Door Locking Integration with ISY994i

[dbroere]

It's unfortunate that the industry doesn't seem to have INSTEON deadbolt devices.  My goal is to bring integrated house locking to a large INSTEON electrical control system, presently using an ISY994i.  Door locking will include:

Entry Door Deadbolts

Sliding Glass Doors (which may be the big deal breaker)

and Overhead Doors ( where I'm planning on using the existing INSTEON solution)

 

Here's my questions: 

 

(1) I've tried Kevo but don't think there's a communications integration path to the ISY994i for BlueTooth.  Is that true or are there BlueTooth integration methods I've missed?

 

(2) From what I see, it looks like Z-Wave may be the only way to do door locking.  What are the ways that I can enable the ISY994i to do Z-wave communications with a SmartThings Hub?

 

(3) If I need to convert to an ISY994iZw, is there a way the ISY994i be converted, rather than do a total box replacement?

 

 

 

[oberkc]

2) No...there is the morninglinc module (insteon) which communicates with the morning industries lock set.  Furthermore, one does not need a SmartTHings Hub to do z-wave locks.

 

3).  There is no "conversion" necessary.  One can ADD z-wave capability while retaining the core insteon support.  No box replacement necessary...add the z-wave module, available from universal devices.

 

BTW, I have the z-wave module and use schlage z-wave locks.

[MWareman]

Or use any number of electromagnetic and electromechanical locks and an iolinc. Personally, I wouldn't trust door security to Insteon though and would rather hardwire the locks to my Elk.

[stusviews]

(2) Morning Industry (MI) locks are Insteon controllable using a 2862-222 lock controller.

 

(3) You can add the Z-Wave dongle to your existing ISY-994i.

[sagig]

One warning regarding the MornincLinc adapter - although it works well, it is a one way communication device - i.e you can control it through the Insteon hub, ISY etc. but it won't provide a real status of the lock if it is locked or unlocked manually or with the remotes that are supplied with them. So when a door is unlocked with the remote or manually, ISY still shows that the door is locked and you can't use door lock logic in your programs etc.

I believe z-wave devices are bi directional and may be a better solution for door locking.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MWareman]

One warning regarding the MornincLinc adapter - although it works well, it is a one way communication device - i.e you can control it through the Insteon hub, ISY etc. but it won't provide a real status of the lock if it is locked or unlocked manually or with the remotes that are supplied with them. So when a door is unlocked with the remote or manually, ISY still shows that the door is locked and you can't use door lock logic in your programs etc.

I believe z-wave devices are bi directional and may be a better solution for door locking.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is why I went zwave.

 

Of course you could also add a switch in the lock mortice to detect if the locking bolt is fully extended to provide feedback, but this should be done even with zwave locks if you want fully reliable locked/unlocked feedback.

 

I have had some times when the zwave lock reported secure but the bolt was not fully deployed, so I'm now trying to figure how to wire a sensor to detect this condition.

[fryfrog]

One warning regarding the MornincLinc adapter - although it works well, it is a one way communication device - i.e you can control it through the Insteon hub, ISY etc. but it won't provide a real status of the lock if it is locked or unlocked manually or with the remotes that are supplied with them. So when a door is unlocked with the remote or manually, ISY still shows that the door is locked and you can't use door lock logic in your programs etc.

I believe z-wave devices are bi directional and may be a better solution for door locking.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

*Some* zwave locks are like that, some aren't. You have to be really careful with what you get, you almost certainly want one that can remotely throw and unthrow the bolt (some just *allow* the bolt to be thrown or unthrown locally) and reports local lock and unlock (some don't!) and maybe reports use of keypad vs. key.

[giesen]

I have had some times when the zwave lock reported secure but the bolt was not fully deployed, so I'm now trying to figure how to wire a sensor to detect this condition.

 

Having just done this, I can tell you in my house it was particularly fun. Drilled a hole through where the bolt extends using a 5/16" brad point drill bit to drill about an inch (to leave room for the sensor), and then a 1/4" long drill bit to drill the rest of the way through both studs (for the wires), and I used a Flair VIP70 3/8" recessed plunger switch, and had to cut two holes in my drywall (one up by the bolt, and one near the floor) to be able to feed the wire through and solder up the sensor. You may be able to get away with one hole near the bolt, I couldn't because I have cinder block and the drywall is mounted on strapping (no 2x4's) so I only have about an inch of wall cavity to drill up from underneath and feed.

 

Since I had made the holes always, I took advantage and installed a doorbell at the same time (at roughly the same height as the deadbolt - my house is 60 years old and has never had one), and wired into an ELK 930 relay. Also took advantage of the second hole (near the floor) to install a Flair VIP94-2 3/8" recessed magnetic contact, using the same technique.

[stusviews]

The weakest point for a deadbolt is the door buck where the striker plate is installed. That's why most deadbolts come with extra long screws for the striker plate and often include a solid insert. Drilling any hole in the door buck renders that specific point especially weak. That's also why door sensors are installed some distance from the striker.

[giesen]

If someone wants in my house, they will break the glass in the door or throw a brick through a window. Most of the time deadbolts only keep out the mischievous, not the determined. So the convenience of knowing the deadbolt is locked is worth the tradeoff

[Teken]

If someone wants in my house, they will break the glass in the door or throw a brick through a window. Most of the time deadbolts only keep out the mischievous, not the determined. So the convenience of knowing the deadbolt is locked is worth the tradeoff

 

This is true life is definitely about balance and trade offs. 

 

As Stu noted compromising the area behind the strike plate does have limitations. Keep in mind you can always supplement this area with 3rd party products to not only bolster the impact zone but also reduce its weakness.

 

In all cases all doors should be complimented with a out swinging security gate / storm door. This provides cheap ventilation during the summer / spring. But also bolsters the amount of time it takes to penetrate the door assembly.

 

As stated many times if a properly installed, anchored, and built out swinging door is deployed it will take any where from 100 - 300% more effort to breach said door.

 

Almost anyone can kick down a common door . . .

 

Almost 90% of the population will have a very hard time trying to do the very same by pulling a door simple physics.

[ScottAvery]

You lock your storm door?  Or you are specifically talking about a security door?

[Teken]

You lock your storm door?  Or you are specifically talking about a security door?

 

Technically, its a security gated door assembly that doubles as a storm door. Typical security gates are wrought iron and have no glass or impact medium in place of glass so air travels freely.

 

My exterior door uses both wrought iron and 1/2" UV rated polycorbonate slats and also has the typical screening to allow ventilation during the spring, fall, summer months.

 

And yes the front security door is locked pretty much 24-7-365 as we don't use this door to enter the home. We all enter through the attached garage which requires two form authentication via swipe card readers. This door is secured using a mag lock system set for fail safe opposed to fail secure due to the cUL fire rating I must adhere to.

 

Meaning if there is a loss of POCO power this door will not remain energized during a fire condition. Because the entire property is powered by four independent UPS power systems. One being a NG generator, off grid solar battery pack, 120-240 APC Symetra Pure Sine Wave UPS, and last but not least the security alarm system which powers the mag lock independent of the three power sources should any of the three be compromised or be in a fault condition.

[moxman]

does haven lock  work with isy?

 

might be something 

 

kind regards

Mike 

[stusviews]

The Haven Lock is Bluetooth. The ISY does not have Bluetooth capability. I also noticed that this question is unanswered: In case of an emergency, how will I exit my home?

 

It's no clear if there's an IP address (WiFi).

[moxman]

Speaking on the integrity of the door for the dead bolt, I took my trim off the front and back of the door, i then installed a 6 x 2 " 1/8 " steel on both sides, then drywall, re-install trim and paint, i know have a door that if you try to kick, you will get tired and throw a brick through my window to get in

 

(i drilled 8 security screws from local hardware store on both  pieces of metal into the door frame and 2x4)

steel used is high carbon reinforced billet, just incase someone ask, they don't sell billet in that size, you have to buy and use a plasma cutter (what i used) or cut it with what ever you have to cut it with or pay someone to cut.