Replacing a Powerlinc Modem

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

My powerlinc modem started dropping programs awhile back and finally quit altogether.  I upgraded my software in my ISY to the latest version (4.4.6?) and proceeded to replace the modem with a spare.  I disconnected the ISY from power.  I disconnected the powerlinc from the ISY.  I unplugged the modem from power.  I replaced the modem by the revers process - power to the modem, connect modem to ISY and power up the ISY.  I turned off writing updates to battery powered devices.  Then I clicked "Restore Modem (PLM).  That was Saturday.  It is still linking as I type this.  I have a big system but it is not huge (64 Switchlincs, 8 6-button KPLs, 3 thermostats, 9 icons (yes, I still have some icons), 3 togglelincs and 21 scenes.  I'm at a loss.  Any suggestions?

[Teken]

My powerlinc modem started dropping programs awhile back and finally quit altogether.  I upgraded my software in my ISY to the latest version (4.4.6?) and proceeded to replace the modem with a spare.  I disconnected the ISY from power.  I disconnected the powerlinc from the ISY.  I unplugged the modem from power.  I replaced the modem by the revers process - power to the modem, connect modem to ISY and power up the ISY.  I turned off writing updates to battery powered devices.  Then I clicked "Restore Modem (PLM).  That was Saturday.  It is still linking as I type this.  I have a big system but it is not huge (64 Switchlincs, 8 6-button KPLs, 3 thermostats, 9 icons (yes, I still have some icons), 3 togglelincs and 21 scenes.  I'm at a loss.  Any suggestions?

 

You need to start over its locked up . . .

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

Thanks, Teken.  Started over.  Pulled power from the ISY. Disconnected PLM from ISY.  Disconnected PLM from power.  Reversed procedure.  ISY queried system for 5 minutes and stopped.  Red flag down in lower left hand corner of admin console.  All buttons across the top of admin console (Expand All, Collapse all.....) are greyed out.  Going to repeat procedure again but will leave ISY without power for a longer period of time.  Any other suggestions?

[Teken]

Thanks, Teken.  Started over.  Pulled power from the ISY. Disconnected PLM from ISY.  Disconnected PLM from power.  Reversed procedure.  ISY queried system for 5 minutes and stopped.  Red flag down in lower left hand corner of admin console.  All buttons across the top of admin console (Expand All, Collapse all.....) are greyed out.  Going to repeat procedure again but will leave ISY without power for a longer period of time.  Any other suggestions?

 

1. Keep in mind all you need to do is unplug the PLM.

2. Remove power from the ISY no need to remove any cords leading to the PLM.

3. Wait about 10-30 seconds and plug the PLM back into the electrical outlet.

4. Apply power to the ISY Series Controller and let it settle down.

5. Log back into the Admin Console and disable battery writes if you have a pro.

6. Perform the restore modem procedure and get a cold one and sit back and wait.

 

7. Assuming the restore modem is completed you will need to check how many links are in the system.

8. If all is well in step seven you can start the write updates to the battery devices one at a time.

 

9. If that goes well your next step is to verify that the Admin Console reflects the change of state when you manually operate any switches in your home. You will need to do the reverse using the Admin Console to ensure the controller has command and control of the related hardware in the home.

 

10. Keep in mind you will need to do a restore device after all of the steps above are done. This will take a considerable amount of time so plan this out when you have plenty of time to waste.

 

11. Last but not least assuming all of the above is done and completes as expected do a complete system back up and place several copies on a thumb drive, cloud storage, and other computers for later use.

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

Started over. Admin console still messed up.  Switched to the correct network (Have 2 wifi networks in the house.  Can only access admin console through one (would have to buy static IP address from my ISP. Can't access it away from home either) It is now running Restore PLM.  How long should this take?

[Teken]

Started over. Admin console still messed up.  Switched to the correct network (Have 2 wifi networks in the house.  Can only access admin console through one (would have to buy static IP address from my ISP. Can't access it away from home either) It is now running Restore PLM.  How long should this take?

 

Please tell me you're doing this locally and not remotely?!?!

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

Thanks again Teken.  Have some more work to do after the PLM is replaced and working.  Has Smarthome fixed the 1 - 1.5 yrs MTBF on the PLM yet?

[stusviews]

I generally allow 5-10 min/device.

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

yeah, I'm doing this locally. See previous post. Can't access system remotely. Even UDI gave up on helping me. ISY does not have a static IP address.

[Teken]

Thanks again Teken.  Have some more work to do after the PLM is replaced and working.  Has Smarthome fixed the 1 - 1.5 yrs MTBF on the PLM yet?

 

Smartlabs has attempted to resolve the issue by replacing several capacitors in the latest models. The forum indicates they are on hardware 2.0 to 2.30 as of this writing.

 

However, several people have indicated a 2413S PLM failure under six months. Whether or not these PLM's were indeed bad no one can say but Smartlabs.

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

Thanks, Stu. Lets see 87 devices - that's 7.25 to 14.5 hours. Guess I'll find something else to do this afternoon,

[Teken]

yeah, I'm doing this locally. See previous post. Can't access system remotely. Even UDI gave up on helping me. ISY does not have a static IP address.

 

OK, that is good because if you were trying to do this remotely off site there are lots of moving parts to ensure success. Also, to have WAN access you need only configure your router to forward the IP address of the ISY Series Controller.

[Teken]

Thanks, Stu. Lets see 87 devices - that's 7.25 to 14.5 hours. Guess I'll find something else to do this afternoon,

 

Ideally you should be tethered to the network and not use a WiFi connection when doing such a task. There are too many outside factors that can impact a connection or the computer from turning off etc.

 

Case in point many computers out of the box running what ever flavor of Windows OS have power saving settings. These impact the screen, sleep, hibernate, HDD, WiFi, and power modes.

 

If this is on a laptop and its not plugged in ensure you have it plugged in and shut off all energy star power settings etc. If its on a stand alone PC do the same thing to ensure the HDD, WiFi, NIC, is not turned off etc.

 

Otherwise you will be doing this marry go round ten more times . . .

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

Apparently, even though it got hung up it restored most of the PLM because it has completed the restore PLM already. I have some devices to add and of course write updates to all the battery powered devices. We'll see how it goes. Thanks, Stu and Teken for the advice.

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

So, I got the PLM connected and working right but I have run into some other hiccups. I replaced a bad 2441th with a new one.  When I try to link it to the ISY I get "Cannot determine device link table address".  I have tried to link automatically and manually by feeding the ISY the address.  I have also done a factory reset on the thermostat to no avail.  Suggestions? 

 

I also have a couple of devices that the ISY cannot see both are switchlinc dimmers and are fairly old (5 yrs or so).  I have done a factory reset on them.  I have not a manual linking on them.  Suggestions?

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

I did a manual linking on one of them. I also moved the PLM to a different power circuit. Still no joy in Mudville.

[Teken]

I did a manual linking on one of them. I also moved the PLM to a different power circuit. Still no joy in Mudville.

 

Hello,

 

The first thing you need to do is confirm you have proper coupling / bridging via the 4 tap beacon test. The process is normally outlined in the full users manual for the various products found at the Smarthome retail site.

 

Essentially you will tap the set button 4 times very quickly - This will cause any Insteon hardware with in the RF range to blink its LED. Keep in mind various generations of Insteon products with out dual colored LED's relied on the user to watch the single colored LED.

 

In a general sense if the receiver is blinking or green in color both sides of the electrical feed is coupled / bridged. Any device that is doing nothing indicates its either too far away to receive the RF bridging signal or that hardware is indeed on the same electrical line as the initiator device.

 

NOTE: All the coupling in the world will not supersede the need to identify and remove / replace noise makers - signal suckers in the home. Meaning almost anything electronic can absorb or inject noise on the power line. Remember the 2413S PLM should never be plugged into the same outlet or circuit that has a computer, cell charger, UPS, TV, A/V, etc

 

Most if not all noise makers / signal suckers can be filtered out using a Insteon Filter Linc.

 

Your task today is to conform you have proper bridging / coupling. Next ensure the PLM is not on the same line as any noise makers / signal suckers. A perfect example even though tedious is to take just one product that will not link and remove it from the wall and wire it to a extension cord you can sacrifice.

 

You will then plug said hardware and modified extension cord into the same electrical outlet as the 2413S PLM. If you find the unit links fine this tells you there is noise in the install site. This can be as simple as the light bulbs in the fixtures, ballasts, transformer, etc.

 

Ideally the most direct approach is to unplug every single device in the home that you humanely can. Once that is done and (assuming) you have solid coupling / bridging devices will link. Keep in mind if you have lots of single band devices coupling and the use of Access Points (AP) / Range Extenders (RE) are paramount to ensure a consistent and reliable Insteon network.

 

As the home begins to use more dual band hardware the reliance of AP / RE's are less. But they do indeed offer stronger and more consistent RF to power line conversion for battery only devices like: MS, Open-Close, Leak, Hidden Door Sensors. 

[Guest Dr. Emilio Lizardo]

Teken,

 

Decided to try a completely different route than the one you suggested for the following reasons:

 

1. I had an Insteon Thermostat at this location before without any communication issues.

2. I have 2 properly installed access points.

3. I have an Insteon Hardwired Powerline Phase Coupler #2406H installed.

4. I have 24 dual band devices installed.

 

Therefore, I had a hard time believing that communications were the issue. I had a spare Insteon Thermostat. I pulled the one that the ISY couldn't find the device link table address and replaced with another one. Pressed the set button and began the linking process and, mirabile dictum, the ISY found the thermostat. So what does this tell me, if anything about the thermostat that I removed. Is it bad and do I need to return it to Smarthome?

 

Thanks for your advice and help

 

Art Lazarow

[Teken]

Hello Art,

 

It could very well be the TSTAT is bad and should be returned under warranty. Keep in mind even with the best coupling / bridging it will never supersede the need to filter out, remove, replace, noise makers / signal suckers.

 

Sadly, many electronic items made today are designed for a very limited shelf life. Just because something has worked for ages fine doesn't mean it will continue to do so over time. Even if we take out poor quality / designed products as being the primary factor people need to understand other things come into play.

 

Bad / dirty power to constant micro surges that happen each and everyday in a home. These micro surges come from fridges, freezers, sump, stove, microwave, etc. In time these inband surges will affect other electronics in the home due to the effect of surges / sags.