jwarner964 Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Hi all I have a program that turns on 3 kitchen lights when 1 switch is fast on and the same lights shut off with a fast off, I got a new LG. fridge now it doesn't work all the time . It worked great before the new fridge, anyone out there have that happen Thanks, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 http://www.smarthome.com/filterlinc-10-amp-plug-in-noise-filter.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oberkc Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 I have suspected my LG fridge as a contributor to comms problems, but not enough to actually filter it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 An easy test is to (temporarily) unplug the refrigerator to see if communications improves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwarner964 Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Thanks for the info I'll give that a try When the compressor shuts off it works fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 That's an indication that a filter is required. Here's another filter I've used successfully: http://www.smarthome.com/act-af120-15-amp-plug-in-noise-filter.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwarner964 Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Thanks stu Is there anything out there smaller, the outlet is behind the fridge and the filterlincs would make the fridge stick out, waf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Most refrigerators are not against the wall. The Insteon FilterLinc is only 1 1/2" deep. Most refrigerators have even more room at the bottom, so you can use a short extension cord (about 4') with a right angle plug if needed. extension cord-->(bottom of refrigerator/filter)--->refrigerator plug While I agree that the WAF is of prime consideration, so is dependable automation. So, I use bribery. Something that will provide her with more convenience.Dinner out works, too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Just out of curiosity isn't this fridge on a dedicated circuit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 The filter has to be heavy enough for the compressors start up and running currents. Smaller filters may not have the rating for such currents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwarner964 Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Just out of curiosity isn't this fridge on a dedicated circuit? No, 20A-kitchen app. Circuit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 No, 20A-kitchen app. Circuit That's interesting to see and hear which isn't very common in newer homes. Keep us all in the loop as to how you get on and what solution you ultimately decide upon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ELA Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 I also encountered issues with my LG fridge. I have quantified it in the signal absorption listings on the site. Here is what I was going to install: http://www.elavenue.com/images/test_data/xpf%20Filter%20in%206%20x%206in%20%20box.jpg I was going to have to modify the wall behind to accomodate it and it simply was not worth it. When I first bought that large filter I identified a cold solder joint on the board. I would not want a refridgerator running through a cold solder joint. I ended up using a dual band device to 'bridge" the power line signal absorption with RF comms. My wife has since also added a Romba charger on that same circuit so that was a good call in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwarner964 Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 That's interesting to see and hear which isn't very common in newer homes. Keep us all in the loop as to how you get on and what solution you ultimately decide upon.iI have a phase coupler and I'm going to install separate circuits for my Plm and isy and move closer to my panel, per your recommendation , haven't had time lately. Had that planned before this happened. Now the Plm and isy are on the same circuit as my desk top , I'll see if that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teken Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 i I have a phase coupler and I'm going to install separate circuits for my Plm and isy and move closer to my panel, per your recommendation , haven't had time lately. Had that planned before this happened. Now the Plm and isy are on the same circuit as my desk top , I'll see if that helps Your desktop PC must be filtered by a Smartlabs FilterLinc. Any electronic device can be a noise maker / signal sucker to the Insteon signal. I would suggest you filter anything that is on the PLM circuit . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian H Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 ELA; Has done some signal tests and posted them on his web site. http://www.elavenue.com/insteon_test_data.html Notice things like computer power supplies and UPS units are notorious for absorbing Insteon power line signals. I have one of the APC UPS units in his tests. I doubt my PLM would be working with out a Filterlinc on the UPS with my PLM in the unfiltered pass through AC outlet on the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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