FanLinc damaged (8 damaged in total)

[G W]

@lilyoyo1

 

I'm truly happy I took your advice. I contacted support last Tuesday and the finally got back to me today.

 

This is the response I Received:

 

"Although the item is really old and we only send out new versions i had to get an OK from our Supervisor. As a 1 x only we will do the exchange for you."

 

Tomorrow the old one goes back. My question is will I get a v1.45 or a v2.1 or something in between.

 

I'm Gary Funk. Pay no attention to this message.

I received an email from Brian at SmartHome support that he has requested that a 2475FECO be sent to replace the v1.3.

 

Gary Funk (Joke removed at the request of one user)

[G W]

The v2.1 Fanlinc that I received last week, went out today.

 

What the H is wrong with SmartLabs?

 

Gary Funk

Merry Christmas

[stusviews]

What's the fan load rating?

[oberkc]

The v2.1 Fanlinc that I received last week, went out today.

 

What the H is wrong with SmartLabs?

 

Gary Funk

Merry Christmas

 

Wow.  I cannot believe that your failure rate is coincidental and I have trouble believing that this is a just quality issue.  This is more than just bad luck, no?  I cannot help but wonder if it is environmental or electrical somehow.

[G W]

Wow. I cannot believe that your failure rate is coincidental and I have trouble believing that this is a just quality issue. This is more than just bad luck, no? I cannot help but wonder if it is environmental or electrical somehow.

I can. The v1.2 and v1.3 units that I've had for years are still working great. As far as environment and electrical is concerned, all other fanlincs are fine. The power is relatively clean. No spikes, no noise, no fluctions.

 

I've only had two failures so I'm not sure I'm the one with bad luck. SmartLabs has just produced a big batch of bad units.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I wrote this message.

[stusviews]

Only two? The title say 8 and that's before your recent failures. What's the fan ratings?

[G W]

So I've pulled the bad v2.1 and installed the v1.3 that's been in that fan for about the last four years. The fan is back to running normal.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I wrote this message.

Only two? The title say 8 and that's before your recent failures. What's the fan ratings?

I'm not the OP Stu.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I wrote this message.

[G W]

Only two? The title say 8 and that's before your recent failures. What's the fan ratings?

I have three of these fans. All three have been working fine for years and have v1.2 or v1.3 FanLinc units.

 

Gary Funk

Merry Christmas

[stusviews]

I'm not the OP Stu.

 

You are correct--again. But the label on your fan indicates a 3 amp maximum draw. The FanLinc is rated at 1 ampere.

[G W]

You are correct--again. But the label on your fan indicates a 3 amp maximum draw. The FanLinc is rated at 1 ampere.

The normal draw, even on high is 0.56 amps.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I wrote this message.

[stusviews]

That may be whilst running. Motor startup is typically higher.

[G W]

That may be whilst running. Motor startup is typically higher.

Exactly. So it's not a problem

 

I'm Gary Funk and I wrote this message.

[larryllix]

Electrical type components like inductors and contacts take short overloads quite well, based on long term thermal curves, but solid state components may not  take it, even for a short time.

 

The 3.0 start up current may be doing your fanlink damage on rare occasions.

 

Perhaps the fanlinks, after v1.4, have had their components reduced in capabilities (think cheapened)  and just won't handle your particular start-up current from the fans.

 

OTOH: Usually capacitor run type motors don't have too much surge current, more than run, when starting.

Also the 3 ampere rating is on the fan nameplate, not the motor nameplate, so 3A probably includes the light bulbs also,  which would not be included in the fan motor control.

[Brian H]

I would not be surprised. That some of the components where changed.

Maybe a parts substitution because of availability or trying to lower component costs.

[Teken]

As noted in several forum threads many ceiling fans have caused erratic to complete failure of the Insteon Fan Linc. All of the forum threads on this subject matter were resolved (long term) by installing a RC Snubber across the load / neutral. The ideal value is 0.1 uF @120 ohms for the least amount of Insteon signal absorption.

 

Most of the RC Snubbers you will find will have values ranging from 45 - 100 ohms which is still OK.

 

Regardless, I don't know what Gary used to confirm the start up vs running amperes in the fan. But as Stu correctly noted start up (inrush) current is one of the primary factors which causes a short service life in most hardware. It doesn't excuse Smartlabs from offering a solid product using the highest quality parts which in the big picture only adds something in the order of $0.05 to $0.28 to the final product cost(s).

 

Lastly, I would expect a little more clarity on that 3 amp rating from the fan maker. Normally the sticker would *clearly* state the fan consumed XX amps, and if the fan had lights it would also state the maximum loads that could be inserted. Normally it ranges from 40-60 watts and a few fringe ones say 100 watt bulbs are OK but normally have less than two bulbs vs 3-4.  

[larryllix]

The fixture clearly states 3 Amperes max. And the sockets will have a bulb type A or B rating on the sockets.

 

[Jimbo.Automates]

 

 

As noted in several forum threads many ceiling fans have caused erratic to complete failure of the Insteon Fan Linc. All of the forum threads on this subject matter were resolved (long term) by installing a RC Snubber across the load / neutral. The ideal value is 0.1 uF @120 ohms for the least amount of Insteon signal absorption.

 

Most of the RC Snubbers you will find will have values ranging from 45 - 100 ohms which is still OK.

 

 

Can you give some links to ones you or others would recommend? Or link to the forum discussion, I could not find one. Thanks!

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[Teken]

Can you give some links to ones you or others would recommend? Or link to the forum discussion, I could not find one. Thanks!

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Hello Jimbo,

 

Sure, this one has been used by quite a few people in the forums: http://www.alliedelec.com/red-lion-controls-snub0000/70030263/

 

This specific raw part was recommended by our esteem ELA: http://www.newark.com/roxburgh/xe1201/surge-suppressor/dp/01M9475

 

If you simply want a clip and go the red lion is the obvious choice. But if you have a little bit of time and soldering skills the one offered by ELA at $2.28 a piece is the much better value and also offers the best Insteon spec.

[larryllix]

Too bad one with a MOV inside also wasn't available.

 

sent from a really small mobile keyboard, so may be a short response.

[Teken]

@Larry,

 

I wasn't sure what you meant by the 3 amp max? Because the fans I have installed in the past have always noted what the consumption was for the fan alone. The listing in Gary's post reads to me at least is the maximum resistive fixture load of the bulb(s).

 

So once again clarity needs to be found on what the fan actually consumes opposed to what the light fixture does. It would be funny if the 3 amp rating encompasses both the bulbs and the fan motor. Because the guy making the label was too cheap or tired to call out both loads separately. 

[stusviews]

I've never seen a fan motor label that included the lighting load nor any motor label the included any load other than the motor.

[Teken]

I've never seen a fan motor label that included the lighting load nor any motor label the included any load other than the motor.

 

I haven't either but its safe to say stranger things have been seen. If we assume for a moment the label actually reflects the amperage of the fan it is well outside of the Fan Linc spec. Even using a RC Snubber won't address the out of band current consumption.

[larryllix]

@Larry,

 

I wasn't sure what you meant by the 3 amp max? Because the fans I have installed in the past have always noted what the consumption was for the fan alone. The listing in Gary's post reads to me at least is the maximum resistive fixture load of the bulb(s).

 

So once again clarity needs to be found on what the fan actually consumes opposed to what the light fixture does. It would be funny if the 3 amp rating encompasses both the bulbs and the fan motor. Because the guy making the label was too cheap or tired to call out both loads separately.

 

Just look at the picture posted with a label on the fixture.

 

The fixture is not the tiny motor inside, if you have ever taken one apart. The motor may have it's own nameplate, if there is one, at all.

 

The 3 ampere Max. is for the fixture including the chandelier style bulbs for a Model AC552AL Hampton ceiling Fan, found at Home depot, as the label states. Motors don't have paper nameplates.

[G W]

I checked the startup power on all three fans and regardless of speed or fan it never exceded 1000ma.

 

The defective FanLinc still works on Medium and High speed.

 

I use a Fluke 287.

 

I'm Gary Funk and I wrote this message.

[larryllix]

<snipped>I checked the startup power on all three fans and regardless of speed or fan it never exceded 1000ma.

<snipped>

I'm Gary Funk and I wrote this message.

Capacitor run motors don't have much surge when starting being they are so low torque. You can hold the blades from spinning with a baby finger.

 

Did you check the bulb sockets for a Bulb Type A or B or a Max bulb power rating?

 

 

There are more types of surges though. Voltage surges are seen when you switch any inductance off.

 

A simple 120vac MOV or perhaps a snubber, prosted ny Teken may do it. I would use a MOV that actually absorbs the spikes rather than a capacitor unit that can constanatly reflect the energy back into the inductive motor in a ringing type fashion.