wwat Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 I've just had a new garage door/motor installed and have to connect the Insteon controller/keypadlinc to the new door motor. I've forgotten how to connect the wires from the magnetic switch and the I/O Linc to the motor and the links to the documents seem to be broken on the ISY Wiki. I recall there being some issue as to whether to connect the green or red wire from the magnetic switch. Should it be NO or NC and what is the difference. Unfortunately I can't find any of the step by step document that use to be searchable on this forum. Any help appreciates. Thanks. Link to comment
stusviews Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Do you have the same wall switch? Which specific motor and wall switch do you have? NO means normally open (i.e., no influence from the magnet) and NC means normally closed. Which you use depends on whether you prefer the responded to be lit when the door is open or closed. In any case, instructions are in the on-line Owner's Manual. Link to comment
wwat Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 It's a different garage door opener and wall switch, everything is new. The only original components are the Keypadlinc and Insteon garage door kit. The brand of the opener is Liftmaster elite 8500 sidemount. If you can point me to the online instructions that would be very helpful and if I have any more questions I'll post again here. Thanks. Link to comment
MWareman Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 The Lifemaster Elite 8500 (aka Chamberlain) is a MyQ device with Security+ 2.0. If you have the smart button you cannot wire the IOLinc outputs in the same way. There are no formal instructions for using this device with the IOLinc - its regarded by Smarthome as incompatible. I purchased an additional (wireless) button, opened it up and connected the output (of my Elk, but the IOLinc is the same) to the solder pads on the button. This works flawlessly. An alternative is to use the Python library elsewhere on the forum for MyQ network control, but this will require you to have the MyQ network interface, and will additionally depend on an Internet connection to function. Link to comment
wwat Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 I purchased an additional (wireless) button, opened it up and connected the output (of my Elk, but the IOLinc is the same) to the solder pads on the button. This works flawlessly. Actually I have a spare remote so this is probably the way to go. Prior to this change I used a single KPL button to operate the door with the light indicating that the door was open. Could I still use it in the same way? Link to comment
MWareman Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Actually I have a spare remote so this is probably the way to go. Prior to this change I used a single KPL button to operate the door with the light indicating that the door was open. Could I still use it in the same way?I believe so, yes. If the output of the IOLinc is driving the remote then the programming is identical. Link to comment
stusviews Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 If you can point me to the online instructions that would be very helpful and if I have any more questions I'll post again here. On-line manuals/instructions for all shipping Insteon devices can be found from the sales page for that device Soldering instructions are not included Link to comment
Brian H Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 The instruction on the support page will not show the older magnetic switch with both the Red and Green {NC or NO}. The present kit does not have the same switch in it. I looked myself for the older manual, for a friend and did not find it. Link to comment
oberkc Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 I have a copy of the old instructions. Unfortunately, they say nothing of the purpose of the red, green or black wires. The instructions are limited to a picture showing black goes to Sense and green goes to GND. Fortunately, it is easy enough to figure out. Polarity does not matter so there are only three combinations to check. Put any two wires in the IOLinc Sense and GND terminals and observe the response as the door opens and closes. NC will be the wire combination that results in green LED ON when away from the magnet and OFF when close to the magnet. Link to comment
Teken Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 I am a visual learner so here are some old photo's of my jack shaft install. Please note my system was the older model before the whole My Q ever existed. I wired the I/O Linc directly to the main GDO in parallel and works like a champ. This avoided the whole idea of buying another remote to be sacrificed and soldered on to. Sorry the picture isn't the best as it was taken during a power outage in my area and was running on emergency back up lighting which is 25 feet away. NOTE: In the picture you can see I used the N.O. sensor wire. You will need to decide which method works for you in your own environment. For me it made sense that the light on the I/O Linc would light up once the door was open and off when the door was closed. Comes down to preference and if it makes sense to you to have it the reverse . . . Link to comment
wwat Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks for these replies. I'm away at the moment but will get back to it on my return. Link to comment
wwat Posted December 19, 2015 Author Share Posted December 19, 2015 Okay its working the way it use to work. I wired it directly into the garage door motor unit as per Teken's example above and everything appears to function. The only thing that is working differently to what Teken described is that the light is ON when the door is closed and OFF when the door is open. It makes sense to have it work the other way, for the light to be ON when the door is open etc. I'm not sure what I've done differently. I did use the green wire from the magnetic switch, should I have used the red one? Thanks. Link to comment
paulbates Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Okay its working the way it use to work. I wired it directly into the garage door motor unit as per Teken's example above and everything appears to function. The only thing that is working differently to what Teken described is that the light is ON when the door is closed and OFF when the door is open. It makes sense to have it work the other way, for the light to be ON when the door is open etc. I'm not sure what I've done differently. I did use the green wire from the magnetic switch, should I have used the red one? Thanks. Give that a shot. My door sensor can support either normally opened or normally closed via 2 different terminals.. What you are describing is the symptom for that being reversed. Link to comment
LeeG Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Yes, use the the Red wire. Link to comment
Teken Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Okay its working the way it use to work. I wired it directly into the garage door motor unit as per Teken's example above and everything appears to function. The only thing that is working differently to what Teken described is that the light is ON when the door is closed and OFF when the door is open. It makes sense to have it work the other way, for the light to be ON when the door is open etc. I'm not sure what I've done differently. I did use the green wire from the magnetic switch, should I have used the red one? Thanks. Glad it all worked out and sorry for the confusion on the sensor wiring. These were really old pictures taken as a means to trouble shoot and recall what position the cables were in case I needed to redo things etc. As you can tell it comes in handy when helping out others. I know its easy to say and read written text over the Interwebs . . . But, sometimes having some visual aids just makes the job easier for everyone. Merry X-MAS . . . Link to comment
wwat Posted December 19, 2015 Author Share Posted December 19, 2015 Changing the wire from green to red fixed that, now the light on the IO Linc is ON when the door is open etc. After changing the wires from green to red the other change I had to make was to uncheck 'TriggerReverse' in the relay options box in ISY. As a result of changing the wires around the light on the KPL was reversed so I had to change that option to correct the problem. Teken, thanks again for the visuals, it did make all the difference. Some of us think in different ways Appreciate all the responses. Merry Christmas folks... Link to comment
KHouse Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Just wanted to add input here that I had two new Liftmaster 8500 units installed, and used my old I/O Lincs (which were soldered to a spare remote), wired directly into the 8500 motors, and it works great. I do have the non-LCD wall button/controller for the 8500's. When I first researched this after already buying the 8500's, I read a whole lot about how these are not compatible with the I/O Linc...but I guess it's the wall mount controller that dictates if these will work or not. With the normal non-LCD controller everything works nice just as it should. Thanks for all the help in this thread. Link to comment
MWareman Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Yes - it's the LCD controller that makes the system incompatible with iolincs. Link to comment
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