apnar Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 This is an interesting thread. I agree with some others that you likely should do some more research into the proper approach to electric and local code, although I get the impression some of this may just be due to english not being your native language. That said, I've personally found the FanLincs to be one of the least reliable Insteon devices. I moved into a new house about 3 years ago and have put in over 150 new Insteon devices in that time. I have 10 FanLincs in service and in the 3 years I've already had to replace 5 of them. They fail in different ways. The most common is for one of the speeds to give out; for example low and med will work fine, but the high setting will either do nothing or cause the fans to hum. I had one fail last week where I could not turn it off, it wouldn't respond to Insteon commands at all but was still powering the fan. I run some of my fans 24x7 (but at different speeds at different times) and those are the ones that tend to have the FanLincs fail more often. I haven't paid attention to the versions yet as I've just been RMAing them. Once they start being out of warranty I plan to take the time to tear them apart to figure out how to fix them myself (like the PLM fixes). For reference in that same 3 years I've also had to RMA 2 KPLs, 2 SwitchLincs Dimmers, and a Micro Dimmer, so even though FanLincs are about 6% of my total device count they represent 50% of my failures.
G W Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Please suh! Could I 'ave some mo....?You can't handle more. You want more, I'll give you what more. Short and to the point. Best regards, Gary Funk
mwester Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I've never really understood the appeal of the fanlinc. Firstly, it's nature makes it a fragile device -- not just one, but FOUR triacs to burn out (one to dim the light, and one for each of the three speeds). Secondly, it cannot stand alone, but requires another Insteon device to control it -- for most applications that's a relatively-expensive KPL. So the true cost to handle a single ceiling fan is actually as much if not MORE than then cost of the fan itself. How does that make any sense? I just don't need to change speeds that often. So a simple Insteon switch does just fine for the fan portion. And an Insteon dimmer for the light. Still expensive ($90 when purchased at the local Menards), but a lot cheaper than a KPL + a fragile fanLinc. (BTW, I'm not just noting this to be argumentative, and I'm certainly not belittling anybody (although perhaps I'm insulting the fanLinc). I'm noting this because I wonder if many folks just assume (incorrectly) that the only possible control for a ceiling fan is a fanLinc.) Pardon the interruption to the party and the fight, carry on folks.
G W Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I've never really understood the appeal of the fanlinc. Firstly, it's nature makes it a fragile device -- not just one, but FOUR triacs to burn out (one to dim the light, and one for each of the three speeds). Secondly, it cannot stand alone, but requires another Insteon device to control it -- for most applications that's a relatively-expensive KPL. So the true cost to handle a single ceiling fan is actually as much if not MORE than then cost of the fan itself. How does that make any sense? I just don't need to change speeds that often. So a simple Insteon switch does just fine for the fan portion. And an Insteon dimmer for the light. Still expensive ($90 when purchased at the local Menards), but a lot cheaper than a KPL + a fragile fanLinc. (BTW, I'm not just noting this to be argumentative, and I'm certainly not belittling anybody (although perhaps I'm insulting the fanLinc). I'm noting this because I wonder if many folks just assume (incorrectly) that the only possible control for a ceiling fan is a fanLinc.) Pardon the interruption to the party and the fight, carry on folks. I've had good luck with FanLincs except for the first version. I had two of the first version fail and worked with SmartLabs to tell them exactly what caused it to fail. Since the second version I have not had any problems, including the latest 1.9 version. I have two cheap fans that I had to modify the capacitor in the fan, otherwise, I just replaced the current remote receiver with a FanLinc. If your fans cost less than a KPL & FanLinc you are using cheap fans. Most of my fans are upwards if $400. The two cheap fans I have I had to modify the capacitor as stated above. I agree with most everything else you state. The FanLinc really only works well with fans that use a similar RF remote. The FanLinc does work well with the ISY without a KPL but I do prefer the 5 scene KPL where it can be used. Like you I generally keep all my fans on medium. There are times I change the setting but not often. Thanks for your input. Short and to the point. Best regards, Gary Funk
oberkc Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I only have five fanlincs, and likely purchsed several of the first version (whatever that is). I was pretty excited to see them become available. I have had zero failures, using stock ceiling fans (did not even think to check capacitors or anything like that.). One fanlinc is in a room not conditioned. Teperatures range from below zero to over 100. We will see how long that continues, but, in retrospect, agree with mwester that I could use a simple relay in some cases, but like the speed control in others.
lilyoyo1 Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 From your own post, you have 1 location with 6 devices going bad in. You blame the device saying it is fragile yet not a single person on any forum has had the issues that you are having. Chances are there is something else going on with that many failures. Especially with the same exact issues. Instead of disregarding advice and blaming the device bring in someone who understands how electricity works. Anyone can change a switch but that does not make them an electrician capable of diagnosing hidden problems. Maybe it's a bad fan. Maybe bad wiring to the fan. I have over 73 insteon devices (my current home) and across multiple homes that I've owned over the years, never have I had as many devices go bad. I did have 1 fanlinc go bad recently and that was the high not working.
TheFallenAngel Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I've never really understood the appeal of the fanlinc. Firstly, it's nature makes it a fragile device -- not just one, but FOUR triacs to burn out (one to dim the light, and one for each of the three speeds). Secondly, it cannot stand alone, but requires another Insteon device to control it -- for most applications that's a relatively-expensive KPL. So the true cost to handle a single ceiling fan is actually as much if not MORE than then cost of the fan itself. How does that make any sense? I just don't need to change speeds that often. So a simple Insteon switch does just fine for the fan portion. And an Insteon dimmer for the light. Still expensive ($90 when purchased at the local Menards), but a lot cheaper than a KPL + a fragile fanLinc. (BTW, I'm not just noting this to be argumentative, and I'm certainly not belittling anybody (although perhaps I'm insulting the fanLinc). I'm noting this because I wonder if many folks just assume (incorrectly) that the only possible control for a ceiling fan is a fanLinc.) Pardon the interruption to the party and the fight, carry on folks. To each their own right.. I LOVE that i am laying in bed and feel the need for some breeze, and just say "Alexa turn on the fan to medium" instead of having to get up and do it I use the 3 FanLincs i have on a daily basis and haven't had any issues (once I made sure the fans are comparable) From your own post, you have 1 location with 6 devices going bad in. You blame the device saying it is fragile yet not a single person on any forum has had the issues that you are having. Chances are there is something else going on with that many failures. Especially with the same exact issues. Instead of disregarding advice and blaming the device bring in someone who understands how electricity works. Anyone can change a switch but that does not make them an electrician capable of diagnosing hidden problems. Maybe it's a bad fan. Maybe bad wiring to the fan. I have over 73 insteon devices (my current home) and across multiple homes that I've owned over the years, never have I had as many devices go bad. I did have 1 fanlinc go bad recently and that was the high not working. Cheers, Alex
lilyoyo1 Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 Trick question! Is any one of your fanlincs rev 1.8? Rev 1.4 is the rev with the most complaints due to premature failure of the "high" speed (which was my rev and 1 failure). 1.9 added a soft start to prevent that. With that said, Even if what was said is true, Insteon would not recycle an old rev. number. If they didnt want to say 2.0 since it's not a major revision, they would say 1.A or something.
stusviews Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 To each their own right.. I LOVE that i am laying in bed and feel the need for some breeze, and just say "Alexa turn on the fan to medium" instead of having to get up and do it I use the 3 FanLincs i have on a daily basis and haven't had any issues (once I made sure the fans are comparable) Cheers, Alex How did you accomplish adding "to" to the command. I can use "fan medium" or "medium fan." Did you include "to" in the spoken?
jtara92101 Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 With all the problems you are having, the only ONE item related to ALL your problems is your AC electric feed I can think of one other thing in common...
jtara92101 Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 they recommended me to write the fan directly to the nearest outlet, not to one dimmer that goes to another dimmer and then to another and then to the FanLinc I HOPE that what you mean when you say "one dimmer that goes to another dimmer and then...." is: "The hot and neutral go from one electrical box (that HAPPENS to contain a dimmer) to another, to another..." If you are wiring from the LOAD of one dimmer to another dimmer, you have done some serious mis-wiring. And, of course, you should not connect the fan motor to the light dimmer output. Did you read the instructions?
TheFallenAngel Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 How did you accomplish adding "to" to the command. I can use "fan medium" or "medium fan." Did you include "to" in the spoken?Yep, you can make your spokens in the portal anything you want.. Cheers, Alex
lilyoyo1 Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I called SmartHome technical support so all you people Gary Funk and Teken that are constantly just trying to belittle people and make fun of people this message is for you. Answer YES or NO 1) DO YOU UNDERSTAND SMARTHOME IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE??? 2) DO YOU UNDERSTAND I LIVE CLOSE TO SMARTHOME AND HAVE PERSONALLY SPOKEN WITH THE TECHNICIANS?? What TECHNICIANS have you personally spoken to or are you referring to phone support?
rafarataneneces Posted September 1, 2016 Author Posted September 1, 2016 What TECHNICIANS have you personally spoken to or are you referring to phone support? case: 499090 name: Phil feel free to call SmartHome to investigate. I wonder why you think it's important to prove me wrong. FanLincs rev > 1.8 are a piece of crap.
rafarataneneces Posted September 1, 2016 Author Posted September 1, 2016 What TECHNICIANS have you personally spoken to or are you referring to phone support? Also the person that told me the new revised revision is out is called Dominick he said they are going back to revision 1.6 and building a new revision with DTA 16 printed somewhere. He also said if you buy at SmartHome they will keep selling the 1.9 revision so he told me do NOT buy from smarthome.com since the warehouse hasn't shipped all the new FanLincs yet. And to be honest SmartHome will keep selling 1.9s until they get out of stock. lol, fully knowing there are problems they will keep shipping them.
stusviews Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 FanLincs rev > 1.8 are a piece of crap. So, only the earliest FanLincs are OK? Anything after (greater than) 1.8 is no good?
rafarataneneces Posted September 1, 2016 Author Posted September 1, 2016 So, only the earliest FanLincs are OK? Anything after (greater than) 1.8 is no good? Yes.
lilyoyo1 Posted September 1, 2016 Posted September 1, 2016 I'm not trying to prove you wrong. Just wondering why you're quoting an internal beta rev be as being bad that never it to production as well as conflicting info. First they were going to 1.4 and now 1.6. To me it sounds funny especially in light of what everyone knows about insteon
rafarataneneces Posted September 1, 2016 Author Posted September 1, 2016 I'm not trying to prove you wrong. Just wondering why you're quoting an internal beta rev be as being bad that never it to production as well as conflicting info. First they were going to 1.4 and now 1.6. To me it sounds funny especially in light of what everyone knows about insteon As soon as I buy the fixed revision I will post a picture. That is what I was told, that rev 1.4 is the stable one so they did a rev based on that one and it FINALLY fixes the problem of blown FanLincs.
Tunaman Posted September 6, 2016 Posted September 6, 2016 Well, I would have to say that based on personal experiences with Rev 1.9, they can apparently fail. I had a lightning strike a couple of months ago that did quite a bit of damage, including a fanlinc Rev 1.1. I replaced it with a new one that was rev 1.9. About a week ago, my wife said the fan turned itself on, but it was making a loud noise, and going very slow. She said she could not turn it off from the keypad. I had her kill it breaker (I was out of town). Today, I investigated, and yes, even though ISY showed it as off, the fan was spinning loud and slow. I pulled it off the ceiling, and wired it on the bench. It does respond to insteon signals, and also the set buttons. Here is the kicker. When it shows as off, it is passing 27 volts, low is 38, medium is 62 volts, and high is 117. Clearly, off should not be passing any voltage. Fanlinc date code is 3815, rev is 1.9
Brian H Posted September 6, 2016 Posted September 6, 2016 If you are using a high impedance meter and there was no load on the fan output. It is possible some of the voltage was just leakage that a load would have loaded down to almost zero. If the fan output was loaded then it definitely failed. Slow and growling when Off. Can you see if there maybe a DC voltage there?
apnar Posted September 6, 2016 Posted September 6, 2016 Well, I would have to say that based on personal experiences with Rev 1.9, they can apparently fail. I had a lightning strike a couple of months ago that did quite a bit of damage, including a fanlinc Rev 1.1. I replaced it with a new one that was rev 1.9. About a week ago, my wife said the fan turned itself on, but it was making a loud noise, and going very slow. She said she could not turn it off from the keypad. I had her kill it breaker (I was out of town). Today, I investigated, and yes, even though ISY showed it as off, the fan was spinning loud and slow. I pulled it off the ceiling, and wired it on the bench. It does respond to insteon signals, and also the set buttons. Here is the kicker. When it shows as off, it is passing 27 volts, low is 38, medium is 62 volts, and high is 117. Clearly, off should not be passing any voltage. Fanlinc date code is 3815, rev is 1.9 Exact same thing happened to mine last week, also rev 1.9.
Charlie_Morlock Posted September 6, 2016 Posted September 6, 2016 It was loaded with an old box fan (3-speed, capacitor controlled)-- good simulation of a ceiling fan albiet a much lower wattage, but enough of a load to draw it down
Brian H Posted September 6, 2016 Posted September 6, 2016 Then I would agree. Failure of the Fanlinc.
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