etc, depending the wall and the box positioning

[Techman]

Is your metal box connected via romex or metal conduit? If it's metal conduit then you box may already be grounded and you may not need the ground wire.

[Waketech]

I will give the leviton option a try.  The wire is romex and there are other wires that are physically grouned to the box via the grounding screws at the back of the box.  I would assume that the screws of the switchLinc would also act as a ground (carrying through to the ground wires of the other cables) but I could be wrong.

[stusviews]

If the box is metal and ground wires are connected to the box, then the ground wire attached to INSTEON  device is not needed. I do removem then in that situation, especially for relay devices such as the OutletLinc and KPL On/Off as those are heavier wire than other devices. And to do so is in accordeance with both the National and Canadian codes.

[paulbates]

This is a follow up to recommending the Leviton decora switchplate covers above. I had an energy audit where an IR scanner was waved at different things to see how leaky they were air wise, including switch plates. The leviton decora covers I described above didn't do well.

 

One of their downsides is that they don't use the small switchplate screws at all as part of the structure. The plastic mount screws in with the switch, and the decorative plate snaps to that. There is not much structure to where it connects. It was always work to get it right and some shimming was sometimes needed. They always looked good but were hard to get right, especially with switchlinc bulk and grounding straps.

 

In looking to replace the levitons, I found the Lutron Claro. These are much sturdier and cover a little more area. The Claro's mount screws onto the switchplate cover screw holes near the edge, nice and tight. The the cover has four solid snaps into the side of the cover. Much thicker and solid.

 

The Claro's downside is that the top cover snaps on before the wall, and there is a visible line. The picture exaggerates it, its not too noticeable. Given how much more solid it is, I'm switching the rest out.

 

[Jimbo.Automates]

Thanks for the info Paul. I have a few of the insteon brand plates and really liked how solid they mounted, but the are so expensive. Those lutrons look good and much cheaper.

 

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