Killzone1023 Posted April 20, 2016 Posted April 20, 2016 I'm looking to be able to Open and close this linear actuator http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=281457101940I would like to run off a110v outlet and use converter to turn into 9v. I've tried wrapping my head around this but keep coming up stumped. Rather new to Insteon and home automation. My goal is to be able to control this while I'm not home over wifi. So greatly appreciated if anyone can help
jerlands Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 You should be able to do this using an IOLinc and a 12v DC power supply. Output Relay Capacity:5A @ 30 Volts (AC or DC) Jon...
Killzone1023 Posted April 21, 2016 Author Posted April 21, 2016 You should be able to do this using an IOLinc and a 12v DC power supply. Output Relay Capacity:5A @ 30 Volts (AC or DC) Jon...
stusviews Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 The actuator needs to move in both directions, out and in. To do so requires a double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) switch wired so that the polarity of the DC source is reversed for each direction, exactly like a 4-way switch operates. The I/O Linc has a single-pole, double-throw switch (SPDT). You would need two I/O Lincs to accomplish what you want.
Killzone1023 Posted April 21, 2016 Author Posted April 21, 2016 Would you be able to explain how to wire everything correctly? I've thought of using this but couldn't figure out the proper wiring so I could use it
Killzone1023 Posted April 21, 2016 Author Posted April 21, 2016 I don't. What I was planing on doing was installing a dog door on my door and using a u channel, piece of steel and this actuator to make a "lock" so to speak so my dog couldn't get out only when I let her. I've thought of buying an electronic lock with rfid but can't figure out how to send over Insteon so scrapped it. Did read someone used alliance module for power on door. But I was concerned door would lose programming of transponder on her collar and not work at all. Driving myself nuts trying to get this done. Lol
stusviews Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Connect positive (+) from the source to NO I/O Linc A and to NC on I/O Linc B. Connect negative (-) from the source to NC I/O Linc A and to NO on I/O Linc B. Connect one wire from the actuator to the common (COM) on I/O Linc A and the other wire from the actuator to the common (COM) on I/O Linc B. The direction of the actuator is determined by which wire is connected to A or B. Be sure to test that the limit switches work. Both I/O Lincs On is one direction, both Off is the other. You can, optionally, swap the direction by swapping which actuator wire connects to A or B. Because it's important for the I/O Lincs to operate in unison, link them using a scene. You can use a program to control the scene.
stusviews Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 I don't. What I was planing on doing was installing a dog door on my door and using a u channel, piece of steel and this actuator to make a "lock" so to speak so my dog couldn't get out only when I let her. I've thought of buying an electronic lock with rfid but can't figure out how to send over Insteon so scrapped it. Did read someone used alliance module for power on door. But I was concerned door would lose programming of transponder on her collar and not work at all. Driving myself nuts trying to get this done. Lol Depending on the size of you dog, a chicken coop door may be ideal.
larryllix Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 One IOLinc would work fine as this activator has limit switches built in. It claims to use 12v at 2.5 amperes and the IOLinc is rated at 5 amperes 30v. For the reversal the +/-12vdc could be wired to the IOLinc NC and NO terminals. The IOLInc com terminal could be wired to the activator. The other wire from the activator could be wired to two 5 ampere diodes at the split point with the anode end of one diode to the +12vdc and the cathode end of the other diode to the -12vdc supply. This would take some soldering and tape, or teminal blocks and don't forget to use a shortproof power supply or a fuse, sized appropriately. @Stu...think full wave bridge with usual diodes, for one side, and contacts for the other side.
KeviNH Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Connect positive (+) from the source to NO I/O Linc A and to NC on I/O Linc B. Connect negative (-) from the source to NC I/O Linc A and to NO on I/O Linc B. Connect one wire from the actuator to the common (COM) on I/O Linc A and the other wire from the actuator to the common (COM) on I/O Linc B. With this design, what happens to the power supply if both IO Linc outputs are ON at the same time? Why go with two I/O Lincs instead of the Insteon Low Voltage Micro Remote Control Module # 2444-222?
stusviews Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 With this design, what happens to the power supply if both IO Linc outputs are ON at the same time? Why go with two I/O Lincs instead of the Insteon Low Voltage Micro Remote Control Module # 2444-222? The goal is to have both I/O Lincs On concurrently (one direction) or Off concurrently (opposite direction). If either I/O Linc is On while the other is Off, then no voltage would be applied to the actuator (both actuator wires would be connected to only + or only -). The low voltage name for the 2444 Micro Module is a misnomer. The term is being used as opposed to high voltage distribution transformers. Electricians often refer to line voltage as low voltage devices. All Micro Modules control line voltage (110/120 and/or 220/240 volts). The Open/Close modules is meant for reversible line voltage motors often used for movie screens, shutters and drapes. Also, they're not DPDT, they're SPDT, so two would still be required--if they were made to switch low voltage (≤30), which they are not. One IOLinc would work fine as this activator has limit switches built in. It claims to use 12v at 2.5 amperes and the IOLinc is rated at 5 amperes 30v. For the reversal the +/-12vdc could be wired to the IOLinc NC and NO terminals. The IOLInc com terminal could be wired to the activator. The other wire from the activator could be wired to two 5 ampere diodes at the split point with the anode end of one diode to the +12vdc and the cathode end of the other diode to the -12vdc supply. This would take some soldering and tape, or teminal blocks and don't forget to use a shortproof power supply or a fuse, sized appropriately. @Stu...think full wave bridge with usual diodes, for one side, and contacts for the other side. There's no doubt electronic circuitry can take the place of not only one, but both I/O Lincs. My reply was predicated on the basis that the OP was not seeking a solution that required a circuit board, electronic components, various pieces of hardware (e.g., screws, wire, solder, a drill, etc.) and soldering skills, too
larryllix Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 <snipped> There's no doubt electronic circuitry can take the place of not only one, but both I/O Lincs. My reply was predicated on the basis that the OP was not seeking a solution that required a circuit board, electronic components, various pieces of hardware (e.g., screws, wire, solder, a drill, etc.) and soldering skills, too Yeah sure butut I figured he would need to do a fair bit of circuitry even with the 2 x IOLincs. Those terminals are pretty small and two wires won't go in. I hat would take a drawing first.
stusviews Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Yeah sure butut I figured he would need to do a fair bit of circuitry even with the 2 x IOLincs. Those terminals are pretty small and two wires won't go in. I hat would take a drawing first. A drawing, if you mean an illustration of the wiring won't help inserting two wires if they won't fit. But drawing the wires as a metal worker would, that is, elongating and thinning the wires, would work
larryllix Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 A drawing, if you mean an illustration of the wiring won't help inserting two wires if they won't fit. But drawing the wires as a metal worker would, that is, elongating and thinning the wires, would work Just to illustrate further, it would have to be a drawing of a wiring diagram. Just to figure out which wires have to be chiselled.
jerlands Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 There is no easy solution I've found to automating reversal of 12v DC motor. Even with 2 IOLincs and two DPDT relays there isn't any safety feature to prevent both relays from energizing. The closest control I've found is an Arduino board but I think too complicated. Jon...
stusviews Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Using two I/O Lincs does nor require any additional relays. Both I/O Lincs turned On moves the actuator in one direction, both I/O Lincs Off is the other direction. If the I/O Lincs get out of sync (i.e., one On and the other Off), then nothing happens because only one actuator wire will be connected to anything. Hmm, that can be used to stop the actuator at any position
larryllix Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Using two I/O Lincs does nor require any additional relays. Both I/O Lincs turned On moves the actuator in one direction, both I/O Lincs Off is the other direction. If the I/O Lincs get out of sync (i.e., one On and the other Off), then nothing happens because only one actuator wire will be connected to anything. Hmm, that can be used to stop the actuator at any position That is what some would call "dynamic braking" Some of our control circuits used that on 5hp motors, and beside burning the contacts off on the contactor, the motor would come to screaming halt, and almost jump right off the mounts, then coast very slowly to a stop once the counter, magnetic induction ceased. I had a mitre saw that did that, and the same sequence happened and yup, the contacts burned off just after the warranty expired. Makes me wonder if a diode bridge with some leads on it would work for Killzone2^10-1 to use only one IOLinc and alleviate some soldering. I can't think of diode arrays with leads though and even #18 stranded would have trouble with two in an IOLinc hole.
jerlands Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Using two I/O Lincs does nor require any additional relays. Both I/O Lincs turned On moves the actuator in one direction, both I/O Lincs Off is the other direction. If the I/O Lincs get out of sync (i.e., one On and the other Off), then nothing happens because only one actuator wire will be connected to anything. Hmm, that can be used to stop the actuator at any position A picture is worth a thousand words I can't see this? Jon...
stusviews Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Disconnecting power from a motor, as happens when one I/O Link is On and the other is Off, is anything but "dynamic breaking." Dynamic breaking requires power on.
larryllix Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 Dynamic braking can of a few different types. Some require power and some don't. I worked on units that didn't produce enough residual magnetic induction and required a separate DC energy source that was dumped into the motor winding to create a magnetic pole locking field. This may also be done to get a better precision of control to make a motor stop in the exact position desired. I also worked on units that didn't require any outside energy source, (like mitre saws) and this was done by shorting winding(s) into a short (on the saw), or better yet, into a resistive load that could absorb the energy and convert it into heat. These ones usually had a slight motor coast after the initial "magnetic pole lockup". When you turn the two IOLinc contacts so that they are closed, you will have just shorted out the motor winding causing some dynamic braking effect. When you have one IOLinc contact open to one end of the activator this effect cannot happen and the motor is dependant on friction to coast to a stop. Dependant on the coast and residual voltage generation of the activator motor circuitry. you may also have an IOLinc contact burning situation due to the 30v rating of the IOLinc contacts where the IOLinc may last ....one operation with no suppression components. hmmmmm... definitely some electronic experience required or you may be lucky and it will just work but some connection facilities will be required. Not many specs on these activators but they sure give me some ideas for other projects.
jerlands Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 I'm brain blocked and can't see how to do this with two IOLincs? Jon...
jerlands Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 IO Linc.jpg Isn't this essentially the same as supplying + and - only to the NC circuit (which would power the actuator when IOLinc is off?) I'm missing something here Edit: meant to say.. the same effect as except for the NO circuit Jon...
jerlands Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 My illustration doesn't work because of this. Jon...
jerlands Posted April 21, 2016 Posted April 21, 2016 The only way I see using IOLinc is with two DPDT relays Jon...
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