Tungsten Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 I have a dimmer switch with a broken ground wire, what's the best way to fix? Should I just solder it to the remaining short piece of wire? Or maybe to the chassis itself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xathros Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 I had that happen on one of mine. I ended up looping it around the bottom screw between the head and the aluminum frame then tightened the screw. -Xathros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerlands Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 You could solder it to either the stub or the chassis. Jon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 The method suggested by Xathros is the one electricians use when the installed device doesn't have or is missing the ground wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 I'm assuming the ground wire doesn't have anything to do with the actual insteon communication across the power lines, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xathros Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 I'm assuming the ground wire doesn't have anything to do with the actual insteon communication across the power lines, correct? Correct. Just a safety ground in case anything HOT on the inside comes in contact with the frame. -Xathros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 20, 2015 Author Share Posted October 20, 2015 Is it just the neutral line that handles communication? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerlands Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 The neutral line does not handle communication but acts to complete the circuit. The hot (black) lead carries the powerline signals. see..WHITEPAPER: The Details - Insteon as far as I know Jon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Actually both line and neutral are required and can be reversed. If you then connect the load between the red (load) wire and line--instead of between the red (load) wire and neutral--everything will function as it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryllix Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Open the unit up and solder in a new ground wire or release the stub and crimp on a butt-splice connector and extend the wire. Do not solder a ground wire unless the crimp is made first. Solder can evaporate and blow connections apart during bad faults. Solder is a poor conductor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusviews Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 There's no need to use the ground wire attached (or not attached) to the device. Simply wrap the ground wire from the Romex or other cable around the screw that secures the device as any electrician would do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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