7 zone 2441TH Thermostat setup

[Xathros]

FYI, Xathros pointed me here:

 

http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13909-call-for-network-resources-crowdsourcing-request/

 

Very clever -- and after import -- very clear.  Should get me going just fine.

 

Now to find a slick way to drill through inter-stud blocking 4' up from the floor to run new cable... else I am doing a ton of drywall repair.

 

Thanks again!!

50/50

I use one of these for that kind of work.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Flexible-Drill-Bit-Kit-3-Piece-53721/203913339

 

-Xathros

[larryllix]

We like them a little stiffer   Used from the bottom there should be  less chance to  wander out the side of the drywall cavity. Make sure the attachment points are very secure. They can be really hard to retrieve inside a joist cavity covered in drywall. (closet hole time!) When the Irwin Speedbore gets stuck and you pull back it can come loose easily.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-24-in-Bit-Extension-for-Selfeed-Bits-Auger-Bits-and-Hole-Saws-DISCONTINUED-48-28-4016/100007181

 

 

The other way is to get a snap in aftermarket 2x3 electrical box. Cut your hole and drill through your invisible 2x4 from there, using a long extension bit to get the steep angle.  Drill your hole up through the  bottom 2x4 plate and floor sheeting and then use the "weight on a string" method to dance a weight through both holes from the top. After you get the cable pulled up thread on the receptacle box (tie a knot)  and mount it into the drywall hole.  Mount your thermostat on the 2x3 box. Some adapter plate may be needed but probably not. You may want to stuff the box with insulation to avoid inside wall draughts affecting the operation.

[50-50]

The aforementioned items were not in stock at the local store, however, I ended up buying a couple of these with a 16" long 5/8" drill bit.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-12-in-Daredevil-QC-Spade-Bit-Extension-DQCE1012/203811090 , its rigid enough, and I can feed extensions as needed to work around obstacles in the basement ceiling.

 

Status:

 

I have 5 of 7 of the sites in place after a Sunday of wiring.  I left the toughest ones for after I have practice.  I did hit a nail on the first one, before the bit could grab, and the bit blew out the drywall.. if that's the only repair, it was well worth it.  Also taught me to aim for the middle!  Some pics attached, including my little drywall blowout.  The bottom of the firestop is 3"  below the tiny tstat wire hole.  (note: I was tempted to just lower the tstat 3", but this is right above a shelf, and did not want to limit airflow, or use of the shelf).

 

I am installing Honeywell RTH6450D1009 digital setback thermostats in place of the existing Honeywell T8775A1009's, to provide for an "its too cold in here" override.  I've adapted the back plates to accept the 1-wire thermocouples, making them unobtrusive (a design requirement from the boss).  I've also pulled a 5-conductor tstat cable for the future, the house only has 2-conductor in it. 

 

Why, oh why, do we not build with the future in mind?

 

 

 

 

[larryllix]

The aforementioned items were not in stock at the local store, however, I ended up buying a couple of these with a 16" long 5/8" drill bit.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-12-in-Daredevil-QC-Spade-Bit-Extension-DQCE1012/203811090 , its rigid enough, and I can feed extensions as needed to work around obstacles in the basement ceiling.

 

Status:

 

I have 5 of 7 of the sites in place after a Sunday of wiring.  I left the toughest ones for after I have practice.  I did hit a nail on the first one, before the bit could grab, and the bit blew out the drywall.. if that's the only repair, it was well worth it.  Also taught me to aim for the middle!  Some pics attached, including my little drywall blowout.  The bottom of the firestop is 3"  below the tiny tstat wire hole.  (note: I was tempted to just lower the tstat 3", but this is right above a shelf, and did not want to limit airflow, or use of the shelf).

 

I am installing Honeywell RTH6450D1009 digital setback thermostats in place of the existing Honeywell T8775A1009's, to provide for an "its too cold in here" override.  I've adapted the back plates to accept the 1-wire thermocouples, making them unobtrusive (a design requirement from the boss).  I've also pulled a 5-conductor tstat cable for the future, the house only has 2-conductor in it. 

 

Why, oh why, do we not build with the future in mind?

Ouch! With  that repair in mind I would have to contemplate cutting a big hole out back to the studs and stick the drill into the wall. That is of course f you have access to a piece of drywall and screws and are good with it. Otherwise slap some glue inside the break and sand after the spackle drying. Repainting will be a gimmie. Use a roller or stipple with the ends of the brush bristles to match the existing paint texture. Stuff the hole with some newspaper to stop draughts from the attic wiring holes.

[50-50]

Yeah, bad news was the blow out, the good news is I only have one visible hole to patch vs 5 drops completed (so far.. two left to do).  I was almost going to just cut the holes, insert the drill and then repair -- but two of the rooms have swirled glaze paint -- fortunately they bored cleanly from below.  Its also why I chose a "plain paint" wall first, as it likely had the highest risk of something going wrong, as far as first times go.

 

For one of the other 5, I did cut a hole in a closet wall (opposite the tstat in the main bathroom) as there is plumbing in that wall.  Did not want to knick it!  That interior wall was insulated too -- fun to find the fish tape -- so I need to refill it with some batt.  While I have lots of drywall on hand, I don't have any extra insulation.  Perhaps I should just get a little roll. On the positive side, all holes are from below, so no header holes and attic drafts.  I also want to keep access .. so no Great Stuff .. which makes a mess.

[larryllix]

Yeah, bad news was the blow out, the good news is I only have one visible hole to patch vs 5 drops completed (so far.. two left to do).  I was almost going to just cut the holes, insert the drill and then repair -- but two of the rooms have swirled glaze paint -- fortunately they bored cleanly from below.  Its also why I chose a "plain paint" wall first, as it likely had the highest risk of something going wrong, as far as first times go.

 

For one of the other 5, I did cut a hole in a closet wall (opposite the tstat in the main bathroom) as there is plumbing in that wall.  Did not want to knick it!  That interior wall was insulated too -- fun to find the fish tape -- so I need to refill it with some batt.  While I have lots of drywall on hand, I don't have any extra insulation.  Perhaps I should just get a little roll. On the positive side, all holes are from below, so no header holes and attic drafts.  I also want to keep access .. so no Great Stuff .. which makes a mess.

Sounds like you are doing OK with the whole thing! Bravo!

 

Another tip. Most ballpoint pen ink can cover Great Stuff splotches on blue jeans but have to be redone after several washes each time,   I have a few of them. Keep the varsol or paint thinner handy and have a second party check you over immediately after use.

[50-50]

Slightly off my own topic, but relevant to what I am doing here...  is there a 120v switch (decora / wall switch) that will give me:

 

CC, CV, PPW, TPW and PF?

 

It seems 2477S does not.

 

Ref:  http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Series_INSTEON:Custom_Email_Substitution_Variables

 

Edit>> potentially an outlet could do the trick, but it would need to be in an enclosure outside (there is a GFI outlet out there now).

[50-50]

Moving along...

 

Temp sensors are in (11 total so far, 7 with attached thermostats.... 9 more to go), bridge is dumping values to ISY.  I am able to log and graph right out of the ISY using client side JS and the webserver...  Although the charting needs some work to allow zooming and panning... (a little beyond my knowledge right now and not the primary concern).

 

Some pics attached.

 

In the graph, the top line is the "binary boiler on/off".. two of those bumps are the shower.  The rest is heating.  Cold already in the north east.

 

Now to write some control programs.