Waketech Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 All, Just got my thermostat in the yesterday, my current thermostat only has two wire from the garage heater. I am not sure of the exact connections however basically open/closed connection from the existing thermostat (the heater came with an old mechanical one). In any case I see that I require 24 VAC to power the 2441TH, I assume I can get a power supply from an electrical place to provide power, however were do the other two wires go on the 2441TH ?. Thanks Link to comment
Techman Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Waketech, It doesn't appear that the thermostat is compatible with your system. See attached installation notes. You might be able to use the relay in an IOLinc to turn on your heater and a wireless thermostat to control the IOLinc. Link to comment
stusviews Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Any 24VAC transformer/power supply will work. Connect one terminal of the power supply to 24COM. Connect the other side of the power supply and one of the two existing thermostat wires to 24R. Connect the other thermostat wire to W1. Link to comment
larryllix Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 All, Just got my thermostat in the yesterday, my current thermostat only has two wire from the garage heater. I am not sure of the exact connections however basically open/closed connection from the existing thermostat (the heater came with an old mechanical one). In any case I see that I require 24 VAC to power the 2441TH, I assume I can get a power supply from an electrical place to provide power, however were do the other two wires go on the 2441TH ?. Thanks What is the voltage across the two wires? If it isn't 24vac you may have taken out a line voltage thermostat and you may get some fire. Link to comment
Techman Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 If you put 24 volts on a system that is a millivolt system you'll most likely burn out the coil in the gas valve. (a millivolt system uses a thermocouple which is heated by the pilot light and produces a low voltage that opens the gas valve). If the heater has only two wires running to the thermostat then it's most likely a millivolt system. Link to comment
Waketech Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 So I did a little investigation in the garage and found the following... The heater has the following connection points R G W1 W2 My current thermostat (2 wire) is connected to R and W1, I then measured the voltage across R and G and got approx 27 VAC, based on this do you have any further wiring suggestions ? Link to comment
larryllix Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Usually and typically the wires wlll be as follows: R = Red (I think 'red Hot') =24vac G = Green (I think 'Grill') =fan only control W1= White (I think 'Warm 1') = first stage of heating W2= Brown? (I think 'Warm 2') =second stage of heating Some thermostats will run off just the two wires R-W1 in a parasitic mode with a battery to carry them over when the contacts are closed and the voltage is (almost) shorted. I am not sure how Insteon controllable units do it These should be compatible with almost any thermostat. I would be looking inside the heater to convert that W2 to a 24vac ground/common to run to your 'stat so you have both 24vac and common. Many times the common is connected to the frame. Link to comment
Waketech Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Usually and typically the wires wlll be as follows: R = Red (I think 'red Hot') =24vac G = Green (I think 'Grill') =fan only control W1= White (I think 'Warm 1') = first stage of heating W2= Brown? (I think 'Warm 2') =second stage of heating Some thermostats will run off just the two wires R-W1 in a parasitic mode with a battery to carry them over when the contacts are closed and the voltage is (almost) shorted. I am not sure how Insteon controllable units do it These should be compatible with almost any thermostat. I would be looking inside the heater to convert that W2 to a 24vac ground/common to run to your 'stat so you have both 24vac and common. Many times the common is connected to the frame. I assume I can use any ground point inside the heater (earth ground and/or the ground for the 120 VAC power that is used for the fan) ? Link to comment
Waketech Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 All, if it helps the heater is a Reznor UDAP http://www.rezspec.com/files/I-UDA%20%28Version%20B.8%29%20PN195673R23%20smallest.pdf Here is a link to the thermostat http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2441TH.pdf Link to comment
larryllix Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 I assume I can use any ground point inside the heater (earth ground and/or the ground for the 120 VAC power that is used for the fan) ? You really should find the ground point and connect as close as possible to the transformer for the best reliability but you need to prove the 24vac return is grounded first. Meter from R to case for the same voltage but you should still see the connection for best proof. Link to comment
larryllix Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 All, if it helps the heater is a Reznor UDAP http://www.rezspec.com/files/I-UDA%20%28Version%20B.8%29%20PN195673R23%20smallest.pdf Here is a link to the thermostat http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/2441TH.pdf The diagram shows a "C" terminal. That will be your "Common" to the "R". The connections are all there. You just need to run a 5-conductor cable to the thermostat and duplicate the terminal numbers. R-R, W-W1, W2-W2, G-G, C-C. Link to comment
Waketech Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 All, Finally got around to doing this, found the following on the control board C - R - Had external connection G - Had external connection W1 - Had external connection W2 - The C and W2 were not wired, so I added a pin to the plug to allow for a C wire and everything worked out. The unit does not have secondary heat (W2) so I am only using 4 wires and everything is working fine, thanks all for the help. Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Nice! Happy programming! Link to comment
Waketech Posted October 6, 2014 Author Share Posted October 6, 2014 Nice! Happy programming! Thanks, on a side note (posted on another thread) I am having issues with the temp updating unless queried, do you have any isnight in to what might be the problem ? http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/14242-2441th-cuurent-state-update/ Link to comment
Techman Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Waketech, Have you tried doing a factory reset on the device? Link to comment
Waketech Posted October 6, 2014 Author Share Posted October 6, 2014 Waketech, Have you tried doing a factory reset on the device? Not yet, will try tonight and advise Link to comment
Waketech Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 Not yet, will try tonight and advise Tehman, tried reset and no communucation seen on the event viewer (turned heat on to warm, opend gargae door to cool) Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Tehman, tried reset and no communucation seen on the event viewer (turned heat on to warm, opend gargae door to cool) Did you delete it in the ISY, factory reset the 2441TH, and then re-find and link it in the ISY? Link to comment
Techman Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 If larryyllix's suggestion doesn't work then you may have a defective unit. Does the humidity update? Link to comment
Waketech Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 If larryyllix's suggestion doesn't work then you may have a defective unit. Does the humidity update? Techman, I will check but I doubt it. Correct me if I am wrong but when I look in the event viewer I should see the updates/comms from the thermostat when it updates ?. I will try larryllix's suggestion tonight and report back. Thanks Link to comment
Techman Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 You should see log entries every time the temperature or humidity changes. if you're not seeing those in the log and a factory reset doesn't correct the problem then I would try a replacement unit. Link to comment
larryllix Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 On the 2444ZTH unit (I have two but no wired units) the humidity reading updates on a clock basis. On batteries it updates every 5 minutes and on PS it updates every 1 minute. Silly to pick a secondary humidity value to do that but it acts like a heartbeat to indicate life. The temperature only updates by exception (on changes outside of the set bandwidth allowance from the last value sent). Temprature is NOT queriable unless the 244ZTH is in linking mode. My older firmware unit can be set from the ISY but the newer firmware unit cannot be set from ISY. Yes Insteon has been having problems or they wouldn't keep getting more 10 year olds to change their firmware. Again my experience only applies to the wireless 2441ZTH units. YMMV Link to comment
Waketech Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 All, Here are the steps and results 1. Deleted device in ISY 2. Reset Thermostat 3. Re-linked thermostat 4. Synced clock on thermostat with ISY 5. Queried Thermostat to have values show up on ISY 6. Started Log/event viewer (started approx 9:14 pm) The display/status on the ISY did change from the start of the log to end I only had two communications on the event viewer 9:48 pm, DOF 0, ST 0 (This may have been me turning down the thermostat locally) 3:00 am, CLISPH 110, CLIHUM 38, ST 122 Note: I have a clock sync program set to run at midnight and this did not show up, not sure if it would to begin with though. Link to comment
Xathros Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 The only comm I see from the stat is at 3am - likely due to the 3am query running. At that time, the temp was 61F, the stat was set to heat and 55F and the humidity was 38%. -Xathros Link to comment
Waketech Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 The only comm I see from the stat is at 3am - likely due to the 3am query running. At that time, the temp was 61F, the stat was set to heat and 55F and the humidity was 38%. -Xathros I did not run a query (program or manually) so I assume this is a legit communication. I got back from work and looked at the event viewer and it did communicate twice since 7:00 am 12:47:06 am CLIMD 0 12:47:44 am, CLIMD 1 On a side note, do you know where I can get the meaning of these items (example CLIMD) ?, so from this I can assume it is not updating, is there are any detrimental effects from making a program to query, say every 10-15 min ? Link to comment
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