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Controllers (Keypad and Switch) losing contact with Receiver (Switch)


rgn2000

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Posted
I can't see the device in the admin panel. That is my problem.

 

You stated that you were "able to successfully link".  Do you not see this one on your admin panel?

Posted

Okay the SwitchLink in question is now linked. I generally link without entering the addresses, but I decided to give it a shot and the ISY found it and it's working properly. I did have to restore the SwitchLink that it was controlling and that's all set.

 

So the remaining issue is the SwitchLink that will not set to Fixed Brightness. I guess I will call SmartHome and see what they have to say. I see how it works on my other devices so not sure why this particular one will not set.

Posted

If the problem dimmer is newer that any other dimmer you may have, then the difficulty may be your older ISY.

Posted

If the problem dimmer is newer that any other dimmer you may have, then the difficulty may be your older ISY.

 

Why would the ISY have anything to do with it? This is something I am manually trying to do with the set button.

Posted

The last firmware for a ISY99i does not support the latest devices. So some feature maybe missing or will not add to the setup at all.

 

Also NEVER use a the Manual Linking procedures between modules. Only use the Administrative Console to do everything. Any links done manually will not be known to your ISY Controller and will lead to issues or overwritten links in modules.

Posted

The last firmware for a ISY99i does not support the latest devices. So some feature maybe missing or will not add to the setup at all.

 

Also NEVER use a the Manual Linking procedures between modules. Only use the Administrative Console to do everything. Any links done manually will not be known to your ISY Controller and will lead to issues or overwritten links in modules.

 

I am not manually linking anything with this issue. I am trying to remove "Resume Brightness" and lock it at "Fixed Brightness." I was told by LeeG that this is what I had to do. I always thought the ISY would take care of that stuff, be he said I need to follow this procedure......(from previous post)

 

To set local on level to a fixed brightness level
1) Adjust SwitchLinc to desired brightness when controlled locally
2) Tap Set button
SwitchLinc will beep
3) Test by turning SwitchLinc off and then back on (via the paddle)
SwitchLinc will turn on to new local on-level
 
Problem is that in Step 2, if I Tap it, I get no sound. I have to hold it for 2 seconds of so and I do get a beep, but it doesn't remove the "resume bright" feature. If I turn off the light and turn it back on it does go to the setting I had, but as soon as I go to 100% brightness and turn it off, it goes right back to 100% again. It's still resuming brightness to last used level.
Posted

If you are manually setting the On-level, then at step 2 the tap must be really, really, really quick. The load will blink if you are doing it fast enough. If the load doesn't blink, then the tap was too slow.

Posted

I think it's a dud. I just pulled the set button to factory reset it and now it's all messed up, At one point the lights were flickering and now the lights on the device itself don't light up and whenever I press the paddle it makes the same noise as when you press the set button. The interesting thing is that the ISY99 has no problems controlling it. I can turn the lights on or off no problem. If I hold the paddle down I can get the lights to come one, but I suspect it's defective.

Posted

Looks like I didn't do the factory reset right. I still needed to push the button in until the tone stops. So I did a complete factory reset and it's working. I was also able to set it to "fixed brightness" and it works fine with the ISY.

 

Thanks for all your help guys.

Posted

Well it seems as though I am still having an issue with the problem I originally posted about.

 

The KeypadLink will periodically fail at turning off the power, but it never has an issue with turning it on. If you remember, I have the scene setup as follows....

 

SwitchLink (1) with the Load connected

SwitchLink (2) with no Load connected on same power supply as SwitchLink (1)

KeypadLink with no load and on the opposite leg of both SwitchLinks.

 

Whenever I run a Scene Test, it always is successful, so I am not sure what's going on here.

 

One other thing to add is that when I do tap the KeyPadLink to turn it off (when it doesn't work), the SwitchLink (2) also shows as Off so the communication is there. And while the KeypadLink was on (before turning off), the SwitchLink (2) shows as On. So again the communication is happening. However, the SwitchLink (1) remains On and I have to turn it off from that switch or I can flip SwithLink (2) to On which does nothing, but than flipping it Off would indeed turn it off.

 

An obvious communication issue, but the Legs are coupled.

Posted

What's the load that's connected to the non-responding SwitchLinc?

Posted

If the load isn't a incandescent light bulb its more than likely noise from what ever you're powering up. That can be from CFL, LED, magnetic ballast, etc.

Posted

The load is a few outlets and plugged into the outlets are neon lights. The problem doesn't happen at all with the SwitchLink (2) that is on the same breaker and leg. Only the KeyPadLink has an issue, but it's not always. I would say 1 out 4 times it will fail.

Posted (edited)

Is the SwitchLinc a relay (On/Off) or a dimmer? Unplug the all the loads. Does the SwitchLinc respond correctly to the Keypad when there is no load?

Edited by stusviews
Posted

Unplug the all the loads. Does the SwitchLinc respond correctly to the Keypad when there is no load?

Posted

Well I didn't need to unplug all of them. Based on your guess that one of the lights could be causing some sort of interference, I deducted that it would probably be the one closest to the switch. I unplugged and it seems to be working fine. I guess I can be 100% sure, but I toggled On/Off about 10 times without a failure, which is something that never happened before.

 

So the now the question is if there is any kind of solution or am I SOL? It's a rec room, and based on my layout, I really don't want to move that particular sign.

Posted

Well I didn't need to unplug all of them. Based on your guess that one of the lights could be causing some sort of interference, I deducted that it would probably be the one closest to the switch. I unplugged and it seems to be working fine. I guess I can be 100% sure, but I toggled On/Off about 10 times without a failure, which is something that never happened before.

 

So the now the question is if there is any kind of solution or am I SOL? It's a rec room, and based on my layout, I really don't want to move that particular sign.

 

You can install a filter linc and see if it solves the issue.

Posted

If all the neon lights are similar, then it's a good idea to filter them all.

Posted

Yes. I keep one or two around in case a signal sucker or stomper arrives, is moved, is discovered or something electronic deteriorates.

Posted

The unfiltered outlet on the front is also nice to have.

I put my PLM in the unfiltered outlet and my UPS with computing equipment on the filtered bottom outlet.

Posted

I just wish it was a little lower profile. These outlets are higher up on the wall to accommodate neon signs so that the cord doesn't have to go down to the normal height for outlets.

Posted

I just wish it was a little lower profile. These outlets are higher up on the wall to accommodate neon signs so that the cord doesn't have to go down to the normal height for outlets.

There are a few wired in filters from X10 but they are massive and may not fit in a shallow j box.

 

But that is also another alternative. If you look for some X10 filtering devices they equally work well for Insteon.

 

Try to either find the smallest unit or one that can be installed inside the JBOX.

 

 

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