416to305 Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 Hey everyone, I'd like to be able to control a standard bathroom fan when the door closes etc. It's a normal bathroom fan with a wall switch that is on or off. There's no speeds or anything. Can I use a SwitchLinc dinmer? Or does it have to be a switch? I hate how loud the switches are, sounds ghetto and old to me so if I have to use a switch then I won't unless there's z wave ones that don't make the loud click. I'm assuming though a dimmer would be bad for a fan, or what exactly would happen? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
paulbates Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Lee- Switchlinc dimmers are only for the lighting loads specified in their docs. No switchlinc dimmers are designed for a motorized load and it wouldn't be healthy for either device. I don't anything about zwave, but I believe this is an electrical/electronic limitation that will transcend which powerline switching technology is used. Paul
Teken Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Lee- Switchlinc dimmers are only for the lighting loads specified in their docs. No switchlinc dimmers are designed for a motorized load and it wouldn't be healthy for either device. I don't anything about zwave, but I believe this is an electrical/electronic limitation that will transcend which powerline switching technology is used. Paul Correct, you must use s relay switch as a dinner will not present full voltage to the fan which will then damage it in the long run. In an extreme condition the fan can over heat and cause a fire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
EricK Posted January 1, 2015 Posted January 1, 2015 I don't mind the sound of the relay at all. Regular decora switches also make a clicking sound, not as loud, when they are switched. I put leviton timers switches in our wc's, which make a clicking sound. Then again the beep of the oven timer drives me nuts.
416to305 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Posted January 2, 2015 I don't mind the click it's more I just find it sounds too mechanical, like it's just a $20 cheap Lutron motion switch vs a much nicer switch as part of an automation system. Thanks everyone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Xathros Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 You could use a Switchlinc Dimmer in the box without the load line connected then add a micro relay module in the fan housing and link the two. That might move the click to a location where it won't be heard. -Xathros I don't mind the click it's more I just find it sounds too mechanical, like it's just a $20 cheap Lutron motion switch vs a much nicer switch as part of an automation system. Thanks everyone!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
416to305 Posted January 2, 2015 Author Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks, it's definitely not that big of a deal breaker, I just wanted to find out for sure first before buying anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
johnnyt Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 Correct, you must use s relay switch as a dinner will not present full voltage to the fan which will then damage it in the long run. In an extreme condition the fan can over heat and cause a fire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Wow, I didn't know that. Have been running a Panasonic bathroom fan on a KPL dimmer for over 3 years. In part because it's what I had, in part because it's more fan then I need (150CFM) and in part because by running it at 80 % it's quieter (for a bedroom ensuite). Does it matter what brand of fan you have, eg high end vs builder's special? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
stusviews Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 Some motors can run on a dimmer. Ironically, lower cost motors are more likely to function on a dimmer. f it works, then, in the long run, then life of the motor will probably be diminished.
Teken Posted January 2, 2015 Posted January 2, 2015 It does depend on the electronics and how dumb the fan is. If you try to use a dimmer on a VFD type motor some interesting things will happen. You won't see very many smart bathroom fans in a home very often outside of those which have a built in humidity / timer function. In a commercial environment where money isn't an issue I have seen two businesses like IKEA / Costco use smart fans which are digitally controlled and managed by a HVAC management system. These can not use a dimmer regardless if it's a triac / thrysistor. If a device actually reduces the line voltage which many don't this is where current increases thus causing a burn up / fire condition. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
johnnyt Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 What if one runs the fan at 100%? Other than during the ramp up (set to 0.1 sec) is there still a problem with using a dimmer if it isn't giving signs of any problems? I know I did have problems trying to run CFL bulbs through a newer kpl dimmer once. It would beep and refuse to light up the load. But that's not the case here. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Teken Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 At 100% it's still not at full output. If your fan has been running fine for three years don't worry about it. Note besides electrically being unsafe it's against code. This is like putting a dimmer on a outlet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
stusviews Posted January 3, 2015 Posted January 3, 2015 Insteon dimmers use TRIACs. TRIACs work by clipping the alternating current (AC) sine wave. That clipping occurs even at 100%.
416to305 Posted January 3, 2015 Author Posted January 3, 2015 I mostly would need to buy a new switch anyway then if not using a dimmer as I had some extra dimmers around, but definitely not worth the $80+ for a hidden door sensor and new wall switch just to have the fan come on when the door closes, really more of a novelty than any practicality as everyone always turns the fan on automatically it seems. Actually they are almost never off, the one in the ensuite stays on for white noise even so will probably leave it for now. Thanks!
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